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Dadson Racing: 2010 Revival


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Looks wrong to me as well, should be on the passenger side of the car.... Oh well, only 4 bolts and has to come out to mount the diff anyways :)

 

Tank looks awesome! All shiny and new!

 

End of the dreaded fuel smell????

 

 

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I was wondering if anyone would look closely enough to notice that :)  it has to come out for the diff install but all that stuff is currently only loosely mounted anyway because all the long bolts are going to be removed and replaced with shorter/lighter ones tomorrow.

 

It's a nice feeling knowing I'm finally making some progress.

 

Dad

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That would be this little lovely, well hidden, think I'll clean it up and get some of the dags off it before it's powder coated.

 

Looks like we have a concourse condition stock gearbox mount for sale.

 

Dad

 

P1010327_zps1051d83b.jpg

 

 

Well just back from the powder coater and now Whittie has two hungry hay burners to feed looks like we'll live with the tacky modified gear box mount for a while but it's amazing what difference a tickle up with the angle grinder and some powder coat makes.

 

P1010363_zpsd1ab42f7.jpg

 

 

 

Had the grill sand blasted and powder coated so hopefully it will stand up to track conditions reasonably well.

Dad

 

P1010365_zps9443fed1.jpg

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Somehow I knew making good progress was too good to be true so I'm back to one step forward and two back again.

 

Went over the back end fitting new short bolts and did a final tighten then went to fit the diff only to find whoever fitted the mustache bar put it in the wrong way round and to change it I had to remove everything I'd just finished fitting  >:(

 

Anyway it's all done now with the new upper diff mount trimmed to fit.

 

It really is a pleasure working under this car and not getting covered in the grease and crap we used to

 

Dad

 

P1010367_zpsac510dc5.jpg

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We'll be doing that for sure. Not sure how to implement just yet, but before the rebuild the exhaust heat on to the trans tunnel next to the passenger seat was so intense it melted the paint and bubbled the factory tar inside and out of the car. Thinking a little shroud held by standoffs to the exhaust system itself just to make it easy.

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I know it's a race car and all but this would be a perfect time to set up some outer heat shielding from the extractors. i.e shield up the transmission tunnel.

 

Thanks SS30RR you have a good point we have heat shield between the extractors and carbies already and as Whittie said we will definitely be doing something to keep exhaust heat transfer into the cabin floor under control but still considering the best way to go about it we don't intend refitting the original internal under felt against the firewall so expect the car will be noisier and hotter anyway.

 

Made a bit more progress the last couple of days repacked the cv joints with graphite grease and fitted the drive shafts and suspension so all that's left to do underneath at the back is fit and connect the fuel pump and filter.

 

Almost time to get onto some fun cosmetic stuff now :)

 

Dad

 

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P1010371_zps5ecef9e0.jpg

 

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Just looking at your top diff mount. I trimmed less of mine and come up short when tightening the nut. Makes me wonder if my diff is pointing in the right direction. :-\ I also strengthened my rear box mount a bit more by plating the centre cross bit where I can see holes in yours. 

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Just looking at your top diff mount. I trimmed less of mine and come up short when tightening the nut. Makes me wonder if my diff is pointing in the right direction. :-\

 

Hi Peter

 

I trimmed the mount in situ I had the diff mounted loosely to the mustache bar and supported on a jack so I could see fairly accurately how much to take off it currently just touches.

 

We have a R200 diff do you have the same or a R180?

 

Dad

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Hi Peter

 

I trimmed the mount in situ I had the diff mounted loosely to the mustache bar and supported on a jack so I could see fairly accurately how much to take off it currently just touches.

 

We have a R200 diff do you have the same or a R180?

 

Dad

not sure will let you know when I get home.
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Well front suspension is now good to go but fitting the front stabilizer bar was more difficult than it really needed to be because the captured nuts in the rail were slightly out of position and not centered so not a big problem or a particularly hard fix just an annoyance.

 

P1010375_zps92cdfb8d.jpg

 

 

The front cross member was modified by the previous owner with the control arm mounting point moved out and up but it was a half assed job so Will tidied it up a bit while he had it.  As the adjustable radius rod allows plenty of movement I have mounted the lower control arm further forward than it was previously potentially giving us some extra caster you can see five spacer washers to the rear of the rose joint previously it had two in front and three behind it will be interesting to hear what the wheel aligner thinks when he sees it, I'm really looking forward to getting this thing onto the track it should be significantly better handling and faster than it was before the rebuild.

 

Dad

 

P1010378_zps6ed6fa65.jpg

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Hey Simon

I agree a machined spacer would look a lot prettier but this is what came with the LCRs from the manufacturer and it does allow adjustment we may find after it's been to the wheel aligner that we have to revert to the two front three rear configuration or something else for the optimum setup......at least they are plated :)

Dad

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

While Whittie's still missing in action out playing with his newly acquired hay burner I'm starting to get into the sexy stuff with this rebuild.

 

A while ago I started fitting the acrylic quarter windows into their frames all was going well and weight saving was significant.

P1010212_zpsd99428bd.jpg

 

 

I know that this acrylic material scratches extremely easily and door windows in particular will mark quickly being wound up and down so after thinking about it for a while i figured that clear window film applied both sides would protect it so off I went to my favorite window tinter to discuss it only to be told NO CAN DO you hopeless idiot. WTF that's my little bubble burst, he said it will go on and initially look good but in no time it will blister and peel so not convinced I went to his opposition Tint A Car (tinter to the trade) only to get the same response  :(  reluctantly I had no alternative but to accept what I had been told.

 

Here I go again, one step forward two steps back, I'm sort of getting used to it now  :-\  apart from doing nothing and simply replacing the acrylic every few years the only alternative is to apply some protective polish and the best I'm aware of is carnauba wax which in the eyes of all but spray painters (Will's gunna hate me for this) it is the best polish known to man.  http://chemistry.about.com/od/foodchemistryfaqs/f/carnauba-wax.htm so I got out my little tub of wax and my orbital polisher and set to work which really made the acrylic look and feel great but unfortunately this will be an ongoing maintenance issue. 

 

For anyone whose interested the polish I'm using is P21S I came across it in my final days of running a mobile car detailing business in Perth with at it's peak had 38 vehicles on the road, it is without doubt the best of the myriad of product I tested over many years for finish, longevity and ease of use, I got it through the trade so don't know where it's available retail but here a link I found to the company. http://www.p21s.com/products/bis_100cw.html

 

P1010412_zps723285a9.jpg

 

Dad

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Not trying to be a pain in the arse so you have to take a step back, but what motorsport are you looking at doing? If it's just sprints and regularity then ignore the next paragraph, if you are looking at door to door, then sorry....

 

For door to door racing, unless the windows are tinted as the car is delivered from the factory, then all windows must be clear glass or suitable acrylic/lexcen\plexiglass.

 

If you and Whittie are looking at door to door it would well be worth getting the CAMS manual off the web and look at the general requirements for automobiles, from memory appendicies H through to about N.

 

Hope this doesn't have you cursing me and throwing things......

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Hi PZG302

 

The car is really road/race, way too modified for group S racing and not competitive in marque sports, we traditionally do regularity, sprints, hill climbs and classic rallies so no major problems there, the window material is acrylic so if we decide to get the car log booked it's no big deal to have the windows re made in clear. 

 

Thanks for your input.

 

Dad

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Hi All

 

I've been playing with the rear lights for a while now I gave them a good hot bath inside and out then machine polished them using a cutting compound which brought the flat surfaces up pretty well, I then attacked the edges by hand using Brasso which works a treat on plastic and I removed years of built up over spray and general crud then gave them a protective coating of carnauba wax.

 

P1010379_zps54e70aa9.jpg

 

 

When I had them side by side it was obvious that one is darker than the other which told me one was very dirty internally and my bath hod not fixed it.

 

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So I decided they had to come apart to be cleaned thoroughly, knowing that the resin that holds the lenses in fails with heat I put them into a 140deg oven for five minutes to soften the resin but not effect the lenses of light body.

 

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Then it was onto the chopping block to remove the lenses and find out what surprises await.

 

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No wonder there was a difference.

 

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I had a spare light body that was in better condition do decided to junk the really dirty one and go with the better one, I cleaned out the lens channel with a heat gun and screw driver then decided to repaint the reflectors with heat proof silver so that at least both lights would be the same.

 

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Then using Sika SikaLastomer-711 plastic sealant I reassembled them.

 

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So here they are ready to go back on the car.

 

P1010428_zps6a4d2163.jpg

 

Dad

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That is some nice attention to detail there Dad. I could use a Dad like you round my way!!

Just out of interest, was the dirty one from the exhaust side? I was wondering if the dirt was built exhaust fumes being sucked back into the cabin, causing that classic Z smell.

The exhaust side of my 240 looks much the same.

 

Great job on the rebuild so far guys. I'm looking forward to completion, it will be a very hot Z.

 

Mick

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Hi Mick

 

Thanks for your encouraging comments, Whittie's hoping to end up with the sharpest competition Zed in the country when it's finished but there are some good ones around and ultimately that will be for others to judge, not us.

 

Yes it was the exhaust side if you look at the pic of the light you can see that the resin had hardened and failed allowing dirt and moisture in, technology has moved on a lot from the 70s and the sealant I've used doesn't actually set hard so hopefully we won't have a repeat of the problem.

 

Dad

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