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Skipz Snail Project


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#21 skipz

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Posted 02 September 2013 - 12:47 PM

So I started cracking on. 

Pulled the door skins off to find more rust.  I've let them sit for now while I takle other things - like the rear repair.  Again I was suprised how well the bog was hiding it all.  The rear I had no idea, and when buying the car thought I'd managed to get one without rust there.  School boy error.  You could easily poke a screw driver through some of the sectoins.  So, out it came, and in goes the new bit.  I don't have a pic of it complete, but  here some in progress pics.  The rear repair is all complete now.

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#22 skipz

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Posted 02 September 2013 - 12:58 PM

This was all prior to a rotisserie.  So I didn't tackle anything underneath at this point.  Instead I decided to let rest the rust repairs and attempt to fit the vintage air heater unit that I thought would go in no issue.  Again, wrong... for what I wanted.  These units have the motor on the right hand side - which would be fine if we were driving LHD.  It's also not that big a deal for RHD, but of course I feel the need to electric power steering.  The problem comes in that the motor for the EPAS needed to be rotated toward the centre of the car to have it most hidden (again they seem naturally oriented for LHD cars).  So, the motor of the EPAS and the Vintage Air unit clash.  To fit them both with the motors together meant that the VA unit was shifted quite significantly to the left.  Hence we have fairly significant mismatch of the heater hoses behind the dash.  So I had to rotate the VA unit with the motor on the left.

Unfortunalely having the motor on the left, means that the outlets on top of the VA unit have virtually no room for the dash hoses to connect to (the wiper motor gully - if I can call it that - gets in the way).  Pulling the VA unit out to allow hose clearance, meant I'd have dash panel issues.  So I gave this a go - a custom 'ducting relocation unit'.  Or whatever you'd like to call it!  Basically just shifting the duct outlets on the VA unit to a more manageable location.

A little cut, bend, weld and success.  I made a frame to house the ducting portion and the VA unit such that I can fit this in no time flat - its literally a bolt in fitment.  The heater and A/C lines (and any body wiring) have plenty of space behind the unit, so they will fit all nice (still to be done).  A little Por15 on the inside will stop any rust. 

Its more weight than I originally envisaged, but I don't think its any heavier than the stock unit.  Pics:

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#23 skipz

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Posted 02 September 2013 - 01:06 PM

Next came the rotissery and some more body work.

I was unhappy with the previous 'professional' repair work, particularly on the frame rails, floor and battery tray area.  It was shocking!  Hack, chop, silicone over the top to stop rust, and she'll be right mate!  That of course let to some minor issues i.e. rust.  And I had plans to put in the Bad Dog rails.  So out it came.  Chopped it all out, a bit of bend and weld and it seemed to come out okay.  I'm no panel beating expert - in fact, this was really my first go at compound curves and bends.  My original panel wasn't quite large enough, which led to a second patch job under the battery tray.  That let to another patch job since the original metal was thin and I just blew through too much when welding.  So, its not the pristine job I was hoping for, but good enough.  It all came together when the floor went in.

Pics:

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#24 MyEnquiringMind

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Posted 02 September 2013 - 01:10 PM

Hi skipz,

keep us up to date on the ISIS... I was checking out the smartwire and would like to know what you think of both the ISIS/Smartwire as a means of wiring your car up...

http://www.racepaksmartwire.com/

Cheers,

Jarrod.

#25 skipz

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Posted 02 September 2013 - 01:13 PM

On to the floor, following on from the battery firewal area.  The floor was generally not in too bad condition, especially toward the seat mounts.  But the front of the floor had rust holes in it.  Also the repair at the end of the frame rail was again poorly executed and showing signs of rust.  So out it all came. 

New floor went in along with the Bad Dog rails (which hopefully won't rust now, given a lovely coating of POR15 on the inside).  Anyhow, finished that on the weekend.  Again, not as pristine as I hoped, but it needed some beating to get into place and align with the seat rails. 

Pics:

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#26 skipz

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Posted 02 September 2013 - 01:21 PM

keep us up to date on the ISIS...


Will definitely.  I'm still keen to go down this route with the ISIS.  I think it'll tie in nicely with the power everything, and security system.  I have started a wiring diagram, but its yet to be finished.  Here it is so far (see pics - not sure if the jpegs will be visible or not) just in case anybody wants to view it (and correct anything!).  I'll post up the final version once done for anyone elses reference that wants to follow.  I'll also check out the smartwire - wasn't aware of it.  Aim is to finish the body work and then jump onto this.

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#27 skipz

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Posted 02 September 2013 - 01:25 PM

Final post for today.

When doing the battery firewall area I had to remake the battery tray.  The original one was about 85% rusted away to nothing, and so previous body works had simply tacked on a flat piece of sheet.  My intent here was to remake a battery tray similar to the original.  Again, I'm no panel expert, so after a few failed attempts I gave up and ended up with the one below.  Realising that you'd never be able to paint underneath (since the tray was solid), I gave it a customary treatment of POR15 and seam sealer.  So hopefully there will never be any problems here (at least for a number of years!).

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#28 MyEnquiringMind

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Posted 02 September 2013 - 01:59 PM

great work skipz... love the professional wiring diagrams etc... (resolution is unforunately lost in .jpg format)... I am looking forward to hearing how this all went together for you...

Cheers, J

#29 skipz

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Posted 03 May 2014 - 05:40 PM

After finishing the floor, rails and battery area, I was keen to start on the sills.  Which were ordered with dog leg panels and arrived a few weeks later.  While waiting for those parts however, I got sidetracked upgrading my 4wd to a decent touring spec and going on a few adventures.  6 months later the realisation hit that I hadn't touched the zed in a long time.  That of course has been a typical story - a few months on, many months off to contemplate or tickle other projects.  So in order to speed things up I've taken it off the rotisserie and thrown money at it!  Off to Nat in Gladesville she goes!  That was about 2-3 weeks ago now...

I touched base with Nat today and he's got the sills in, repairs to the rain channel above the quarter window, rear hatch area and various rust touch ups.  Progress!  ;D

While Nat was attacking that, I've been tending to the inner door frame.  I've no pics to show as its hard to see the detail, however I ended up replacing a fair portion of the bottom of the frame that was full of tinworm, on both doors.  They've now gone to Nat to put the skins on, and for panels to start lining up.

I'll now shift on to the seats, centre console (which is barely holding together), dash (gauge fitting) etc on the parts still left in the garage.

The ISIS wiring map is now about 95% complete.  Now I'm just ensuring that the various systems will work together (i.e. progressing through the Vintage Air unit and Haltech EMS) and that the wiring works ... at least, on paper.

I've also got a S14 gearbox mated to an L bellhousing, spare to the 71B original.  The electrical speed sensor from the S14 box will tie in nicely with the speedhut gauges.  I'll, at some point here, send it to get rebuilt and ensure it's in good working order.  I've also had the quaife torsen sitting around for a couple years.  Again, that will need to get installed into the diff during its rebuild.  I've stuck with the R180 and will mate it to a pair of Wolf Creek CV's - again, that have been sitting for years gathering dust.  Probably 2 years ago now I picked up an L28 with P90 head.  So I have options of mixing and matching, or using one or the other of the original L24 or L28.  I figure the building blocks are there... with it all really just parts, and the option to go restore or modify, its really time to start locking in direction.  So although physical progress has been slow, I think its fair to say that I've been happily throwing dollars in the void, so that the garage its a place of dust gathering parts.    :)

I am constantly debating my suspension setup. :-\ I've had the original struts finished for some time, with springs, sway bar etc at the ready, gathering dust waiting to be reinstalled.  However, my mind drifts to adjustability and ease of tweaking in the future (whatever that may bring) ...  Stop faffing, I tell myself.

#30 gav240z

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Posted 03 May 2014 - 06:42 PM

Good to hear it's moving along mate. If you decide the P90 isn't your thing let me know? I've still got the engine hoist be sure to yell if you need it back soon? It looks like I may not be doing the TAFE course due to enrolling too late and missing my place eeek, so might be best to focus on my engine for now and come back to bodywork next semester.

#31 fly-s30

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Posted 04 May 2014 - 12:58 AM

Great work and your plans to aim for a modern rebuild is great to bring the old girl in line with todays standards of outfit and electrical intergration.
Hats off on the CAD of the gauge in your earlier posts. How did this go?
Kudos
Darius

#32 skipz

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Posted 04 May 2014 - 06:33 PM

Darius,
The CAD went fine until I realised that the plan was a bit cost prohibitive.  From recollection I'd priced out a 3D print from the CAD and it was amply more than the gauge itself.  Unfortunately the materials at work aren't quite what I need either (and they frown on personal use).  I'd also found that speedhut can install led's in the gauge of any colour (with symbols if needed) - which eliminated my need for a way to provide dash lights.  So that all was put on hold and I'll just fab up some mounts instead, as I've had the gauges further customised.  The cash and CAD work will go toward a custom heater control panel - i.e. original panel styling ques but integrating the vintage air controls (modded a bit), various switches and probably a retrosound unit (to give it an old/new look).

Gav,
No worries on the crane.  I'll likely touch base in the next month or so as a mate will need it to help move his anvil about.  Re the P90, you'll be the first I touch base with, but only if the engine plans change  ;)

#33 skipz

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Posted 05 June 2014 - 09:46 PM

Quick update - I've just placed an order for the ISIS system.  Jay was good to deal with and most of what I was after could be achieved.  So some of the features are:
+ ISIS provides security via the remote key fob.  Doors will lock, windows will go up and ignition and EMS is locked once security is activated.
+ power windows have the option of express down (i.e. one push full down).
+ power door locks, and power window control with current limiting
+ Interior foot well likes come slowly fade once doors are closed = theatre dimming ooOOoo
+ Recirc / Fresh Air actuator control tied in with the vintage air system
+ low battery cut out switch with automatic monitoring (I'll always be able to start the car if the battery gets worn down by lights etc)
+ in cabin piezo siren if security is on and doors or trunk opens.  (i.e. deafen thief if they try anything)
+ the key fob can (potentially) control any of it.  I'll be able to put up/down the windows remotely, turn the headlights on, honk the horn etc etc, all remotely.  toys!


Wiring diagrams are still being refined, but here's a link for anyone interested. [size=78%]https://drive.google...dit?usp=sharing[/size]


On other news, I've got the front spoiler and flares thanks to Ben @ Otomoto.  Also have now a pair of new shiny bumpers.


I've also ordered a retrosound audio head unit for that older look.  I've also got an internal antenna - which I'll test first - as my current thinking is to tie in the antenna with the shaving of all external locks.


Seats have been recovered with new foam and leather.  As usual, all parts completely stripped down, wire brushed and painted. 

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#34 skipz

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Posted 05 June 2014 - 09:57 PM

Since the seats are done I've started on the dash tear down and rebuild.  Thought I'd post some pics of the dash end vent redo - the install of the z store's end vent reproduction pieces.  I tried to clean up the originals but they just would not get back their luster. You can separate the housings holding the end vents by gently prying them apart - I used a steel rule and light persuasion.  The outer cases are held in with three plastic welds.  You end up cracking those at the weld but retain the posts that align the two pieces together.  I was surprised at how good the original inner felt looked after removing 40 years of dust.  However, putting in the new end vents, they were a little loose.  So I glued in a small sliver of really thin t-shirt material.  Tightened those vents right up - perhaps a bit tight, but much better than having them loose and not holding position.

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#35 PB260Z

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Posted 06 June 2014 - 08:26 AM

Gidday Skipz

Your build is looking great some fantastic work being done.
The ISIS system has got my attention I will be very keen to see how it works out for you.

Keep the updates coming.

Cheers

PB


#36 skipz

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Posted 07 June 2014 - 02:49 PM

I went to see Nat today and check on body progress.  Things are really progressing quickly.  All panels are in, primed and smoothing is underway.  We also mock fitted the flares.  I like the look yet am quite torn as to cutting the guards.  We discussed ways to neatly put the flares on, and what alternate options (e.g. metal flares) would be.  I've still yet to make a decision on whether or not to put on the flares.

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#37 dat240z

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Posted 07 June 2014 - 03:10 PM

Looking good mate! You must be stoked to see some quality progress....

#38 gav240z

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Posted 07 June 2014 - 05:44 PM

I guess if you change your mind on flares you can always put standard guards back in. There is reproduction rear wheel arch panels and fronts can be changed easily. Just paint then so depends on how easy your colour will be to match.

#39 skipz

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Posted 08 June 2014 - 10:51 AM

Yeah its six of one, half a dozen the other really.  Its an emotive decision you justify one way or the other.
A) Flares on now - additional $ for where Nat is currently.  Potentially wish to go back to original at a later date.  Bit of cutting, welding, and paint to re-graft the original arches.
B) Flares later - no additional $ now.  Get to run the car with original flares, potentially desire flares later.  Bit of cutting, welding and paint to put the flares on.  Probably an easier graft job than the alternate option.

B) is the safer and cheaper long term option (i.e. you don't spend twice). The width of the wheels with flares is not necessary for what I'm doing - But A) gives the look. 

The car will likely end up looking like either one of these two.  I'll undoubtedly debate this with myself for a bit longer... :-\

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#40 fly-s30

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Posted 08 June 2014 - 11:51 AM

To flare, or not to flare; that is the question...




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