Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
cracker

Stereo Install

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

 

Im trying to install a pioneer head unit into a 240z that I intend on using as a daily driver, but I cant seem to get it to work. The previous radio that was installed (also aftermarket) would turn on but I could get any sound out of it. I have connected the head unit where applicable eg. battery, acc, speaker wiring, grounded the unit etc but cant even get it to turn on. Has anyone else had problems or experience installing aftermarket head units?

 

Cheers, James

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Best tool you need when installing a deck in any car is a test light and to find out which wires are for speakers is a small battery; either a fresh 9V or small gel cell. Something with enough "umphh" to get a "click" out of the speaker. Crude but it works well for me. Find your permanent 12V+, Acc 12V+ with the test light and ground to the chassis and you can't go wrong.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i'd put it in for you if i lived in adelaide, thats my neiche.. spelling

 

If only you lived in Adelaide then! You could install my stereo and I could give you a spelling lesson!  :P

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ok here we go, to start off with

1) i would run a new wire from the battery to the cabin, i would recomend running it through the rubber gromit near the battery the easiest way to do this is with a piece of stiff wire or a old wire coat hanger, push the wire through the grommit from inside the cabin then in the engine bay tape the cable to the wire using eletrical tape. the reason why i say run a new wire is that i had nothing but trouble with the 12v constant in my car also thi wire should goto the yellow wire on the new head unit.

 

2) locate the blue wire from memory it should be your accessory wire if not its the black with red stripe on it, it may also be different between models which ever wire it its it should have no power when they key is off  but when you put the key into the acc position it should have roughly 12v. if you cant locate this acc wire you can always run it from your ignition barrel from memory its also the light blue wire, this wire goes to the red wire on the new head unit.

 

3) get a good earth point i used one of the screws holding down the shift boot this wire goes to the black wire.

 

4) as for the spakers your on your own with that one it just needs a bit of hit and miss other than that you can take out the speaker and see what colour the wires are it worked for me quite well.

 

5) if you want to run a sub you can use the new power cable you have run to the head unit  bityou will need to extend it to the rear of the car or where your amp is you will also need to supply the amp with a new earth and also a acc wire which can be found in the back of the head unit it will be a thin blue wire.

 

if you run ito any more problems just post or pm me and il will try to help as much as i can.

 

 

cheers pauly

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ok here we go, to start off with

1) i would run a new wire from the battery to the cabin, i would recomend running it through the rubber gromit near the battery the easiest way to do this is with a piece of stiff wire or a old wire coat hanger, push the wire through the grommit from inside the cabin then in the engine bay tape the cable to the wire using eletrical tape. the reason why i say run a new wire is that i had nothing but trouble with the 12v constant in my car also thi wire should goto the yellow wire on the new head unit.

 

2) locate the blue wire from memory it should be your accessory wire if not its the black with red stripe on it, it may also be different between models which ever wire it its it should have no power when they key is off  but when you put the key into the acc position it should have roughly 12v. if you cant locate this acc wire you can always run it from your ignition barrel from memory its also the light blue wire, this wire goes to the red wire on the new head unit.

 

3) get a good earth point i used one of the screws holding down the shift boot this wire goes to the black wire.

 

4) as for the spakers your on your own with that one it just needs a bit of hit and miss other than that you can take out the speaker and see what colour the wires are it worked for me quite well.

 

5) if you want to run a sub you can use the new power cable you have run to the head unit  bityou will need to extend it to the rear of the car or where your amp is you will also need to supply the amp with a new earth and also a acc wire which can be found in the back of the head unit it will be a thin blue wire.

 

if you run ito any more problems just post or pm me and il will try to help as much as i can.

 

 

cheers pauly

 

Thanks Pauly,

 

Ill have to play around with running a new constant power cable through to the dash because I think thats where im encountering problems. Having said that I couldnt get the head unit to even turn on using the accessory wire. There must be a dodgy connection somewhere so ill keep looking.

 

I probably wont install a sub or go overboard im just pretty keen on getting some tunes going for the drive to work etc maybe a pair of 6 inch or 6x9's at the rear, depending on fit.

 

Best tool you need when installing a deck in any car is a test light and to find out which wires are for speakers is a small battery; either a fresh 9V or small gel cell. Something with enough "umphh" to get a "click" out of the speaker. Crude but it works well for me. Find your permanent 12V+, Acc 12V+ with the test light and ground to the chassis and you can't go wrong.

 

I may just do that. Only problem being is that I have no idea if my speakers work! haha

 

Thanks for the help all.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i had the same problem with my install my acc wire was working fine for almost 2 yrs then it decided to just stop putting out current so there is now a new wire rean and i have had no issues at all. a test light will help heaps or a multi meter as for your speakers they will work one of mine had a massive tear and no cone and some how still managed to function the sound was awful but there was sound.

 

cheers pauly

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

At the very least to install sound systems you really need a test light,

 

I've install a heap of sound systems and wouldn't bother with out a multimeter.

also as soon as you get a half decent system you should have an Ohms meter aswell (resistance)

 

I have an automotive multimeter which has everything I need including Ohms, I don't own a test light.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It seems you have some issues with your wiring setup, no doubt due to its age and or previous install, I would take it all out and start new.

 

Why don't you set everything up on the front seat including NEW wiring for all your components and see whats what, I would forget wiring up to accessories ( Ive had this issue also ) and run and in-line gold fusible link directly to your battery

 

No doubt your new head unit came with pre labeled and numbered wiring etc etc telling you what goes where, a test light is all you will need unless your running mutiple components and need to check variables

 

There is also a very good " how to " article with pics on here from a member who installed a retro unit

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You do need an Ohms meter when installing different speakers to different amp and head unit configurations. Some manufacturers of speakers don't specify Ohms

 

I'm sure as most of you will know, If the speakers are the wrong Ohms, the head unit or amp will fry in a very short amount of time

 

 

I'm sure James won't have a problem in his setup, best way is for him to get in there and give it a go himself.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

All radio systems are pretty tolerant having an average ohmage from 2ohm to 8 ohm. You would have to series or parallel several speakers to exceed these ohmages. Realistically it's the current which burns out the preamp on the head unit, rather than the ohmage load the head unit is seeing, its simple ohm's law, voltage, inductance, resistance. 

 

For a basic install, a multi meter would be nice to have, but a test light is all you need. If you were linking a headunit with a pre amp equalizer and individually sending freq's to each cone then you would need to invest in knowledge in knowing what your creating, and an ohm meter.

 

Running a new constant ve wire, a switched ve wire and an earth is all you need to do. Then run new wires for the speakers. If the ve wires are not up to scratch, you would have to assume that being routed in the doors etc, the speaker wires would be the same or at least worse. So running new speaker wires would be a good option too.

 

For a hint, the head unit usually has the wiring diagram on the unit itself, or the documentation or the box at least. Getting in and having a go is the best option, though damage can occur if it doesn't go right.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Some problems I've encountered using a multimeter to find + volts in a car is the meter can say 12V but at what current? could be in the milliamps and not enough current to run a deck. Could have a high resistance connection somewhere and the meter can show 12 volts but you connect anything and it won't run! Test lights will either be on bright or be very dim. Tells you straight away what sort of power is available. I've lost count of how many decks I've put in..trickiest one so far was a 280ZX! Wiring was ok but mounting the deck was a PITA! Test light is all I ever used.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had same thing with my unit.... Traced through and found that the wires went under the centre console, voltages all checked out. But, when i screwed it down too much the speakers stopped working! Was a complete head F@!$K! At least i had a new stereo to use. hehehehe.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oooooh, if you are going to use a new ''BRIDGE" wire make sure it is fused!! Start at 5amp no more!!!! If fuse keeps blowing its a dead short or earth fault (wire rubbed through or shite connetion/earth). Try continuity test between connection points, then its a process of elimination.  Get a wiring diagram. Or lay on floor and go from ign/switched +12v then follow through the circuit, thats how i did it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

a little trick i found is to use a old bike tube and put it over the connectors going to the speakers this stops it from shorting out the speaker wire alternative tape it up with sparky tape.

 

 

cheers pauly

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Pauly,

 

A couple questions on your instructions, if you don't mind...

 

Your Step #1: I understand your reason for running a new wire. But, if I did not want to do that, can you tell me what color the existing wire is that connects to the Yellow wire on my new stereo?

 

Your Step # 2: You said "locate the Blue wire" or " Black with Red stripe". My stock stereo had a set of 3 blue wires (1 blue, 1 blue/white, 1 blue/red) which went to a female ended adapter plug. That connected to a male ended adapter plug with matching color wires. Is that where you intend to find the "blue wire" in your Step #2 instruction, or is there another blue wire I should be looking for?

 

If one of these blue wires are the right one, what do I do with the other 2?

 

There are several other wires that went to the old stock stereo that don't seem to have anymore use. Have you found that to be true as well?

 

Thanks for the good info on this post.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey,

 

I just wanted to add some additional info I figured out.

 

When replacing a stock stereo in a 73 (at least this is how mine is), the constant wire color is blue. It connects to the red wire coming out of the stock radio. This is a stand along wire (meaning it isn't coupled with other wires inside a connector block)

 

The acc wire is also blue and it is one of the 3 wires bundled in the 3 prong connector that connects to the radio. The 3 wires consist of blue, blue/white, and blue/red. I don't know what blue/white and blue/red do, but the solid blue is the acc, which would go to the red wire of the new stereo being stalled, per Pauly's instructions.

 

These were my findings at least.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A quick check with a test light, and while connected switch the igntion on and off will confirm if it has power with the ignition switch. A test light is a usefull tool needed to connect a stereo...check also for permanent 12V too. $4 from any auto place.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think the triple block with the blue, blue/white and blue/red might be:

 

blue - radio acc line

blue/white and blue/red for the power antenna.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×
} };