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Major Diff problems..


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#21 nedloh312

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Posted 22 June 2009 - 06:14 PM

Yer, will be replacing it anyways :)

#22 xa1973

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Posted 22 June 2009 - 07:10 PM



Or you can install one of these puppies.......

Solid mount.........

#23 nedloh312

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Posted 22 June 2009 - 07:16 PM

Was considering but it's a daily so... :P

#24 zed240au

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Posted 22 June 2009 - 08:19 PM

i used a solid mount like that for my r200 install works fine but diff does clunk with it in
and since then have read concerns about the fact your relying on one bolt seen pics of thes mounts ripping out
leaning towards installing a ron tyler style mount diff mount mounts diff from above with insulated mount

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#25 nedloh312

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Posted 22 June 2009 - 09:01 PM

I have seen pics of what solid diff mounts can do after a long time.. there was a pic of the chassis that had caved in on itself from the torture of a solid mount...

Anyways, it arrives on Friday night so it will be in by Saturday lunchtime.... Then will be able to drive without pussyfooting hearing clunks whenever i shift... It's been off the road for awhile becuase i was afraid something was going to get damaged lol :P


#26 zedevan

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Posted 23 June 2009 - 10:29 PM

leaning towards installing a ron tyler style mount diff mount mounts diff from above with insulated mount


I'm also planning on installing one similar to what you have pictured (have the insulated mount sitting here somewhere) - my only concern is how to install it in the right location so the crossmember still lines up. it seems like it would take a bit of effort? (maybe i just didn't enjoy removing and lifting the diff as much as i should have?!? specially the second time since the hole spacing on the flange was different by about 2mm!)

actually looking at that picture again - is the normal mount not used at all? i know it isn't required but figured for rwc/engineers it would be easiest if it was?

picture from Sinisha's car - http://www.viczcar.c...tach=2285;image although in later ones the rest of the stuff is there too?

#27 620Z

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Posted 24 June 2009 - 10:14 AM

Normal mount is on the bottom and the brace or cradle secures the top. Ligning up won't be a problem. All the specs are on HybridZ. Mine works well.

#28 nedloh312

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Posted 24 June 2009 - 11:19 AM

here is mine. though i did reinforce it bit more on the top and sides.





haha, is that diff mount welded in? To get it out, your going to have to cut the bolts of right?

#29 620Z

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Posted 24 June 2009 - 11:37 AM

Nah mate the brace is bolted in four places with in the Zed Tunnel and those bolt holes are alreeady in the cars Chassis. Buggered if I know what they were for. Lurch might know.

#30 nedloh312

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Posted 24 June 2009 - 11:39 AM

Nah mate the brace is bolted in four places with in the Zed Tunnel and those bolt holes are alreeady in the cars Chassis. Buggered if I know what they were for. Lurch might know.


rbz260 posted with with the mount that normally holds the chain but there was a mount welded onto the bolts... :P To get it off, you would have to cut the bolts off or take the mount off the chassis...

#31 nedloh312

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Posted 24 June 2009 - 12:56 PM

http://designefx.net/zed/diffMount/

:D:D
Just arrived, paid yesterday morning. arrived just then :P Genuine nissan diff mount, 116$ all up (95$ + 11$ express posting)

Will put it in tonight ;)

#32 620Z

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Posted 24 June 2009 - 03:20 PM

I think you are talking about two different things. The diff brace pictured is not the same set up for the chain system. The chain system does not have to be welded in if you don't want it to be.

#33 nedloh312

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Posted 24 June 2009 - 03:45 PM

someone posted something but deleted it...

He had the original chain setup there but the bolts had the mount welded on... This means that the bolts couldn't leave the original brace lol

http://www.viczcar.c...tach=8774;image is what rbz260 posted..

see :P http://www.viczcar.c...pic,5157.0.html

#34 zedevan

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Posted 24 June 2009 - 11:34 PM

To get it off, you would have to cut the bolts off or take the mount off the chassis..


its just a collar through which the bolt is going - so you'd just undo the bolts and the diff would drop down. this is what i was going to do, but since it's possible to buy the other sort and therefore cheaper by $50-100 i figured i'd just grind off the tabs and mount it the other way

Normal mount is on the bottom and the brace or cradle secures the top. Ligning up won't be a problem. All the specs are on HybridZ. Mine works well


So craig are you saying your car still runs the nissan mount underneath the diff?

To me it seems since you need to drill the holes to mount the cradle over the top it leaves room for stuffing it up, as their position is important so it lines up perfectally with the stck mount and therefore isn't putting either of them under any stress?

#35 620Z

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Posted 25 June 2009 - 08:44 AM

Yes Even the normal diff mount remains underneith. It's the cradle that goes over the top. And like I say above "there are NO new holes to be made in the chassis". So ligning it up is not a problem.
The problem is that under excelleration the front of the diff lifts up. More so if you have a powerful car. The original diff mount is not real strong. So it flex's up under power. Over time things wear out and this movement becomes greater, creating the natorious clunk etc. The brace over the top simply stops the front of the diff raising under power. The bottom one remains in the same position.
Correct me if I am wrong anyone. But that's my understanding.

#36 NZeder

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Posted 25 June 2009 - 10:36 AM

Yes Even the normal diff mount remains underneith. It's the cradle that goes over the top. And like I say above "there are NO new holes to be made in the chassis". So ligning it up is not a problem.
The problem is that under excelleration the front of the diff lifts up. More so if you have a powerful car. The original diff mount is not real strong. So it flex's up under power. Over time things wear out and this movement becomes greater, creating the natorious clunk etc. The brace over the top simply stops the front of the diff raising under power. The bottom one remains in the same position.
Correct me if I am wrong anyone. But that's my understanding.

That is my understanding also - I have one of the RT mounts - but I am going to use the normal mount and not use the Chev mount on the RT bracket like the hyrbidz guys do - but I will use a bumpstop type mount over the top to just apply some pressure and limit/control the up-flex via this bumpstop.

#37 nedloh312

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Posted 25 June 2009 - 01:09 PM

So to increase the longevity of the diff mount, i should get a brace made up that goes over the top of the diff?



#38 zedevan

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Posted 25 June 2009 - 05:44 PM

So to increase the longevity of the diff mount, i should get a brace made up that goes over the top of the diff?


my last new diff mount lasted me less than 2 years...

And like I say above "there are NO new holes to be made in the chassis". So ligning it up is not a problem.


my car currently has a belt of some sort going between two rods over the top of the diff (same setup to what rbz260 has used here http://www.viczcar.c...pic,5157.0.html to mount his cradle over the diff) so i dont see how there are no holes for me to have to drill to mount a bracket which is mounted like http://www.viczcar.c...2.0;attach=8754. is one a 240z and one a 260z?

the reason i'm asking if hte bottom mount is still used at all is since the GM transmission mount is encapluated so it isn't actully required

*edited as i worked out what RT stood for

#39 zedevan

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Posted 25 June 2009 - 06:02 PM

after looking at the picture of rbz260's car more, are there holes there that are currently not being used? (circled in red)

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#40 nedloh312

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Posted 27 June 2009 - 05:23 PM

The mount fixed it :D holy F*** it's awesome now :D




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