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#1 navanskyine

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Posted 06 December 2011 - 05:04 PM

hey guys i found a l28 turbo engine compelte whats the going price on one of these ?
Posted Image

It comes with:
Wiring loom, computer, air flow meter & high pressure fuel pump.
T2 turbo for heaps low down power

#2 .

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Posted 06 December 2011 - 05:41 PM

The fact that it is turbo doesn't really increase the price much. The engine is probably worth $500, plus the price of the turbo, manifolds, and ECU. Unless they can proove it is all in A1 condition I'd say $1000-$1500

#3 navanskyine

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Posted 06 December 2011 - 05:50 PM

he just hasnt set the price yet were just talking about it so yeh thanks man

#4 Ben

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Posted 06 December 2011 - 08:50 PM

Are you sure it's an L28ET & not an L20AET?

The former is pretty rare in Aus, the latter is still rare, but not as much so.

#5 Scando

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Posted 06 December 2011 - 09:05 PM

It's going back a few years but I got quoted $2,500 from a place that imports them from the US.  I thought it seemed a bit steep at the time.  I reckon Galderdi is on the money.  Anything over $1,500 and you're better off starting with an n/a L28 and buying manifolds, etc.  If you want decent performance then you'll end up not using a lot of the standard parts anyway, turbo, computer, etc.  The Turbo Dizzy is worth getting hold as it gives you the trigger signals you need to hook up an aftermarket computer.  Also has a P90 head, high volume oil pump, F54 block, and probably a few other bits that will be handy if you want to build an engine to make decent power.

I'd actually prefer the higher comp n/a engine to start with, they will happily take 10psi on 98 fuel and be much more responsive.

If it's got a T2 turbo then Ben might be on the money about it being an L20A.  Pretty sure the L28 turbos came with T3's.

#6 navanskyine

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Posted 06 December 2011 - 09:46 PM

ok i just got a email from him its a j spec engine what ever that means p90 head f54 block

now i allready have that setup in my car but n/a 

his asking 4k for it ?  worth it 
its not much power plus 4k i could get a rb25 full setup

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Posted 06 December 2011 - 09:49 PM

It could be worth it if he can prove a recent quality rebuild. Other than that tell him he's dreaming.

#8 navanskyine

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Posted 06 December 2011 - 09:54 PM

yeh u can pick up a rb25 and gear boxx for 3k well i can  like i offered him 2k
it hasnt been going for like 2 years so hmmm

its a z car shop to

#9 Bozo

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Posted 06 December 2011 - 10:50 PM

I recall Peter MC saying a turbo L28 that he'd make would cost me around $11,000 inc labour  ???

#10 dat2kman

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Posted 06 December 2011 - 11:34 PM

Hmmm i'm curious, which is the Z car shop you are talking about. Some of us know who is reputable, and will sell things reasonably ok, but as is usual, it is buyer beware. For price indicated, hook up a starter motor and do comp checks, and some sort of document saying if on install you find it is rootard, you have recourse
Engine details suggest a L28 rather than L20A

Always thought one of the L28 turbo engines in a s130 2 seatwr, stripped and ligjtened, would make an interesting tarmac rally car, in unmodified class, or bare mods classes?
It would not be accepted in a s30 body, as none were turbo from factory.

#11 Scando

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Posted 07 December 2011 - 05:34 AM

Yep, too much I'd say.  Remember, whichever engine you choose, buying the engine is only a small part of the conversion cost.

I've often had the same idea about an S130 2 seater turbo.  Hardest part would be the computer.  You would most likely have to mod the standard computer like you've done on the 280Z.

#12 luvemfast

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Posted 07 December 2011 - 06:48 AM

hmmmmmm......... Turbo 280ZX in standard class................

#13 PZG302

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Posted 07 December 2011 - 08:14 AM

Yep, too much I'd say.  Remember, whichever engine you choose, buying the engine is only a small part of the conversion cost.

I've often had the same idea about an S130 2 seater turbo.  Hardest part would be the computer.  You would most likely have to mod the standard computer like you've done on the 280Z.


Or even cheaper and quicker, buy an S13 or 14/15 with more than enough change out of $10k to put decent suspension and some go fast bits in it if it hasn't already got it done.

And easier, and more fun and you can run in a bigger range of classes if you step up to full racing, eg S13 IPRA, S14 IPRA or prod Sports, and be competitive for not a lot.

#14 luvemfast

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Posted 07 December 2011 - 08:43 AM

Or even cheaper and quicker, buy an S13 or 14/15 with more than enough change out of $10k to put decent suspension and some go fast bits in it if it hasn't already got it done.

And easier, and more fun and you can run in a bigger range of classes if you step up to full racing, eg S13 IPRA, S14 IPRA or prod Sports, and be competitive for not a lot.

But not nearly as much style though  8)

#15 dat2kman

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Posted 07 December 2011 - 08:44 AM

Turbo 280ZX has a double PCB ECU, the non turbo just has a single circuit board.
Turbos also had bigger injectors.
As a Tarmac rally car, you are given freedoms in brakes, for safety, not like in Historic Prod Sports circuit racing, and you can run an aftermarket ECU, not like in Hysteric prod sports.

If you really wanted to stick to stock Turbo twin board ECU, you would need to run bigger injectors, run an interuptor piggy back ecu from dizzy to stock ecu, also run an interruptor from the air temp sensor, the water temp sensor, and the low speed idle part of the circuitry from the AFM, if you were to run a more aggressive camshaft. the turbo housings A/R ratios could be changed, and exhaust is free from the first join after the cylinder head, ie dump pipe back
This is all for Tarmac rally use, ie Targa Tas, Highh Country, Targa WA and Classic Adelaide.

You cannot use a 280ZX in Historic prod Sports, as the cutoff year is the end of 1976.
This is why the USA Spec 280Z gets into Historics ( same as a 260Z shell,) it has to run the stock engine as in a Aussie 280ZX, a heavy r200, and stock interior, as well as stock brakes, mine weighs in at 1125 kgs, and she rocks and rolls like a pig, compared to my Datsun Sports 2000, at 810 kgs!

#16 navanskyine

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Posted 07 December 2011 - 10:58 AM

ok well would i get away with bolting one to my current engine and keeping it stock wont hurt the engine ?

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Posted 07 December 2011 - 11:29 AM

I suggest buying a compression tester and using it on your current engine, then post the figures here and someone will be able to indicate whether your engine compression is suitable for more boost. If it is a truely stock L28 straight from a 280zx then it possibly has dished pistons and low compresssion. But most previous owners swap out the dished pistons and replace them with flat tops so there are no garuntees.

Obviously we can't predict the reliability of the rest of the engine as that depends on numerous components and previous mods.

Another thing to consider is the need for another ECU and associated sensors etc as the standard ECU will not cope. Do you already have an after market ECU?

#18 dat2kman

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Posted 07 December 2011 - 11:34 AM

yes, been done plenty times, but lowish boost pressure only, say tops 12 to 14 psi. If yours is a p90 head, these have a bigger comb chamber, that combined with dished pistons, gives a low compression ratio, lower the ratio the more boost it will take
What is the block/head combo you have?, and? are pistons flat top or dished?

you could use a stock injection manifold, with bigger injectors, a aftermarket ecu, ( BTW I have a brand new Autronic SM4 for sale!!!) hardest part is a turbo exhaust manifold, the stock cast iron ones are getting old, and can crack, better off geting one made up out of decentr thick wall steam pipe, 12 mm thick flanges, with brace supports to turbo, use longer studs at head, a block to underside of turbo manifold support would be an idea, bit of piping, a intercooler from say a 2J supra, ( surprise surprise, i have a couple here for sale too ), or a big kick arse front mount ( guess what, one of them here as well), and say a nice little GT28 roller turbo, ( and you guessed,it, one of these is here for sale as well !!! )

Umm, you do keep changing your mind about things, remember when you were here, I sugested a SR20DET package?? What about that, easy, simple cheap, balances the car, the purists will shudder.

Dont forget, I'm interested in your old gearbox!!

#19 Scando

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Posted 07 December 2011 - 11:42 AM

Turbo 280ZX has a double PCB ECU, the non turbo just has a single circuit board.
Turbos also had bigger injectors.
As a Tarmac rally car, you are given freedoms in brakes, for safety, not like in Historic Prod Sports circuit racing, and you can run an aftermarket ECU, not like in Hysteric prod sports.

If you really wanted to stick to stock Turbo twin board ECU, you would need to run bigger injectors, run an interuptor piggy back ecu from dizzy to stock ecu, also run an interruptor from the air temp sensor, the water temp sensor, and the low speed idle part of the circuitry from the AFM, if you were to run a more aggressive camshaft. the turbo housings A/R ratios could be changed, and exhaust is free from the first join after the cylinder head, ie dump pipe back
This is all for Tarmac rally use, ie Targa Tas, Highh Country, Targa WA and Classic Adelaide.

You cannot use a 280ZX in Historic prod Sports, as the cutoff year is the end of 1976.
This is why the USA Spec 280Z gets into Historics ( same as a 260Z shell,) it has to run the stock engine as in a Aussie 280ZX, a heavy r200, and stock interior, as well as stock brakes, mine weighs in at 1125 kgs, and she rocks and rolls like a pig, compared to my Datsun Sports 2000, at 810 kgs!


When I looked at it, I remeber it saying the ECU must be "from the period".  So that pretty much limits you to the stock ECU or maybe there were some very early Haltech's, etc about then?

There were also a lot more freedoms with fibreglass panels, intercooler, turbo, injectors, etc if the car was built in 1981 or before.  I think the first 280ZX Turbo was built in 1982?  I know they've changed the classes for the new historic tarmac rally championship class so it's probably all changed since I looked at it.


Anyway, back to the subject sorry navanskyline.  As the others have commented, it sounds like your engine has had a bit of work done so I'm guessing it has had the head shaved and/or flat top pistons.  If this is the case then your compression ratio will be too high.

Better to sell your engine and get an n/a engine from a 280ZX.  It will have a comp ratio of 8.2:1 and happily take around 10psi on 98 fuel.  With decent manifolds, exhaust, computer, throttle body, intercooler, turbo, injectors, fuel pumps, etc, etc, you should be able to make close to 200rwkw on standard internals with good reliability.

Unless you can do pretty much all of the work yourself then it will cost you a small fortune.

#20 navanskyine

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Posted 07 December 2011 - 11:46 AM

its a p90 head with f54 block so yeh i dont know about pistons


um i think ill just pick up this full rb30 setup for now :) hehe




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