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Stivva

Relocating the battery the rear of the car. Couple of Qs.

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I have the cable from my last car ready to go, so I decided to make the move in the zed for the battery to the rear. Does the positive wire have to make it's pittstop at the dash (my isolator switch was removed prior to me owning the car) but j am unsure whether there are other wires at this point making a connection. I guess my question is can I run my positive straight from the battery to the starter with no pittstops on the way.

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Stivva

 

Just looked at the wiring diagram I have and I cant see any pitstops as you put it.

 

Just make sure that you run a solid earh strap to the body from the new battery location.

 

If you are running fuel injection seperate lines will have to be run via fusable links directly to the ECU.

 

If this info is incorrect can someone please butt in and correct me.

 

Cheers

 

John

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Sounds great from what I have looked at on the car and what you have said here. I also have enough cable to earth back to the block, I might still fit a new isolator switch but I know for now I can put the new cable in and have it not disrupt anything else.

 

Also, I have no fuel lines down that side of the car and no efi, just on carbs.

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Just earth it to a sound posi near the battery with a quality strap, dont think you have to run an earth all the way back to the block Stivva

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Personally the battery in the back isn't a mod I have worried about with the race car. For safety reasons I would rather have the battery out of the cabin.

 

I badly crashed a sports 1300 at Amaroo Park and took an acid bath, luckily it didn't get through the suit, so I have an aversion to batteries in the cabin.

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I run an oddesy dry cell so the fumes or acid doesn't worry ne, although driving an L series engine with carbs and worrying about fumes kind if goes hand in hand. I actually need the room in my bay for the oil catch can which will live where the battery tray resides.

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just make sure its the largest batttery you can find and must be full of acid, liquid of course, not a small gel type, remember its in the cabin, mmmm lovely fumes to breathe

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I run an oddesy dry cell so the fumes or acid doesn't worry ne, although driving an L series engine with carbs and worrying about fumes kind if goes hand in hand. I actually need the room in my bay for the oil catch can which will live where the battery tray resides.

 

I just remember reading if the battery is to be mounted in the cabin you need to vent the battery box to the outside but a dry cell makes sense. Have to get me one of those. I need the room to mount my coils and maybe move the engine computer. Usually the positive cable just runs under the carpet to a post in the engine bay and you can run the thick starter motor wire to the body.

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just make sure its the largest batttery you can find and must be full of acid, liquid of course, not a small gel type, remember its in the cabin, mmmm lovely fumes to breathe

 

Are you taking the piss?

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I'm using one of those "Pulse" brand gell cells (Odyssey clone?) installed behind the passenger seat with the ground and positive running to the standard locations. This battery is only around 200ish CCA and has plenty of grunt to start my L24. Carbies might be another story; EFI starts almost straight away no matter how long my car sits for. You don't need a battery box for these as they have no liquid electrolyte to spill and can be run in any orientation except up side down.

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I had a new battery tray made. This holds the battery underneath a oil catch can. It was custom made and a one off. I have really bad Cell Phone pic I will attach for you. My battery is a small dry cell unit and as my zed is EFI like Dimitri I should not have any starting issues.

 

Since these pics were taken I have added the vent filter on the top - also under the centre of the catch can area is another Dash AN fitting that comes forward to a tap just under the battery. I then add a Dash 6 hose fitting when I need to drain the can.

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Well I have run my battery inside the cabin for over 8 years in the rear hatch and never had a problem with fumes, breathing or any other stuff that the over conservative worry about.  :) Yes its a normal wet battery but is in an enclosed box in case of a roll over or crash, but that's it. Oh and there were no stops for my positive cable except for the isolator switch.

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I'd be concerned about sparks and the fumes in the box though NZeder ???

Very pretty though  :)

How so? It is a sealed battery that does "Gas Recombination" and is a "lead-calcium tin alloy" aka no acid so how can that fume - it can be mounted in "any orientation" upside down if you wish. Sparks....well if you are that worried about sparks don't drive a stock zed then have you seen how close the factory battery holder is to the positive terminal - much closer than this setup. Trust me I know - my zed caught fire many many years ago at a sealed gymkhana event when the battery moved 3-4 mm shorting out the + on the factory holder = Fire and melted/welded battery holder = rewire the high power part of the car as that all got smoked too (ie alternator wires, fusible links

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Thinking more so when you disconnect and reconnect the battery, only needs a tiny spark and a build up of fumes from the catchcan.

Just a thought, thats all.

It is a thing of beauty though, great use of space.

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Thinking more so when you disconnect and reconnect the battery, only needs a tiny spark and a build up of fumes from the catchcan.

Just a thought, thats all.

It is a thing of beauty though, great use of space.

ok those fumes. Well I would hope my engine does not fume that much + I don't plan on disconnecting the battery very often either. I have a isolating switch/circuit breaker to disconnect the battery and will have another location for posts for charging and jumping if need be.

 

And you are right it does look beautiful - cost a bit and now the inner guards have been drilled for it to be mounted it will be staying.

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Love the fab work and use of space NZeder! My concern would be that annoying seep of oil that catch cans have eventually covering the battery.

 

As far as mounting the battery in the back of the vehicle, a large wire from battery +ve to starter and large wire to body then large wire from body to engine should suffice.  Large wire needed because of the voltage drop experienced, especially whilst cranking the engine.

 

Securely mount the battery and then cover it to prevent cargo causing issues ie. something metal touching exposed terminals and letting the smoke out. Everyone knows that electrical systems can't function without the smoke secured inside.

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Are you taking the piss?

not at all  just dont use a acid battery inside the cabin ,bit of sarco there,  Dimetri wrapped it up very well, its a harley davo bike battery and work well , tho i would recomend whilst your at it to fit a isolator switch

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not at all  just dont use a acid battery inside the cabin ,bit of sarco there,  Dimetri wrapped it up very well, its a harley davo bike battery and work well , tho i would recomend whilst your at it to fit a isolator switch

 

I only ask because I had already stated I run a dry cell, and the Isolator is a big yes. May as well make all the improvements I can while doing this tidy up.

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