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Kato Kids BMW M3 powered 71' 240Z


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#721 luvemfast

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Posted 09 January 2017 - 09:03 AM

Much excitement for you Dave!

Great job  8)



#722 KatoKid

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Posted 11 January 2017 - 09:29 AM

Moving on to other things.....I'm going to use the dreaded R31 rear calipers and have followed Scoota's updates and recommendations http://www.viczcar.c...rsion-sep2016/ 

 

I filled and finished the original mounting holes in the brackets and had an engineering shop machine the bore of the caliper brackets as required. No offence to Scoota (Mark) but I didn't want to risk the engineer knocking back the significantly modified brackets so I've elected to leave them pretty well untouched and have ground areas of the hub casting to get the brackets to fit and to rotate upwards as much as possible from the normal 3:00 o'clock position as per Mark's suggestions, hopefully this will be enough!

 

Grinding the hub casting was pretty easy and didn't take long.....probably easier than modifying the brackets.

 

Rear caliper bracket 3.jpg  Rear caliper bracket 2.jpg  Rear caliper bracket 4.jpg  Rear caliper bracket 1.jpg

 

 



#723 zed240au

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Posted 11 January 2017 - 11:40 AM

Great to finally hear it running sounds good david



#724 KatoKid

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Posted 11 January 2017 - 11:50 AM

Thanks for your help too Mick.

 

Will be interesting to hear what she sounds like with some load and throttle opening!



#725 hmd

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Posted 11 January 2017 - 01:28 PM

I had an E36 M3 10 years ago and the power delivery around 4000 rpm and upwards is just addictive, the torque comes on like a train.

 

This engine in a much lighter S30 body will be something else.



#726 KatoKid

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Posted 11 January 2017 - 06:14 PM

This engine in a much lighter S30 body will be something else.

 

That's what I'm expecting....E36 is 1450 kg and my car should be between 1100 and 1150kg so at least 3 x big blokes lighter!



#727 KatoKid

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Posted 11 January 2017 - 06:24 PM

Full set of front a rear wheel bearings and seals.....$95.00 from Bearing Wholesalers in Bayswater.

 

Wheel bearings.jpg



#728 Gareth. J.

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Posted 13 January 2017 - 04:37 PM

Sounds great Dave, can't wait to hear it at full noise!



#729 Dirt

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Posted 17 January 2017 - 08:56 AM

Looks like an amazing project. I am very, very impressed. That BMW engine looks and sounds great.



#730 specialp3

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Posted 19 January 2017 - 06:57 PM

It is a great idea specialp3 and it looks great in your photo (as does everything else!).

 

Did you use normal heat shrink or the newer-style with glue lining? It seems to me that the glue lining might help it stay in place better and might help in forming a sealed end.

 

The only thing to be careful of, however, is that the glue lined type has a shrink ratio of 4:1 compared to 2:1, so you would need to size it appropriately.

It is also less flexible than normal heat shrink, but that shouldn't matter here.

 

The good thing about using heat shrink is that its pretty cheap and you could easily remove it and try again if you mess up first go.

Just normal old jay car shrink.

 

Been in the engine now for 5 years and is still prefect.

 

I have seen that you can now buy heat shrink that is like a sock so you can have the ends of the wiring tags covered. Will get to redoing this one day.



#731 specialp3

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Posted 19 January 2017 - 07:02 PM

Moving on to other things.....I'm going to use the dreaded R31 rear calipers and have followed Scoota's updates and recommendations http://www.viczcar.c...rsion-sep2016/ 

 

I filled and finished the original mounting holes in the brackets and had an engineering shop machine the bore of the caliper brackets as required. No offence to Scoota (Mark) but I didn't want to risk the engineer knocking back the significantly modified brackets so I've elected to leave them pretty well untouched and have ground areas of the hub casting to get the brackets to fit and to rotate upwards as much as possible from the normal 3:00 o'clock position as per Mark's suggestions, hopefully this will be enough!

 

Grinding the hub casting was pretty easy and didn't take long.....probably easier than modifying the brackets.

 

attachicon.gifRear caliper bracket 3.jpg attachicon.gifRear caliper bracket 2.jpg attachicon.gifRear caliper bracket 4.jpg attachicon.gifRear caliper bracket 1.jpg

Hi Dave, 

 

Very nice.

 

Stewart Wilkins has a disc rear end that we developed when I built my car, it retains the original handbrake and works extremely well. I know he has ready to bolt on kits available. Many hours (50 if I remember right) went into to making this work for engineer approvals.

 

I haven't followed your entire thread so not sure what front brakes you are using, the matching 4 pot Nissan callipers on the front does look good :)

 

The attached photos are not great but give you an idea.

 

I am unsure of forum etiquette so let me know if attaching photos to your thread is not cool. 

Attached Thumbnails

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#732 KatoKid

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Posted 19 January 2017 - 09:02 PM

Thanks Aaron.....all good with the photos.....that's what it's all about, helping each other out.

Didn't know SW did this, I've come this far so will see if I can make it work.

#733 KatoKid

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Posted 12 February 2017 - 08:26 PM

Its been a couple of frustrating weeks......hot, and my shed is like an oven....plus sealing and electrical gremlins.

 

When I first started the engine in the car everything was fine except the fuel gauge was doing weird things and certainly not reading correctly. I had calibrated the sender before the dash even went into the car and was confident this was correct so I started to dig into it but couldn't find any issues. I thought it was a problem with the sender in the tank so I removed the tank and probably just as well as the supposed nitrile rubber gasket I had made for the fuel module was being eaten by the fuel.

Fuel Module gasket 1.jpg

 

All the research I did and a few phone calls said that nitrile was the correct choice but it certainly wasn't working for me! I bought another piece of nitrile from another suppler but it looked and felt exactly the same as the original piece I used to make the gasket so I decided to use rubberized cork which is a more traditional material.

Fuel Module gasket 2.jpg

 

The cork looks and feels really robust but I'm still not convinced so I'm doing my own shed durability testing to try and confirm the best material. 

Fuel Module gasket 3.jpg

 

 

I checked the sender on the fuel module and all looked good. When I tried to re-calibrate I realized something was wrong and when I checked the gauge I found the earth point I had used was dodgy....so I pulled the tank for no reason but lucky I had anyway!

 

I put everything back together and ran the engine to check for leaks, all was good for a few minutes and then the engine stopped....uh oh... this isn't good. Initial investigations said the fuel pump wasn't working. The pump is controlled by the ECU and it seemed to be getting power when required but wasn't working all the time, it would run for a few seconds and then stop and when I recycled the ignition it would run again and then stop once it had built some pressure....very weird. I checked my wiring harness and earths and everything seemed in order and tried running external power full time to eliminate ECU issues but still no luck. My trusty multimeter told me the fuel pump was going open circuit when it stopped had continuity at other times, I hadn't touched the fuel pump or wiring when I was checking the sender but something wasn't right ...so time to pull the tank again! Cutting a very long story short..... where the pump earth wire connects inside the fuel module had a loose and poor connection and I could see where it had been arcing which had made the connection progressively worse. The pump would run but as soon as it built some pressure and started to draw more amps it would stop due to the poor connection. I cleaned this up and put some more tension on the connector and all was good.....much relief to have clearly identified the problem as I was worried I would put it back together and it would run fine but without really identifying the issue......only for it to rear its head and some time a long way from home! Fugging electrickery.

 

On to some good news....all of my suspension bushes arrived from  zcarsource.com. I went with rubber instead of urethane (cos not racecar) and also bought ball joints, spindle pins and cotter pins. The front sway bay pivots and mustache bar bushes ended up being urethane which I was a bit annoyed about but wont use the mustache bar bushes anyway, everything else was genuine Nissan except the ball joints.

Suspension parts.jpg

 

Time to bolt the diff in but it needed a good clean and repaint beforehand ......its a R200 3.7 with a Kaaz two way LSD and the front mount for the RT mount is on as well.

Diff 1.jpg  Diff 2.jpg  Diff 3.jpg

 

The factory ZF 5 speed I'm running is not an overdrive 4.20 (1), 2.49 (2), 1.66 (3), 1.24 (4), 1.00 (5) with 5th gear being 1:1 the acceleration should be...um....swiftish, especially considering the donor car had a 3.15:1 final drive. It might be a bit frantic and I could be be looking for a taller diff ratio eventually but its got a 7,500 rpm red line so I may as well use it :)

 

 

 

 

 

 



#734 Lurch ™

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Posted 12 February 2017 - 08:38 PM

A word of advice Dave - ditch the RT diff mount & buy a SWM modified cross-member instead.

The RT unit transmits unpleasant NVH into the car.



#735 PB260Z

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Posted 12 February 2017 - 08:47 PM

Hi Dave

I have to agree with your comment "Fugging electrickery" I reckon we have all been caught out by this black magic - I know I have.

Cheers

PB

Edited by PB260Z, 12 February 2017 - 08:48 PM.


#736 PeterAllen

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Posted 12 February 2017 - 08:49 PM

...all of my suspension bushes arrived from  zcarsource.com. I went with rubber instead of urethane (cos not racecar)...

 

David. 'Squeak'... I also went for ... 'squeak' ... rubber instead of ... 'squeak' ... polyurethane. When I installed them ... 'squeak' ... I didn't use any rubber grease... 'squeak'. I would suggest... 'squeak'... you do.


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#737 KatoKid

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Posted 12 February 2017 - 09:01 PM

A word of advice Dave - ditch the RT diff mount & buy a SWM modified cross-member instead.

The RT unit transmits unpleasant NVH into the car.

 

I'm kinda committed with this set up as I need to control pinion angle due to BMW guibo joint drive train angularity thingy. Whats the SW set up?



#738 ZED660

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Posted 12 February 2017 - 09:28 PM

Hi Dave,

 

I have attached a phone shot of an SW diff mount.  

 

Cheers,

 

Geoff

 

OOPS!!  I have made several attempts and the shot won't load, probably my inferior computer skills!! I will try and sort it out.


Edited by ZED660, 12 February 2017 - 09:49 PM.


#739 Gareth. J.

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Posted 12 February 2017 - 09:55 PM

I agree with Lurch and Geoff, I also switched out the RT diff mount for the SWM type. The SWM type is fantastic and fail proof Ifthe bush ever lets go!

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#740 KatoKid

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Posted 13 February 2017 - 06:25 AM

Thanks guys.

 

SW set up won't fit due to the way I've modified the cross-member to run the exhaust.

Diff Crossmember 3 .jpg

 

I will see how it goes and if needs be make some changes within the constraints I have to work with, the Energy Suspension mount is a captive type so cant separate.

 

Cheers


Edited by KatoKid, 13 February 2017 - 06:30 AM.





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