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#41 Gaijin

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Posted 03 December 2008 - 03:18 PM

Getting back onto the engine bay completion,

plenty of the fiddly bits to go.

Firstly, its biffed back in, the cam covers have been given a rub'n'polish and the coil cover some nasty never dry gloss black. Perfect then.
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The new wastegate position (Tial 38mm  - hopefully its big enough), which was changed from an underneath pick up on the ex manifold to a top position for flow reasons.
Had heard that boost creep would be gauranteed from some dyno tuners, on the same engine and similar turbo.
Moving it up means gas flow doesnt need to do a 180 to get to the gate, just an easy? 90 deg change. Bottom hole TIG'd up.
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90 deg elbow welded to the comp housing outlet, clearance ok to ex man, but will require some heat sheilding to help intercooler do its job.
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Comp housing clearance to bonnet?
Dunno yet, have tried and seemed ok, but once gaskets etc are all on it may start a rubbin'.
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Oil catch can arrived after waiting a few MONTHS for it to turn up from kazakstan...hmmmm
Quality looks good though, solid, 2l capacity (right for track racing then according to Motorsport
NZ). This will also get hot, being on the , er, hot side. More heat reflection required then.
Squirter bottle pinched from a mates car, and chucked into the corner.
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Well hello, the flares have just turned up, surely not from Kazakstan as well?
Better get over and do some trial fitments....finally

#42 Gaijin

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Posted 04 December 2008 - 04:53 PM

More engine bay stuff;

Got a GREX/Greddy oil filter re-locator from JP off Import Monster (which does cars, motorbikes, 2nd hand, vintage stuff etc, just recently, got a Z432 for sale with 85km, going for $135kAu - yeehaa, and a nice,clean ZG a snip at circa $80k au. The market sure lives on strong in JP.

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NISMO clucth also a jp 2nd hand item, about half the weight of stock flyw.

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Ill kill the water pump and blank this part off, pull the thermo out and run elec pump & controller.
Biff on a cam gear for the exh.?


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Hello, f.glass 1" wider front zg flare, sitting rough.

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This gaurds ok, but the other will be the bog sculpture. Rickys f.glass gaurds sure look tidy, especially that the arch is 75mm forward, great for big castor angles....

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and for the rear this what we got

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Better get back in and finish this flare install , get mr suspension in to measure up.

#43 Gaijin

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Posted 04 December 2008 - 05:11 PM

To gauge the clearance between ground/lowest parts, exhaust back up.
its a 3" SS mandrel tack TIGed into posi for now. Centre muffler lowest part but will sit about 30mm higher than as unsupported here mind

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Rear Sus arms are shooting for the stars,  thats enough bump


Cut away the lovely quarter I welded in a few years back,  and some cables. oops

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wheel in at max squish

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(smaller temporary) cap screw the gaurds into place, and hey presto,

Full bump including  er, bump stop

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and at about ride height

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and same

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Can move this around a bit with coilover heights, but looks about right. Comments please

oh yeah 125mm total wheel travel.

#44 Zeddophile

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Posted 04 December 2008 - 06:09 PM

Can move this around a bit with coilover heights, but looks about right. Comments please


My personal preference on this one, with any car that has a round wheelarch (ie not flat across the top), is that the gap between tyre and guard should be the same between top of wheel and guard as it is between front/back of wheel and guard.  Exceptions come when the wheelarch is considerably bigger in diameter than the tyre, but doesn't seem to be the case here, looks like if you viewed it side on would be a bit over an inch gap all round - should look great.

#45 Gaijin

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Posted 09 December 2008 - 05:25 PM

Getting exhausted,

another mention of the existing wastgate point, welded up.

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Wastegate dump 38mm enters into main exhaust after 1 metre. Gas flow less turbulant there = less back pressure = more power

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Keep it tight boss

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could wrap it in heat wrap or get some coating on.

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#46 Lurch ™

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Posted 09 December 2008 - 05:36 PM

Some nice Tig welds there... :)

#47 PZG302

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Posted 09 December 2008 - 09:17 PM

get the ceramic coating, heat wrap will cause the pipes to deteriorate over time. I have heat wrap on my system and I'm too scared to remove it as I reckon it's all that's holding the manifold together and as it was a hand made job specifically for the car and motor set up I don't want to replace it until absolutely necessary.

#48 Gaijin

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Posted 11 December 2008 - 06:02 PM

Thought best to get some panels on to work out some colours for the car.

Got the right front gaurd roughly on, prob a little low. Steel gaurd will be sold, and a fibreglass one in place.

Chucked the spoiler on,

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Rolled it back for a rough ride height  = ok.


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New bumper arriving from santa- thanks Mulderghini!

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We sprayed up the gaurds in primer to get less contrast with Photoshopping when doing colour schemes. Or probably just my wobbly eyes.

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cant ignore the left side.
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Ive picked up a full nolathane bush kit for the rear including more adjustment opportunities, on all sus arms and subframe to chassis mounts. Sway bar adjustments also provided for.

Ill get these in once im out of bed.

#49 Zeddophile

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Posted 11 December 2008 - 07:32 PM

Back ride height looks perfect to me, front I'd personally bring up about 10mm.  Looking very tough all round this one.

#50 Gaijin

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Posted 14 December 2008 - 09:07 PM

More nostalgia.

The mk 1 plans called for NA.

It was the L series build up, aside from the L24 stocker seen previously.

L28 stock insides, cleaned up, Mikunis 40PHH, ex manifold 6-2-1. elec ign. May have made 180 flywheel hp's.

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Carb rebuild....gaijin would be quicker to build than those carbs.

But the sound !

Something a turbo will never acheive.

#51 Gaijin

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Posted 15 December 2008 - 12:32 PM

Right then,

its been such a long time between posts, thought best to update the situation;



ER34 rear bushes from Noltec. Trademe have some reasonable prices for these. Frank De Jong is the contact, helpful, delivers for free too.
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There is a few missing, kids eh.

Rear subframe bush ready for transplant.

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Rear camber arms back in. Bought off trademe, for a sniff over $100, the welding was poor. Ground the welds back, re-tig'd them, and sent back to the Xrayer man for OK. Phew. Dont expect the stock ones to pass certs, WOF etc.

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Only the sway bar to go back in, more or less. Oh yeah,  struts as well. Ron Millan in today to measure up. Better lose that hand bud.

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Big dog tailshaft hoop installed. Tailshaft by Beatties, spec'd for 700hp. Nothing re-used from old skyline, as itll be too weak for thrashing. Hoop required for certification.

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Hard to see, but, handbrake mods to bracketry. Single cable to twin, made custom mount.

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#52 Gaijin

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Posted 15 December 2008 - 12:47 PM

Getting back to the business end of the car;

Electric water pump arrived with controller.

Mounting under the intake manifold, probably.

Its the bigger 110l/hr, with fan on the back. Controller is micro-processor. Very 80's...
I jest, but it will be a good addition to the car. Turbo timer, whatever! Run the pump once the engine has stopped for a few minutes.
Good solid fast trips to the corner shop then.

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Enough of that for now,

10" fan fits ok. Will get two in there.

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My pikes peak escudo sized K&N is too big to fit now intake pipe roughly done.
Ill play around with this later this week.
Ignore the coolant hose yah.

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Grill aint looking too bad considering. Would prefer the Fairlady version,  mesh style. Perhaps someone has a new/nice one in their garage they could sell to me?
swap, please, hello?

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#53 Gaijin

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Posted 15 December 2008 - 12:50 PM

Oil blow by 2 litre catch can in, with lovingly welded bracket.
Hoses attached and completed.

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Shroud made for the rear of the radiator to intercooler.
It is structural, holding the cooler, along with a bottom support, all in ally.

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Bosch cobra water pump for cooler sitting in its home. This is a stock order pump from USA, from a

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GReddy type R BOV in its possible home.
Will recycle hot filthy air back into the turbo intake, for max response, and turbo spooling
The cooler is made of 3-4mm plate ally, so we can fit directly to this, with maybe only a little strengthening required.
and everything STILL fits under the stock bonnet...

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Intake pipe nice n tight

The whole lot there is rubber mounted, so no cracking.
Wouldnt mind the JP style hundreds of welds style inlet pipe, using sections.
Sure looks fat next to the little engine

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The car is out of here next week, so the clock is ticking!

Next mission, PANEL & PAINT

#54 Gaijin

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Posted 17 December 2008 - 06:52 PM

Attempting to decide on paint and external appearance is daunting really, easy to make or break the cars looks.

Here are some cars that take my eye, that may look similar in some ways to what we can produce.

In no specific order,
apologies already if links break
plenty of lovely s30's ive missed out on, cant post them all...sorry

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Ive not got the gnose, so thats out for now.

New chrome front bumper.
2nd hand chrome rear, avg condition

Chrome or painted?


Flares 2 tone to body?

Out to take more high res pics tomo and the local photoshop expert tomo....

Also looks like one of santas elves has been identified as Mike Lucas (thanks Mike - hugely!). Will begin play with bonnet gas strut mod for the fibreglass lid arriving next week from
Wayne Croft, he makes them,  along with other fibreglass goods for zeds, spoilers, gaurds etc. Christchuch based.

#55 zedevan

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Posted 17 December 2008 - 09:50 PM

since you already have the gold throughout parts of your car my vote would have to be for millenium jade off r34 gtr NUR's - which have gold rocker covers conincidently

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#56 Gaijin

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Posted 18 December 2008 - 05:56 AM

You may have the hit the nail on the proverbial!

Perfect, almost a titanium colour, off silver/light bronze.

drool

#57 NZeder

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Posted 18 December 2008 - 06:36 AM

since you already have the gold throughout parts of your car my vote would have to be for millenium jade off r34 gtr NUR's - which have gold rocker covers conincidently

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Yes nice colour I like it. Has that Skyline connection to go with the engine ;) and yet not too flashy to make the old school body look out of place like some modern colours.
Cheers
Mike

#58 Gaijin

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Posted 18 December 2008 - 08:22 PM

The club in progress

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Speaking about welds
3" SS pipe between resonators, middle of exhaust -ish

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Tiller of HMS 'Gaijin'
Autogauge rev and smokey speed meter
3 - 6 other 60mm pending. 3 on dash, 3 mounted in glovebox behind the lid.

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these didnt fit. Left one is not what I want, its r34, mine requires a R33 gtr for some reason as on the right. Eh?
Ron Millan getting all bushes into rear end, and shock manfacture. Top spherical mount, lower to rubber mount attachement on hub assembly.
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With left over 4" ally intake pipe in hand,  an intercooler top up tank,  mounted higher than the rest of the coolant in the system. Get rid of some aeration issues -
Noticing the radiator connect only tack welded. handy

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#59 Zeddophile

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Posted 18 December 2008 - 08:42 PM

Now THAT is a brake pedal!  How hard you planning to stand on that thing?  You've got me wondering if mine is up to scratch now, mine just has the balance bar tube welded straight to the pedal with no reinforcing.... still, our racecars have it done the same way and they don't seem to bend, I guess if it does I just have to pull it out and send it to New Zealand!

#60 Zedman240®

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Posted 18 December 2008 - 09:03 PM

+1 with that!

But even with bigger brakes fitted, meaning less pedal effort do you still need to box up the brake pedal? Or because you are running without a booster and tandem cylinders there will be more braking pressure on the pedal? You are going to have to put up a video on youtube when its running...dying to hear and see it running!! Excellent job there! ;D




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