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Tackling the Tappets/Valve Lash - Too hard for an amateur?


stevo_gj

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Well if you have read my huge thread last year where I was trying to sort out my SU carb issues you will know the end result was that the tappets needed adjustment.

 

This cost me over a hundred to get done and I wonder if it's something I could learn to do myself?

 

Is it possible to take the valve cover off and make these adjustments myself with the engine still in the car?

 

The reason I want to learn to do this is that I noticed a HUGE performance improvement when the lash was adjusted correctly -obviously caused by fixing the loss of compression.

 

I think that perhaps the valve lash may have moved back into a less than ideal position. I think this is related to worn valves or a related component because to my knowledge the engine has never been rebuilt.

 

Thoughts?

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Yes it can make a huge diference.

 

But your stateing two diferent things Steve.

Tappets are the rockers or tappets below the cam & the lash or lash pads are below the rockers/tappets & between the valve spring retainer.

 

Give me a call now & I can explain more ;)

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In short, tappet (rocker) adjustment is quite easy to do and yes you can do it yourself with basic tools.

 

Lash, or spring rate, is quite complicated and will more than likely require head removal.

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Yes your engine may need rebuilding but do a compression test to see if the compression figures are within specs, if they are, proceed....

 

To adjust valve lash start with no 1 cylinder, turn motor over by hand until no 6 is "rocking", which means one valve going down as one is just coming up...the valves at no 1 cylinder are ready then to adjust because they are clear of the cam lobes, so adjust them with correct thickness feeler guages

 

To adjust no 2 cylinder, get no 5 "rocking"

 

To adjust no 3 cylinder, get no 4 "rocking"

 

To adjust no 4 cylinder, get no 3 "rocking"

 

To adjust no 5 cylinder, get no 2 "rocking"

 

To adjust no 6 cylinder, get no 1 "rocking"

 

 

Geezz lurch, is this a public forum for everyone to learn, or for private phone calls ? come on mate

 

 

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Geezz lurch, is this a public forum for everyone to learn, or for private phone calls ? come on mate

 

1. It was around midnight & I CBF'd.

2. I'd had a few Scotchs buy that stage & CBF'd.

3. I was watching LeMans & I couldn't be bothered typing a Tuturial out at the same time.

4. It was quicker to speak to Steve during the ad break & tell him exactly what to do.

 

While your up on your high horse Zedsabbath, how about you go & right a FULL Tuturial with pics about how to do it (& I'll 'sticky' it), instead of bagging me out for it, huh?

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HOOOOOOMMMMMMM!!!

 

Let's all go to our happy place!

 

Blessed are the peacemakers for they shall be known as the children of God.

 

Take a chill pill.

 

Peace brother.

 

:) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :D :D :D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D

 

That should cover most age groups and denominations.

 

 

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You've both got good points, we are trying to make this useful for everyone not just me. Thanks again Lurch for a very interesting and informative conversation. I'll take a few pics and maybe a video while I attempt to adjust the tappets and post them up here. I won't be attempting it for a few weeks anyway so feel free to chip in other bits of advice here. Photos would be helpful

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Steve, I just did my 280zx yesterday. Assuming it is only the adjustment we can do it some time. The only tricky bit is knowing what cam you have.....but I think yours is standard right?

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Ok ill do , here goes, firstly , to get the best results the engine should be hot, whilst the engine running listen to the valve train and general running noises from the engine, is the cam train noisy or quiet, if its noisy then you would expect to find the valve clearances loose, if quiet then they would be expected to find tight, listen to the exhaust pipe for a constant burble you know like BBBBBBBB  or if its sounds BBBBURBBBBURBBBURB  it could be a tight valve or a valve that maybe isnt seating properly, this is crazy , this is gonna take ages back shortly., Im back , remove spark leads and spark plugs keeping plugs in order of each cylinder, examine plugs for condition , remove rocker cover by firstly cracking each stud starting from the middle and working outward in a spiral give the cover a wack sideways with a soft mallet and proceed to undo and remove studs lift off cover and inspect valve train , now this is where things get really tricky , this is gonna take ages ,lurch is right cant print all this just too much to cover, a lot of expertise required here,there isnt any point adjusting the clearances untill the condition of the valve train is determined ,you could end up going backwards and god knows who was in there before you got there, maybe leave it to someone that knows what they are doing, un less someone else wants to carry on from here ,too much to cover

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It's Ok Dazz, calm down and don't forget to breathe.

 

Just take it slowly.  As long as you take it slowly and follow the manual, you can't really break anything.  Just work the feeler guages in gently and evenly, making sure you don't flex them.  Just take your time.  Don't be to concerned that you have to get it all done while the engine is hot/warm.  Infact may be worth doing it with a cold engine first up.  This will show you if any were miles out, or a valve seat is stuffed without putting the engine temp pressure on yourself.

 

As a side note: if you don't know how an engine works, turning a motor by hand with the ditributor cap and the rocker cover off is a great way of seeing it all come together.  You can watch the piston come up, as the cam turns to close the valves, just as the distributor top comes around to the lead for that cylinder.  You can see where all the other valves and pistons are at the same time.  Well I find it so simple and yet so complex, that it's fascinating for me.

 

If you have read this far - just relax and take your time.

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Steve I'm pretty sure this is covered in that maintenance video from Z Therapy...

 

I can vaguely remember this, I'll have to have a look!

 

Stevo, and others. Here is a page to print so you can keep track of what you have done / yet to do. Forgive me if you already have it.

Steve, I just did my 280zx yesterday. Assuming it is only the adjustment we can do it some time. The only tricky bit is knowing what cam you have.....but I think yours is standard right?

 

Thanks Greg! I will definitely take you up on the offer. I'm pretty sure it would be the standard cam. Thanks for that sheet!

 

I might do it the first time with a cold engine to get used to it, and then see if I can do it with a hot engine. As per a comment from Lurch I'll definitely be buying gloves from supercheap for when it's hot.

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Depends on the individual.

I perfor to have at least one glove on, in case I do mange to touch the hot engine parts/oil.

 

And Steve is one "Special Individual" ;D So we may need to wrap him up completely in a protective thermal barrier.

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Posted by: Lurch Posted on: Today at 04:50:57 AM Insert Quote

Depends on the individual.

I perfor to have at least one glove on, in case I do mange to touch the hot engine parts/oil.

 

 

Hmmm Lurch, let me guess - the glove is white & covered with studded jewels? Com'on you just like to do Michael Jackson impersonations...........

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oh great, now I have a mental image of lurch spilling hot oil on his crotch, letting out a squeal, quickly placing his gloved hand to protect his groin from further burns, spinning on the balls of his feet to face away from the source of the oil but then having to tip his white panama hat because he is now facing the sun. :D

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I did a hot adjust the other week (on my L24e in the R30 Skyline), but had only 15 min of light left, so I only did the first 4 valves

 

I tell ya what i got INSTANT power increase. amazing what a difference it makes!

 

Just dont overtighten the rocker cover bolts and snap one like I have done... ( I then snapped a drill bit in the bolt trying to make a hole in it for the bolt remover. FAIL... man i got mad. its fully buggered)

 

One quick question, what do you all use to re-seal the rocker cover on? I cant find the gasket (well not local enough) and have been using gooey gasket sealant stuff. Is there a sheet of gasket paper long enough? or a reccomended sealant?

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There is sheets of black gasket paper you can by at any auto parts or accessory shop but some don't stock it anymore because of lack of sales I think but it comes in lengths plenty long enough for a rocker cover gasket

 

Photo shows a bit left over from gasket making that I've done here at home...it comes in two thicknesses and the bit shown is the thin size...the thick size would be best for a rocker cover gasket

 

If you use only a sealant, I'd recommend Loctite no 3 aviation gasket sealant but the surfaces must be totally free of oil and apply a thin coating to both surfaces...leave a while before starting your engine....best to have a gasket though!

 

You should also be able to buy thin neoprene cork (more readily available than the black paper I mentioned above) at SuperCheap Autos and others stores

 

If ever a paper or cork sheet is too short, you can always "dovetail" sections of a gasket, dovetail shown in 2nd and 3rd photos

 

Pete 

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