Jump to content


Photo

Skipz Snail Project


  • Please log in to reply
61 replies to this topic

#41 Brabham

Brabham

    The 1000+ club

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,026 posts
  • Location:NSW - The Police State

Posted 09 June 2014 - 01:33 AM

No flares!  :'( I reckon in 5-10 years time everyone will want to put their cars back to original as the values increase and so many have now been cut for flares. Putting the rear back to original is very tricky as it is a double panel and getting it to look like it was never cut requires the work of a master.

Just my 2 cents worth, Nat's work looks amazing though  :)

#42 PB260Z

PB260Z

    Peter (PB)

  • Moderators
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 3,237 posts
  • Location:Northern Sydney
  • Tagline:Must stop buying new toys for the workshop.

Posted 09 June 2014 - 09:26 AM

No flares!  :'( I reckon in 5-10 years time everyone will want to put their cars back to original as the values increase and so many have now been cut for flares. Putting the rear back to original is very tricky as it is a double panel and getting it to look like it was never cut requires the work of a master.

Just my 2 cents worth, Nat's work looks amazing though  :)


+ 1, but it is your car, so do what you really want  :)

#43 skipz

skipz

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 112 posts
  • Location:Sydney

Posted 05 July 2014 - 12:19 PM

Update on body work.
Nat has pretty much finished the body to what I'm after.  Must say, its looking good.  There are a few minor things left to do on the exterior but nothing major (i.e. drilling badge and mirror holes).  The door locks, boot lock, and fuel flap locks have been shaved.  The aim being to deter thieves screw driving the locks open (I suppose instead they'll go in through the windows instead now...). The power looks will allow access.  The ISIS programming I've requested allows emergency entry if needed.

So I'll soon retrieve the body for remaining custom brackets (e.g. ISIS mounting locations, HVAC hole positioning, seat belt retractor mounts etc).  Lost of minor interior stuff to go, but it'll then be ready for paint. 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 41730_bfad81c126ba5fe28cb2bde7fbc80882dba96546.jpg
  • 41728_8b1907ba718c970af525600310fed3c1d96945a7.jpg
  • 41726_b598599752a5dc6d8124db80f1e2b46196a6ec66.jpg
  • 41724_8cba4271d2ca2479ba6c116547c3e14e7d242c74.jpg


#44 skipz

skipz

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 112 posts
  • Location:Sydney

Posted 05 July 2014 - 12:22 PM

More pics.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 41736_09ee89467a218a6577548c6c97c797a224df9d65.jpg
  • 41734_bbb8ba89493a67eb0a2edd1dbcd58744bbde593b.jpg
  • 41732_b1ce81f7f99441f402afa6b98400ef7f25238464.jpg


#45 dat240z

dat240z

    The 1000+ club

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,110 posts
  • Location:Canberra
  • Tagline:RB25det powered 240z - willwoods - coils - engineered

Posted 05 July 2014 - 12:25 PM

Oh man, that looks awesome.....Clean and smooth:)

Well done

Ps, whered you get your front bar from? Otomoto??

#46 skipz

skipz

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 112 posts
  • Location:Sydney

Posted 05 July 2014 - 12:29 PM

Work on the dash has continued after doing the side vents.  I noticed the dash had minor surface rust, so thought it'd worth a bit of a clean up.  So I separated out the frame, bit of wire brush cleanup, prime and topcoat.  The dash is back together with the frame.  Its now ready to be re-skinned, which will go off shortly.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 41744_da1da7048895097af8dcb7c1cee407f016e59da6.jpg
  • 41742_c1248ec59c9c9e76c3d5fe3aa42f0d08141cfb37.jpg
  • 41740_9a071caeac393b826ceb7a998d51d82d6a1ba527.jpg
  • 41738_7c6c213800af31b8a243c64299bafa0413cf66c5.jpg


#47 gav240z

gav240z

    Administrator

  • Administrators
  • 12,389 posts
  • Website:http://www.viczcar.com
  • Location:Sydney NSW
  • Tagline:Jack of all trades, master of none.

Posted 05 July 2014 - 12:34 PM

Awesome and I see you got yourself a Fairlady Z grille too!

Must be happy now, I remember when it was sitting in your garage. A little annoyed with it. ;)

#48 skipz

skipz

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 112 posts
  • Location:Sydney

Posted 05 July 2014 - 12:36 PM

I've also tackled the centre console.  It was almost split in two.  So following the tutorial, I've plastic welded it together, fiberglass over top, filler to smooth it all out and then a few coats with bed liner.  Finally a slight rub back and a satin top coat.  Came up pretty good and I'm happy with the results.  Granted its not the original look, its now in much better condition than it was.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 41752_950c3e05394e690708c6c6a244345051609f5265.jpg
  • 41750_497ff2e509c1f95989fa792911ddeff623d3ca68.jpg
  • 41748_c272c495f18b0d221a91bf3a9cbc3226eb1ec65d.jpg
  • 41746_1898662544779fe8b3e779f4ead83fd434863d17.jpg


#49 skipz

skipz

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 112 posts
  • Location:Sydney

Posted 05 July 2014 - 12:54 PM

And now for some customisation.  The ISIS programming I've requested should allow for window options of up, down, express up, and express down.  Of course power door locks are needed as well.  I like the VW window switches in the style and function, particularly as they have the red illumination (to go with the white gauge dials, red pointers, with red switch illumination).  So I'm going to see if I can somehow adopt the switches to the ISIS system.  ISIS closes to ground for the switches.  Easy enough.  But I also have the illumination which requires power.  Looking at the circuit boards I not 100% sure that I can exactly adopt the switches - even with a bit of rewire.  So I may be looking at custom circuit boards for each switch.  I've never done that before, but it should be an interesting learning experience. 

One good thing about the VW switches is you can easily see that there are 4 positions for each window switch - which directly ties in with the express up/down plans.  I'll also look to make a custom panel that sits where the stock ash tray would go.  I'm not sure I'd have room for the back of the switches to hide them under the ashtray and the ash tray is not as tight a fit as I'd like, so a custom panel could tidy things up nicely.

Also SWMBO has a thing for cup holders... so I might try to fit a VW slide out cup holder into a custom heater panel I've got planned (that'll incorporate the Vintage Air switches).  Will have to see how that works out in CAD first.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 41760_a6545a8cbb87099a22485e4f14577806570a7e70.jpg
  • 41758_d210cfab546c0657da67f26e972f00d2ccec44ec.jpg
  • 41756_efdd7519e3cd24d72a9d8fc25da72ab76d96d7d7.jpg
  • 41754_55b9517043532696af16b564946d48176540b421.jpg


#50 skipz

skipz

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 112 posts
  • Location:Sydney

Posted 05 July 2014 - 12:59 PM

Ps, whered you get your front bar from? Otomoto??


Yup, the air dam is from Otomoto.  Its a nice product, but sits a bit funny.  For my car (I'm not sure if this has to do with previous damage or not), if you line up the air dam with the bumper bar as intended, it sits high in the middle and doesn't look quite right.  I'm not sure if thats how its meant to be or not.  So Nat had to intentionally aligned it slightly off in order to have it sit flat.  I think it looks better that way than with the middle curved up a bit.  You will notice there are quite a few gaps with the fairlady grille.  I may have some fibreglass play and see if a bit of reinforcement and tweaking is worthwhile.  It may not look as bad with the stock grille.

#51 skipz

skipz

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 112 posts
  • Location:Sydney

Posted 05 July 2014 - 01:04 PM

Awesome and I see you got yourself a Fairlady Z grille too!
Must be happy now


Yeah Gav.  Quite excited with the progress.  Has me out of pocket a bit, but well worth it in terms of just advancing the build and the quality of work.
The grille is the MSA reproduction.  Its a bit flimsy and of course needs tweaking to fit right.  I've still got the stock grille as an option if I eventually choose to revert (which needs a bit of straightening and tidy up).

#52 skipz

skipz

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 112 posts
  • Location:Sydney

Posted 15 November 2015 - 04:38 PM

Haven't done much in the past year (travelling round aust instead).  But thought I'd put up a few pics up of the little that I have done.  Hope to get going again now that I'm back in the garage.

 

Mastercell under the centre console, replacing fuse box.  New mounts added to suit

mastercell_console.jpg

 

Powercell in the rear, with wiring console done for rear lights & fuel pump.

powercell_rear.jpg

P1170928.jpg

P1170929.jpg

 

Engine with 71C test fit

PA040872.jpg

 

Suspension rebuild begins

PB140957.jpg

PB140960.jpg


Edited by skipz, 15 November 2015 - 04:38 PM.

  • gav240z and mspecr like this

#53 skipz

skipz

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 112 posts
  • Location:Sydney

Posted 05 June 2016 - 05:56 PM

Bit of work on suspension. 

DSC04626.JPG

DSC04629.JPG

 

A/C & heater lines at firewall

DSC04628.JPG



#54 skipz

skipz

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 112 posts
  • Location:Sydney

Posted 05 June 2016 - 06:18 PM

Been trying to finish "modules".  So have been focussing on the dash and suspension. My goal with the whole car is subtle modernising. So the dash gets impacted by that goal. Plodding along, the gauges and wiring is now done. Glove box is done.  Just need to put in the air ducting then the dash is done.  Pics ...

DSC04617.JPG DSC04634.JPG  

 

Gauges are speedhut, with led warning lights on both the tach and speedo.  Those warning lights will tie into the wiring harness or ECU .... when I get there. The hazard switch and trunk release is in place of the original hazard and cig socket. 

DSC04619.JPG  DSC04616.JPG  DSC04620.JPG  DSC04622.JPG  DSC04624.JPG  DSC04618.JPG

 

I've moved the cig socket to the glove box, as well as a USB and 3.5mm plug to tie in with the retrosound unit I'll be putting in.  Glove box was fibreglassedv from an MDF & flow coat mould. Done in black gel coat with a final black texture spray on the inside (because I didn't get the gel coat finish to my liking).

DSC04632.JPG  DSC04633.JPG

 

I remade the gauge bezels, because I didn't like the way the originals looked when the 'glass' is removed.  So I modified an original bezel, cast it and moulded some new ones that mate directly with the speedhut gauges.  (a little home jobby soda blast to get the right surface finish - too glossy and they reflect the gauges too much, spray paint didn't suit - and in the end they came up nice).  New bezels are talc filled PU - rigid enough in the end.

20160213_163355.jpg  20160211_182424.jpg  20160213_163503.jpg


  • gav240z, Cliff and mspecr like this

#55 skipz

skipz

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 112 posts
  • Location:Sydney

Posted 05 June 2016 - 06:22 PM

Stumbled across these old pics that I don't think I've posted, but it gives you an idea of interior direction and how things are fitting.

 

P8030855.JPG  P8030856.JPG  P8030857.JPG

 

 



#56 skipz

skipz

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 112 posts
  • Location:Sydney

Posted 06 August 2016 - 01:22 PM

I've been working on the fuel door lately.  Since the lock is shaved, I need to get the remote open working.  Finished that today. Here's how I did it for the record.

 

DSC04825.JPG

 

The fuel door was separated from the hinge - a little bit of rust in there between panels, so a little touch up was needed.  I then built a frame to reinforce the fuel door given you now need to push it in place (i.e. extra loading on that panel so it gets reinforced).  This is akin to the approach modern car fuel doors have taken.  I was going to adapt another cars fuel door reinforcement, but ended up just making my own. That reinforcing member was reattached to the hinge mechanism. 

 

DSC04833.JPG

 

The original spring was removed because it contradicts the new function of the fuel door.  That spring aims to keep the door shut when folded against the body - whereas I needed the door to be free to be sprung open.  A spring from a Holden (?  can't remember - there's tons of different options for door springs in the junkyard) was adapted to the hinge mounting plate.  The one I used, just fit in the end in the body cavity - a tight fit. I'm sure there would be a way of making the whole spring mechanism more compact.

 

DSC04834.JPG

 

A Nissan catch was adapted to the body cavity. 

 

DSC04829.JPG

 

A Great Wall lever was adapted to the cabin, just under the seat.  Again, multiple options available from the junk yard - this one just happen to be the cleanest, without scratches etc. So a little adapter plate was welded to the floor.  Because I wanted the mechanism covered when the interior is all done, I bend up some plastic sheet to snap onto the adapter plate, which essentially just covers the lever mechanism. 

 

DSC04831.JPG DSC04826.JPG

 

The cabling was a mash of both the Great Wall cable (because I needed the lever end to mate with the lever) and the Nissan cable (so the catch end could be used) and shortened to suit.  So one end of the cable needed to have the solder tip end put back on to work the catch.  Turned up a stainless rod on the lathe with the help of a mate, and we silver soldered that to the end of the cable.

 

The opening spring can be "tuned" (i.e. bend it a little) to get the appropriate fuel door opening when the lever is pulled. 

 

DSC04832.JPG

 

All I need to do know if make a rubber stopper to limit the travel of the fuel door and also stop it from freely swinging closed when refuelling.  So, a little mould, cast some silicone... shouldn't be too hard.

 

Putting it all together... seems to work well.  Happy with the result.

https://www.youtube....h?v=Bhmnhbs9-D8


  • gav240z, 260DET and CBR Jeff like this

#57 skipz

skipz

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 112 posts
  • Location:Sydney

Posted 22 August 2016 - 06:17 PM

Currently tackling wiring up behind the dash... preview pic:

 

DSC04849.JPG

 

I've gone with midi fuses to each power cell rather than mega fuses to reduce underdash bulk. They mount on plate, alongside the Haltech EMS, using mounting points previously for the original heater unit fresh/recirc air box (which is now abandoned because of the Vintage Air unit going in). I'm trying to keep this as neat as I can and hidden - trying to have it so there are only a few subtle hints in the end that the electrical system is new/upgraded.  It may well be easier to have all this in the engine bay... meh.

 

So now I have all the power lines into the 3x individual PowerCells of the InfinityBox system run, terminated and tied.  I'll then need to sort out the CAN cable, then the grounding, then the individual loads, then the switches, then the battery isolator ("inReserve") and so on and so on and so on.  This InfinityBox system is quite straight forward, but rather than one or two big looms, you end up with many small ones.  The trouble is having the foresight of how everything packs together - which occasionally means I'm doing things two sometimes three times over (each time being a little better, and a little more robust).  All part of the journey.



#58 260DET

260DET

    The 2000+ club

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,152 posts
  • Location:Warwick
  • Tagline:Tribal Elder

Posted 22 August 2016 - 07:35 PM

Some brilliant work being done here, I won't pretend to understand what is going on in the post above though :)



#59 d3c0y

d3c0y

    The 2000+ club

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,847 posts
  • Website:http://garagesanmaru.com
  • Location:Brisbane
  • Tagline:Forum Jerk

Posted 23 August 2016 - 06:38 PM

No flares!  : I reckon in 5-10 years time everyone will want to put their cars back to original as the values increase and so many have now been cut for flares. Putting the rear back to original is very tricky as it is a double panel and getting it to look like it was never cut requires the work of a master.

 

People were saying that 5 - 10 years ago too.



#60 skipz

skipz

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 112 posts
  • Location:Sydney

Posted 01 October 2016 - 01:06 PM

Ooo...wheels. Was hesitating on getting these, but quite happy with them now that they are in hand.  Nothing like seeing wheels back in place to put a smile on  ^-^  
DSC04854.JPG
DSC04856.JPG
DSC04850.JPG
(no idea how to rotate that pic)
 
So having sorted the main fuse and ECU locations, the mounts and powercell wiring, I realised I need to finalise the positioning of the evaporator and the A/C lines before I get too flat out into wiring tie down.  So I'm on to that again.  I've decided to redo the previous evaporator mount and ducting with the aim of doing it a bit cleaner and of less weight... while shifting it a bit to the passenger side for a bit more clearance with the power steering motor.  
 
The rough plan - evaporator/fan mount and positioning, A/C and heater lines inside the cabin, evaporator drainage hose path, wiring for evaporator, wiring path for the powercells behind the evaporator, then onto the wiring in front of the evaporator to the mastercell.  And then, and then, and then...
 
No pics yet... I'll eventually post an explanation of how this is all piecing together, once I actually have it done.  A bit hard to articulate without any pics. Soon...
 
A little video of making the custom speedhut bezels.

  • gav240z and 260DET like this




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users