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A few drivetrain questions


Scando

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1.  I've just fitted an R200 LSD to my car and have previously been running a welded R180.  My understanding was that you needed a shorter driveshaft for one side (I think the passenger side?) to accomodate the wider R200.  I've put the diff in with the standard 240Z drive shafts and it there seems to be enough travel.  Even when the drive shafts are perfectly horizontal and therefore at their shortest there still seems to be around 10mm or more travel left on both sides.  What are other peoples experiences with this?

 

2.  I've been having trouble with the front of the diff moving up and down too much.  Is the chain over the top the best way to go?

 

3.  It seems my gearbox mount has bent backwards!  Has anybody else ever had this happen?  Has anybody tried making a solid mount?  Any other ideas?

 

4.  I need a new engine mount for one side.  Does anybody know if anybody like Noltec, Nolathane, etc make them?  Or can you only get the standard rubber ones?

 

Any help with these problems would be much appreciated.

 

Cheers

 

Shane

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1. No, Sorry.

 

2.  Chain is the cheapest way.

I know Rob Crighton was making a solid front diff mount made out of mild steel - might be worth giving him a call?

 

3. Mine looks weird as well - I'm not sure about a fix atm...

 

4. I believe you can still get new ones. But if in doubt, solid mount it!

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http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,2276.0.html

 

5th post down has a photo and details of a diff mount made by chris wood. i'm interested in getting one and he lives quite close to me, i'm not in a rush, hence y i've done nothing about it yet.

 

my only concern would be ensuring it was mounted in the right spot to still use the existing crossmember too, although i guess its not actually needed...also it looks like there may of been some additional plates welded onto the area?

 

ideally i'd like one which used the existing mounts for the strap that came on my 260z, but i dont think it would be worth the measure up and get made over the above setup

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1. A while back I ran the same setup with no problems.

 

2. I wouldn't use a solid front mount unless you make the rear mounts solid as well as all

    torque reaction in the drive train will eventually snap the diff cross member as it will be  taking all the twisting.

    Chris Woods made the diff mount for me and it works a treat, no extra brackets  required.

 

3. NFI

 

4. Check this link for engine mounts.

    http://mckinneymotorsports.com/prod_DATSUN+510+SR+SWAP+PARTS#prod-155

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Now that I have gone to a RB engine I took the time to modify my new engine mounts to take the "Energy Suspension" Universal Jeep motor mount for the following reasons.

 

1. They are easy to come by

2. They are cheap

3. They are a poly mount

4. They have a safety interlock design ie if the poly fails the mount will still hold together

5. They are close to the stock zed mount with only the ears wider apart and the centre bolt slightly larger (I just increased the size of the hole in the cost member to take the mount)

 

The issues

1. Not a metric stud on the mount.

2. You need to modify your engine mount brackets for the wider mount.

 

See here for a link to the mount I am using and for the link on hybridz that shows the interlock design - if I was still running a L28 I would have made the mod to use these for the same reason stated above.

 

Also as I was changing my gearbox to the later C box I had to modify my gearbox cross member also so I again took the chance to swap to the energy suspension GM gearbox mount as this bolts up to the Nissan C/B boxes not a problem. Has the same interlock and poly in the design :) these are also shown on the link below - I got them in Black as they come in Black or Red. I when I come to doing the diff I might see if I can use the same GM gearbox mount also :)

 

http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/univ3.html

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=120218

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  • 2 weeks later...

OK so here's what i've gone with.

 

1.  Stuck with the 240Z driveshafts and we'll see how it goes.  there seems to be plenty of travel.

 

2.  My dad bent up and welded a metal strap (about 6mm thick) to the mounting points for the diff cross member that goes over the front of the diff.  A couple of bits of radiator hose attached via some skiaflex for the diff to bash against and it should be the trick  ;)

 

3 & 4.  Got some new standard mounts coming.  The engine mounts are fairly stuffed so hopefully new engine mounts will hold it all in place a bit better so there won't be so much stress on the gearbox mount.  Stewart Wilkins motorsport has engine mounts that they said should last forever but they were $550 for the pair which was a bit much for me to fork out for engine mounts.

 

Thanks for all the input guys

 

NZeder, i don't really have time to be modifying things at the moment but i might look into those parts in the future, thanks.

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