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Kato Kids BMW M3 powered 71' 240Z


KatoKid

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Not if you have to fit the adjuster knob each time you want to change the setting. Mine are permanently mounted and can be accessed by simply turning the wheels as they are external to the strut. 

 

My fronts are the same as yours with that flexible cable knob sticking out at the bottom of the strut, access will depend on how much backspace the wheels have I'm thinking. Still prefer to adjust at the top.

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I've been child minding all weekend so nothing significant done. 

 

Had a couple of wiring tidy up jobs to still complete and used this https://www.techflex.com/prod_f6n.asp Its dear as poison but was great for wrapping the really bulky main power and earth from the battery

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and also the massive spaghetti loom for the ECU and relays into the cabin.

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Easy to use and looks really good.

 

Now I'm confident its not coming apart again I also installed the large rubber grommet to seal the main ECU and relay harness. Took a long time to find a grommet that would be big enough  and the right shape to enable passing the ECU plug and relays through the tunnel to the engine bay without de-pining the whole lot. Happy with the way it fits and seals well.

Cabin and engine bay side:

post-101170-0-70922600-1495953804_thumb.jpg post-101170-0-31595200-1495953803_thumb.jpg

 

And after all this the car wouldn't start. Powered up and fuel pump but no starter....grrrrrr. Started checking everything and pretty quickly realized that I had been a bit rough with the antenna ring on the BMW key and had pulled the wires out of the loop. Manged to break the plastic housing open, get access to the loop and re-solder and the car started straight up. Will need to get another antenna ring though.

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Antenna ring picks up the code that is stored in the key which confirms the correct key and allows starting.  

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Thanks Simon.

 

Still way better than friggin around with aftermarket ECU's!

Edited by KatoKid
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  • 2 weeks later...

Josh from MCA sent down some "hardware" to space down the strut shaft.

 

Hardware consisted of a new top spring perch with a bearing and a new thicker spacer to go under the pillow ball and a new thinner retaining nut on the top side. I had to wind the shock body down into the lower tube 10mm to compensate but otherwise it was an easy enough job.

 

Adjuster cant be retain but no big deal to keep one in the glove-box and use it as required.

 

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That looks better Dave. Lucky you are dealing with a local company who care about their customers. Might pay a bit more but you get better results and a product that does what you want it to.

 

Jeff

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Yep, good support for sure Jeff.

 

Undecided on strut brace as yet Simon......decisions more for when its registered and on the road

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Bit of an update....

 

The replacement top spring perch has a bearing compared to the original one without. I asked Josh why the change and his response:

 

Main reason for replacing the top one with a bearing was to absorb some more top peg shaft so that it didn't poke through, and at the same time provide you with an upgrade.  Basically the bearing helps the spring not get compressed when turning the steering wheel which can create a noise sometimes when it springs back.

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All coilover struts should have a thrust bearing at the top just like OE. The monoballs commonly used are good for aligning the tops with the strut but should not be solely relied on to take the vertical load for several reasons.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Been away for work and busy with other things.

 

I have place a substantial order for interior parts from MSA but a few items are on back order so waiting for them to come in before they ship.

 

Had to find longer wheels studs as I need studs 8mm longer front and rear to get sufficient thread engagement.

 

Standard studs are:

Knurl diam         - 12.8 mm

Thread               - M12-1.25

Length (front)     - 32mm and shoulder 10mm

            (rear)      - 39mm and shoulder 14mm

 

Its hard to find exactly what I need in M12-1.25 so as I'm changing both front and rear you get more options if you go to the more common M12-1.5 

 

 
 
I needed nuts so I've ordered studs and nuts but you can order studs separately and they arrived today.
 
Just need to press them in which unfortunately meant disassembly of front and rear hubs..... not difficult but just a PITA grrrrrrr!
 
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I pressed new studs in the rear of my 1600 in the car. Don't necessarily need to disassemble. From memory it was a bit of seating with a nut and some engagement with a brass drift and hammer.

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Not possible for me Brad due to the rear brake caliper brackets, not enough space to get the old studs out let alone trying to get new longer studs in place

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  • 2 weeks later...

Wheel studs are all done and hubs reassembled, perfect fit and length for what I want.

 

A couple of weeks ago I came out to the shed and there was a puddle of fluid under the front of the car. Investigation revealed it was brake fluid leaking from a port between the front and rear outlets on the side of the brake MC.

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Google searches confirmed this leak is common for this type of MC when they have an internal leak. Checking confirmed that  a new MC from Nissan was >$700. With no non genuine alternatives available I went the local brake shop  who said that re-sleeving for $220 was the best alternative. They've always done good work so I was happy to leave it with them. And picked up a few days later.

 

Once the wheel studs and hubs were back together it was time to refit the MC and bleed the brakes again, first time I did this it was a breeze, as easy as any bleed I've ever done but this time I couldn't get any fluid to pump to the rear brakes. After much mucking around and brake fluid usage I relented and pulled the MC from the car and tried to bleed it on the bench...still no luck. The front bled fine but each type I stroked the rear reservoir would result in bubbles and an increase in the level of fluid.........definitely something not right here. Being a Sunday I wasn't prepared to wait until Monday to return it to the brake shop so I pulled it apart and it was pretty apparent what was wrong, they had reassembled the piston for the rear system incorrectly and had put the spring on the wrong side of the return/check valve:

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How it should be:

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Not happy Jan!

 

Anyway, put it all back together and it bled fine.

 

Went an fronted the brake shop yesterday and showed them pictures.....they sort of apologized but not with much conviction.

 

On to some good news.....I've allowed myself one piece of bling on this car and picked it up from Freddy yesterday:

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Edited by KatoKid
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Dave that console is a very sexy bit of kit..........

I have been looking at my battered old console contemplating what to do with it. I think I know what to do now, thanks.

I don't get your thought that you only have one piece of bling for the project. I have seen may bits starting with the BMW bit ;-).

 

 

Jeff

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Yep, deliberated over consoles for a while as repaired or standard reproductions just weren't doing it for me. Very happy with the decision.

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I'm in love with that console. Special order? I couldn't see it on their website

 

Yep, but email Freddy and he will do one for you.

 

He stopped them for a while to make some alterations. I haven't tried fitting mine as yet but it will require making some brackets which is no big deal as they are quite different to the standard 240Z console, more of a 240/260 mash up.

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I bought my Landcruiser OEM headlights a couple of weeks ago so thought I shouldn't put off the inevitable and install relays. My headlight switch shows signs of overheating but still works fine so figure this is a must do.

 

I had already run a big fat power wire direct from the battery to the back side of the RH radiator support panel (through an 80 amp fusible link) to provide power for my fans and controller so it was simply a matter of taping into this power source and wiring just like any other headlight relay....right......no!

 

Didn't take long to realize that Mr. Datsun had decided to wire his headlights different to most others. I've learnt that you are better off to consult Mr. Google sooner than later and avoid bashing ones head against the proverbial wall and one of the first hits was this thread http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/8756-headlight-wires-mystery-relay-upgrade/. Good old Viczcar comes to the rescue again!

 

Anyway, followed Benny's diagram and had no issues at all. Lights are much brighter than the pale yellow they put out before.

 

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Tick another task off the list.

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