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#21 woza01

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Posted 15 April 2009 - 10:21 PM

yeah dude if you can get away with $400 for that upgrade then youve done real well.

Hey Guys, seriously....whats with all the concern about dust seals ?.......is there some written law in your state that specifies that you MUST have dust seals ?, or are you worried about maintenance etc ? be interesting to hear some points of view.

I know over here in WA, modifications are strictly monitored, and I have several mates who have had no problems getting their Wilwoods passed, without even a mention of dust seals.....LOL...it will just be my luck that Ill fail my engineering check due to lack of dust seals  (touch wood !!)



#22 PeterAllen

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Posted 15 April 2009 - 10:41 PM

It physically pains me to say how much I paid for the brakes and wheels but I'm happy and that's the important thing. Note: the suspension is still to be powdercoated.

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Woza's bracket fitted but rear main caliper still to be mounted
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#23 woza01

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Posted 16 April 2009 - 01:20 AM

Peter....

Time to develop some 'selective memory' and forget how much you paid.....point is, its all done, and youve got excellent gear now, and at the end of the day (if youre anything like me), have probably saved money by getting the good stuff first time around, instead of buying something that you are never really happy with, only to can the idea and get what you wanted anyway ! haha

By the way, Nice handbrake setup...wher'd you get that ?  ;)

#24 zedevan

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Posted 16 April 2009 - 07:09 AM

.......is there some written law in your state that specifies that you MUST have dust seal


I was under the impression it was written in an ADR? but maybe its just become like the rumour you can only go up 2"s in rim diameter size - which isn't ever written anywhere

I'd just hate to have all the nice brake stuff on there then have it be the reason my car wont pass an eng cert

#25 PZG302

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Posted 16 April 2009 - 07:47 AM

Dust seals are needed for the reliability of the brakes.

I run Wilwood 4 spot calipers in the front of my Z and need to strip and clean the calipers every time I run in the wet to make sure that any gunk that get into pistons is cleaned out so there is no chance of getting into the caliper bore and scratching. Once that happens then you may not be stopping as the fuid can get out without pushing the piston along. Not fun when pulling up at turn 2 at Eastern Creek.

#26 Neuby

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Posted 16 April 2009 - 08:22 AM

I'll be doing my brakes over the next week or two, so I should be able to give you a better estimate on how much it will end up costing. Parts wise it should be under $400; Labour (some things will have to be done externally by friends so depends what they want) I'm hoping isn't too much.
As for clearance with the Watanabes, I can give you a rough measurement from hub face to caliper so you can check; or even bring a wheel to check. Will update when I know more. Another thing that I won't add into the price, I'll be recoing the calipers just to make sure they are 100%. Don't want to find out by accident soemthing isn't right with them as they are from a wrecker.


I'll be looking forward to this with keen interest!

#27 matsdat

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Posted 16 April 2009 - 09:47 AM

That makes two of us, deffinitely keen to see the write up for R33 brakes. From what i understand over here in SA, you have to have an ADR approved braking system, i was told that this means basically getting brakes from another car because they are fully approved and tested. The wilwoods dont come out on a production car, i think, so arent fully tested or ADR approved. This is important because i will be going through Regency to get it all legal. I havent spoken to an engineer about the Wilwoods, just Transport Services over here.

#28 Scando

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Posted 16 April 2009 - 01:44 PM

the r33 calipers would be nice but I'm now not sure they will work with my watanabes.


What size are your watanabes?
You shouldn't have issues I wouldn't think.  You just need to find a disc with the right diameter and offset to suit.

#29 Zedman240®

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Posted 16 April 2009 - 02:05 PM

I found an old pic from a previous 260 zed I had with the same brakes I'll be putting on my 240. This is with the 286mm DBA106B disc and R33 caliper with 260Z hubs (they are needed for this mod).

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#30 NZeder

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Posted 16 April 2009 - 05:39 PM

So the DBA106B is the Ford hub based rotor with the following specs?

287mm x 24mm with 58mm hat?

#31 woza01

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Posted 16 April 2009 - 10:21 PM

Dust seals are needed for the reliability of the brakes.

I run Wilwood 4 spot calipers in the front of my Z and need to strip and clean the calipers every time I run in the wet to make sure that any gunk that get into pistons is cleaned out so there is no chance of getting into the caliper bore and scratching. Once that happens then you may not be stopping as the fuid can get out without pushing the piston along. Not fun when pulling up at turn 2 at Eastern Creek.


you do realise that there is still a main seal in the bore that seals the caliper piston to the body ?....this seal prvents fluid escaping at high pressure, so its bound to stop dust getting in under no pressure....


#32 luke_mcmahon85

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Posted 17 April 2009 - 12:01 AM

yeah, i think the danger is that dirt getting into the bore would over time damage that bore lining and that inner seal, letting the fluid escape...not that this would be likely to happen that soon, but it still means removing the piston much more often than with dust seals

#33 PZG302

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Posted 17 April 2009 - 07:44 AM

you do realise that there is still a main seal in the bore that seals the caliper piston to the body ?....this seal prvents fluid escaping at high pressure, so its bound to stop dust getting in under no pressure....


Not in my Willwoods, it's basically the pistons and that's it, From memory just some rubber o rings as they are a pure racing caliper not really suitable for road use at all unless you want to pull them down every coupleof weeks. As I said I pull them down after every wet meeting. I also pull them down when I change pads to make sure all is OK. For what you pay for them they are quite disaapointing when you look at the quality of the castinbg and general finish.

#34 NZeder

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Posted 17 April 2009 - 11:10 AM

If you want Wilwood and dust seal there is an option. The Midilites from RallyDesign.co.uk

http://www.rallydesi...roducts_id=8317

Cheers
Mike

#35 Zedman240®

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Posted 17 April 2009 - 02:55 PM

So the DBA106B is the Ford hub based rotor with the following specs?

287mm x 24mm with 58mm hat?


Mike, the specs I have are similar to yours but with a 75mm hat. Being blank, it doesn't come with the hub. Just have to bore it out and drill the pattern for the 260Z hub. Finding out soon about availability...if your looking into this same conversion, start looking for discs now!

#36 NZeder

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Posted 17 April 2009 - 03:35 PM

Thanks for that - I already have my brake setup under control (I think) I have 294mm x 24mm for the front these are two piece setup ie with alloy hat. The rotor is a common Sub/Mits sizing so easy to get. The rear I will be running will be 284mm x 20mm with an internal drum for the hand/park brake. Caliper on the front will be Porsche Boxster Monobloc which are designed for a 298mm x 24mm rotor so should be perfect.

#37 Zedman240®

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Posted 02 May 2009 - 10:45 PM

Just a little update on this brake thingy, ended up going for discs from PBR, with the part number PBR103 which is a Ford Fairlane rear disc with almost identical dimensions to the DBA106 disc (might even be the same disc!) and is drilled for the Ford stud pattern. I was hoping to get it blank but oh well. Also, I didn't get my calipers recoed in time for this weekend so looks like it will have to wait till next weekend to start the mods and take pictures for show and tell. Stay tuned!

#38 Neuby

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Posted 03 May 2009 - 03:24 PM

Awww! I have to wait longer!  Just kidding  ;D

I wait with baited breathe.......

#39 Zedman240®

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Posted 19 May 2009 - 09:19 PM

Just a quick update, brakes have been done but I have yet to pick them up! What I'll be doing this weekend is picking them up, bring them back home and dismantle them to paint the struts. In my haste I had to give the struts to him in primer as I ran out of time to paint before I had to deliver them. I'll take a heap of pics and give details about all the components to help anyone who wants to do this conversion. Also, (for anyone in Melbourne) he offers to do the work for you, provided you chase up all the parts like discs, calipers, new pads and seals and whatever else is needed ie worn if you remove your struts and give them to him for about $250-300. You can do a drive in-drive out but will cost a bit more reason being its a little more difficult to do. Calipers avg about $200-220, discs are about $70 a pair and seals $28 and pads about $40-50. Depends what quality you are after.. if you can get it cheaper...well done!

#40 Zedman240®

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Posted 23 May 2009 - 09:10 PM

Well, here are the pics.. Let me know what you think.

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