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Garage San Maru


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#41 Gareth. J.

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Posted 06 December 2012 - 09:51 PM

Hehehe, If he keeps it flat for long enough he might be able to watch the fuel gauge dropping  :D

#42 d3c0y

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Posted 06 December 2012 - 10:20 PM

That's why i havent started it yet, still saving up for the fuel. Lol  :P

Christmas holidays it will be running and out and about.

#43 Fairlady Z

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Posted 07 December 2012 - 02:03 PM

very nice.

can't wait for a video. And when its run in please give it some beans want to hear it on full song. (in controlled environment of course  :P )



#44 Lurch ™

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Posted 07 December 2012 - 04:12 PM

That 'L28' is... well... rather puckering to drive, to say the least...

#45 d3c0y

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Posted 11 December 2012 - 09:48 AM

It's funny its a bit anti-climatic so far as i haven't even seen it running in person at this point.


I'm sure i can manage a video for ya'll  ;)

#46 d3c0y

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Posted 02 January 2013 - 02:50 AM

OK so it's nearly the end of the holidays and the car still isn't running yet. Despite being away for most of the holidays I have managed to make some progress though.

First off I noticed that i still had the throwout bearing and clutch fork sitting on my workbench, which means that I have to crane the engine forward again which is a pain in the A$$!!

Next I have been doing a bit of reading on some modifications to the electrical systems. I bought a VL starter motor as an L-series starter cant turn the L34 beast over. This has been getting stripped and cleaned up ready for installation (after i fix the above stuff up -_- ). In aide of cleaning up the engine bay (and not having to refit it) im going to remove the external voltage regulator. The car already has a ZX 60A alternator and i plan on cutting the plug off for the voltage reg and hide the wires in the loom.

On the subject of the engine bay tidy up the following things have now been removed:
  • ADR Plate (any ideas on where to mount this?)
  • Fuel filter and holder
  • Coil
  • Resistor
  • Voltage Reg
I have also changed the fuel hose setup on the Webers so the feed line comes from behind the motor. My setup doesn't use a return line anymore so, i would like to pull that line out completely and shorten the main feed hard line so it stops at the end of the transmission tunnel. I guess all i would need to do this is to re-flair the fuel hard line which shoudn't be too hard.
If i do this, it would remove the fuel lines that run along the top of the driver's side chassis rail, just leaving the main wiring loom to hide.

I also read about the green wire that runs with the fuel sender wire that can be used to power the fuel pump. I'll be using this off a relay to power the Carter 4070 I have. Pump, filter and regulator will all be mounted under the back of the car. I want to do the headlight relay mod and i need to install another relay for my new thermo fans too so i will have to find a space to mount them all.

I fitted up all my new eBay spec cooling gear which consists of an eBay alloy radiator which is as thick as an intercooler and two 10" S-blade thermo fans. The top tank of the radiator is warped and the mounting holes on the rad weren't wide enough to match up to the factory ones. I had to elongate the holes with a drill to get it to fit. I am also concerned as to weather the bonnet will shut over it as it sits very high. I polished the bonnet stay and gave it a coat of laquer to protect it, so it matches the shiny new radiator.
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I've decided that anything metal that bolts to the engine bay will get polished and lacquered, so there will be no new cadmium plated bits. I feel the old parts add to the look of the car with there dings and 40 years of ware and help tell the car's story in a way. In the pic below you can see the new MSA reproduction fresh air ducts installed too, which are well made.

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And finally i framed a poster i picked up at RockyAuto on my Japan trip. Awesome Japanese cheesy design at it's best.

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More updates to come shortly, at least i have a plan now!


#47 d3c0y

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Posted 18 March 2013 - 07:56 PM

So i got to hear a PMC engine in real life last weekend...

http://i101.photobuc...091731A692A.mp4


The iphone has no hope of capturing what this thing sounds like!

#48 d3c0y

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Posted 30 April 2013 - 06:09 PM

I've been updating my project more on Facebook because it's easier.


Check it out, like my page etc!


http://www.facebook....location=stream

#49 d3c0y

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Posted 23 June 2013 - 07:23 PM

new URL for the facebook page and the 20B project is up!


http://www.facebook....Garage.San.Maru

#50 Gareth. J.

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Posted 23 June 2013 - 07:33 PM

So no 20B build thread here?  :'(

#51 d3c0y

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Posted 23 June 2013 - 07:53 PM

You don't even need Facebook to look at it Gareth!


It just takes twice as long to upload the photos and post them on here. You also get to see how many people are looking at the page!



#52 Agno

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Posted 23 June 2013 - 09:27 PM

Because it's all about the likes...

#53 d3c0y

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Posted 23 June 2013 - 09:51 PM

Out of interest what is it about?

#54 Agno

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Posted 23 June 2013 - 10:33 PM

Out of interest what is it about?


The likes.

Facebook is easy for uploading pictures but it's not very good for describing previously mentioned images. On top of that if you aren't a registered facebook user viewing access is limited, in particular when viewing comments plus the various photo ownership and privacy problems about sharing on Facebook. If it was about sharing in the most efficient manner that would probably be through a dedicated blog.

This forum also tells you how many people are viewing as well as total views.  

#55 44014

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Posted 23 June 2013 - 10:45 PM

There will be a 20B build thread!
Jake just has to fix my laptop as doing it all on a ipad is a pain in the @ss.

#56 dat240z

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Posted 24 June 2013 - 04:48 AM

Because it's all about the likes...


Haha, and how many online "mates" youve got!!!  :o :o :o

#57 d3c0y

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Posted 26 November 2014 - 01:51 PM

OK i've decided to update this again, it's mirrored on PF and FB but i guess...


Posted Image


I'll be posting back in time a bit just so you know.

#58 d3c0y

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Posted 26 November 2014 - 01:52 PM


Here is a sneak peak for the weekend... and here are some youtube links to it running on the engine dyno:






Here are some pics of the work I did on the zed last month. I was in New Zealand twice and went down to the Melbourne F1 GP so i only had one weekend at home really. It's pretty close to being back on the road now although i've fouled the plugs starting the engine and idling it showing off to friends haha. Check out the pics, each one has detailed captions on the work done.


Return line has been blocked off in the engine bay and is no longer used. I kept the lines there just to keep the crap out of them, but now that im looking at this photo it makes more sense to just block it off straight out of the tank. Fuel lines in the engine bay will be cut off one day and there will just be a hard line to the back of the motor.
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New alternator belt to suit the massive under-drive of the ATi balancer
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Picked up a fibreglass bonnet for $150. Fits really nicely but has been sanded with an electric sander which has gone through the gel coat. This one is going to take a lot of sanding.
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New fuel system installed. Carter 4070 rotary pump pushing 120lph, Holey fuel regulator and inline filter.
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RB30 starter motor, bolted straight up no modifications. Even the wires plugged straight on. The L Series starter didnt have enough oomph to turn the stroker over at 11:1 comp.
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#59 d3c0y

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Posted 26 November 2014 - 01:53 PM


Here are all the detail pics taken during the construction of my 3.4L L28 running a modified RB30 crankshaft. Block is an N42 out to 89.5mm with a heavily modified and ported P90 head. Any questions feel free to ask! All credit goes to Peter Mcdonnell and Les Collins for building it. 360Hp and just under 300ft/lbs on pump 98 fuel.


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#60 d3c0y

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Posted 26 November 2014 - 01:53 PM


(August 2013)Posted Image


OK it's been a while, but work on the zed hasn't stopped. After the gearbox was making bad noises every time i drove the car i thought it might be time to check the gearbox oil, since I hadn't the whole time I have owned the car. Drained out the black old sludge no problems, but I soon discovered that the filler plug was seized in tight! As you can see by the pics I managed to break a 17mm spanner trying to leaver the plug out. This was after a liberal application of Loctite freeze spray, a session with a butane torch! Eventually I bought a little hand held pump and filled the gearbox up through the breather hole... fun and games. Much to my disgust, on my next drive the gearbox sounded worse, with counter shaft bearing noise and the general whirring associated with a dying gearbox. I made sure to avoid any undue acceleration!


As I was attending Ellaspede (http://www.ellaspede.com/ owned by a fellow zed owner - G-nose & RB30DET) servicing launch which was in Brisbane so I needed to fill the fuel tank up too. And returning to the car after paying at the register i noticed fuel running down the back of the fuel tank, which i put down to a broken tank breather hose. When i was on my way back home at the end of the night i noticed the tank was still leaking and as i pulled onto the highway the engine died. Luckily I was still on the on ramp and there was plenty of room to pull over. Upon inspection (lying in pool of fuel in the rain on the side of the road), the fuel tank outlet had completely out of the tank and fuel was pouring straight out of the tank onto the road! Luckily the metal elbow clipped back in the tank and it stayed there for the duration of the trip home. So with the knowledge the tank had to come out the car went up on stands in the garage again.


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However, this was going to happen anyway as I had already ordered a new gearbox as I always knew the stocker wasn't going to cope with the torque. I had hoped it would have lasted more than four drives in the car! The new box has been built in F5W71B casings (the original zed gearbox) but has a Kameari F5W71C (RB20DET, SR20DET gearbox) 1st, 2nd, 3rd and counter shaft with a stock 0.75 (RB20DET) overdrive gear. This box sorts out all the gaps in the stock gearbox and optimizes the shift points for the 76 high-lift cam. This is another Peter McDonnell (@peter.mcdonnell.71) / Les Collins Racing special and has custom billet short shifter with a 40% reduction in throw and still let me screw on my stock gear knob which is based on an 71C style shifter. The gearbox has now been built and is ready to be picked up by the courier. Check out the image from gear calc to see a full plotting of the ratios. The car now has a top speed of 275kph (165mph) which it should be able to pull.


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This is going to mate to my Subaru WRX STi LSD, which after removing the rear cover turned out to be a 4.4 ratio! In the pictures you can see my new Beta Motorsports billet side axles which will bolt up to the stock uni axles. I also organized a group buy for some RT style diff mounts (diagram pictured) from Techno Versions in the US (http://www.technover...fMountHome.html) I chose to go with the energy suspension mount so the diff now mounts from the top and eliminates the stock lower rubber mount and the crappy strap over the top. Now the bush will be under compression instead of tension when under power. Doug bought up the good point that it will now be under load on decel, but i guess we will see how it lasts. A lot of people on hybridz.org are running this setup with V8s so i'm hoping it will last.


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My new Restored flares finally turned up from Otomoto too and i'm in the process of ordering mounting hardware so I will be able to mount the flares and finally put my genuine Watanabes on the car which will be awesome. I only have 8.5" wide fronts, which are too small in my book, but after some research and measuring on the weekend i found i will be able to fit 9.5" wide wheels on the front too, which is an option.


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I also managed to win another Porsche caliper on the weekend for the princely sum of $50 which turned into $133 with shipping haha. Regardless it's still a good price for a 911 Carrera / Boxster S caliper! Flipping through one of the G-Works mags i picked up in Japan on my last trip I discovered that RS START actually make a Brembo brake kit so I have emailed them in my best google-translated Japanese to see if they will just sell me the mounts which will make life a heap easier. Now i just have to get another one so i have a matching pair.


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OK so back to the first photo again, Doug and I stripped the whole drive line out of the car yesterday, from the engine back. Gearbox to whole rear suspension! All the unis in the tail shaft and axles will be replaced and re-balanced, rear HKS coilovers fitted, bushes replaced and now that it's all out of the car sitting there i definitely want to install the adjustable lower control arms. I couldn't stand to re-bush the stock ones just to take them out again! The tank is going to be repainted and a motor-sport dash fitting put on the outlet and all the fuel system in the back (reg and pump) also converted to dash fittings. The gearbox mount will also be getting replaced as it's all swolen and stuff from being soaked in oil. For the first time since owning the car, it won't leak oil! I would love to do a rear disc conversion while it's all apart, but we will have to see how the budget is going when it's all going back together.


While we are on the subject of fuel system, we were working on the 20B project on the Saturday, I found the stock fuel pump bracket and pump setup (it's a 1975 260Z). I promptly stole this for my car (thanks Doug) so i can mount everything properly and ditch the zip ties. A few people have been up me about using the stock Z wiring with no relay to power the Carter 4070 fuel pump. Again, with Google's ever present help I found this pump draws about 1.5A MAX, which really is stuff all. I would be very surprised if a) the wires can't handle that and b) that there are factory provisions for an electric fuel pump and it's not going through some sort of factory relay already, so the wiring is going to stay as is for now. I will definitely check that figure with a multi-meter when it's all back together though.


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