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Factory 10,000rpm Tachometer


Riceburner

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Hi Gav

 

They are looking good, I believe that if you reprinted the entire guage set in the same type face only the absolute purest would notice.

Also, how do you plan on working out the adjustable yellow needle ?

 

 

Cheers

 

PB

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What about tacho accuracy? I'm interested in this but i need an accurate tacho at high RPM which the factory unit is not. Any thoughts?

 

Could you put this face on a speed hut gauge?

Edited by d3c0y
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Long term thinking, I was going to get mine recalibrated to suit the ignition system I use.

 

I would like to reproduce the yellow box (which is part of the Sports Option CDI ignition system). Not sure how I'll do that yet, but seeing what Ron did with the Oscillator box for the Rally Clocks gave me some motivation.

 

At this stage I'm just trying to do the designs, there is quite a few different gauges that interest me (attached some examples) not to mention the PS30-SB ones like the 100L fuel tank and metric gauge oil pressure etc..

 

Worrying about accuracy at this stage is not really on my radar. I will be happy enough if the gauges turn out looking good.

2q83jhd.jpg

1484463381168-be05e4dc-3041-4dd5-842b-617e18037a39.jpg

yqddw679-img600x450-14602506611460250661.6034153956fevxs15395.jpg

432tacho.jpg

16144859_10154663358804457_1003028038_n.jpg

e10dc6ee-0500-4381-bcae-a86f7b8e3795.png

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Well that's a bit selfish, what about us people with high performance motors!

 

Are you going to put a 100L tank in or just have a weird inaccurate fuel gauge?

 

Regardless of the ignition system you use the tacho will still not be great.

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Well that's a bit selfish, what about us people with high performance motors!
 
Are you going to put a 100L tank in or just have a weird inaccurate fuel gauge?

Regardless of the ignition system you use the tacho will still not be great.

 

To be honest I hadn't really intended to produce them for sale. I wasn't sure if there would be demand from enough individuals, it seems the largest market in North America (in terms of S30Zs) have little interest in some of the old factory parts. Much more interested in the latest hipster wheels and body kits. But like the gearknob inserts I may be surprised?

 

I am not sure if I plan to put a 100L tank in, so much as I was interested in reproducing some of the rare gauge sets I see above just for the challenge and fun of it. It's a good way to re-learn Adobe Illustrator since it's been a few years since I last touched it.

 

You could always put modern electrics behind the face if that's your thing and you want it to be more accurate?

 

Personally I want to keep the original inaccurate stuff at this stage. A place for everything, everything in its place. :).

 

Here's a couple more rare gauges. Thanks to Alan Thomas and his PS30-SB build thread.

 

 

Some interior detail parts. 1969-dated 432-specific 10,000rpm tachometer, Km speedo, metric oil pressure gauge and ( super rare ) 100 litre fuel level gauge

c84d57382190f1dfed6f6599f302a6f7.jpg

ee70792d1398438c0a9896c47feca881.jpg

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I likey  8)

 

Do you know the dimensions of the CDI box, can you fit a modern one inside the replica box?

 

No I don't, but I know someone who might have 1 (in Australia) I can use to measure up. They are mega expensive now, like insane expensive. There is also a white version with a military canon style plug that was the works part originally used on the likes of the Rally Cars (I got all this info from Alan btw). The yellow/orange box came later.

 

I've never seen a photo of the white box (only photo I have I believe is the 1 attached).

 

To give you some frame of reference here is a pic on the transmission tunnel of a genuine PZR with an orange box!

 

So I'd imagine you might be able to tuck an MSD unit into it...

 

 

882d8384-f3a8-41e6-bc73-9c6bf5cc6edb.jpeg

temp-7.jpg

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Hard to say but the mitsubishi box looks a little too short for the MSD6AL-2 box. Would Kameari's CDI box fit? It is a little smaller IIRC.

 

I've not had any experience with either, so couldn't say for sure..

 

By the way you may appreciate this photo. (can you see what Tach it's running?) :P

23915404009_50bccb0b5d_b (1).jpg

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Where do you get all these great old pics from? I could look at that stuff all day long.

 

I got that 1 from here:

http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/forum/forum/garages/datsun-nissan-garage/287661-vintage-datsun-fairlady-z-and-240z-racing-and-rally-images

 

However there is no captions with those images to tell you more about them.

 

I believe however that the photo I posted above was / is a genuine PZR race car and had it's S20 removed and re-fitted with an L24 for a special type of circuit racing in Japan. I seem to recall Alan discussing it recently on Classiczcars.com in a debate about S20 vs L24 and which is better... If I can find it I'll post it again.

 

I made a few edits last nigh to the tach, most probably wouldn't spot the difference but I didn't have a good example of the small inscription at the bottom of the tach where it says KANTO SEIKI and has the company logo.

 

What's interesting is that I noticed Australian tach's have some kind of ADR mark I believe.

 

2017-04-27.png

 

Horrible pic but it was enough to allow me to trace what I needed. Note the ADR IC I am pretty sure that is for Australian Design Regulation etc..Would love to know if anybody else knows for sure?

https://goo.gl/photos/tRwu75fzSYHugDa5A

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How did the 100 L tank fit in Gav? I assume it drops down lower with longer straps? That would be useful for long trips, I assume they are hard to find?

 

The 100L fuel tank displaced the spare tyre well, it is similar to the Skyline fuel tank. Photos of a genuine PS30-SB here.

http://www.classiczcars.com/profile/8135-take432r/content/?type=gallery_image

 

Z432-R boot floor.

http://www.classiczcars.com/gallery/image/33920-432r-is-beautiful-but/

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This came out looking quite good, only problem is I can't quite get the alignment of the positioning of numbers right. If I scanned the real deal in, it would probably have been easier...

 

432-tach.png

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How did the 100 L tank fit in Gav? I assume it drops down lower with longer straps? That would be useful for long trips, I assume they are hard to find?

 

Repeat after me:

 

"I don't want a 100 litre fuel tank".

"I don't need a 100 litre fuel tank".

"I don't want a 100 litre fuel tank".

"I don't need a 100 litre fuel tank".

"I don't want a 100 litre fuel tank".

"I don't need a 100 litre fuel tank".

"I don't want a 100 litre fuel tank".

"I don't need a 100 litre fuel tank".

"I don't want a 100 litre fuel tank".

"I don't need a 100 litre fuel tank".

"I don't want a 100 litre fuel tank".

"I don't need a 100 litre fuel tank".

"I don't want a 100 litre fuel tank".

"I don't need a 100 litre fuel tank".

"I don't want a 100 litre fuel tank".

"I don't need a 100 litre fuel tank".

"I don't need a 100 litre fuel tank".

"I don't need a 100 litre fuel tank".

"I don't want a 100 litre fuel tank".

"I don't need a 100 litre fuel tank".

"I don't want a 100 litre fuel tank".

"I don't need a 100 litre fuel tank".

"I don't want a 100 litre fuel tank".

"I don't need a 100 litre fuel tank".

"I don't want a 100 litre fuel tank".

"I don't need a 100 litre fuel tank".

"I don't want a 100 litre fuel tank".

"I don't need a 100 litre fuel tank".

"I don't want a 100 litre fuel tank".

"I don't need a 100 litre fuel tank".

"I don't want a 100 litre fuel tank".

"I don't need a 100 litre fuel tank".

"I don't want a 100 litre fuel tank".

"I don't need a 100 litre fuel tank".

"I don't want a 100 litre fuel tank".

"I don't need a 100 litre fuel tank".

"I don't want a 100 litre fuel tank".

"I don't need a 100 litre fuel tank".

"I don't want a 100 litre fuel tank".

"I don't need a 100 litre fuel tank".

"I don't want a 100 litre fuel tank".

"I don't need a 100 litre fuel tank".

"I don't want a 100 litre fuel tank".

"I don't need a 100 litre fuel tank".

"I don't want a 100 litre fuel tank".

"I don't need a 100 litre fuel tank".

"I don't want a 100 litre fuel tank".

"I don't need a 100 litre fuel tank".

"I don't want a 100 litre fuel tank".

 

...and keep going.

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Also, how do you plan on working out the adjustable yellow needle ?

 

It turns out that the 280zx Analog clocks have a very similar looking knob, only problem is they are encapsulated in the plastic lens. I'm not sure how they did it, but there is a spring behind it also so when you push on it you can adjust the clock hands etc.. I am not sure if Ron at Zclocks re-makes his own lens for clocks (I'm fairly sure he's made tooling to do it). In which case I may ask him about making a moulding with the 280zx knob and using another tach's spare needle and attaching it painting it "orange" etc.. although I wonder if the original colour is red and the photos show orange because it's faded over the years? It certainly seems that the Rally Clocks second hand faded to an orange (from a red-ish colour).

 

I also think red would look more suitable... but first steps first.

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I think you've said it is too much weight in the rear of the car? Is that the biggest issue?

 

Well, it's very heavy when full (which has all sorts of other implications) and the cars that got them from the factory - the 432-Rs and the works race and rally cars - had different rear floors (deleted spare tyre well, as you mentioned), different, beefier, rearmost body crossmembers and different tank hanger brackets. To do the whole thing properly so that it looks authentic and works properly is a real lot of graft and fabrication.

 

Factory race cars (and some of the later - injected - works rally cars) ended up with alloy 110 litre and even 120 litre tanks. It was a real endurance racing thing.

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@Gareth - is this the company that helped you recalibrate your tach?

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Hit-300-Automotive-Instruments/196678970356842

 

It looks like they have rebranded to.

http://www.overline.com.au/

Hit 300 Automotive Instruments

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So I did what I set out to avoid doing, that is trace each single number manually... I hate doing it this way as it's far more work and rarely do the characters (alphanumberic ones look correct when traced out).

 

But here is a sample of the tach with the "correct' type face.

 

Bookmark for my own reference.

https://mazda626.net/topic/39309-making-custom-gauge-faces/

Screen Shot 2017-04-30 at 1.07.53 PM.png

works-tach-ver4.png

432-tach-ver2.png

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Note the ADR IC I am pretty sure that is for Australian Design Regulation etc..Would love to know if anybody else knows for sure?

ADR = Australian Design Rule. ADRs are a series of rules implemented from 1 January 1969 on, covering an increasing list of safety requirements for Aus-new cars.

There is an ADR 1 which covers reversing lamps, and some of the ADRs have an 'A' or a 'B' appellation, but I can't find any 'IC' in the docs I have to hand.

 

Anyway, the 'ADR' and 'IC' on your tach face are different type faces and I propose that they have quite separate meanings and aren't to be read together.

Reasoning: my NZ-new RS30 tach doesn't have the 'ADR' on it's tacho face, it solely has the 'IC'.

Perhaps others might like to check their non-Aus-new cars and report back?

Edited by gilltech
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