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2jz in 260z?


qik_shift

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Hello all,

 

I'm the current owner of a '72 Mazda rx3 with an engineered 13b turbo and an '06 Golf GTI, and I am seriously thinking about starting a new project - a 2JZ into a 260z.

 

Apart from the obvious modifications such as ECU, fuel pumps, surge tanks, brake and diff upgrade), fuel regulators and other ancillaries, I am wondering how a 2JZ physically fits into the engine bay of a 260z. I have read threads on this from US sites but I am a little reluctant to rely on this, as the steering box and certain parts will be the other way around.

 

I guess the main things I need answered are as follows:

 

1) Does the motor physically fit?

2) Are there any major modifications that would be required to engine mounts that would make the conversion difficult?

3) Do any oil sump modifications need to be made?

4) Does a standard 2JZ gearbox fit in a standard 260z trans-tunnel?

 

I am aware this is a big dollar conversion, but I want to make sure that the basics of the conversion are doable and engineerable (In other words, I don't want to have to design a new chassis or cut into the firewall to make the motor fit)

 

If anybody has done this conversion, any info would be greatly appreciated.

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To answer your question.....

yes it should fit, but it is a bloody big engine....

people have done it before, and had some fun with it....

have a look at www.hybridz.org to get more details, as I know next to nothing about it.

 

Huw

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Thanks for the link. Here is an excerpt from somebody who has done the conversion:

 

'Balance is 53% front, 47% rear.Engine mounts moved to off the rails behind the strut towers. disappeared the original mounts from the crossmember which made it easier to set up a 2 turns lock to lock power rack'

 

Seems reasonably well balanced with the major job being an engine mount fabrication which is pretty reasonable.

 

he also mentioned wiring was pretty hard, but I don't envisage that problem, as I'll be using a standalone ECU solution.

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i'm hoping that within a year i will be going through the same issue, and will be tossing up between a 1jz, 2jz and rb26. since there are a few rhd zeds with 1jz's in them i'd assume the 2jz would fit fine as its outside dimentions must be pretty similar if ppl build up 1.5jz's?

 

russ on here amoungst the other forums, has a 1jz vvti model in his 260z and i belive it was pretty hassle free from what i've heard from him, and he's using the stock ecu and auto gearbox for now, and has a subaru steering rack, i'm not sure if this is because it wouldnt clear the stock one or not? but i'll let him talk about his car, lol

 

i think one of the more expensive issues is getting a manual gearbox, particually one with a halfcut, at this stage i'm leaning more towards an rb26 for my car, but both would be awesome!

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The current issue of JTUNER mag, (Oct 06), has an artical on UK Z club members cars. About six S30 cars with various motors including a car built in Aust and imported to UK with 1JZ motor. The artical is a bit vague and photos could have been better but the 240 with the supra motor is almost on par with the heavily modded 3.1L race car. MInd you the 1JZ was in need of tune so underperforming by alot. Looks like a heavy motor though wonder how it would feel in corners compared to say an RB motor.

 

I just checked out the mags website and it's got vid footage of some night racing on Wangan Highway in Tokyo, mostly skylines doing a supposed 280km on some sections although I did'nt watch the film all the way through! Link below

 

magazine.jpg

 

 

 

Despite carrying three people in the 700bhp+ R34 GT-R, Matt assures us that (when he briefly opened his eyes) the speedo was reading nearly 280kph (174mph) before the driver lifted-off the accelerator pedal.

 

http://www.jtunermagazine.co.uk/page/jtuner?entry=we_do_280kph_on_the

 

Anyway back to the topic from here, did'nt mean to hijack this thread!!!

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As far as the ECU is ceoncerned, Vicroads don't have any particular issue with them, it is more the EPA, as new fuel and ignition maps can alter the emissions of the vehicle.

 

As I will be ensuring that I purchase a pre-pollution vehicle (Pre-1976), then I would find it hard for EPA or Vicroads to argue that the ECU doesn't comply with standards.

 

I am unsure of the engine mount and engineers, however I honestly don't feel that would be a major issue. I will be consulting with an engineer before the work has commenced, however I assume the engineer will need to actually see the motor and the engine bay before a comment can be made. By the point, it's amost too late to go back, which is why I am trying my best to research what I can before I buy the car.

 

Thanks for the high quality of feedback. It is much appreciated

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It's all about the engineering' date=' ask the eningineer if it can be done and usually they will say yes. I havent heard of an after market ecu not complying engineering, but then again Vic roads are the most anal in the country. :D[/quote']

 

Actually NSW can be pretty bad with weight/capacity restraints and so forth. There is a movement to adopt a national standard, but this has been going for some time. OUr restrictions will only become tougher from what I can see!

 

The new standards at the moment is called the Naitonal Code of Practice and is being managed by the Department of Transport.

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G'Day all,

 

I've been lurking around for about a week on this and other forums as I bought a '73 240Z a fortnight ago and am in the learning stage but thought I'd comment on this having just spoken to an engineer a week ago.

 

Keep in mind I'm in Sydney so my comments may not matc VIC laws but it should be fiarly close if not the same.

 

NSW is strict on allowed capacity and it's about to become stricter. The old 350 V8 swap hasn't been allowed for a while and under current regs you can go up to a 4.9l capacity. However under the regs about to be introduced that'll be reduced to 4.1. This is for NA, not forced induction BTW and based upon the offical RTA weight of 1041kg for a 240Z. I don't know if these are the long rumoured national guidlines being introduced, it didn't occur to me at the time to ask.

 

On the subject of aftermarket ECU qik_shift is correct in that if it's a pre '76 vehicle they don't particular care, even with a new engine swapped in. In NSW there's no pollution check, even for the blue slip inspection so you can run aftermarket ECU without any hassles however all original emissions gear must be on the engine and correctly connected.

 

So there's my quick 2c worth although I will add why bother with the Toyota motor when an RB is an easier swap, I'm sure I saw a mounting kit available for the RB series.

 

Anyway, love the site, I'm learning lots about Z cars. Now, back to lurking.

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A 2j will fit but it's 14.5 mm higher than a 1J,can have be a tight fit under bonnet.You can probably get a bit lower than mine, but then power steer could be a problem fitting. very tight around the twin turbo's as well, but unless you are planning on non road use,a 2JZ is huge overkill .The 1j engine in standard form has more power and torque than an RB26,later design,much stronger,And you don't have to shag around getting rid if the 4wd. It is only now that the Yanks have started to realise how good this series is. Japanese have been on it for years,The only reason it's not to the fore is it has always been put into heavy (and ugly cars) Also Brock/Richards winning Bathurst really helped the RB26 along here.

I went for the later Vvt single turbo, more clearance in turbo area ( more power than Soarer/Mk3 Supra 1J engine, also max torque378Nms is at 2400RPM the 2jz is 430Nms at 3600rpm all these engines have the max Jap horsepower rating 0f 206Kws, I suspect the Supra for one has at least another 100Kw.

I an actually stepping down the diffs from tyre shredding grunt 3.7/1 to 3.37/1, better cruiser, and still spins wheels in 3rd when I'm not trying.Even with this diff, very scary in the wet. wet = any dampness.

As pointed out above, my engine mounts are off the rails about 6 inches behind the strut towers, which will be helping the balance 53%front /47%rear.It is a heavy engine ,1290Kg all up,10 litres fuel,no driver,aircon not fitted yet. There is no problem with steering clearance even with standard steering rack (turning it could be a problem,with that weight which is why I went power steer).Handling with power is magic.

The engine and gearbox mounts have to fabricated,no drama there, update your tacho/speedo to electronic(I have just put up a post on how to set these up on www.zgarage.com )-could be an"au" after that.Using my other alias Splatt.

Due to engineering in NSW not allowing aftermarket engine management(if you can alter the fuel/air, you can alter the emisions,not allowed-later perhaps?..)I am running a 4 speed auto, I have a R154 manual set up ready to go, Toyota runs engine and transmission through the same ECU -different one for manual. Auto was originallt temporary, I didn't think it would happen, but I really like the auto, it will be staying till it breaks.

The only hard part of the swap is the wire up, If it wasn't for a genius called Sideshow(Jim) I would probably still be scratching my head.-Reasonable priced and he will travel- if you pay.

TT 1Js are easierto wire.

He had done 30 plus 1Js, but not a Vvt, He figured there would be more of them in the future so mine was a test.The Vvt runs a completely different ECU to any other 1J/2J also tranny big different.

WARNING! whatever you buy,Toyota/Nissan ,GET A HALFCUT, If you buy just an engine/trans , it will cost a fortune for all the bits you are going to need, and won't get with an engine. Always get the map/airflow, harness and ECU particually on a VVt, completely different to any other 1J/2J that Toyota made.

Just buying an engine is for when you are allready set up and need another one.

You will need a rear sump to clear crossmember, 1J/2J/ came with 3 types(all interchangeable)front,middle and rear I have not seen a middle one, but rear clears easy, If you are "unlucky"enough to get a front sump(Chaser)these are in big demand for Cressida conversions ,$300 on toymods and they will kill for one, the rear type that you need are common,$70-$100

At the moment I'm planning on removing $2000 from Mr Howard to install a Gas Research system, I've used their stuff twice before and love it, engine perfectly set up for their carb.

My typing finger(singular) has frozen up, anything you want to know, ask. If close to Sydney drop in.

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Just noticed Apsilons post on not needing emission test in NSW, There have been a lot of engineers removed/no longer on register in NSW in last year or two, a lot for bending the rules. A lot of cars passed by them failed when pulled in for retests. Do it right the first time.

I think you will find that in any engine swap that is just dumping in the same type engine no test needed,just a blue slip to update the engine number, but in a change of type you will need a printout on emissions to be included with the engineers report, this rule was in a couple of years ago( I took my last car California Tr8 import to the RTA in Mascot/Botany,It passed there, had had failed the day before in a private run test, All I changed was adding couple of litres of straight ethanol to the tank. Private testers cost, RTA is free,you don't have to be frightened of them, they are friendly people. Easy on the ethanol, it smells a bit.

If you do a shit head hoon act on them, you get to come back- lots of times, there was one there when I put mine through, I could not get a bet on that this guy was going to fail the "atitude"test. I don't know how many times he's been back , still hasn't worked it out. Getting uglier every time to, I hear.

In NSW car must comply with emissions of engine type /year fitted, not the car it goes into( I believe the reverse is the rule in ACT,correct me if I'm wrong, but it seems in Queensland you can do what you like)

Must have factory ECU, and approved cat fitted. Also must pass noise test. Got to have other stuff, like brakes as well.

Under the new standardised rules,not yet Oz wide, a 2.5 or 3 litre even turboed ,should not create problems in a car that was originally 2.6L.

The engineer I use is one of the few that can certify under the new rules,car can then be sold without problems in any state.And also no problems in NSW.

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Just noticed Apsilons post on not needing emission test in NSW' date=' There have been a lot of engineers removed/no longer on register in NSW in last year or two, a lot for bending the rules. A lot of cars passed by them failed when pulled in for retests. Do it right the first time.[/quote']

 

That's true, there have been a lot that have lost their signatory status and I hear there's a couple more about to. I actually spent a fair bit of time asking around about who I should speak to and only a couple of names kept coming up. The downside I was told to using either of them is that they follow the rules to the letter. That's fine with me, no hassles later on.

 

I raised the topic of pollution testing with the one I chose and was told no need to do a test for a pre '76 vehicle no matter the engine going in (I'd already discussed my engine choice with him so he was aware of my plans for a much newer engine. I actually asked twice as I wasn't expecting that reply. I'll ask again when I speak to him in a week or so but ATM my understanding is no emmisions test required for a pre '76 vehicle but all original emmissions equipment must be fitted and operational on the engine/vehicle.

 

I have absolutely no trouble with doing an emmissions test BTW as I'm sure I can get it to pass but if I don't have to then great, it's one less thing to worry about.

 

Agree with you about the attitude test. It's so common when dealing with authorities in any field yet the one so many people get stuck on.

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The ones I have had to test have been post 1976, never done an earlier one before, I've probably got confused because of this. I always thought it was anything post 1972, (start of compliance plates) On reflection,the heavy emission rules did start about 1975.

On mine that had to be engineered, the rule was, if it has a compliace plate(72+),regardless of year, then every ADR listed by the numbers has to be complied with. emission would not have been listed on plate till later.I would have needed the test on mine because mine came later

I just assumed it was all of them with a plate. :oops:

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You could still be right about it being any plated vehicle (one of the reasons I tried so hard to get an earlier car) and I'll certainly confirm again before comitting my hard earned $$$ but this is going to take me at least a year and a half so I have plenty of time (but is also the reason I'm looking at the laws about to be introduced and not just the current laws).

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I'm not 100% sure on the engine year or make for emissions, but they didnt test me, they just saw that a cat (which was actually a resonator) and the charcoal canister and passed me for all that, but i was told my power fc will pass in ACT, so everyone can use my address to get their car regitered and engineered. :D joking

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Go the RB25!! :D Its so much easier and made by Nissan. :D

 

my vote is for the RB30 with an RB25/26 head.........lots of aftermarket gear available in aus(see calaisturbo.com),bolts in easily,cheap and readily available bottom ends if you boost a rod through the block :roll: ,lots of local research into what works well for extra HP,easy to wire up,relatively cheap for the HP potential,fits with lots of room for servicing,gobs of torque and revs available............oh and it's a nissan in a nissan

guys in the states cringe when i tell them we use RB30's for boat anchors,they would give their eye teeth for one,grass is always greener elsewhere!!

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RussJZ especially - thanks heaps for your great posts!

 

The chances are I may use the twin turbo for a little while, but this car will be quite heavily modified and raced over time and I'd expect a large single turbo to go on.

 

My other main questions are other drivetrain components. Tailshaft can be made up so no big probs there, but I am really concerned about the diff. What diff could I fit/modify to suit the factory IRS or would I need to go to a live axle conversion and ford 9 inch diff (not ideal)? I am looking eventually to have anywhere up to 500-600 rwkw (on race fuel) by the time I am done with the car.

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http://www.viczcar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=299

there is heaps on diffs here, but i have the Cusco 2 way LSD which is easily supporting 250rwkw, they are very strong, but the Cv conversion is highly recommended. All of the stub axles seem to have the same diameter, just different spline counts, so make sure you have the same spline count from the CV's to diff centre and they should be fine (I have 29 spline count). This is for the Longnose R200 with use of the short nose R200's used in later model Nissans, the other thing to note is to use original crown wheel and pinion gears (custom bolts). I also recomend getting the centre put in professionally so that it is aligned with spacers properly. Ok so this makes sense to me, but probably no one else so if the link doesnt answer the question then give me or any of us a PM.

Scott

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