chris240 Posted December 15, 2008 Share Posted December 15, 2008 fellas I need to remove an auto box from an L28 this weekend...the box is still connected to the L28, but the good news is thats its already out of the car.. Just undo the perimeter bolts and give it a good smack I gather !! any pointers for separating the 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zeddophile Posted December 16, 2008 Share Posted December 16, 2008 I need to remove an auto box from an L28 this weekend...the box is still connected to the L28, but the good news is thats its already out of the car.. Just undo the perimeter bolts and give it a good smack I gather !! any pointers for separating the 2 Huh (Kinda embarrasing asking this) Don't forget to undo the torque converter bolts - should be about 4 of them. Don't remember where to access them from on an L series motor, but they will go through the ringgear on the back on the engine into the torque converter, so the bolt heads are on the engine side of the ring gear (flywheel on an auto). Possibly accessible through the starter motor hole in the bellhousing, after starter has been removed, or there may be a cover plate at the bottom of the bell housing under the sump. Will have to turn the motor over by hand to get them in an accessible position, one at a time. You can usually pull the auto off without undoing the torque converter, but then you still have to remove the torque converter from the engine at some stage, and they tend to piss oil out everywhere when the torque converter is removed from the auto (even if box has been drained), so I prefer to leave it in the auto and take both away at the same time. Also, autos are freakin heavy - considerably heavier than a manual gearbox, so keep it in mind, and get someone to help you if possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris240 Posted January 7, 2009 Author Share Posted January 7, 2009 well the auto-box came off the L28 nicely, its just that the torque converter is still attached to the flywheel. Im stumped as to how to undo those 4 friggin bolts let alone get a socket or ring spanner thru the gap. As the converter is destined for the skip bin anyway, can I drill a hole into it, drain the fluid, and cut or grind into it , to get to the 4 bolts ? or is that called bastardising it !! Ive just read zedophiles great tutorial, but no tips on those damn nuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scoota G Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 The four bolts are on the motor side of the Flexplate, or they should be. A photo would probably help. I assume you're talking about cutting through the Torque Convertor but you shouldnt have to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zeddophile Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 Im stumped as to how to undo those 4 friggin bolts let alone get a socket or ring spanner thru the gap. or there may be a cover plate at the bottom of the bell housing under the sump. Will have to turn the motor over by hand to get them in an accessible position, one at a time. Get a socket on the front pulley of the engine, turn it over till bolt heads visible under the bottom of the sump, undo them. Rinse, repeat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modular9 Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 zeddophile : I think he already has the gearbox apart from the engine but i dont know how he parted the flexplate from the crank. I used your method on my rebuild and it works superbly. Chris240 : How the heck did you part the flexplate from the crankshaft ? that was harder for me than the four wittle eensy bolts!! 1. If you are junking the torque converter then you could slide a long handled screwdriver between the mounting areas on the converter and use that to brace against. They are square little raised sections where the bolts bolt into. ( see image of my flexplate when it came off. ) 2 . drill into the converter on one side so you can insert a bar or something into it. Then insert bar and brace against it. OR even better pierce it right through so you could 3 . Put the ring spacer and the bolts ( find some nuts to fit ) back onto the flex plate and then slide a bar between the bolts to use as a brace. Warning : Flex plate is really really really easy to bend. and also I didnt need to do anything of the above as zeddophiles works if your engine and gearbox are still together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dazzed Posted January 8, 2009 Share Posted January 8, 2009 dont understand how did you remove the box without removing the lower half of the sandwich plate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zeddophile Posted January 8, 2009 Share Posted January 8, 2009 zeddophile : I think he already has the gearbox apart from the engine but i dont know how he parted the flexplate from the crank. He couldn't have pulled the flex plate off if the torque converter is still on. However, the torque converter only slides into the transmission, but is bolted to the engine, so if you pull the box without undoing the torque converter bolts, the torque converter stays on the back of the engine. So essentially he has an auto on the ground with no torque converter in it, and an engine elsewhere with the torque converter still hanging off the flexplate. dont understand how did you remove the box without removing the lower half of the sandwich plate? As far as I know he can't have, so either it was never there, or he's removed it. Which means there should be absolutely no issue getting to the bolts, once the engine is turned over to bring them to the access panel at the bottom. I presume he is looking through the side between the back of the block and the flywheel trying to get at the bolts, and hasn't turned the engine over to bring the bolts around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris240 Posted January 8, 2009 Author Share Posted January 8, 2009 ok maybe Im old school but I assume "flexplate" & flywheel are the samething given the above.. so the flexplate is still in place. anyway Ive removed the starter to access the 4 bolts , but when I spin the fly-wheel so that the bolt(s) line up with the opening....well they just seem to miss the opening by a few mm, which means I cant get a socket thru the starter opening onto the bolt.. Also as the bolt is set back 1-2mm from the face , I cant pass a ring spanner or open ended spanner thru the "gap" sideways, to try to access the bolthead "safely". I must blinded by the simplicity or something see pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zeddophile Posted January 8, 2009 Share Posted January 8, 2009 anyway Ive removed the starter to access the 4 bolts , but when I spin the fly-wheel so that the bolt(s) line up with the opening....well they just seem to miss the opening by a few mm, which means I cant get a socket thru the starter opening onto the bolt.. Ok, now I follow - you're trying to get them through the starter hole, and haven't moved along to trying the second option I gave (at the time of posting wasn't sure which way the zed ones were accessed). What you need to do is get the back of the motor up off the tyre you have it resting on (or you may be able to slide it so the back hangs further off the tyre?). If you have a look at it, the flywheel/flex plate/ringgear hangs down considerably past the sump, so you will be able to get a socket or spanner onto the bolts (whichever you want!) going from where the tyre currently is. You may even be able to get a spanner up between the flywheel and tyre as it sits now, bit hard to tell in the photo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris240 Posted January 8, 2009 Author Share Posted January 8, 2009 fully understood. you have a good eye for detail. I'll get the block & tackle out, or I'll try to giggle the motor back a tad to give me clearance to work at the bolts from below. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris240 Posted January 19, 2009 Author Share Posted January 19, 2009 thanks heaps Zeddophile ...it took 10mins !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zeddophile Posted January 19, 2009 Share Posted January 19, 2009 thanks heaps Zeddophile ...it took 10mins !! Good to hear.... now hurry up and get the L28 into your car! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nat0_240_chevZ Posted January 21, 2009 Share Posted January 21, 2009 REMEMBER TO USE A PILOT BEARING/Spiggot bush!!!!!! for the manual box!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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