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Light Weight 240z?


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#41 V8Datto

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Posted 15 June 2009 - 07:05 PM

few more

240z front bumper 4kg
240z dash (empty , not even the gluve box lid) 6kg
240z Fiber glass bonnet 5kg
260z steel bonnet 15kg

#42 garvice

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Posted 15 June 2009 - 07:07 PM

240z dash (empty , not even the gluve box lid) 6kg

Is that with foam and vinyl on the dash?
My 260z dash felt like it weighed a whole lot more then that.

#43 Zeddophile

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Posted 15 June 2009 - 07:12 PM

Ahh yes off to Mc Donalds for the Pounder. aka double double quarter pounder. mmmmm


Yay, squeeze it and watch the oil run out.  Only thing more fun than eating it is watching the faces of the people eating with you!

Bit hard to quantify, but definitely less than half of my 40kg jack.
I would say 10-15kg is in the ball park.

I guess that means if your going to put a race seat in (<5kg with rails) you can spend $1-1.5k (@$200/kg) on a seat. More then double that if you remove both seats.


On my sparco seat spec sheet, the lightest seat they offer is 5.5kg for the shell, and thats carbon fibre (about $2000-2500 for a seat, plus rails/side mounts or whatever).  Fibreglass shells are generally around 8.5-9 kg, at approx $1100 per seat (before mounts).  Not a huge saving with the standard seats only weighing 14kg.....  Unlike an Alfetta seat, which you just about need a crane to lift!  However, the gain in lateral support is definitely worth it.

#44 V8Datto

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Posted 15 June 2009 - 07:23 PM

Is that with foam and vinyl on the dash?
My 260z dash felt like it weighed a whole lot more then that.


It a re-skined dash
There's a pic in my gallery,

#45 Add

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Posted 16 June 2009 - 06:43 PM

Easy way to get it to 900 take the engine out  :P

#46 aarc240

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Posted 28 June 2009 - 04:13 PM

Shorten / replace all bolts throughout the car so just 1 to 2 threads penetrate through the nut. Don't use bolts with long pilot noses.
Consider small head bolts and thin washers anywhere not load bearing. That's good for another 2.2kg (approximate).

Switch to a dual master cylinder and aluminium  pedal box, remove the power booster. About 1 kg

Leave the bonnet / hood torsion bars out for another 0.5kg. If you are using a GRP bonnet / hood, use four hood pins and leave the hinges out for another 1 kg.

GRP dash with sheet aluminium frame and stock instruments will save 7 kg, aluminium heater / demister another 5 kg.
If you need a demister (like I did) replace the stock vent hoses with convoluted paper/aluminium material like is used for exhaust to air cleaner ducting plus trim the demister outlets to the bare minimum, save another 0.5 kg.

Delete the window winders completely and use a leather strap from the bottom of the glass up and over the inside of the door. A button head screw in the door and a suitable line of holes in the leather strap to hold the windows at various desired heights and you've just saved yourself another 5 kg.

Don't be tempted by GRP door shells, even with a cage, as a heavy side impact will leave you regretting it (if you live through it!). Get the inner shell acid dipped to thin it and then use the thinnest repro skin you can find. It will still save 4 kg for both sides without seriously compromising safety.


#47 stevo_gj

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Posted 28 June 2009 - 04:20 PM

Shorten / replace all bolts throughout the car so just 1 to 2 threads penetrate through the nut. Don't use bolts with long pilot noses.
Consider small head bolts and thin washers anywhere not load bearing. That's good for another 2.2kg (approximate).

Switch to a dual master cylinder and aluminium  pedal box, remove the power booster. About 1 kg

Leave the bonnet / hood torsion bars out for another 0.5kg. If you are using a GRP bonnet / hood, use four hood pins and leave the hinges out for another 1 kg.

GRP dash with sheet aluminium frame and stock instruments will save 7 kg, aluminium heater / demister another 5 kg.
If you need a demister (like I did) replace the stock vent hoses with convoluted paper/aluminium material like is used for exhaust to air cleaner ducting plus trim the demister outlets to the bare minimum, save another 0.5 kg.

Delete the window winders completely and use a leather strap from the bottom of the glass up and over the inside of the door. A button head screw in the door and a suitable line of holes in the leather strap to hold the windows at various desired heights and you've just saved yourself another 5 kg.

Don't be tempted by GRP door shells, even with a cage, as a heavy side impact will leave you regretting it (if you live through it!). Get the inner shell acid dipped to thin it and then use the thinnest repro skin you can find. It will still save 4 kg for both sides without seriously compromising safety.


Crikey some of that seems pretty extreme!! You're a dedicated man  :P

Gotta admit the bolts thing seems risky  :-\

#48 Zeddophile

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Posted 28 June 2009 - 06:00 PM

Crikey some of that seems pretty extreme!! You're a dedicated man  :P

Gotta admit the bolts thing seems risky  :-\


Why risky, Stevo?  He's talking about trimming the excess thread off the end of the bolt, the amount of thread contact area remains the same.  If it comes loose, doesn't matter if there are 10 threads or 2 threads it has to unscrew over - its still loose!  And the small headed bolts I imagine go places like gauge cluster brackets etc - things that aren't subject to big loadings.

#49 stevo_gj

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Posted 29 June 2009 - 12:53 AM

Oh I see!

I thought he was talking about only having two or three actual threads contacting with the thread on the nut. Now it seems obvious that he meant the extra bit that was protruding out the end.

#50 .

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Posted 29 June 2009 - 01:26 PM

Hmmmm food for thought alright. I have a lot of work to do. I think I will create a plan to complete for this time next year. I will definatly add the dash and side windows to the plan.

I just competed in Wheels on Wide Bay over the weekend. The car was solid but not blistering. I think the weight reduction is very necessary.

Also had my car on the dyno for the first time. As it was being set up someone asked what I thought it might be. I said I'd be happy with 130 RWHP. It ended up being 129.5.... what a guess. I am happy with that considering it is only a mild engine with a standard ECU. Hopefully I will add a few more ponies by the same event next year.

#51 aarc240

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Posted 01 July 2009 - 12:50 PM

Standard ECU, eh? It's an L28 with factory injection?
In that case, some easy mods will lift the power considerably.
Change the injectors to VL turbo Commodore, fit right in and good for 250cc vs 205cc.
Replace the throttle body with one from a VN/VP Commodore, this requires an adaptor but any reasonable machine shop can do that as it's pretty basic. Use the VN/VP throttle position sensor (in fact use as much GM sensor stuff as you can, less headaches getting things calibrated).
Toss the AFM, you want to be using MAP with a replacement ECU anyway, something decent (and digital), I've used Megasquirt with good results.
Install a wideband EGO sensor and btw I couldn't find enough difference in stock exhaust manifold vs extractors on a motor this mild to bother paying for extractors.
Duct from the throttle body to an enclosed type air cleaner, R31 Skyline is pretty easy to adapt, then set up its inlet to pull air from ahead of the radiator (over top of the radiator support panel works well).
If you have one, install an 'A' cam from an early 240Z.
It takes some work but about 160RWHP without being a cantankerous bitch to drive makes it all worth while, particularly in a light 240Z.

A lightening trick I've seen is to decide on what bits will rarely if ever have to be taken out / separated etc and use aluminium pop rivets to hold them together! The same team was using aluminium bolts / screws etc for securing front fenders on, headlights in, in fact anything they thought they could get away with!
Never gone that far myself but it's worth considering.

#52 sco_aus

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Posted 01 July 2009 - 06:33 PM

Go on a diet...  10kg is easy enough with a bit of motiovation

#53 Lurch ™

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Posted 01 July 2009 - 07:44 PM

Go on a diet...  10kg is easy enough with a bit of motiovation

Maybe for you...








:-X ;D

#54 sco_aus

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Posted 01 July 2009 - 07:45 PM

It was a joke and yes I could lose 10kg, but then again I could not also..

#55 waxhead

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Posted 02 July 2009 - 11:33 AM

The gearbox is very heavy on these cars

#56 sco_aus

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Posted 02 July 2009 - 11:34 AM

but you cant exactly remove it..  hehe just jokin

#57 waxhead

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Posted 02 July 2009 - 11:36 AM

True you may need it at some stage

#58 sexual_sushi

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Posted 02 July 2009 - 11:51 AM

has anyone weighed the difference between the L series box and the s/13/14/15 box? Thought the newer S boxes might be lighter but probably not as they are mostly made from the same material, they may even be heavier...

#59 garvice

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Posted 02 July 2009 - 04:30 PM

but you cant exactly remove it..  hehe just jokin

Depending on what sort of track you are racing and what torque your putting out, you might not need all the gears. Might even be able to do with just 2nd to 4th. ;D

Now I am just talking garbage, don't listen to me.

#60 sco_aus

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Posted 02 July 2009 - 04:50 PM

lol




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