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Kato Kids BMW M3 powered 71' 240Z


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#21 reverendzed

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Posted 27 March 2010 - 05:40 PM

Awesome work Dave! What a difference it will make having it on the 'spit', great news that floors and rails look really good, I'll look forward to watching your build.
Rev.
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#22 KatoKid

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Posted 22 June 2010 - 04:20 PM

Been a bit distracted with other things but have manged to get some work done on the 240.

Striped all the bitumen sound deadening from the floor with a heat gun...what a PITA! Good news is that I didn't find any surprises.

Next was to get started on the rust repairs....both strengthening plates on the chassis rails just forward of the firewall had rust holes in them so I drilled the spot welds and then cut out what was left of the rail just enough to get back to some decent metal. Because if the location I decided to overlap rather than butt weld the new section of rail in place and then made a new strengthening plate to replicate the original and plug welded it in place. Will seam seal prior to painting to exclude any moisture.

The passenger footwell had been clobbered by something in its previous life and the PO had used a bit of heat and a hammer (not very successfully) to bash it back into shape but had left it with some serious creases and no amount of massaging was going to get it looking good so I decided to cut it out and start again.

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#23 KatoKid

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Posted 22 June 2010 - 04:22 PM

Foot well....

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#24 peter t

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Posted 22 June 2010 - 04:40 PM

Good luck with the project mate. Hope to find a 240 or 260 to play with after I finish the 2+2. Had to keep looking over my shoulder to make sure the wife couldn't see me typing the last bit. ;)

#25 Lurch ™

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Posted 22 June 2010 - 06:08 PM

Looks good Dave! Keep that up & I'll be out of a job... ;)

#26 RB26DETT

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Posted 22 June 2010 - 09:47 PM

great progress, keep the photos coming along :)

one of my car is built not long after yours, chassis #793

#27 gav240z

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Posted 22 June 2010 - 10:19 PM

Car is 2/71 and chassis 728, is this early enough to have a 71A fitted from factory? Any comments appreciated.


Yes my 240z is early 72 and had this yoke style driveshaft and gearbox fitted, although the previous owner decided to refit my car with a later box and L28 engine.

Looks like your car was originally Safari gold, any plans to go back to this colour? I realise it's not everyone's cup of tea.

#28 KatoKid

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Posted 23 June 2010 - 05:18 PM

Yes Gav, going to keep it Safari Gold.

#29 KatoKid

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Posted 04 October 2010 - 02:08 PM

Well its been a while since I posted. Ive been working away steadily, not making speedy progress but happy with the way its proceeding. Figure its a long term project so not loosing any sleep over how long its taking.

My floors are really good with the the exception of the (common) rust holes in the rear of the passenger side rail were it terminates so Ive patched the floor and fabed a new section of rail.


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#30 KatoKid

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Posted 04 October 2010 - 02:27 PM

When I bought the car I knew the rust was better than most in some areas and worse in other areas. The dog legs and the front of the LH sill were particularly bad.

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#31 KatoKid

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Posted 04 October 2010 - 03:08 PM

This cars a keeper and I couldn't live with myself if I didn't do as much as possible to make it rust free so I bought some full length reproduction sills and plunged into the removal and replacement. I haven't done this sort of structural panel work before so I was apprehensive and also concerned about the shell bending once I removed the old sills so I decide to take it off the rotisserie for this work. I needed to build a trolley for latter panel and paint work anyway so I picked a couple of convenient points as mounting locations that would also ensure the shell was well supported while the sills were off.

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#32 KatoKid

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Posted 04 October 2010 - 03:35 PM

After cutting away bits and pieces I realised how bad the RH Dog Leg was....the rear section of ridge that forms the bottom of the sill was completely gone where the sill joins the rear guard. This section is made up of 4 layers ....the inner sill, a strengthening piece, the outer sill and the 1/4 panel all needed to be reconstructed and the LH side was just as bad. I tackled the reconstruction of the basic inner sill and inner guard before I removed the rest of the sill.

Damn its hard to get a good looking weld without burning holes in the original steel! And that's with cutting it back to good metal too.

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#33 bryan3976

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Posted 04 October 2010 - 04:30 PM

very nice progress im still scared to fix my sills


#34 Zedback

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Posted 04 October 2010 - 05:23 PM

I tackled the reconstruction of the basic inner sill and inner guard before I removed the rest of the sill.

Nice work, great to see you bringing her back from the edge.  I have the same to do on both sides of mine, which oddly enough is #00618 but plated 4/71.

#35 .

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Posted 04 October 2010 - 05:27 PM

Nice work, great to see you bringing her back from the edge.  I have the same to do on both sides of mine, which oddly enough is #00618 but plated 4/71.


oh you must have got one of the ones the mechanics held on to in Japan for a year to fang around in and then sent to Aus to sell ;)

#36 KatoKid

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Posted 06 October 2010 - 09:14 AM

So once I had reconstructed the lower sill edge and inner guard sections on both sides it was time to tackle the actual removal of the old sills.

The reproduction sills are not an exact copy of the originals, not far off but they require trimming of the edges of the pressing so you really don't have good references when installing the new sills. I had some advice that it was critical that the new sills were welded back on in the correct location, otherwise the panel gaps between the doors and the sills would not be parallel. I tried hanging the doors and checking the gaps prior to removing the sills but this is a PITA as it takes ages to adjust and get the doors in the right location and then you have to remove them anyway to work on the sills and then refit them to check position of the new sills.....all seemed too hard so I decide to make some templates to ensure the lip of the sill that determines the lower door gap was in the correct position. Pictures explain better....



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#37 KatoKid

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Posted 06 October 2010 - 09:25 AM

The actual removal of the old sills was pretty easy. Take the time to ensure you drill the spot welds out properly and they pretty well fall off, probably took about 45 minutes of drilling each side.

I used these P&N Spot Weld Drills, about $30 each and ended up having to use one each side. Keep the speed low and the pressure up and they work really well.

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#38 KatoKid

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Posted 06 October 2010 - 09:52 AM

Once I had the sills off and had a look at the rust inside I was extra glad I had made the decision to replace them.

The front of the rocker box ( I think that's the correct term) on the RH side was in good condition but the LH side had rusted through so I had to make  a new section and weld it in after cleaning up and prepping the metal underneath. I managed to borrow a spot welder from a family friend and this made it a heap easier than using plug welds. The spot welder is only a single phase and doesn't have a lot of punch but for this simple two layer weld it was good enough. Once I have the new sills tacked on I will take the shell to a panel shop that has a full size 3 phase spot welder as most of the spot welds will be over 3 layers and the single phase just wont cut it in my mind.

Since I'm going to all this effort it didn't make sense to put it all back together without some additional rust proofing measures so I decided to go the full POR-15 route. Don't know if it really works but figure it cant hurt and besides it makes me feel better! Most of the rust in the rocker box was just surface rust which clened up pretty well. I followed the POR-15 clean and etch instructions and finally gave it 3 coats of grey after masking the edges that will be spot welded.

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#39 MaygZ

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Posted 06 October 2010 - 11:01 AM

WOW!  You do good work.

#40 luvemfast

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Posted 06 October 2010 - 11:31 AM

WOW!  You do good work.

Agreed, looks like theres plenty to do too
Good luck and keep it up




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