Jump to content


Photo

Screwed my clutch?


  • Please log in to reply
39 replies to this topic

#21 zedevan

zedevan

    The 1000+ club

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,346 posts
  • Location:Melbourne

Posted 12 February 2007 - 10:04 PM

my dad was able to get a clutch for me today, and comparing the old clutch to the new about half the pressure plate spring things had gone, well weren't springing back out to their orginal position

whats the point of having the fly wheel machined? to make sure its balanced? my dad says its about as worth while as having disc rotors machined...but then...

#22 tattoo_ink

tattoo_ink

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 112 posts
  • Location:gold coast queensland

Posted 12 February 2007 - 10:53 PM

hey mate, something i shoulda probably mentioned earlier.....you should chuck a new throwout bearing in it as well while your at it, as there would be nothing worse than getting all the work done and driving it for a few weeks then hear the bearing start to squeel its head off at the traffic lights! then you gota pull it all out again, just the sake of 20 or so bux !

as for the machining of the flywheel.....its the same sort of story, as itl have grooves & maybe fine cracks from"wear & tear" which makes a uneven "mating"(for the lack of a better word. lol !) suface for your new clutch plate, so that will shorten the life span a fair amount just bedding it in, and im sure you dont want to go through this lil mission to soon.

ohh now that im thinking in advance .......you might be able to get whichever machine shop you goto to press the throwout bearing on as well mate, and if you know anybody with a alignment tool to suit the datsun, or a front shaft out a gearbox, this will help heaps to ! good luck mate, keep us posted on how you go -chris.

#23 zedevan

zedevan

    The 1000+ club

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,346 posts
  • Location:Melbourne

Posted 13 February 2007 - 08:27 AM

yeah that makes sense as to why get the flywheel machined, as its not like brake pads which are pretty cheap and easy to replace so it doesn't really matter that your wasting some of it to bed it in.

i dont think i know anyone with an alignment tool :(

i'm not going to get a chance to work on it tonight or tomorrow ofcourse, so the update might be awhile off lol, thanks for your help!

#24 Rod F

Rod F

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 101 posts
  • Location:Melbourne

Posted 13 February 2007 - 12:19 PM

Hey Evan, i've got an input shaft I used on mine last year for the same thing. Let me know if you need it (or a hand, i'm eastern suburbs as well)

#25 Zeddophile

Zeddophile

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 987 posts
  • Location:Melbourne

Posted 13 February 2007 - 12:25 PM

there is another trick for an aligning tool - a bit of broom handle with some electrical tape to bring it up to size. Works very well, although using a dead input shaft is much quicker!

Just curious, why would the throwout bearing need to be pressed on? when I put my 280 gearbox in, the throwout bearing was a complete assembly that just slides on, no pressing required? The brass spigot bush can be a pain to put in, but thats in the back of the crankshaft, and isn't too hard to fit with a soft faced hammer....

#26 tattoo_ink

tattoo_ink

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 112 posts
  • Location:gold coast queensland

Posted 13 February 2007 - 01:03 PM

ok im not sure about the zeds throw out bearing but most cars are press on sorry for the miss information zedevan ! i didnt realise zeds have a complete unit, thanx for the correction, zeddophile ! :oops: - chris.

ps - id probably take up rod f's offer of the input shaft, as its the most accurate way to do allign it !

#27 JP240z

JP240z

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 357 posts
  • Location:Deer Park, Melbourne

Posted 13 February 2007 - 05:15 PM

i made a tool on the lathe a few weeks back when i took my clutch out.
It worked perfectly alowing the gearbox to go back in easier than it came out.
You are welcome to use it if you would like.

#28 zedevan

zedevan

    The 1000+ club

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,346 posts
  • Location:Melbourne

Posted 13 February 2007 - 09:55 PM

i dont really get what these tools are for aligning, so far i've just asked my dad what to do next he tells me and then i go back and ask again lol! hence y i'm asking questions, so yeah any tools/help would be great. i noticed when lowered the gearbox how much it wanted to rotate, and was thinking it wouldn't be much help to get back the way it was, is this what having another input shaft helps with or something else?

Rod your help would be great, but dont want to waste your time so might just see how i go first :S at this stage it looks like i wont get a chance to put it back in till sunday week, so the 25th, could you pm me your number and i'll give you a call in regards to picking up the thingy sometime :D

#29 gav240z

gav240z

    Administrator

  • Administrators
  • 12,395 posts
  • Website:http://www.viczcar.com
  • Location:Sydney NSW
  • Tagline:Jack of all trades, master of none.

Posted 14 February 2007 - 12:02 PM

Hey Evan the alignment tool you mention is used to help you when putting the gearbox back in.

Basically it centers the clutch itself so when you are under the car trying to put the box back in you don't go nuts like I did without one.

They often include a small plastic one with clutch kits. I would recommend using one especially if your the only person doing the work.

Trying to insert a gearbox for over an hour under the car is hard work lol. Trust me!

#30 zedevan

zedevan

    The 1000+ club

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,346 posts
  • Location:Melbourne

Posted 14 February 2007 - 12:33 PM

lowering the gearbox with it twisting was nealy painful enough

i can get a hand from family members so hopefully i wont b stuck there for an hour trying to balance it, although i do plan on either borrowing the thing from rod or making one up with a broom handle which sounds pretty classy lol

#31 Zeddophile

Zeddophile

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 987 posts
  • Location:Melbourne

Posted 14 February 2007 - 05:31 PM

classy, but believe me it works! worst part of putting gearboxes back in is trying to get the angle right while rotating either the motor or output of the gearbox to get the splines to line up.... Thats when its good doing a rangie gearbox, stick it in gear, lock the transfer case, and you have a big handle at the pushing end to turn it over by! From memory, my zed gearbox didn't have anything sticking out the back, so you'll need to stick it in gear, possibly slide the tailshaft back on temporarily to help stop it turning, and get someone to turn the motor over slowly with a ratchet on the harmonic balancer, while you try to push it in!

#32 tattoo_ink

tattoo_ink

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 112 posts
  • Location:gold coast queensland

Posted 14 February 2007 - 06:18 PM

hey mate, dont force it in or let the gearbox hang halfway out without a jack under it either while youre trying to slot the box into the clutch either, or youl warp the clutch plate, and dont try to "clamp" up the gap between the bellhousing and engine block with the bolts! :shock:
it should push home with a bit of wriggling if youve got the clutch correctly aligned. take youre time mate youl get it ! -chris.

#33 zedevan

zedevan

    The 1000+ club

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,346 posts
  • Location:Melbourne

Posted 15 February 2007 - 12:39 PM

thanks for the tips, this now isn't going to be done till i get back from holidays, hopefully the day after although i assume i'll have to help clean up the caravan etc instead :( then have a wedding the weekend after, so i really should just do it one weeknight, ohwell, the bus is going alright

gio called me today coz they stuff up my address or something, so i asked about an engine conversion again, and they said its fine as long as its engineered, and it would b covered under my $100 extra excess fee for having modified wheels, so i think they are nut cases. i didn't ask if it had to be a nissan engine though, i just said, i'm looking at putting in a newer engine that was never offered as an option, most likely a turbo one, but either way it will have more power, although it will be the same capacity or less and the same type, ie straight 6, and thats what they said, so slightly not what they said last time, i think i'll just leave it until its done, if it ever is! still have a few other things i'd like to do with my money first and have to decide which engine, then find one! i'd like vvti for or a neo engine for the extra torque, although i'm thinking for the extra money this isn't worth it over other engine mods that could be done instead? time for another thread i guess or reading on skylinesaustralia!

#34 zedevan

zedevan

    The 1000+ club

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,346 posts
  • Location:Melbourne

Posted 28 February 2007 - 10:33 PM

well i finally got off my ass/had time to put the clutch and gearbox back in. i feel like a jackass as i was sitting there for ages turning the output of the gearbox wtih it in neutral as tested that it turned the front spline before lifting it up and it did, but obviously was just the fluid in the gearbox or whatever :(

i'm going to change the gearbox oil as its basically empty anyway, however i looked in the service manual thing i have and it says to use the recommended oil, which doesn't really help me know which sort i need to get lol, so any help with that would be great!

#35 zedevan

zedevan

    The 1000+ club

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,346 posts
  • Location:Melbourne

Posted 28 February 2007 - 10:43 PM

actully just looked up 260z's on the castrol website so will use what it recommends :D so hopefully i have time after work tomorrow to finish it off and take the car for a spin, then just have my fd seats to put in :D and hopefully rims soon and rear spoiler :D

#36 nat0_240_chevZ

nat0_240_chevZ

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 834 posts
  • Location:Adelaide

Posted 02 March 2007 - 05:37 PM

be carefull with the grade that they recommend. too thick = sincro and dog collar grind when cold and/or in winter months and renders your box due for replacements much much sooner than anyone would like.
Ive had recommended and used (in a different car however a FWD mitsi) straight motor oil but was a multigrade 20w70w now even on the coldest mornings i can change briskly and when it warms up even quicker. It all depends on the 'drag' the oil creates on the rotating assy, heaps with 90w oil, which is probly what you found when rotating the out shaft when in neutral.

just my 2c

nato

#37 Zeddophile

Zeddophile

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 987 posts
  • Location:Melbourne

Posted 02 March 2007 - 08:15 PM

Gearbox oils are strange things - for example, in landrovers, the old 4 speed box in early Rangies uses engine oil, later models use ATF, and then the most recent use synthetic gearbox oils.... Quite odd really.

#38 zedevan

zedevan

    The 1000+ club

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,346 posts
  • Location:Melbourne

Posted 04 March 2007 - 01:42 PM

yeah...the one they recommended on the website is for auto transmisions? i dont really get that at all...should i drain it out and go get other stuff or ?

i finally drove my car again today and it works :D now have the passenger side seat out and am playing with the mounts for the FD seats, seems pretty easy, i'll take some pics and post up a how to, but the guy on classiczcars really says it all, although doesn't have pictures of the whole process, but once u've got it infront of you it seems pretty easy...i hope

thanks to everyone who has helped, specially Rod for the use of his shaft ;) lol

#39 nat0_240_chevZ

nat0_240_chevZ

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 834 posts
  • Location:Adelaide

Posted 04 March 2007 - 08:00 PM

mmmm,
now if my first thoughts served me wrong??

thanks to everyone who has helped, specially Rod for the use of his shaft lol


mmmm, need i say anymore lol

#40 zedevan

zedevan

    The 1000+ club

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,346 posts
  • Location:Melbourne

Posted 04 March 2007 - 10:32 PM

the pun was intended, lol

got the seats in, they are heaps more supportive, i dont see anyway to get them sitting at the stock seats height very easily, not that they are uncomfortably high, and are probably a better height for me as i'm kinda short. the only thing thats annoying me is that the drivers seat isn't completely centered on the steering wheel, so will have to elongate some holes to correct this




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users