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Kato Kids BMW M3 powered 71' 240Z


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#41 KatoKid

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Posted 06 October 2010 - 01:27 PM

Thanks guys.

I don't really have much experience with this sort of work and I find it takes a long time to complete just little fabrication jobs. Gets a bit frustrating sometimes and Ive got to remind myself to take the time to do it properly. Ive got impatient with a few things and ended up starting over as I wasn't happy with the end result.

Next up is installing the strengthening sections that run the full length of the rocker box. Ive got them made and cut to size so will hopefully get them installed in the next few days.

David.

#42 luvemfast

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Posted 06 October 2010 - 02:43 PM

take the time to do it properly. Ive got impatient with a few things and ended up starting over

One thing I've learn't from working in R&D is to just do it right.
Sometimes taking the shortcut, takes longer.

Keeping the motivation up is the hardest part when doing major work on cars and is the main reason you see unfinished projects come up for sale.

#43 KatoKid

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Posted 22 October 2010 - 01:15 PM

While I had the sills off I wanted to add some strength to the chassis....see this thread for details and thanks to all for opinions  http://www.viczcar.c...pic,7610.0.html

Engineers may still want more but it was easy to do and I believe adds some meaningful stiffening.

Had some beads rolled into them and then used the borrowed spot welder to install them with full seam welds at both ends where it joins with the original sections. Particularly strengthens the rear dog leg area where 2 post hoist pads are normally placed to lift the car.

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#44 KatoKid

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Posted 22 October 2010 - 01:16 PM

Dog leg area...

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#45 MaygZ

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Posted 22 October 2010 - 02:41 PM

Looking very neat.  Good work.

#46 NZeder

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Posted 22 October 2010 - 03:47 PM

Love the your work - nice to have access to swaggers ;)

#47 KatoKid

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Posted 05 November 2010 - 08:52 AM

One thing I neglected to add....before you remove the old sills you will need to mark a reference point for where the original sill is positioned so the gaps for the front guard and doors align with the crease in the front of the sill. With this marked and the templates you know exactly where the new sills need to be positioned.

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#48 FLEXZED

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Posted 05 November 2010 - 09:04 AM

Hey Mate

i would be very careful, going by the Mark from the previous sill as the "new" reproduced sill might be out by at least 5-10 mm( as i found out )

ideally you want to have the guard and door  on and bolted in place and then you can get better measurements

my 2 cents worth

Loui

#49 KatoKid

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Posted 05 November 2010 - 09:21 AM

Yeah, thanks Loui. I compared the new sills and old sills with reference marks at both front and rear where they crease and they were pretty well spot on.

#50 KatoKid

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Posted 05 November 2010 - 09:25 AM

Now on to the fitting of the new sills and after doing this I know why panel beaters only use reproductions as a last resort. When I received the new sills I thought cool, shiny new metal, how good is this going to be. Well it ain't that good. Once you trial fit the sills you will realise that there is a fair bit of work to get them to fit and be properly positioned. They don't look it when you first compare them but mine were considerably different for both sides, as you would expect there is a fair bit of excess flashing that needs to be trimmed but the way they came out of the press was quite different. Either the tool is different or the process is different. I may have got less than perfect pieces and other people may find that the quality and fit is better but you won't know until you try.

The left hand side was the worst in that it was just way too deep when measuring from the top to the bottom of the sill. As you can see in the photo, when I positioned the old sill over the new with the tops in the matching position the new sill was between 10 and 12mm deeper than the old sill at the bottom.

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#51 KatoKid

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Posted 05 November 2010 - 09:55 AM

This meant I could position the top of the sill in the correct place on the car but that would leave the bottom lip of the sill where it needs to be welded to the lower edge of the inner sill hanging well below where it needed to be. I could with fair bit of force bend and clamp the sill in place in the middle of the sill but the compound shape of the front and rear “boxes” of the sills prevents you from being able to bend them so after much deliberation there was no other way than to make cuts in the front and rear of the sill boxes to allow the whole length of the panel to be slightly squeezed together so the distance from the top edge to the bottom edge matches the inner sill.

Once I had made the cuts in the front and rear “boxes” of the sills it was pretty easy to bend the whole sill slightly along its full length. I bent it in two places……..along the line which forms the gap with the door and along the bottom where it returns to meet the inner sill. I had to take more material out of the cuts as they closed up as I squeezed the top and bottom edges together. Bit hard to explain….pictures may help.

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#52 KatoKid

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Posted 05 November 2010 - 09:56 AM

More...

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#53 KatoKid

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Posted 05 November 2010 - 10:08 AM

Sill was then tacked on with some plug welds and seam welds where required and the cuts in the boxes were welded up and smoothed.

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#54 KatoKid

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Posted 05 November 2010 - 10:54 AM

On to the RH sill. This wasn’t nearly as troublesome as the LH side, it was slightly too deep but with a bit of force it could be made to fit. The main issue was that the lower edge wasn’t formed properly. It was more of a larger radius bend than a nice 90 degree like it should be so I had to spend some time to make the bend more defined. In the photo Ive reworked the first 100mm and you can see how the rest is not as defined.

As with the LH side it required lots of trial fits before final check of positioning with the templates and welding. I’m pretty happy with the way the templates worked out. As Loui suggested, ideally you should hang the doors and guards to confirm the position and gaps but this really is a PITA and using the templates I’m 100% sure the new sills are in exactly the same place as the old ones.

The shell is going to a panel shop on Saturday to have the sills properly welded on with their 3 phase spot welder as I now have 3 layers running the full length of the sills and my borrowed single phase spot welder just won’t cut it.

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#55 luvemfast

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Posted 05 November 2010 - 07:28 PM

Good job, looking good.
Whats your background? Engineering?

Guessing you bought those clamps for the job as they look brand spankin new.
Next time, rub them in the dirt so it looks like you're an old hand  ;D

#56 Zedback

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Posted 05 November 2010 - 09:29 PM

Loving your work, keep up the detail!

#57 KatoKid

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Posted 10 November 2010 - 03:03 PM

Not an engineer Simon, I'm a motor mechanic by trade but haven't worked on the tools for over 20 years. Ive built a few cars a long time ago......
SBC, Toploader and 9 inch into an LJ.
SBC, glide, 9 inch into a 2WD Hilux before mini trucks were cool (are they?).
460 BBF into an XD for a mate.
And lastly a BBC, glide, 9 inch, 3/4 chassis, ladder bar, tubs etc...into a MkI Cortina.

Dropped the car off to the panel shop on Saturday morning and they had it for a few hours as their 3 phase spotty is only air cooled and needed a rest after every few welds. Plug welded the remaining holes on the base of the A pillar and all that's left to do is trim they excess off the top and bottom of the sills once its back on the rotisserie.

Was nice to see the car on wheels and moving again....even if it was on a trailer!

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#58 Lurch ™

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Posted 10 November 2010 - 03:17 PM

Looking mighty good, Dave!

#59 KatoKid

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Posted 10 November 2010 - 03:36 PM

Next job......I found some rust holes in the front of the LH chassis rail above where the sway bar mounts. Could see some spot welds so envisaged there was a bracket of some kind inside the rail to reinforce the mounting. I cut out the offending area and found what was left of a reinforcement inside. The reinforcement was pretty well gone so I drilled it out and cleaned up the surface rust on the bottom of the chassis rail. The top and both sides inside the rail looked surprisingly free of rust. Seems anywhere they have layers of steel in these cars it attracts the dreaded rust worm.

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#60 KatoKid

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Posted 10 November 2010 - 03:44 PM

I had some 50 x 50 x 2.5 Duragal right angle that was perfect for a new reinforcement. Had to make it in two sections and then weld it together in situ to get it inside the chassis rail as well as plug welding where I had drilled out the original spot welds.

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