Screwed my clutch?
Posted 09 February 2007 - 08:09 AM
the clutch is now about twice as easy to push down on as before, and doesn't do so smoothly, and makes the rear end of the car shudder quite badly when engaging. i pulled over, checked fluid, can't see anything obviously wrong, so i caught the bus so i dont do more damange for now, although i assume its screwed and even if only part of it needs replacing i assume its the main part so may as well do all of it?
any ideas or tips on whats wrong/how to change it/any manuals i should purchase?
the only thing thats annoying me is that i was hoping this clutch would last me till i had a different engine and gearbox...which could be coming up quite soon, and if i'd blown the engine it would be happening now, so i'm tossing up whether to do it now, but a clutch isn't that expensive so kindof a stupid reason ? as if i did start playing with the engine etc, realistically it woudlnt b back on the road till the end of the year, i have another car to drive but i'd prefer to keep driving the zed as it is, knowing that eventually the clutch just wont engage at all, but there's nothing i can brake that doesn't already need replacing? yeah?
Posted 09 February 2007 - 09:38 AM
thanks for any help in advance!
Posted 09 February 2007 - 10:51 AM
Measure the width of your flywheel's shiny clutch contact surface.
If it's 225mm wide then you have a coupe version which uses a 550lb pressure-plate.
If it's 240mm wide then you have a 2+2/turbo version with a 780lb plate and a wider disc.
Both flywheels are the same at weight at 23 lbs, and the diameter is the same (only the contact area is wider). But a turbo pressure plate and disc clutch are definitely heavier than coupe version by a few pounds. So how much performance is actually lost with a heavier assembly? A good one to argue at Z meetings...
I haven't tried any of the competition clutches, but truthfully the only time you really need a stronger one is if your engine torque is causing the clutch to slip. I agree it sounds neat to say your car has a "competition clutch", but it doesn't make the car faster. I autocross and dragrace my Z, and my stock clutch works fine (really) after 2 years (Zoom brand). A buddy has a Centerforce 2 which feel very solid, but rumor has it the Centerforce One is a stock clutch with only extra weights hanging on the pressure plate fingers.
Used for decades to reduce drag on the engine and to make it spin up faster. It won't make the engine develop any more horsepower internally, but can cut down on parasitic drag. Better for track racing than dragracing, as on smaller engines the rotational inertia that helps the car off the line is reduced. This loss of inertia can make the engine rev down quickly between shifts. Some people consider them undriveable on the street, because the engine can stall easily, especially when cold. On motorcycles, having a too-light flywheel can make it stall between shifts(!) So keep this tradeoff in mind if you want one for your car.
There are 2 versions of flywheels on all '75-83 motors: coupe and 2+2/turbo. 23 lbs each.
Coupe and 2+2 clutches aren't interchangeable because the pressureplate dowel holes won't match the flywheel dowels.
You can use a Z 5-speed on any year Z block, and any year L28 clutch can be used, but the throwout bearing "collar" must match the style of the flywheel (coupe or 2+2). In other words, if you have a 2+2 flywheel, you need to change the throwout collar to a 2+2 version when using a coupe trans. And vice-versa.
Auto trans engines have a 1/4" metal spacer between the driveplate and crankshaft, remove this when adding a flywheel.
A pilot bushing needs to be installed in the crankshaft if using an auto trans engine (they didn't get one).
Unless you need the accessories, don't use a big 3-row harmonic balancer in front, get rid of it. Compared to a 280Z 2-row it weighs about 5lbs more. I've read that taking 10lbs off a 10" rear flywheel is the equivalent of taking 207lb off the front of the car. So I believe removing 5lbs from the front of the crankshaft is desirable. Also, I've been told the 3-rows like to break up over 6,000rpm.
All L28 balancers have identical TDC timing marks and are interchangeable.
I think i need a new clutch kit as well, let me know how yours goes
Posted 09 February 2007 - 10:59 AM
I know of someone with a Z who had this snap on them I guess the metal can fatigue over time.
If your clutch all of a sudden fails I would be looking at one of these items.
Throw Out Bearing
Rear Main Seal - If your clutch is slipping it could be from oil out of the back of the engine. The rear main seal can often leak. It should be replaced when putting in a new clutch also.
A clutch itself is probably not too expensive, but as quoted above you need to do several other things at the same time such as remachine a flywheel. Also my pressure plate was stuffed (the plate with all the teeth on it).
Posted 09 February 2007 - 02:30 PM
the clutch still disengages completely as far as i can tell (as otherwise it would cruch when changing gears yeah?)
as quoted above you need to do several other things at the same time such as remachine a flywheel. Also my pressure plate was stuffed (the plate with all the teeth on it)
hmmm i dont read that anywhere? the pressure plate comes in a clutch kit yeah? thats the (trade?) price for the kit, remaching the flywheel sounds like one of those while your at it type jobs, or am i going to notice a difference if i do this?
good to see to you back gav, i had money and some shocks to give back to you the other night, so next time
Posted 09 February 2007 - 02:37 PM
i'd like to give it a shot myself but comes down to time i guess, although i have another car i can use, just dont really want to spend nearly $500 on a problem that wasn't there when i woke up this morning lol. but yeah he said that there might just be something cheap wrong so best to have a look first.
the clutch had never slipped on me before this :oops: mayb its $300 labour, can't remember, as i htink he said the total would be 480, or mayb he said 380 so with tax 4 something, should call again...
Posted 09 February 2007 - 03:24 PM
Posted 09 February 2007 - 04:06 PM
with the pivot damaged though woudlnt it have trouble disengaging not engaging?
people at work have given me a couple of things to check and i'm sure my dad will be of some help, a couple of the guys said it could be the oil thing but my thought is that woudlnt it change the feel of the clutch pedal?
spending $500 on getting the clutch replaced seems stupid right now, would prefer to unregister it, which is a pain as just paid rego yesterday, and pay someone to put a gearbox in the gt4 as thats one job i know i dont want to try to tackle for sure! although even in peak hour driving the zed is atleast twice as fun as my dads crappy old corolla, so i'm sure the gt4 woudlnt compare either
Posted 09 February 2007 - 04:56 PM
i have clutch problems in my car, most of them are due to the clutch system meaning to allow for a worn clutch plate. I think problems with the throw out bearing would be very noisy. But that clutch fork can be problematic. Best bet is to investigate further there i think.
Posted 09 February 2007 - 05:47 PM
the clutch fluid is now above the max mark, no idea where it used to be, does this help with diagnosing the prob? i just drove it home from where it was (3-5km) and besides some vibrations you woudln't know anything was wrong, although i was driving it as nicely as possible and trying not to change gears
Posted 09 February 2007 - 07:59 PM
Posted 09 February 2007 - 08:06 PM
if the clutch needs to b redone and i can't do it i'm leaning towards the idea of getting the gt4 back on the road while i can sort out plans for my car a lotus 7 is still on my mind back there somewhere, but i dont really want to b run over! lol
sorry i kinda of use this to think through my options, any input is welcome
thanks chris, read that after writing this, thats what i was planning on doing, just wondering if there were any better ideas lol, but good to know what it should be doing so thanks! ohwell time to wait till there's light
Posted 09 February 2007 - 10:43 PM
Hope my little knowlege comes of use.
Posted 10 February 2007 - 05:29 PM
if that clutch rod has snapped the clutch wont disengage. pulled the gearbox out this afternoon and the pressure plate looks stuffed so hopefully a new one of them fixes the problem, and the clutch bit that wears is pretty worn, the slots in it are only just visable, so was nearly time for another clutch anyway i guess
i called gio today re: engine conversion and they said they wouldnt b able to cover me at all :s so obviously talked to the wrong person lol. will call again another time and approach it differently, and hopefully talk to the lady i talked to the first time!
Posted 11 February 2007 - 05:23 PM
Posted 11 February 2007 - 09:22 PM
Posted 12 February 2007 - 11:19 AM
Posted 12 February 2007 - 11:44 AM
but thanks for the tip of how to install the dust cover, no idea when i'm going to get time to get one from a nissan, hopefully the blackburn one has one and i can convince my mum to stop in there
would you happen to have the part number for it?
Posted 12 February 2007 - 12:11 PM
Posted 12 February 2007 - 04:03 PM
the main prob is i can't b bothered getting so dirty for only a couple of hours and then it will get dark and i dont have enough lighting, so will prob just wait till i'm back from holidays, giving public transport a shot, so off to the bus now :s well tram then bus, or tram train bus, so many options hehe
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