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Roberto

Roberto's PMC enhanced 260Z

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I was even thinking of driving over for the dyno run, but I am not sure Les (and Pete) would appreciate us boof heads hanging around while they are trying to work.  ::)

 

 

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Correct. There are OH&S rules to be considered and thus insurance issues. Their engine dyno is at a different location to their workshop (chassis dyno) in Charlton Ave Road Cheltenham.

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no it not a good idear to have to many people around when you are working .and when you are paying by the hour it gets expensive to talk  ::) don't fear i will make a video

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no it not a good idear to have to many people around when you are working .and when you are paying by the hour it gets expensive to talk  ::) don't fear i will make a video

 

hi Peter mc26

have you considered using Joe Gibbs breakin oil when you bring your creations to life?

 

Have heard good things ( due to it's high zinc content)regarding it's compatibilty with new cams etc

also can leave in for 3 or 4 events before reverting to normal oil (eg penrite hpr30 or similiar)

 

 

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hi

we do use a brake in oil for the dyno it is also from the US but it only stays in for a short time once the rings are broken in the oil is dropped, as it is full of contamination you don't wont it in the motor , this only takes 20 to 30 min ,then we put fresh oil in and start some heaver load runs for some time. before we run it at full rpm we will let it cool down and check the tappets and head tension  and have a good look around to make shore the cam and rockers are OK then we run it up with a good eye on the fuel afr this process may take 5 to 6 hours and then new oil before  it goes out . there are many ways to do this process ,this has worked for me for Many years on hundreds of motors from datsun to gt3s , most oil brands have a brake in oil i recommend that people should use them with there new engines for a short time

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I had a bit to do with Larry Perkins through our Castrol sponsorship years and Larry swore by (as did Ian Tate) using a monograde diesel engine oil as a break in product, high detergency and low additive doses are a good combination for break in.....and its cheap compared to so called branded break in oils which really aren't anything special.

 

Wouldn't recommend leaving any oil in there for more than the minimum required break in period though.

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Hi

thanks peter mc26

makes sense & I will make sure the breakin oil gets changed quickly in my next motor!

 

Regards

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I had a bit to do with Larry Perkins through our Castrol sponsorship years and Larry swore by (as did Ian Tate) using a monograde diesel engine oil as a break in product, high detergency and low additive doses are a good combination for break in.....and its cheap compared to so called branded break in oils which really aren't anything special.

 

Wouldn't recommend leaving any oil in there for more than the minimum required break in period though.

 

 

 

yer they are right we used shell diesel oil for years as a break in oil never had a problem good stuff

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Hi

thanks peter mc26

makes sense & I will make sure the breakin oil gets changed quickly in my next motor!

 

Regards

 

Richard,

If jim is doing the motor he'll use teh break in oil for the run in only and then get the good stuff in quick smart. My motor had the break in oil for the tune and then ran the Cootha Classic with it as the tune was done on friday night before. As soona s that was done the Joe Gibbs X7 oil went in and I change oil and filter every second event.

 

It might be a bit exxy at around $200 per case, but that does me for 2 1/2 oil changes and the motor is going great guns, even though the block is on its last legs.

 

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Thanks Matt

handy info

new motor still very much a "work in progress"

be interested to see how the numbers go on Roberto's new engine

 

 

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Hey Peter, are they tuned length? and are you going to extend the length of the secondaries? Very nice..

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they are tuned length, they are the same as the ones i used on the motor that made 193kw and the sec pipe are fine at this length, SW has made a batch of 10 sets so if you wont some get in quick they were $ 1500 but he has cut the price to $990 they are top extractors for strong L24s L28s

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Agreed Roberto .. I will be extremely interested to see how they go, as these are the exact same pipes as i'm picking up next week. The welds look excellent, and speaking to Peter, the quality is extremely good too. These are the first run of 1 5/8" primaries, so it'll be interesting to see how they go on hot L motors, versus the last run at 1 7/8".

 

Be sure to keep us posted, and stick a vid of the car running with them on. What muffler / rear pipe are you planning on using? I will use a stainless 2.5" mandrel bent pipe with mid mounted resonator and rear single sports muffler.

 

Adam.

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They look great Peter, so I take the price is for both sets of pipes in the pic, also is ceramic coating included in the price or are they just supplied in mild steel?

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What muffler / rear pipe are you planning on using? I will use a stainless 2.5" mandrel bent pipe with mid mounted resonator and rear single sports muffler.

 

Adam.

 

Hey Adam.  I plan on using the same exhaust set-up as you.  Mid mounted resonator to control boom and single "straight through" sports muffler.  I haven't decided on brand yet, but the Magnaflow XL turbo muffler on this clip sounds fantastic:

 

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I think I'd lose my licence if I had an engine/exhaust combo that sounded like that every time I nailed it.

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damn this looks the goods....

hey Peter, is that the coil mounted on the front of the block ? would heat be an issue ?

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