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260z 2-seater 3.1L stroker SOLD


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#21 620Z

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Posted 21 January 2011 - 01:27 PM

Some good points there Rev.

#22 Zeddophile

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Posted 21 January 2011 - 06:36 PM

Another here who thinks 25k or a bit over should sell it.  This is not to say the cars not WORTH 35k, it looks to be a good car with good bits (haven't seen it in the flesh).

The problem is, most people look at that price in comparison to the cheap ones, and say "I can build that car myself for that price, and I don't have to come up with the money all at once."
What they don't factor in is all the little costs (and sheer time) involved in building a car like this, which just keep adding up, especially given the facilities the average person has on hand.  Even Gav240z, who knows quite well how much a lot of these things cost, has been a bit optimistic with his comment previously:

To be honest you can't build a car like that with much change out of 35k.

Gav, no disrespect meant, but the average person won't get any change at all out of 35k to build something like that when you include buying a car to start from.  I'm not convinced I could build that car much cheaper (if at all), as a mechanic by trade with plenty of contacts.  For reference, my Alfetta in my signature owes me not much short of 20k - everything mechanical has been upgraded (every piece of suspension, and the entire powertrain), and the only labour I haven't done are the bits involved machining (engine and gearbox).  That is 20k in parts and machining costs, nothing else, and the engine is standard internally, just that I rebuilt it and balanced.  The machining costs probably make up at MOST 10% for the whole car.  I already had the car, and I'm running a Megasquirt which costs less than a quarter of almost any other aftermarket ECU.  I'm using motorbike throttles which cost me about $400 to buy - considerably less than the EFI hardware gear.

But, back on topic, since the average punter reckons they can build it for 35k, to appeal to them, you need to price it in that 25-30k bracket so they actually realise they are saving money.

Or, you wait for someone who is serious about building a car like yours, realises and understands their limitations, and has fully costed the project out before even buying a car to start from.  That is the guy who will pay 35k for it, but that is also a very rare person, and you may have to wait quite a long time for someone that sensible.

Comes down to whether you need the money now, or want to get what it's worth.  FWIW, if I had that kind of money to play with (Tattslotto please, even a smaller one will do!), 25k would make that car very appealing to me - I know I just could not build it for that.  But keep in mind, I have a soft spot for 3.1s and individual throttle bodies (was a dream of mine when I had my Zed project) - not everyone is going to want that.

#23 DevilZ

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Posted 22 January 2011 - 12:14 PM

Yeah I agree.

I think i will price it down to 30k and leave it there for a while. See how much interest it sparks.
All my friends think I'm crazy to sell the car. I'm thinking I'll make this the final price drop and if it doesn't sell i'll just start to track race it.

thanks for the input guys! :)

Raj

#24 Graedat

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Posted 26 January 2011 - 07:09 PM

Nice 260z there!!
If i had the spare coin i would probably pay 25,000 for this its certainly worth that i reckon.

I would personally keep the car and club reg it. A fraction of the price to keep on the road and with the new changes in Feb and the 90 days its well worth doing it now.
Thats the way i have gone and cant wait to get her back on the road.

Cheers
Graedat

#25 mossy

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Posted 26 January 2011 - 07:14 PM

Nice 260z there!!
If i had the spare coin i would probably pay 25,000 for this its certainly worth that i reckon.

I would personally keep the car and club reg it. A fraction of the price to keep on the road and with the new changes in Feb and the 90 days its well worth doing it now.
Thats the way i have gone and cant wait to get her back on the road.

Cheers
Graedat


Doesn't your car have a V8 Grae? I was under the understanding that the new club reg rules the car couldn't be too modified?


Sorry for the hijack.


#26 Graedat

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Posted 26 January 2011 - 07:43 PM

oh i had better look into that.
I wonder if it applies to a roadworthy and engineered car?

Who in NDSOC can i contact for further info does anyone know??

Oooops hijacking again :o

#27 luvemfast

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Posted 27 January 2011 - 06:20 AM

Who in NDSOC can i contact for further info does anyone know??

260coupe on this forum, Alan is the Club plate delegate.

From my understanding, an engineers certificate is required for modified cars.

#28 wildy55

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Posted 27 January 2011 - 01:22 PM

Hi Raj
I'm looking for a Z at the moment. Not sure this is the right car for me (or my bank account is the right size for you) but my offer will be considerably better than $5K! Give me a bell on 0466 380395 if you want to discuss. Cheers Martin

#29 luvemfast

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Posted 27 January 2011 - 01:30 PM

Hi Raj
I'm looking for a Z at the moment. Not sure this is the right car for me (or my bank account is the right size for you) but my offer will be considerably better than $5K! Give me a bell on 0466 380395 if you want to discuss. Cheers Martin

If you are seriously considering this car Martin, I think you should call Raj. Not the other way round

#30 reverendzed

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Posted 27 January 2011 - 01:33 PM

Big 'double' ditto, Simon! - never had a 'you call me, I might be interested' buyer yet! 
Rev.

#31 gav240z

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Posted 27 January 2011 - 08:09 PM

hey Gav, respectfully I have to give some 'push back' about the idea that the 240z will outprice a 260z.  In my experience most people who are willing to spend are not buying from a 'purist' mindset but from a perspective of 'how much toy' can I get for my dollar.  I have sold two 2+2's for more than many a 240z is going for based on look, immediate drivabilty etc and my 260z beat the selling price of 90% of eqiv 240z, it's not so much the model as it is the ability to purchase something that won't sit in the back corner of the shed for 5 years.
Rev.


To be honest you would know the market much better than I, I've not had to sell a Z in 10 years. I guess it depends on what the buyer is looking for a collector car or something they can drive and enjoy. I'd say most people looking for a Z are simply after something they can enjoy as oppose to an investment.

The problem is, most people look at that price in comparison to the cheap ones, and say "I can build that car myself for that price, and I don't have to come up with the money all at once."
What they don't factor in is all the little costs (and sheer time) involved in building a car like this, which just keep adding up, especially given the facilities the average person has on hand.  Even Gav240z, who knows quite well how much a lot of these things cost, has been a bit optimistic with his comment previously:Gav, no disrespect meant, but the average person won't get any change at all out of 35k to build something like that when you include buying a car to start from.  I'm not convinced I could build that car much cheaper (if at all), as a mechanic by trade with plenty of contacts.


Very good points and to be honest I am forgetting the cost of acquiring a car now. You can't find a rust free 240 / 260 anymore for chump change. I bought my 240z about 8-9 years ago for 7,000 AU and if I had to put it on the market now I would definitely list it around 15k even though I would be the first to admit it needs a little TLC in areas.

I am also forgetting the cost to build such a car, even if you have the skills you need the tools and quality tools are damn expensive. I know because I recently bought an FD RX-7 and since I now live in Dublin I don't have all the tools I used to have at my old folks place. That collection of tools was built up over many years, some were my fathers tools and some were my step dad's and I never really considered how lucky I was to have access to said tools. I now have to start the collection all over again.

So yes to build such a car as this 3.1ltr 260z I'd say you would need a good stack of cash. Not to mention time. It took me several years of searching to find 12 L14 rods and the LD28 crank is not cheap to get in Australia. That's before machine costs.


#32 DevilZ

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Posted 31 January 2011 - 08:42 PM

Hi Raj
I'm looking for a Z at the moment. Not sure this is the right car for me (or my bank account is the right size for you) but my offer will be considerably better than $5K! Give me a bell on 0466 380395 if you want to discuss. Cheers Martin


Hi,

Feel free to contact me if your interested. My number is on carsales.

cheers,

Raj

#33 Grandad

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Posted 09 February 2011 - 02:48 AM

Hi DevilZ

I'm in a similar situation to you just not with a Zed (Whittie lets me share his so long as I don't beat him too often) I have a low k mint condition Mkiv TT targa top Supra that I've subtly modified to suite my requirements, I recently considered selling it but before advertising it I did on the Supra forums what you're doing here and I didn't particularly like the feed back I got but it was honest so I must respect it.

I thought the car was worth low to mid 30's but the forum people said based on recent sales evidence I should expect low to mid 20's the really interesting thing to come out of it was that if I removed all the performance and bling mods and took the car back to stock the price remained ~ the same but the sale value of parts would take my total return up to what I considered to be the car's value, fortunately I have kept all the stock items.

So now to your car, if we say the market value for your car based on recent sales evidence is low to mid 20's, what items can be removed without affecting the price?  A near new stroker motor has real value but it appears not to be adding value to your car so a swap to a less expensive motor may not effect the sale price, likewise a stock or cheaper brake and suspension package also a stock drive line and possibly stock wheels.

Of course you could always arrive at the same conclusion I did and say "Stuff yous all I'm keeping it" park the car in the garage, plug in the battery maintenance charger and go and have a beer in the knowledge that you have an appreciating asset.

BTW.....Recently I spent several days at a truck wash removing kilos of solidified fish oil from assorted nooks and crannies in Whittie's Z in preparation for it's rotisserie experience and as it happened, the truck wash owner has a similar age Falcon GT, when he noticed the Z's independent rear suspension he asked how difficult it was to fit and was amazed when I told him it was standard (I guess he thought all 70's car had cart springs in the rear) he was even more amazed when I told him that new the Datsun 260Z cost more than his Falcon Good Trier.

Your car presents extremely well, good luck with the sale.

John

#34 DevilZ

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Posted 18 April 2011 - 03:15 PM

Hi Guys,

Still haven't had a serious buyer for the car. I'm quiet motivated to sell as I'm really not drivingthe car.
So someone is going to get the chance to snap up a bargain. I'll look at considering offers above 21k, which is a fraction of what a car like this costs to build.
So for those of you interested drop me a personal message with an offer. If the car doesn't sell soon, it will have to have the rego pulled off and left to sit in my
garage for a few year. :)

Raj

#35 handsandwhich

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Posted 18 April 2011 - 04:40 PM

Now you're cooking with gas.

Hope you get some more interest now.

#36 BenZed

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Posted 05 May 2011 - 03:11 PM

Did you try the UK site? Could be a goer, as I sold my last 240Z (with the 1JZ engine) to a UK buyer. This was about 7 years ago and back then getting $19k for a Zed was an achievement. Of course the pound was better back then so he was only paying 8000 quid. He was stoked with the car though, as UK Zeds have even more trouble with rust than we do

#37 aidannn

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Posted 05 May 2011 - 03:19 PM

you might be able to recoup more of your loses if you chuck an l26 in there. leave the efi gear.

then sell your l3.1 on its own. you should get a pretty penny for the engine alone.

#38 DevilZ

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Posted 06 May 2011 - 04:46 PM

Hi,

Thanks for the advice guys. I don't want to put a 2.6l back in there though because with these size multi throttle bodies it wont run nice.
I actually sold the car to a guy that was suppose to pick it up today for $21800 including a roadworthy certificate but he just called me back today and says he
wants to test drive the car again because his not sure why he isn't excited about buying the car. I was even good enough to not get a deposit from him before spending $600 on a roadworthy.....big mistake. So this car is still for sale as far as I can see because he looks to be backing out. Anyone interested better get in quick though.

At $21800 with a roadworthy and a years rego I think a car with this engine is an absolute bargain. Here's the spec sheet I drew up for him on what is on the car right now (I was even giving him a second set of suspension all height adjustable with 300zx twin turbo 4 spot capilipers and rotors along with a rear disk brake setup all in the price)
Anyway here is the spec sheet. The car has only done 4000kms since being built with this engine.

Engine
Management
• Wolf 3D version 4 ecu with handcontroller
• Bosch throttle position sensor
• Custom thermostat housing to take water temp sensor
• Ambient Air temp sensor
• Twin thermo fans
• Dyno Tuned for 98 unleaded fuel only (BP Ultimate)

Intake
• EFI Hardware 6 48mm throttle bodies with race linkages and bosch motorsport 350hp injectors and pro series ram tubes
• Custom cable drive accelerator linkage
• Custom taper bored 3 piece intake manifold

Ignition
• Custom trigger wheel and modified underdrive pully
• Halleffects sensor
• Tripple coil packs
• Hugo igniter module
• Custom ignition leads

Cylinder Head
• Ported cylinder heads (match ported to intake manifold an headers)
• Larger exhaust valve with self lubricating guides
• Competition valve springs and matching lashpads
• Dowled adjustable cam sprocket
• 74 degree reground camshaft (clive cams)
• ARP head stud kit

Short block
• L28 block with over bored cylinders and tunnel bored crank main bearings with screw in oil gallery plugs
• Baffled race sump
• LD28 (stroker) crankshaft with one piece nose, screw in oil gallery plugs, reground and resized journals to match block and conrods
• L24 conrods shotpeend, resized, polished and weighted with 9mm ARP rod bolts, brass bushed little end to take full floating pistons and redrilled for oiling
• JCC full floating pistons (KA24) with ceramic coated tops
• NDC tri-metal race bearings with oil grooves
• Tomie 2mm metal head gasket
• Tomie high volume oil pump
• Fully balanced engine including flywheel/clutch and pully
• Nulon 15-40w mineral based oil only ever used



Exhaust
• Extractors (mixer style) with 1 5/8 inch primarys 2inch secondarys and 2.5 inch final. Fully thermo wrapped
• Stainless steel mandrel bent 2.5 inch custom system

Fuel System
• Rollercell lift pump
• Bosch motorsport 400hp fuel pump
• Custom Surge Tank
• Bosch petrol filters
• Bosch fuel pressure regulator

Driveline
• Custom billet steel flywheel
• Excedy heavy duty organic clutch and pressure plate (R33 skyline GTS-T)
• Cusco MZ one way lsd (s14 200sx upgrade spec) with custom half shafts (only use Castrol fully synthetic oil)
• Adjustable differential stay
• 280zx gearbox

Suspension and Brakes
• 17x7 +40 offset wheels with custom hub adapters (4x114.3 stud pattern in and 4x100 stud pattern out)
• Poly Urethane bushings
• Whiteline sway bar
• Adjustable Castor Rods
• Front strut brace
• Lowered king springs
• Tokico top adjustable shock absorbers
• Toyota Hilux 4 spot calipers
• DBA slotted and ventilated front rotors (R31 skyline spec with remachined hub and redrilled bolt pattern)




#39 Johnboy

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Posted 06 May 2011 - 05:23 PM

Geez sounds like a bargin...

If only i had somewhere to park it and you took monthly installments.

Good luck with the sale.

John

#40 handsandwhich

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Posted 06 May 2011 - 06:17 PM

Sorry to hear that DevilZ, If the buyer doesn't go through with it, I guess you have at least learned a valuable lesson by taking a deposit next time?

Either way, It won't be hard to get another roadworthy if you need one at a later date.

Price is pretty good, just a waiting game to find the right buyer now.




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