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luvemfast

L series preferred oil brand and grade?

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I am getting ready to fire up the transplant this weekend. So I need to go oil shopping tonight.

Its a rebuilt L28, but done a few years ago. So should be treated as a more worn engine than new.

 

I remember reading that Valvoline was a popular choice, but can't remember which grade.

It had good cleaning and lubricating properties for our style of older technology engines, something to do with sulphur and lead replacement.

 

thanks, Simon

 

 

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taken from datsunzgarage

 

MOTOR OIL

The quality of the oils used today versus what was available in the 1970s is night-and-day. Back then they sludged up motors and filled oil pans with glop, it's amazing so many Z engines made it to 200,000 miles using that oil...it really says something about the quality of Datsun engines as a whole. Today's SM API rated oils have much more detergent and anti varnishing abilities and are said to be stable out to 10,000 miles.

 

HOWEVER...older engines with mechanical valve tappets like the ZCar L-series engines and V8s with flat tappets (not roller cams) were designed for motor oil which contains a moderate amount of zinc and phosphorus known as ZDDP (zinc diaklydithiophosphate). ZDDP is considered a miracle lubricant for engines and has been used for about 60 years in motor oil and greases worldwide. Modern engines weren't designed to need ZDDP so the modern-day automotive world doesn't even speak of it. But for vintage car and hot-rod owners the diminishing levels ZDDP in oil is a real issue because it's required to lubricate the cam lobes and prevent wear across the rocker arm surfaces.

 

WHY IT'S VANISHING IN OIL

While zinc is not directly harmful to the environment, if its burned due to ring blowby it ruins your catalytic converter. So over last decade the EPA has pressured the oil companies to reduce the percentage of ZDDP in their passenger car oils. This extends the life of converters...which in turn reduces total car emissions. Pressure from the construction industry allowed some diesel oils like Rotella T made by Shell to use higher levels of ZDDP which they claim is needed on heavy equipment. However, I don't like the idea of using bulldozer-grade oil in my 7,000 rpm L28, even if it does have more zinc. Starting in 2007 construction equipment had tighter emissions standards so zinc in Rotella is likely to fade if not greatly diminished already.

Luckily there is still one company with the guts to market a higher ZDDP oil for passenger cars, in a viscosity that doesn't reduce horsepower: Valvoline. Their VR1 10W-30 racing oil is a quality SH grade oil which simply means the ZDDP hasn't been removed to qualify as a SL or SM grade. Valvoline's MSDS sheet lists it at 1.3% phosphorus/zinc, 1% sulfated ash and 2.5% calcium...which makes for a nice lube cocktail. The new SM grade oils all have about .08% ZDDP to conform to EPA standards while 2% and higher ZDDP is considered the level to use in an older motor. Valvoline states it exceeds SM levels of protection...so this is now my oil of choice, even over a synthetic.

 

Find it in the US at NAPA stores, the Valvoline part# is 205, $5.75 a quart in October 2008. Sold by the case they will likely have to get it shipped in from their warehouse. It also comes in a 20W-50 version but I think that's too thick for a L28 motor.

 

Would a 20W-50 be better for our style engines?

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Actually called the Valvoline technical info line.

Very helpful.

They recommended Racing Formula 50 25W-60, which is a mineral oil that has zinc in it and an API rating of SH.

Product code 1045.57 and comes in 5L only

 

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If you can still find it, I've found the Penzoil GT- the 10-50 mineral oil only, to be very good and at a good price, unfortunately it's getting harder to find than rocking horse poo as it's not brought in any more. If you find some, make sure it has the zinc additives. Shell may have a replacement, but haven't really looked

 

For my new motor in the Z, the engine builder put me onto the Joe Gibbs driven Oil from the states. Not cheap at $120 for six 900ml bottles, but cheap insurance for a race motor.

 

here's a link to their web site...http://www.joegibbsracingoil.com/

 

The other oil I would recommend would be a suitable Penrite, I will be using this in my Charger and MX5 as they need zinc being older technology motors or high milage, MX5 210,000km and still going strong.

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I used to use fully synthetic Mobil 1 and always had tappet noise I couldn't get rid of.  I even added that "Tappet Noise Stop" additive (which has molybdenum disulphide) and it only marginally helped.  This was a 30K since rebuild L26 engine.

 

I decided to go for a thicker mineral oil because I figured that this is what these engines were designed to use. I switched to Penrite 20-60 and tappet noise stopped.  Didn't even need to add the additive.

 

My advice is to get an oil of the correct viscosity for older engines (usually a bit thicker) and change it more rather than less often.

 

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Definitly from allI have read, look for the Zinc content. some has 0.04%, and then others 1.4% (like the VR1 Racing Valvoline, in 10w-30... well a few years back it did)

 

Here in Canberra I use a 10w 30 as in the mornings its usually -3 deg, and I need the oil to get to the nooks in the engine quicker.

Using a Nulon 20w 40 in the wifes suzuki Ignis, and its noisy as hell in the mornings till its warmed up.

 

I suggest use something to match the driving conditions (average temp for the season and also driving style)

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make that 3 votes for penrite...the HPR30 & HPR40 are excellent for L-series with moderate mileage on them..

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Ok, after some research and calls to the technical lines, I have come up with a very short pros and cons list.

 

Valvoline Forumla 50 25W-60

Not readily available and ranges from $50-$60

 

Penrite HPR-30 20W-60

readily available and is $37-$38

 

So I'll be buying some HPR-30.

Only decider is availability and price as they seem to be comparable.

 

Hope this helps anyone looking to buy some oil for their Z.

 

 

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Looking at the Penrite website, would the "Classic" series oil be a better choice for a stock/ near stock L6?

 

The zinc content is higher in the Classic than the HPR 30 as well

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If you can still find it, I've found the Penzoil GT- the 10-50 mineral oil only, to be very good and at a good price, unfortunately it's getting harder to find than rocking horse poo as it's not brought in any more.

 

I just tried a Pennzoil as autobarn had no valvoline in stock so they gave it to me for the same price, i gotta say it's an improvment and i can tell the difference. They have discontinued production as it says if you google it.

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+4 penrite HPR40, used it for 5 years on my original L28 and it still doesn't used oil. Used mobil1 when I first got it and a litre was eaten in no time  :o

 

haha agree,  mobil 1 is thinner than pure mountain spring water ! It was really designed for metro-sexual middle aged men who drive Boxters..........and MX-5's........

wait for it... 8)

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haha agree,  mobil 1 is thinner than pure mountain spring water ! It was really designed for metro-sexual middle aged men who drive Boxters..........and MX-5's........

wait for it... 8)

 

It was 20/50 but had the consistancy of tea, I would've been better off using thinners as that wouldn't have vanished as fast! hehe.

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haha agree,  mobil 1 is thinner than pure mountain spring water ! It was really designed for metro-sexual middle aged men who drive Boxters..........and MX-5's........

wait for it... 8)

Ease up Chris, he just stacked his bike  ;D

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haha agree,  mobil 1 is thinner than pure mountain spring water ! It was really designed for metro-sexual middle aged men who drive Boxters..........and MX-5's........

wait for it... 8)

 

Oi!!! leave us middle aged men with MX5's alone......Well maybe not those with NB and NC girly MX5's, the NA would die with Mobil 1 in it, way too thin for a motor with 200k on it!!!!

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??? Whats the problem with Newlon aren't they using that exclusively in the ute races on tv ,or is that not fact.

 

                                                      Regards : Alan.

 

 

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??? Whats the problem with Newlon aren't they using that exclusively in the ute races on tv ,or is that not fact.

Nothing wrong with Nulon Alan, but horses for courses.

We have older tech engines that have different requirements.

Remember........ oils aint oils

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??? Whats the problem with Newlon aren't they using that exclusively in the ute races on tv ,or is that not fact.

 

                                                      Regards : Alan.

 

 

 

They would be using Nulon the same way Larry Perkins used Mobil 1 when he worked for Brock in the 80's. The oil drum may have been blue with a Mobil sticker on it but look closely and underneath it still had the Castrol paint job. You could see the ridges from.the stripes and read Castrol through the paint.

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so all these oils can be found down at ur repco, autobarn etc? any chance of a poll of best oils? ive been in a few topics like this and alot of ppl have different opinions, and for me its confusing haha :P

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I am a fan of Penrite HPR30 - used it since 2004 with no issues! :)

 

Current tarmac rally engine was rebuilt in early 2006 & is still going strong (using Penrite HPR30)

 

NOTE: I do change the oil regularly (3 to 4 times a times a year) as the car is not regularly driven on road etc. mostly track work.

 

You may be surprised BUT the L series (when driven hard) do cause engine oil temperatures to rise significantly - so oil quality is critical.

 

I have never noticed the Penrite oil to smell "burnt" but change regularly as it is still a "mineral oil".

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I use Motul 300V 10W30 Ester base oil, but it aint cheap. $100 for 4L

I know (knew) the Motul rep quite well, i discussed the zinc requirement for older engines with him and he assures me that the ester base oil is a suitable alternative.

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Hi Guys,

          I also am using Penrite HPR 30. Where I live the summer temperatures are above 40 degrees and I want maximum protection. If I were living in a colder climate I would be using the HPR 15 (semi synthetic) if the engine was either rebuilt or in good condition. These are my thoughts for a street car.

Happy and safe Easter everyone.

David. :)

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