L28 block brace/girdle
Posted 16 November 2010 - 10:06 PM
I have borrowed one that I am going to measure and model in CAD, then get them laser cut.
Obviously the more there are the cheaper it will be.
They need some work to fit them. Spacers needed to the mains, longer mains bolts, drilling and tapping into the block, open up through holes and countersink then screw it on.
Or is there already someone supplying them locally?
Thoughts and interest,
Posted 17 November 2010 - 05:00 AM
NDSOC life member Neil Cartledge (NEC Engineering) was making girdles over 20 years ago
I think is retired now a works from home in Mt Waverly
PM me for his details
Posted 17 November 2010 - 07:04 AM
Posted 17 November 2010 - 08:34 AM
I was wondering if you had one Peter, meant to ask you last night but you distracted me with your build specs
Posted 17 November 2010 - 03:14 PM
Posted 17 November 2010 - 03:34 PM
No idea at the moment.
what sort of cost do you think the end product will be
Still modelling it up, then will get quotes.
Posted 18 November 2010 - 12:12 PM
Will plot it at 1:1 scale and take it home to check size, position and dimensioning.
So far there are only 3 guys interested.
2. Peter mac
Gareth, you're building a strong motor, you should consider this. Actually, anyone building a strong motot should!
Posted 18 November 2010 - 06:21 PM
Posted 18 November 2010 - 06:31 PM
Posted 20 November 2010 - 09:21 PM
Posted 20 November 2010 - 11:12 PM
Posted 21 November 2010 - 12:29 AM
My thoughts are that it will brace and stiffen the block, reducing flex.
So what does a girdle do?
It also will increase the frequency of the dreaded harmonic vibration, moving it further up the rev range. Which puts less stress on the bottom end, in turn improving reliability.
It is supposed to change the whole sound of the car too.
I don't know about the big teams, but the fastest Z, back in the day, locally ran them. And then he sold them overseas. He still has the lap record (L series Z) at the Island, 20+ years on. (Even though Peter Mac has promised to beat it)
Did electromotive, BSR or any of the big race teams ever use girdles in their race cars?
Posted 21 November 2010 - 01:39 PM
Posted 21 November 2010 - 06:50 PM
a) big end studs probably won't fit this the same as bolts (at this point, shouldn't studs be used anyway?).
b) dip stick and oil pickup mods need to be made to take into consideration the added thickness of the plate. Not a biggie. Don't overfill the sump though.
c) how can you torque the allen headed bolts properly when there will need to be a gasket under both sides of the plate or will another alternate method of sealing the sump and plate be taking place?
Just wondering how they do that?
Posted 21 November 2010 - 07:50 PM
B) Drill approriate clearance hole for dipstick. Haven't looked at the pick up yet, just longer fasteners isn't it?
C)Countersunk socket screws should be used. Maybe a gasket on either side would do the job. A ball nose cutter could be run around offset from the external edge to put gasket goo in, but this would add considerable cost!
The ones I'm looking at making are much better than the one pictured IMHO.
Its using one of Neils as a template (with his permission), I have also made some mods to make a better fit.
Posted 21 November 2010 - 07:56 PM
Posted 21 November 2010 - 08:11 PM
Posted 21 November 2010 - 08:26 PM
Note that the crank holes are smaller and V shaped.
The outside holes are for the sump.
There are smaller holes (less of them too) close to them on the inside. They are to be countersink after using as a template into the block.
The 2 larger holes in between crank holes are for the mains.
Oil pick up is obvious, dipstick needs moving for F54.
Pretty much the rest are for lightening.
Looks like it will weigh about 4kg from CAD calculations. Would 6160 Alum do the job? (It would be pricey though)
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