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Urgent help needed!!! Voltage problem


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#41 kolonelklink

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Posted 30 October 2010 - 12:42 AM

getting it idling then worry about the finer details... set timing at stock, idle screw conservative 800-1000 rpm
You have 2 afm's yes? swap them and look for the same phenomenon... if it doesnt resolve with a different unit my instinct  would be to start looking for vacuum leaks (sorry my knowledge on the AFM function is very limited).
You might find it runs alot better after you work through undoing alot of the fiddling you've done trying to track down the earlier problem

Is the cam stock? A aftermarket cam would make it "lumpy" or is it missing a cylinder? change your spark plugs and photograph them!!!!!!
What colour is the smoke, how does it smell, how much is there?
(basics basics basics)

-pete

#42 Zedback

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Posted 30 October 2010 - 09:50 AM

Jesse, I have a PDF of "280-Z Electronic Fuel Injection -Theory -Troubleshooting".  Also have 1978 FSM and the 1979 wiring diagram, between these I was able to methodically diagnose and fix my 1979 280zx.  If you want a copy PM me your email address, it's about 3.8Mb.
I also highly recommend replacing it with megasquirt.  I did MS2 on mine, learn't a lot about EFI making it work and went a hell of a lot better too.
Mike

#43 Zedman240®

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Posted 30 October 2010 - 03:16 PM

There may just be a heap of unburned fuel in the engine; get it hot and hopefully that should clear all the fuel from the motor. If it still does it, start checking all the other sensors.

#44 Bigworm

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Posted 31 October 2010 - 10:04 AM

alright i have got it running fairly well now what i did was replaced a few air/vacum hoses and put a small spring on the potentiometer counter-weight to restrict how much the flap moves which sounds bad, but it works a treat. if i dont do this the flap moves too much and sends too much fuel into the engine flooding it. so if i leave the spring off and try to run it it wont start and then i pull the plugs out and there black with carbon and fuel but if i then clean them and put the spring on to restrict the flow it runs fine. im still having a bit of a play arond with the idling settings and timing as it runs nice but seems pretty gutless for some reason???
and p.s mike i have that same manua aswelll its what i have been using to diagnose this problem aswell its a really good document to have!!! but thanks anyway

#45 kolonelklink

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Posted 31 October 2010 - 04:42 PM

*sigh*

#46 Bigworm

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Posted 31 October 2010 - 08:02 PM

lol come on its not that bad :-[
also after i took it for a test drive yesterday i noticed it was extremely loud but i thought it may have just been the way that engine sounded, but i put it up on ramps and stands and found the exaust just before the first muffler had a massive split (around 3/4 of the diameter of the pipe!!) so i took it off and welded a cover plate over it and that sealed it. so now its nice and quiet and runs a lot smoother i guess there wasnt enough back-pressure, but it still needs the spring to run
P.s i only thought of the spring because the original AFM is supposed to have an inbuilt recoil type spring inside the potentiometer cover and mine doesnt (from the photos i have seen anyway)
thanks to everyone who helped me out with this whole debarkle, the advice advice was very helpful!!

Jesse




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