Jump to content
acf321

Lexan windows for 240Z

Recommended Posts

Has anybody used Lexan for the rear windscreen of a 240z or other model?

 

My questions are; 1) where do I get the stuff, 2) how much lighter is a lexan rear screen to an OEM screen, 3) is lexan much more noisy for a car, and 3) is Lexan easy to clean / polish and care for?

 

Rgds

 

Adam

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think Lexan is a trade name for an engineering plastic? a bit like polycarbonate I think produced by a plastics conglomerate in US called General Electric

If you are in Melbourne perhaps speak to Martogg dandenong or polypacific the owners are related and someone in tech should be able to point you in the right direction for supply or an aftermarket manufacturer of sheet. Lynton ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Most guys in group S run lexan. If anyone here runs in this they should be able to help you out. I think ausplasfab.com.au may do this for cheap rates, think benzed got his windows (except windshield) done by them. Cheers.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ive heard you can contact the firms that make windows for aircraft; like helicopters. They can shape them with a "bow" so the sheet, when it's in place doesn't pop in and out. That's why you some lexan screens with strips of alloy to hold the shape. There's a place in Dandenog called "Australian Sheet Traders" that have heaps of different materials. I got priced a large sheet of perspex for about $45 which is very competitive. I'm hoping to make my own lens covers...As for is it louder, I'm not sure but I can tell you, most of the noise from my zed comes from the front under the bonnet! With the scratching, you have to be careful with it as it is easy to mark. It's not hardened like glass. Weight saving is also a bonus. Most race cars do it!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm going to run Lexan in my fibreglass hatch, but haven't tested the suppliers yet. It's commonly used in numerous classes of racing, so shouldn't be too hard to get hold of.

 

Keep the updates coming.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was going to go with Lexan but couldn't find anyone to make them up. apparenltly there is different equipment required to shape lexan. Plus the addtional cost seemed pointless. So I went with perspex instead. I am quite happy with the result. There is a place in the UK doing lexan sets for the zeds and with postage the set is around $1000 depending on exchange rates.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I use lexan for the rear screen and side windows in my 240.

 

The rear screen is 1.8mm thick and obviously very light weight. I have held it place with screws around the edge and sitting on small alloy blocks so it looks right. As it is a race car there are no seals to worry about, nor do Icare about leaks with rain. The window does bow out at speed but not enough to worry about. If I am ever pinged for it I will run an aluminium strip from the top to bottom of the opening over the window to stop the bow.

 

The quarter windows are 3mm lexcan and cut to shape and fitted into the standard frames.

 

The door windows are 3mm thick lexcan and again cut roughly to shape and held place in the original frames with a leather strap over the window frame and push stud. Works very well, though the drivers window is usually pulled out when I am driving.

 

The big advantage is weight for me, and cost. The last shhet I got for the rear screen was around $60 from a sign writer, just look up perspex in the yellow pages and you will find a supplier near you pretty easily.

 

As ypu go thicker the weight does increase and the cost does go up.

 

I still use a standard glass windscreen for safety and also because perspex and lexcan are very hard to keep clean and unmarked, not really an issue on side or rear glass.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks PZG ..

 

I called a mob in QLD and they told me that i should not use Lexan, but instead acrylic, as; 1) lexan scratches more easily, and 2) acrylic is easier to work with. They said they take an factory piece of glass, lay acrylic over it and then place the whole thing in the oven to uniformly heat it. The heat allows the acrylic to take on the form of the glass, the edges trimmed and voilla! you have a new light rear screen.

 

The point I wanted to highlight was that acrylic was suggested as the preferred item over lexan, and i think the generic name for the acrylic item is perspex.

 

Watch the brown hornet blog to see what I end up doing, as at this stage i need to check prices and availability in Sydney.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The biggest problem with lexcan or perspex is keeping it clean and clear. Use detergents and it will end up cloudy, plus both are easily scratched. As my car is a circuit racer the side windows I don't really care aboutand the rear hatch window is replaced as needed every few years at about $60 buck a throw to get a flat piece cut roughly to size and I then trim to suit.

 

Keep in mind all my windows are flat and haven't been shaped to suit, again I don't care about the appearence compared to the weight saving. My 240 weighs 960kg ready to hit the track with the only fibreglass panels being the bonnet and front bar. The steel front gueards are lighter than any fibreglass guards available.

 

For a road car I would recommend staying with glass as the maintenance is a lot easier and it does take a lot more punishment, as well as can be polished if it is scratched.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Maybe to protect them you  could have one of those sheets like you stick to your phone screen to stop it getting scratched... but a really big one  :o

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Maybe to protect them you  could have one of those sheets like you stick to your phone screen to stop it getting scratched... but a really big one  :o

 

Just like the tear off windscreens they use in NASCAR!!!! :o :o

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Perspex cleans up easily as long as its not cloudy from a chemical reaction. Just use some really fine wet and dry.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had Ausplasfab cut a 4.5mm perspex window for my Zed. It is not as light as the 2mm stuff but still much lighter than glass and importantly it is so close to the original glass thickness that it is held in by the factory rubber (no screws). Most people don't even notice it. So far no problem with scratching etc.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ben was your rear perspex window curved like the original glass and what was the cost? Has it scratched yet?

 

What is the difference between perspex and polycarbonate? Which is better?

 

I presume having these would make the car unroadworthy?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I used flat 4.5mm perspex, hasn't scratched yet. Doesn't make the car unroadworthy as the original glass had no demister either. The original rubber is retained and crash wise the perspex is safer. You can't have a perspex front screen but as far as I'm aware side and rear windows are no problem. Polycarbonate can be cold-formed (bent while cold) but other than that has little advantage over perspex and I was told it actually scratches more easily.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

they take an factory piece of glass, lay acrylic over it and then place the whole thing in the oven to uniformly heat it. The heat allows the acrylic to take on the form of the glass, the edges trimmed and voilla! you have a new light rear screen.

 

I'll be doing this with my car. The idea for me is cost, weight and sliding side windows!!

 

By shaping the side acrylic windows I should be able to cut it to shape, drill holes in it, and have plastic, sliding side windows. Nobody I know with Lexan has this.

 

Acrylic does go cloudy but all it takes it a bit of a polish and it comes good again. Use a machine to polish it if you have one or can get one and you will never have a problem. Much like headlights on modern cars that go yellow, you can polish it right out. If it goes cloudy in a few years and you can't polish it, just get it redone, it's not expensive!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

FYI, car headlights that go yellow are due to UV damage partially from the sun, but mostly from cheap bulbs.

Use Philips bulbs and you wont have that problem, they are all UV cut quartz glass.

 

You can also get specific plastic polishes that have a UV shield in them to prevent yellowing.

Philips do a good one, as does Permatex.

Use Vuplex or Plexus for cleaning it.

Its specially formulated for cleaning clear plastics, like motorbike visors ect ect. It works really well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

After looking for ages I have finally found a reputable supplier in Braeside, Melbourne. Plasview (http://www.plasview.com.au/) make boat windscreens and have done a heap of acrylic (perspex) windows for tarmac rally cars, primarily Porsches. I have just dropped of my hatch glass and they will reproduce it for $207 - an absolute bargain. The acrylic can be scratched but if they are not deep can be easily polished out. If you want to take advantage of my window being their call them now and place an order as they will be moulding it immediately after Easter! Their number is 9588 0799 at 13 Hall Street Braeside (at the very end of the street).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm a little late to the party to reply to this thread, but as an FYI I had the rear window and both side windows done in acrylic, with tinting, for $400 cash. That's heat formed to shape, cut, edges rounded, holes cut, 4.5mm (glass is 4mm) tinted acrylic. I couldn't believe how cheap that was considering I'm paying WA prices, so just thought I'd put this post up as information for those thinking of going this route and wondering what it might cost.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yep, use the rear glass window as a mould to get an acrylic one made from, the curved surface which will be reproduced keeps it rigid in place, unlike a plain flat piece. Consider fixing also, get rid of the heavy rubber edging and get the replacement made oversize so it may be Sikaflexed in place directly onto the hatch.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×