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Air-con flushing fluid


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#1 T.A.P

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Posted 31 January 2010 - 02:58 PM

I wanna clean all the residue inside the system before recharging it, went searching on Google but had to luck in finding any flushing fluid. Can anyone recommend a place for buying those stuff, I live in WA btw.

#2 Gareth. J.

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Posted 31 January 2010 - 04:00 PM

I've never heard of it. All you need to do is replace the dryer in the system. The dryer/filter will catch any contaminants in the system. Then get the system nitrogen evacuated it will remove any moisture, then vac out and charge refrigerant. There pretty robust systems, you can just vac out and re-charge it.

#3 T.A.P

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Posted 01 February 2010 - 10:15 PM

The thing is, Ive got bits and pieces off from a few cars and I wanna make sure they are clean b4 the recharge. Ill try compressed air first and see what happens.

PS: I did found some fluid but only in US  :-[

#4 Gareth. J.

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Posted 01 February 2010 - 11:01 PM

Oh ok,  :o learn something new everyday, I'd say it would be an oil type of product.

Have they been open or were they removed from sealed systems? If they were sealed but without gas then they should be clean enough, if they ahve been open and are dusty and so on inside give em a blow out. There will be oil that circulates with the refrigerant so any contaminants will be taken through to the dryer/filter. They do handle a fair amount of junk, If you use comp air, Just make sure there's no moisture left in the system as it will freeze and cause blockages in the expansion device(t.x. valve), and it wont work well, if at all.

Or as extra insurance... When you get it charged ask them to break the vacuum with nitrogen (the vacuum will freeze any moisture, then when nitrogen is introduced it will boil off the frozen particles) then vac it again before charging. This will ensure a spotless system, and won't cost much more. Then enjoy the cool  8)

#5 T.A.P

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Posted 06 February 2010 - 10:55 PM

Sorry the the late reply, Ive tried compressed air and also vacuumed the system. Unfortunately the system dont hold vaccum very well, Ive just applied the joins with metal bond sealant and re-fitted. Gotta wait for the sealant to cured and vacuum the system again.

PS: Thanks for the tips  ;)

#6 dazzed

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Posted 07 February 2010 - 09:53 AM

Do you have bursons auto parts there, as they have a solvent called , simply solvent B, it cleans residue off and drys leaving no residue, the thermal expansion valve will be the biggest problem as they sieze up when a system has not been used or opened up to the atmosphere at left sitting around and it cannot be cleaned, if it is a old school system dont use R134a as this will blow the system to pieces, hope this helps

#7 Gareth. J.

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Posted 07 February 2010 - 10:24 PM

If it won't hold a vacuum there's a leak somewhere. Try pressurizing the system with nitrogen 500-600kpa should be enough, then mix liquid soap with a little water, spray this over any flares or connections. If there's a leak it will bubble up.

#8 T.A.P

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Posted 09 February 2010 - 10:03 PM

Thanks for all the tips, Im facing with another problem. The AC belt, I tried the 15A0890 but its a little it short, I went to Repco and asked them for the correct belt, they did their magic and told me that its the 15A0945 so I ordered one. Got it today but the damn thing is loose, I pulled the idler all the way to the top and the slack is somewhere around 20mm. The car runs, belt turns but its sorta jumping up and down and will probably fly off sooner or later...Im confused, is there another way to adjust the tension or have I got the wrong belt?

#9 Gareth. J.

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Posted 09 February 2010 - 10:47 PM

A bit of play is ok, 20mm doesn't sound too slack. But if there's no adjustment left on the idler then as the belt stretches it may slip or get thrown off. Try using a bit of string to go round all the pulleys like the a/c belt would, mark where the two points meet. Take this to a bearing supplier/store and they can size up the belt with your string example.

#10 T.A.P

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Posted 09 February 2010 - 11:13 PM

That is exactly what I did in the first place, using the string, which I got the 15A0890 (I think) but its very tight I couldn't even wrap it around the main pulleys let alone the idler as well. I might have to try that belt again tomorrow and use some excessive force.... :P

#11 Gareth. J.

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Posted 10 February 2010 - 03:34 PM

Try backing the compressor mounting bolts off, so that you can push the compressor pulley in towards crank pulley. Then retighten bolts and check the belt tension.

#12 mayhem

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Posted 10 February 2010 - 07:49 PM

im sorry but im licenced in air condition service, and some of what has been said is a little disturbing
you must be very carefull on giving advice when you dont know what the law is first and the procedures are in service and fitting .....
first of all yes there is a flush we use to clean out all contaminates ..... you cant use this through the compressor !!! small alloy particles build up in the system due to the compressor wearing out over its use .... the receiver drier is a filter but if there is grime in the system after the drier it can block the TX valve, you need to flush!
nitro is used to test for leaks under high pressure 400psi or there abouts  its not liquid nitrogen!! its just an inert gas used to find leaks.... vacuum is used to just take out air so all that is put in the system is R134a not mixed with air or any other gas
R134a can be used in any car if its done right!!! its known as retro fitting  for R12 systems
the pressures used for R134a are diffrent so pressure switch's will need to be changed for starters... an a/c system blows up cause someone had no f'in idea what they where doing
like the guys out the back of wreckers filling systems up with LPG!!!!!!!!!! mmm
just make sure you get the right advise  ;)

#13 Gareth. J.

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Posted 11 February 2010 - 03:29 PM

LPG lol! Gives new meaning to 'bang for your buck'  ;D    I too am fully licenced in commercial refrigeration and air conditioning.  ;)

#14 mayhem

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Posted 11 February 2010 - 06:57 PM

yer but car ac which i do, is diffrent to comercial ac ... the conditions that the 2 work in are different im not bagging anyone im just here to offer my advice

#15 Gareth. J.

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Posted 11 February 2010 - 07:45 PM

The principles of refrigeration are the same as are the conditions. The application is different. Have repaired car a/c's also,  between the both of us we should be able get him ready to have it gassed up at a service centre. Two heads are better than one  :D

#16 T.A.P

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Posted 11 February 2010 - 10:54 PM

Alright I got the belt on...I went with the smaller belt (15A0890), had to take out the compressor and idler then wiggled it around abit..but it is on  ;D . The correct belt for the A/C would be the 15A0925, so for those who are thinking of doing the AC conversion...this should help you get there.

What refrigerant can I use in the system? I heard that R134a molecules is too small for the rubber pipe? Anyone heard of Hychill or Freeze12, they all supposed to be replacements for R12...which one is most suitable for these old AC system?

#17 stevo_gj

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Posted 11 February 2010 - 11:03 PM

I heard that R134a molecules is too small for the rubber pipe?


That sounds silly, but a quick google says theres some truth in it. Apparently you need a special 'barrier' type piping, or rubber pipe coated with mineral oils to prevent the molecules permeating the pipe walls. Google will give you tons more info on it

#18 mayhem

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Posted 14 February 2010 - 08:16 PM

What refrigerant can I use in the system? I heard that R134a molecules is too small for the rubber pipe?
[/quote]
bahahahaha who told you that??? thats gold !

#19 Mr Camouflage

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Posted 14 February 2010 - 11:09 PM

One for the experts:

I have 2 cars, one needs gas, the other has gas, but i'll be wrecking that car.

Anyway to recover the gas from one car and pump it into another?

#20 T.A.P

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Posted 15 February 2010 - 02:52 AM

What refrigerant can I use in the system? I heard that R134a molecules is too small for the rubber pipe?

bahahahaha who told you that??? thats gold !


No body in particular.

I have done my share of Advanced Organic Chemistry in uni so I know that the R134a molecules size is smaller than the R12's therefore there a good chance that it will diffused through the old hose, but what at rate? Well I dont know, if it is at an acceptable rate then I guess its fine but if I have to re-gassed every 6 months then I might as well change the hoses to copper pipes.





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