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#1 biggels240z

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Posted 21 September 2010 - 12:17 AM

Hey guys

i need some more front camber can anyone tell me how much i can get with standard size springs ! ive upgraded to the lbs on the front and rear springs but suffering terrible understeer and i need some more camber to help turn it in a little better . Let me know what you done ?

cheers
Richard

#2 Lurch ™

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Posted 21 September 2010 - 06:43 AM

I had some adjustable LCA's made, with a rose joint on one end.
Works great, but it's not easily adjustable at the track...
Otomoto sell some genric adj camber strut tops, so this might be worth looking into & makeing fit in the Zed...

#3 PZG302

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Posted 21 September 2010 - 07:47 AM

First thing I would do before spending money on new bits would be a good wheel alignmnet if you haven't already.

A standard car should be able to get around 1 to 1.5 degree of negative camber in the front and this should be fine for a road car. If you are getting understeer, I would also be looking at the other settings, ie toe and also even simple things like tyre pressure.

What have you increased the spring rates to? anything over around 250lb/inch is probably getting too stiff for a road car, and for most track cars you see rates around the 275-300b/inch. My car runs a very stiff set up, 450 front and 420 rear, but I run 18 inch slicks and a locked diff, so this would not work for most other cars.

Get the basics right, ie alignment and pressures, before spending big dollars and still no guarantee of fixing the basic problem you have.

#4 luvemfast

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Posted 21 September 2010 - 08:05 AM

Got the bug again Richard?

#5 Whittie

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Posted 21 September 2010 - 09:47 AM

I have a set of these on my car:

http://www.technotoy...etail.php?p=846

They work a treat and with the AU/US exchange at the moment, under $500 at your door!!

#6 NZeder

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Posted 21 September 2010 - 09:50 AM

If you want better turn-in then "Caster Makes you Faster" you want adjust both camber and caster with the correct toe and a zed will turn in great ;)

However more caster, camber = heavier on the wheel but that is the price you must pay for better turn-in.

#7 Roberto

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Posted 21 September 2010 - 10:00 AM

I recently put these on the front of my zed:

http://www.zccjdm.co...ER_SPACER_ZCAR_

Kills two birds with one stone and as you can see there is lots of negative camber.  ;)

#8 Riceburner

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Posted 21 September 2010 - 12:42 PM

I recently put these on the front of my zed:

http://www.zccjdm.co...ER_SPACER_ZCAR_

Kills two birds with one stone and as you can see there is lots of negative camber.  ;)


I also run those, made a big difference to my turn in, easy to fit and return to normal if required.

#9 luvemfast

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Posted 21 September 2010 - 01:13 PM

I recently put these on the front of my zed:

http://www.zccjdm.co...ER_SPACER_ZCAR_

Kills two birds with one stone and as you can see there is lots of negative camber.  ;)

If someone can supply me one, I'll model it up in CAD so it can be replicated easily.

#10 Riceburner

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Posted 21 September 2010 - 01:18 PM

How long would you need it for? I might be able to help....

#11 RB30X

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Posted 21 September 2010 - 01:22 PM

I looked at those and thought they wouldn't be too hard to make as well.

#12 NZeder

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Posted 21 September 2010 - 01:26 PM

I recently put these on the front of my zed:

http://www.zccjdm.co...ER_SPACER_ZCAR_

Kills two birds with one stone and as you can see there is lots of negative camber.  ;)

The only issue with those is they alter the roll centre - which in turn moves the bump - it does not remove bump it just places it at different location so you don't notice it anymore (ie back where the factory had it but now at a different roll centre)

So these bump steer spacer should never be called that but roll centre adjusters as that is what they actually do is alter the roll centre and a side effect is moving the bump - it does not remove bump. The issue is now you have moved the front roll centre but left the rear in the factory spot - so this might cause other issues.

But would this difference in front and rear roll centre be noticed on a road car anyway ?? ;)

#13 luvemfast

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Posted 21 September 2010 - 01:51 PM

How long would you need it for? I might be able to help....

Not long Gareth, pm me your phone number

#14 mossy

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Posted 02 April 2011 - 03:07 PM

First thing I would do before spending money on new bits would be a good wheel alignmnet if you haven't already.

A standard car should be able to get around 1 to 1.5 degree of negative camber in the front and this should be fine for a road car. If you are getting understeer, I would also be looking at the other settings, ie toe and also even simple things like tyre pressure.

What have you increased the spring rates to? anything over around 250lb/inch is probably getting too stiff for a road car, and for most track cars you see rates around the 275-300b/inch. My car runs a very stiff set up, 450 front and 420 rear, but I run 18 inch slicks and a locked diff, so this would not work for most other cars.

Get the basics right, ie alignment and pressures, before spending big dollars and still no guarantee of fixing the basic problem you have.


I didn't think you could adjust the alignment on the 240z with stock parts? I was going to use delrin bushes on mine front and rear for alignment(only a road car) but I have since researched they are harsh for the road and hardly anyone uses the front delrin bushes for some reason?

#15 MaygZ

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Posted 04 April 2011 - 09:50 AM

I recently put these on the front of my zed:

http://www.zccjdm.co...ER_SPACER_ZCAR_

Kills two birds with one stone and as you can see there is lots of negative camber.  ;)


I must be missing something.  One sections their struts and puts in some of Ben's coilovers, lowering the ride hight of their beast (along with other benefits).  This obviously changes the camber - and possibly the caster as I'm not all over the strut angle.

then we purchase an aluminium bloke to fit at the bottom of the strut?  Doesn't this simply replaced the length taken out when the strut was sectioned?  Doesn't it simply return the strut and angles back to the factory settings (obviously dependant on how much you sectioned)?

It appears to me that Lurch's fix and/or BenZed's top plate or Whittie's arms would change the angles in a betterway.

As I said, I must be missing something.

#16 Roberto

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Posted 04 April 2011 - 10:42 AM

Bump steer spacers will keep the length of the entire strut assembly closer to the normal length after lowering in an attempt to keep suspension geometry normal and avoid bump steer.  Because they are below the spring perch (on the bottom), bump steer spacers have no effect on ride height.

Sectioning struts will not change ride height either as the spring perches are not involved, just the strut tube.  It is just a way to gain strut travel to avoid bottoming out on lowered cars.

Clear as mud ??  :-\

#17 Riceburner

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Posted 04 April 2011 - 10:50 AM

The bump steer spacer are offset giving more neg camber, they return the lower control arm to the correct geometry and actually lower the car slightly more. They just bolt straight on the ball joint/steering arm and can be fitted up without changing alignment. The only issue I had was tyre clearance, because the base of the strut and wheel are kicked out, so guards were rolled. I run the delrin bushes on front control arms too without any issues.

#18 Graedat

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Posted 17 April 2011 - 08:55 PM

Richard, if you want a hand measuring your exact camber and castor i may be able to help.

I have a hoist and a 4 wheel alignment machine that makes adjustment and correction a breeze.
Happy to help out any fellow zed owners also.
Graeme

#19 luvemfast

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Posted 17 April 2011 - 09:18 PM

Richard, if you want a hand measuring your exact camber and castor i may be able to help.

I have a hoist and a 4 wheel alignment machine that makes adjustment and correction a breeze.
Happy to help out any fellow zed owners also.
Graeme

Just may take you up on that offer Graeme.

#20 Graedat

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Posted 18 April 2011 - 07:24 AM

No problem Simon.
let me know when you can come down my way and we can have a look.
If you have any special specs you want to follow that's cool too.
Otherwise i have most car specs from 61 to 2003.




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