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mtopxsecret6

3.1l rebello engine

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No problems - I keep my eye and ear to the ground on the hunt for more all the time too :)That would be a L26 you are after then - same block P30 code, L28 crank and 83mm bore only different is the block is notched for the larger exhaust valves of the L26 E88 head = this is what you want anyway just get a L26 engine and be done with it.

 

Now if you were thinking a L28 with a L20a crank then you are talking different. Displacement would be around the factory mark at 2.4l but with a much shorter stroke of 69.7mm vs the 73.7mm of the L24 but with the larger bore of 86mm vs stock L24 at 83mm should rev hard.

 

Nah I was thinking of using the original L24 block that came with the car from the factory. The original owner still had it and was throwing it out on ebay. I picked it up from him and have it in the garage. I still want to build the L31 but I figured I'd practice by building up the original L24 first and see what I can do with it.

 

Like I could use L24 rods with the L28 crank in the old L24 (P30) block. Then fit some slightly oversize pistons. Stick an early E88 or E31 on it and do some port work valve work, then stick the Triple Mikuni's on it with a wild camshaft. Keeping it original and matching numbers.

 

Then again maybe I'm just being too romantic about it. Hence the reason I decided to travel, I couldn't make up my mind properly and I didn't want to blow all my coin on an engine yet. I guess I was thinking along the lines that I had most of the parts I needed already and may as well use them to build that engine. Otherwise I'll be waiting several years to finish the project.

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Wouldn't it be sweet if we had enough Zs in Aus to buy a cheapo one as a 'budget' racer the same as those guys (i think swiss?) in that top gear episode who build race cars to a set budget (say $3K) and if someone offers to buy the car at the end of the race they have to sell it for $3K.

 

That would be such a good way of learning to how to build your own motor, and you could experiment as much as you liked.

 

I visited Josepf's house the other day and he had the the head out and was in the process of bolting the carbys and exhaust manifolds back on, made me crave to have a project Z.

 

Yeah it can be good fun alright. Its not fun when its off the road for a long period of time though. As much as I miss driving the Zed, I do miss having something to tinker with and work on. There is a certain satisfaction from taking something run down and crap and turning it into something wonderful again.

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I agree with the principle. Racing on a budget is fun. But theres no need to wait for a 3K category. You just have to set your own budget and be diciplined enough to stick to it. It also means putting yourself up against oponents with a similar car or budget and ignoring the hords that seem to have endless bank accounts.....You just can't compete against those cars.

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Thanks, can't hurt to have some spares. With 4 more I can complete 2 sets.

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I heard you can use Honda pistons instead of L24 ones, KA24 I believe?  Any pros\cons to this?  (could be rods I'm thinking of, not sure)

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From Wiki Wiki Wa Wa Pedia :)

 

LD28

 

The LD28 is the diesel-version of the L28 engine.

 

Applications:

 

    * Nissan Gloria 430 and Y30

    * Nissan Cedric 430 and Y30

    * Nissan Laurel C31 and C32

    * Nissan Skyline C210 and R30

    * Datsun 810

 

[edit] L2.9 ~ 3.2

 

When fitting an L28 with an LD28 crankshaft with standard bored cylinders it increases the engine displacement from 2.8 L (2753 cc) to about 2900 cc. It was never actually produced by Nissan but it is a very easy and common modification to the L28 done by many Skyline and Z car enthusiasts. The most popular modification is the 3 mm overbored(89 mm) L3.1 liter(3096cc) some add a turbo or two, but the more common settup is the triple Solex or Weber carburators. The only downside is that it is very hard to find an LD28 crank in good condition but fully counterweighted 83 mm stroke and even 85 mm stroke cranks can be bought from aftermarket companies such as Crower.

 

Without increasing bore size, fitting an L28 with the longer stroke LD28 crank will only result in 2.9L. In Japan and other parts of the world the popular "poormans mod" was the 3 mm~ overbore using the 89 mm ~ 90 mm Honda FT-500 / XL-500 motorcycle pistons along with the L14 rods. The real poorman would use the much cheaper/heavier 89 mm FJ20 or even KA24 engine pistons. All of these cast pistons and had low endurance and would often fail when subjected to high compression and advanced ignition timing compared to custom forged pistons from makers such as Arias or other forged pistons.

 

I like that description 'the real poorman'. I think the Honda PFT-500 / XL-500 motorcycle pistons would be much lighter than the heavy KA24 ones.

 

 

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Thanks for the info about KA24 pistons gav :)

 

Google translate gave me this on the surgetank:

 

HKS is a surge tank. The attachment is used to SOREKKUSU, I come up hard goods. I KYABUTABO also be used for OER SUPOTSUINJEKUSHON. NA SOREKKUSU might look good with INDAKUSHONBOKKUSU instead. I have seen KAKKOYOKATTA the past. State is cracking, and cracks. For long storage period, there have been things such as internal corrosion of aluminum. I'm going to clean it a little shake if the BURASUTOMEDIA. There are no mounting screws,

NOKURE, please NORITA.

Please feel free to question. We also exhibited, please see if you like.

 

Cracks and internal corrosion don't sound too good, and it's 51,000 yen already! :( Wonder if it's worth breaking in to the piggy bank for.

 

Edit: And now I see the end date was May 18 2007. :( :( Oh well, at least my money is safe I suppose...

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I managed to grab another set of L14 rods. So I now have 12 in total. Enough for 2 sets of 6 or 3 sets of 4 :).

 

These don't come up very often at all. So when they did I had to grab them.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&item=390051335307

 

To me these are much harder to find than an LD28 crank.

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Spool conrods have been making L28 rods for a while now and I enquired a while ago as to getting a set of custom rods made up to L14 length.  There is a minimum 36 rod order limit.  :'( I thought I would mention this while people are talking about the honda piston/L14 rod combo.  Spool conrods are cheaper per conrod than it is to fully prep the standard ones.

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I was only thinking about that just a few days ago, spool with L14 rods and they could mas-market it around the world.

 

Anyway spotted some stuff in Japan auction related to 3.1L stroker engine.

 

First off we have a LD28 Crank that has been warp corrected, journal lapped and balanced:

http://page6.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/f80384857

 

Tomei adjustable sproket

http://page13.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/r55223670

 

Kameari conrods with ARP studs

http://page8.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/h130051636

 

Kameari 89mm pistons

http://page13.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/r55509277

 

lastly,

 

Kameari cam 77 degree G model

http://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/118500164

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Good to see my Ebay trolling past time payed off for you Gav, now if you come across a complete set or 260Z 2 seater door trims/cards (genuine SH) in your travels a heads up would be appreciated........... ;)

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Hi mate, the biggest issue with the standard stroker setup is the rod ratio. The deck height really isn't high enough to give you a decent rod ratio with an off the shelf piston. With the run of the mill setup using the 133mm rods, you get about 1.6:1 which is shit. If you can get your hands on the ld28 block you are in business as it's got another 20mm deck height so you can run something like an l20b rod or even a modified chev rod.

The only other option would be custom made forgies with a pin height of about 25mm, this way you could run a 3sgte rod without too much fuss.

Big throttle plates are a must, I would say 48mm minimum, preferrably 50mm. No carbs, if you are serious.

Just my thoughts on the matter.

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