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Radio cuts out at over 2000 rpms ??


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#1 kobes

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Posted 16 December 2010 - 12:50 AM

hey guys, Hopefully some-one can help

Just installed a stereo purchased from MSA in america, it is a retro style 260z one. Now i have spent a few years in my teens working as a radio installer, so pretty confident it is all hooked up right from the wiring side.

However, when took it for a drive today the radio cuts out whenever i go over 2000 rpms. It will turn back on when i go back down??

At idle you can play it for as long and as loud as you like.

I have just installed a new alternaternater as well is the only other thing i can think of as important.


So Far the only solutions i can think of are

1. The radio is farked ( i can test by removing and hooking up in my ford and trying )
2. Some thing is wrong with the alternaternator putting out to many volts as the revs go up ( not sure how to check, but i think i could put a altermeter acroos the battery and ive her some revs to see if going above 14.4??? )

3. I have messed up somewhere hooking it up ( unlikely but possible)

apart from that i am out of ideas, hopein some input will help.

The only other thing that has changed after installling alternator on uage in dash the needle now goes right up to (plus 60) whenever giving it some gas... not sure if this is normal.


Kobes

#2 Scoota G

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Posted 16 December 2010 - 05:31 AM

So it sounds like the radio cuts out if it gets too much power. I'm thinkin the alternator is at fault as my stereo cuts out when i have to many systems on at idle (i run a 120 amp Holden item)

I think you can get those little square boxes that stop the stereo getting to much power, i think i have one here.

#3 RB30X

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Posted 16 December 2010 - 07:01 AM

You're way off track scoot. He's actually driving so fast the radio signal just can't catch up.

#4 Scoota G

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Posted 16 December 2010 - 07:30 AM

Ah then it's a malfunctioning Flux Capacitor then.

#5 luvemfast

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Posted 16 December 2010 - 10:21 AM

You're both way off.
This car has triples right?
Everyone, including radios, thinks that triples are the best sound in the world  ;D

#6 kobes

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Posted 16 December 2010 - 11:10 AM

Ah then it's a malfunctioning Flux Capacitor then.


:) I actually googled flux Capacitor ( not sure i should admit this)

You're both way off.
This car has triples right?
Everyone, including radios, thinks that triples are the best sound in the world  ;D


Can't Argue with that logic, I should be happy, whenever the triples sing, the stereo kindly shuts off.





#7 benny

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Posted 16 December 2010 - 11:24 AM

:) I actually googled flux Capacitor ( not sure i should admit this)


you poor man!! obviously lived a deprived life!! ;)

#8 Six_Shooter

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Posted 16 December 2010 - 01:10 PM

Check the voltage, I'd bet dollars to buttons that the alternator is either under charging or overcharging, once the RPM rises enough.

I'd have to say overcharging, looking at this thread and your other thread, where I think I also suggested to check the charge voltage..... Hmmm....

#9 RB30X

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Posted 16 December 2010 - 02:02 PM

Everyone, including radios, thinks that triples are the best sound in the world  ;D


Ahh, can't believe I missed that.

Glad we could solve yet another problem for you mate.

Its just a service we here at AusZ like to offer free of charge.

#10 kobes

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Posted 16 December 2010 - 08:53 PM

Check the voltage, I'd bet dollars to buttons that the alternator is either under charging or overcharging, once the RPM rises enough.

I'd have to say overcharging, looking at this thread and your other thread, where I think I also suggested to check the charge voltage..... Hmmm....


Ok, Possibly later than what i should have, put the volt meter on the battery.

when car not started = 12.7v
at idle ( approx 600rpms) = 14.4v
at 800rpms = 15.5v
at 900rpms = 17.2 v
at 1'000 rpms = 17.9v
at 2'000 rpms = 18.24v


So I guess it fair to say that yes the alternator is overcharing the system.

The alternator the auto electrician installed is a rxa011.

Will drive it down tomorrow and see what is going on with him.

#11 Whittie

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Posted 16 December 2010 - 09:15 PM

"ALTERNATOR REMANUFACTURED HITACHI TYPE OEX to SUIT DATSUN 1200, 120Y, 180B With external type Regulator."

Ask Rev, but I'd say either you don't have an external regulator or it's busted.

#12 mtopxsecret6

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Posted 18 December 2010 - 02:32 PM

sounds like regulator to me, not alternator.

#13 kobes

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Posted 18 December 2010 - 07:38 PM

sounds like regulator to me, not alternator.


Spot on, it was the regulator. So due to need over research time have ordered one in for $75 bucks, looks easy enough to hook in, just plug and screw.

Hopefully that will fix,

In the mean time have unpluged the alternator, have figured it better to run just off battery than have the alternator overcharging the system

#14 Whittie

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Posted 18 December 2010 - 08:24 PM

I paid $90 for mine fitted, so 75 sounds about right. Dead easy to do, the hard bit is adjusting it to the right voltage.

Better again is don't drive the car till it's fixed. Overcharging is not good, but lead-acid batteries are not designed to be deep-cycled, and you don't want to kill a battery if you can avoid it, otherwise it's a premature another $150 for a battery. If you must, don't drive far and keep it on charge when you're not driving to keep the battery charged fully.

#15 kobes

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Posted 18 December 2010 - 09:40 PM

thanks whittie,

Not planning on driving it, but thanks for the tips.

However you have me at a head scratch moment, you mentioned that it was adjustable? I presumed the regulator would come preset?

any ideas on the method use to ummm tune them in ?

#16 Scoota G

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Posted 18 December 2010 - 11:10 PM

Just take the two screws off the cover and there be only one in there that you can adjust. Garrrrrr. Gawd we need a Pirate Smiley.  8)

#17 kobes

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Posted 18 December 2010 - 11:38 PM

Just take the two screws off the cover and there be only one in there that you can adjust. Garrrrrr. Gawd we need a Pirate Smiley.  8)


Just to be the dumbarse ( no really it might help some-one else that is reading but embarrised to ask )

I would adjust it so that it is giving out around 14V at 2000 rpms does this sound correct?

#18 Scoota G

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Posted 19 December 2010 - 12:32 AM

Just to be the dumbarse ( no really it might help some-one else that is reading but embarrised to ask )

I would adjust it so that it is giving out around 14V at 2000 rpms does this sound correct?


As i said to dale  "it's in the doing" just give it a twist and see what happens. Lucky we don't work for NASA hey? One way will bee up the other - - - - down.

#19 dazzed

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Posted 19 December 2010 - 09:35 AM

Ah then it's a malfunctioning Flux Capacitor then.

you have hit the nail on the nail on head or nearly , as its  not a faulty flux capacitor but lack of them as often these are removed for no real reason ,very common problem ,can also affect electric fuel pump and wiper control, cheers.

#20 kobes

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Posted 21 December 2010 - 01:26 AM

I paid $90 for mine fitted, so 75 sounds about right. Dead easy to do, the hard bit is adjusting it to the right voltage.

Better again is don't drive the car till it's fixed. Overcharging is not good, but lead-acid batteries are not designed to be deep-cycled, and you don't want to kill a battery if you can avoid it, otherwise it's a premature another $150 for a battery. If you must, don't drive far and keep it on charge when you're not driving to keep the battery charged fully.


Thanks whittie.

Just for an update, the Regulator arrived, and had no probs installing it 

The radio now  does not now cut off at any rev's

However you are right about the adjustment being needed. When I put the tester on the battery, At idle it was fine at 13.3 V, However Still is spiking up to 17v @ 3000 rpms. ( even thou it not affect radio anymore) so have dissconected from alternator again and going to give the battery a full charge with battery charger and try again tommorow. Iam kinda hoping that it was just still going that high as battery needed a bit of a charge.

If that does not work, I will follow your advise and try and throttle back the adjustment.




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