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Carb & manifold cleaning + Bead Blasting = Easy


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#1 RB30X

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Posted 22 November 2009 - 10:35 AM

I'm sure many of you are cringing at the thought of bead blasting carbs just as I was but after testing it on my old SU's, the results were quite good. I built myself a wooden bead blasting cabinet yesterday and thought I'd test it out. As you know, after installing bling braided fuel lines and speed flow fittings on the L24, all of a sudden the carbs and manifold got terribly dirty.;D
I've tried a few weak chemical cleaners and autosol etc but nothing really removed the stains. After I excepted that some of the throttle shafts were bent and would require dissassembly, i gave them a hit with beads.

Before:
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After:
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The blasted carb next to the others on the manifold, which I did hit with beads in a few small sections to see how they would work.

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One question I do have now is should I coat the new surface in a sealer? I have a small spray can of automotive paint clear, would that work or is there a better metal sealer/cear coat I should use?

Cheers

#2 hunterzed

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Posted 22 November 2009 - 11:18 AM

I've heard of people using hairspray to coat things to give a very thin protective coating. Not sure how that would go on hot areas though. What about a spray on wax coating. I know you can get heat resistant coatings like this. Go to Russco's paint supplies and have a chat to them on Duckworth st. They helped me out heaps when I was racing my Patrol. They're usually pretty helpfull. Another guy to chat to would be the owner of Bayswater rd radiators. He has a lot to do with motorsports up there and of course the guy on near ford that races a zed. I can't remember his name. He's a bit exxy sometimes though. Oh and if you're looking for replacement window and door rubber then go to C. Ede's on Mcilwrath st South Townsville. They have heaps of different rubbers there and good prices. If they don't have it in stock they can probably order it in. Just thought I'd throw those in there for you in case you didn't already know about them up there. ;)

#3 WogsRus

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Posted 22 November 2009 - 02:39 PM

If you really want to clean them up, USE SODA BLASTING, mate i don't know how i lived without soda. I used it on my N42 head and boy oh boy, like new, only takes away organic compounds, fantastic. I made up a little hand blaster and works a treat, all it is is a hose with a football pumping nozzle stuck into it in the direction of flow and hay presto, soda blaster.

#4 Sirpent

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Posted 22 November 2009 - 02:54 PM

Pictures please and a non patented drawing of the configuration would be nice.

#5 Sirpent

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Posted 22 November 2009 - 03:01 PM

In the meanwhile, surfed the net and found this, seems there are some useful ideas out there

http://www.aircooled...p/soda_blaster/

But I think WR-Us is on to something with the football pump tip, does it give you a more controlled localised area when directing the soda?

This set up looks like it would have way too much flow.

#6 nizm0zed

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Posted 22 November 2009 - 03:03 PM

home built soda blaster??? Hell yea...
Pics so i can copy your ideas thanks ;D ;D

anyway, depeding on what finish you want on the carbs will give you an idea what to do with them.
If you wanted them shiny, you'd need to sand them down, then polish them (an electric toothbrush is handy for getting into difficult spots)
If you want to keep the standard cast alloy look, get them as clean as you can.
Its also a good time to smooth off any casting marks, if they are obvious.
There is a real nice VHT paint, that is a high temp non gloss cast alloy finish.
Put a few coats of that over it, and they'll never dull off.
They are also easier to keep clean.
The real trick is attention to detail, if you make sure you dissasemble everything when you do it, you wont have screw heads and plugs painted over.

If you want to keed the raw alloy finish with no paint you'll just need to clean it off more often.

Whatever you do though, dont clear over the raw alloy.
It'll go yellow and flake off over time, and its a MASSIVE pain in the ass to get it all off.

#7 Sirpent

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Posted 22 November 2009 - 03:06 PM

By the way, this thread has screwed around with my head as I also have triple DCOE's that need cleaning, so surfing this afternoon I came across a mob in Melbourne who can ceramic coat aluminium, going to look into it this week and will post back on the forum.

Cheers

John

#8 WogsRus

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Posted 22 November 2009 - 03:48 PM

i'll take a pic in just a sec and some parts i did.

It is VERY easy to do

#9 hunterzed

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Posted 22 November 2009 - 04:07 PM

yeah that'd be great. Specially if its something that we can easily set up at home.  ;D

#10 Sirpent

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Posted 22 November 2009 - 04:23 PM

UM, Guys.........

Scroll up to the link at one of my last posts.........

#11 WogsRus

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Posted 22 November 2009 - 04:29 PM

Yeah essentially what i did, give it a try works a treat

#12 hunterzed

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Posted 22 November 2009 - 04:34 PM

Thats great. I'll definately be doing something like that. Here is something that was posted on Hybridz as well. Not for alloy but still along similar lines to this thread.

http://www.videojug....-to-remove-rust

#13 ZED660

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Posted 22 November 2009 - 04:58 PM

RB30x,
FWIW, about 3 years ago I had my manifold and triple webers glass bead blasted and I then coated them with Glisten PC which is one of the PPC products (the makers of POR15).  I am more than happy with the result, there is no yellowing and any petrol stains can be easily removed with a spray of carb cleaner.  I am going to use the same stuff on the polished alloy wheels of a classic motorcycle I am restoring.  See link
http://ppcco.com.au/...t_glistenpc.htm

#14 Sirpent

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Posted 22 November 2009 - 05:22 PM

RB

Sounds like the same type of coating used on new OEM alloy wheels, any chance of a pic of your weber / manifold set up?

Cheers

John

#15 RB30X

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Posted 22 November 2009 - 06:05 PM

Sounds like the go this coating stuff you speak of. I should've checked this thread earlier this arv. I've done the rest of the carbs and manifold and the one I did yesterday had already started oxidising on the surface where my acidic hands had touched it, so I had to do it again. I had some clear coat left in a tin so I tried that to see how the finish was. I was very happy with the result. The surface soaked up the clear and you can't really see that it has been applied. I wasn't ever going for polished bling look, just a new surface finish which I think is what I got.

What did it take me so long to discover bead blasting????????

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#16 Sirpent

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Posted 22 November 2009 - 06:08 PM

Look fresh clean and very impressive, Im feeling a whole lot better about eventually doing mine one way or another.

Great Job !




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