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Is having too big a brake master cylinder a problem?


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#21 Ben

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Posted 16 February 2011 - 09:32 PM

lucky you - mine are on the tower side.

PS
The 2 brake 'distribution' blocks in the engine bay are bias and front/rear brake fail warning (the handbrake light will illuminate if a circuit has no pressure). Don't expect it to work - it's probably got over 30 years of gunk in it...

#22 benny

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Posted 16 February 2011 - 09:53 PM

hey ben,

on a side note can you tell me the colour of the wire going to the pressure switch??



#23 Ben

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Posted 18 February 2011 - 10:41 PM

Yellow/green, exiting the harness near the starter solenoid wire (black/yellow).
Note that I don't have this differential pressure switch fitted any more
And I told a lie - the bleed nipples on my JB1419 are on the engine side, not the strut side...
::)

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#24 benny

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Posted 18 February 2011 - 11:01 PM

just what i wanted to hear!! i was like where the hell does this wire go... now I know!!

#25 Ledge

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Posted 24 February 2011 - 07:04 AM

Hi all
I recently fitted the Arizona 6 piston front ,4 piston rear and went with the 1 " master
and took it out on the track yesterday , after a few hairy moments with to much rear
brake bias i would highly recomend the 1 " . Pedal travel and feel is to my satisfaction.
But on standard brakes as others have said may be to hard to push.

Regards
Paul

#26 neRok

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Posted 24 February 2011 - 10:38 AM

thats why i got the 1" now, in preperation for a brake upgrade later. no point spending money twice i thought.

how much did the brakes cost you to ship? i was going to get the 4 piston front and rear kit with 5 lug, seems very good for the money.

#27 Ledge

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Posted 24 February 2011 - 03:54 PM

HI
I got Front and rear LCA's, Steering arms, Solid diff mount, 6 piston 13" front and 4 piston rear
was around au4500 delivered . Supperb value i thought.
While the dollar is up anyway.
Regards
Paul

#28 neRok

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Posted 24 February 2011 - 05:04 PM

was that including the tax and stuff customs charge, which is like 20% for packages over 1k afaik?

#29 Ledge

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Posted 24 February 2011 - 06:21 PM

Hi
Paid another 370 for customs .
Paul

#30 neRok

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Posted 28 February 2011 - 03:24 PM

had a quick play with the brakes on the weekend but caused more problems that i fixed. pulled the front wheels off, no leaks and almost no pads, so ive got new pads to put in. then pulled the rear wheels off, drivers side looked fine and heaps left on the shoes. passenger side had similar amount on the shoes, but everything was wet/greasy. i thought this might be my problem, leaking wheel cylinder. so i gave it a pump, went to the back, no leaks. gave it another pump, no leaks. got someone else to pump and hold whilst i watched, no leaks. one more to make sure, POP, out comes the piston :(

so, not worth the money buying new cylinders, they are a rip! ive read you can get them rebuilt pretty cheap, so i guess that means i can just push the cylinder back in if the seal looks alright (thats what they would do with a rebuild yeah). what you reckon?

now the greasy mess in the drum, its oil/fluid mixed with the brake dust obviously. havent studied the manual for the rear IRS, but could this be leaking grease from stub axle or something. is it easy to correct?

#31 benny

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Posted 28 February 2011 - 04:22 PM

I had the same issue so i just converted to discs on the back!!

#32 Huw

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Posted 28 February 2011 - 08:15 PM

Well.....as this delves in to an issue I am looking at now....

the 15/16 MC, where is the best place to get it? I am looking for a new one.....

I have looked at the Protex catalogue for P/N 1361 and can't seem to see anything (just wanted to confirm dimensions & model etc.)

79-81 280ZX, correct?


#33 neRok

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Posted 28 February 2011 - 09:20 PM

@ benny, i want to, but the plan was get this car driving as is whilst i finish off my other 2 cars, then go to town on the zed.

so im thinking ill try re-assemble myself, and if all else fails i found a local(ish) joint that will rebuild them and that will cost ~$50 at the most, including a re-sleave.

@ Huw, check the supercheap price thread stickied in the parts section.

#34 benny

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Posted 28 February 2011 - 10:10 PM

farout... if you only got quoted $50 then go for it my quote was over $200!! Hence why i went the disc route!!

#35 neRok

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Posted 19 March 2011 - 08:59 PM

update time  8)

pulled the wheel cylinder apart and cleaned everything. it all looked good condition, except the dust seal was a bit ratty, but meh. put it all back together, bled it, seems to be holding up good. so i was done with the rear, went to stand up and touched something in my hand, it was a spring that goes on the end of the piston to stop it bottoming out i guess. doh. ive left it for now, if it fails ill fix it then.

moved on to the fronts to replace my pads. think i worked out why i didnt have good breaking before. there was so little pad left that the retainer clips were actually hitting each other! crazy, see the pic. new pads in, bled it up good, now it actually stops properly.

so the big master cylinder does work. the pedal is pretty hard, but i have felt clutch pedals harder, so its all good imo. saying that though, you do have to push pretty hard, so here is hoping i dont put my foot through the firewall haha. also, its not the greatest for slowly braking, but it stops quick when you need to.

so now this problem is over, i can work out why my car is slow  :-[

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#36 Scoota G

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Posted 15 April 2011 - 04:07 PM

Just fitted a 1 inch master cylinder and wondering how others have hooked them up as the rear brake reservoir is the one closest to the firewall which is the other way around on the stock 7/8.

#37 neRok

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Posted 15 April 2011 - 04:37 PM

just carefully bend the lines to suit. i did it on my 260z and also had to do similar on my patrol and havent had a break yet, just do it nice and slow i guess.

#38 sco_aus

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Posted 15 April 2011 - 08:33 PM

Strange, both of my reservoirs were the same size on my 1" MC from memory.  Either way, still seems to hold a fair bit of fluid.

#39 Scoota G

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Posted 15 April 2011 - 08:35 PM

Strange, both of my reservoirs were the same size on my 1" MC from memory.  Either way, still seems to hold a fair bit of fluid.

Yes mine too but they are marked differently to the stock one, ipso facto.

#40 sco_aus

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Posted 15 April 2011 - 08:53 PM

So would that effect the braking?  Surely not?

As you can no doubt tell, brakes are not my forte lol





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