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#21 Gaijin

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Posted 21 October 2008 - 10:38 AM

Well, about time to tease those of you running carbs. (I will regret saying this)

- Turbo, exhaust,gate,water intercooler,radiator into position.
Pipework has more work to clear tight spots here and there.

Modified TB location on intake manifold, to clear inner gaurd. TB running 80 degree to usual install method.

Heat exchanger out front of radiator, pumped  by bosch intercooler water pump (controlled by ECU)

My deadline for road going widow maker is late Jan, for a  family wedding, and of course in Feb, for a (NZ) Z club Taupo track day, to gently roll around the track whilst smoking a cigar (probably not legal now).

Front end slowly coming together.
Arizona z car struts, camber tops, 70mm longer bottoms arms, lengthened and adjustable tension rods, 5 stud ally hubs, ally disc hat, heavy duty rotors (more cooling vanes, thicker meat) of around 12.4" ish rotors, 4 pot wilwoods, ally mount.
Roll bar and steering linkage needs sorting.

Power steering now in and done, MR2 rack. This is a toyo-ta type.

Found some ZG flares that will fit, extra wide front and rear. Thanks for the pics.

Secret fuel system hidden in back, bosch 700hp efi pump, lift pump, filters, tank increased in size (modified original to increase fuel vol, and house a surge tank), and it all looks completly stock. Beauty.

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#22 Gaijin

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Posted 21 October 2008 - 10:42 AM

- cage fully welded up now, and completed.
- car a roller, can push between the workshop and the bank manager.
- Neil Fraser has viewed the car, and more than happy with the efforts, with regard to certification.
- Front end has steering arms attached, thanks to the donor skyline for compatibility
- Front anitroll bar mocked up, will be sent away for manufacturing, two settings, forged ends.
- Camber plates re-made, to REDUCE the -ve camber from the lower arm lengthening (70mm+ each side)
- Camber plates pushed out to the max, without chopping up to much of the outer strut tower. Requires a beating to stop springs rubbin'
- Lower arms and steering arms are close to parallel, and are around horizontal at ride height. ie. -ve camber change on bump only.
Can make up some of these 'bump steer' spacers, but these would change the bump/camber change characteristics (for the better), and make the bump/steer worse. Steering arm - knuckle would require lowering to improve. Something to look at later, once susprog3D is up and running.

Car is being removed from Herberts Fabrication within a fortnight, for the next phase of works - or break.

Have asked Roland Miester (Pi Research/Development Pectel Manager) for sponsorship for the SQ6M Pi ECU for the car. A very cool and beefy ECU, dual motorolla processors, data logging, internal memory, fly by wire, traction control, and run dual lambda sensors for quick learning....go the UK!
Perhaps more plugs will see some results? Go Roly! Perhaps an opportunity for Pi to expand into the aftermarket ECU industry? Their usual fare is F1, V8 super's, WRC etc.

Super BAMF ZG flares are manufactured and on their way from the States (+1" wider at the front, 1.5" wider rear, than the standard ZGs seen out there)

- Better hurry up if Im  going to make the Feb Taupo track day eh?

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#23 Gaijin

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Posted 21 October 2008 - 10:42 AM

Look forward to the next phase of works, whenever they start.

The mock build up, before the panel beaters.

Overall, I have been happy with Herberts with the work they have done. Quick and good quality.

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#24 Gaijin

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Posted 21 October 2008 - 10:44 AM

Finally getting closer to obtaining some JDM wide spec zg flares.
This guy is doing moulds, producing in f.glass and carbon fibre.
Rears are 1.5" wider, front 1" wider.
This should easily take care of wrapping up my wheels, and possibly leave some room for a spacer, increasing the track more.
Surely going more square on the wheelbase/track ratio wont help doing 720's on the motorway?
Go-kart handling for sure.

On a random point, ZGs were designed for an arcing movement of a Mcpherson strut, hence the angular shape.
The rears flares may need the extra width to take into account a relatively more up/down suspension movement (or certainley less camber change on bump)
We will see soon.

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#25 Gaijin

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Posted 21 October 2008 - 10:45 AM

The beast is out in the light, ready for the next round.

Mock build before the panelworks.

All wheels/tires stick outta gaurds.
Nice n low

Happy with that.

Tires are the same size as Porsche GT3 cup cars, great 2nd hand deals.
They are hard as rock, but for a 6 pack each, who cares.

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#26 Gaijin

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Posted 21 October 2008 - 10:50 AM

Its been a little slow, and I have no excuses.

Front spoiler from Japan, fibreglass, and of poor quality and finish. Leave this one to the panelbeater.

Standard grill in, and attempting to figure out what the best setup and positions for the heat exchanger for the water/air cooler, and the radiator, thermo fans, powersteer cooling, and even the aircon heat exchanger. Not much then!

Considering the intercooler sits behind the radiator (where the stock one lives), with around 40mm gap to allow some airflow through, the will be a redution in efficiency of the radiator. The heat exchanger for the cooler should sit in front of the radiator (similar to air-air). To compensate, Ill get some fans on the front of the radiator.

The problems with cooling will eventuate when;
- Im stuck in auckland traffic, no airflow, fans going hard. But, there will be little or no heat generated by the engine (above that of a standard Rb25). Probably will be fine.
- Going around a racetrack with lots of WOT, heat generated galore (circa proportional to power output), fans going, etc. This is where the problem will arise, if it does. Anyway, enough pissing around, lets bolt the things in.

Clutch lines in, working. Nismo light flywheel and supercopper mix non sprung clutch plate, with HD pressure plate ready. Unsprung? Maybe too ugly for street. May even slip under the final grunt value. We will see.

Front arms xrayd OK, they are painted and to go back in.

Rear subframe out for once over before final install.

Greddy remote filter locator in (filter under flap where washer bottle used to live)

Spreadsheeting the brake setup to ensure the system will work well. Measure everything, chuck into spread, check outputs. Make changes. I will detail this further once completed.

SARD fuel rail supplied for er34, has different diameter injector holes than standard, so will require drilling out.

Headlight buckets, right one used in 10/10 nick from Japan, left one NEW from japan. They cost around $80 each. Import Monster. Exchange rate a little sore now, not as effective as it was. Cool parts available if you can decipher the 'engrish' as the Monster calls it.

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#27 Gaijin

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Posted 21 October 2008 - 10:51 AM

Been 'servicing' all the parts, so should go well once started.
Rear discs new, standard items. Drum handbrake cleaned up, shoes look fine.

Now everything is covered in the engineers/fabricators enemy, the tar underseal, and 'never dry' gloss black paint.
It does look kinda stock. Once a little dirt is thrown in.

Underneath shot with everything removed, hard to tell whats been played with.

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#28 Gaijin

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Posted 21 October 2008 - 10:53 AM

As parts slowly go back on the car, it feels great.
Any welding has been x-rayd, on rear camber arms, front arms etc.
After a quick blast, they hit the powder coaters in black for a durable finish.

The front heat exchanger gets a home finally. Rubber mounted in 2 -axis.
Large air filter gets a vertical mount, with a 4" pipe to link this week.

Front sway bar mounts get a toughen up, with a plate welded to two sides of the frame rail. After restoring/wrecking my previous Papua New Guinea S30 (sold new), I found out the deficiencies in the S30 chassis design...

As my sparky has mentioned, 'you'll blow the engine' is believable. Look forward to taking a trip to vegas to talk with Rob (aka R.I.P.S) to sort the RB30 and turbine package to make this old bird fly. Spend the money wisely grass hopper.......for now perhaps...

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#29 Gaijin

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Posted 21 October 2008 - 10:54 AM

After using a few spreadsheets to work out what master cylinder size I could run, I quickly discovered the amount of 'fudging' these calculators require.

It also showed me that attempting to use a single master for both front and rear circuits (and a proportioning valve for the rear) would be a poor solution.

Calling around, most people just said install and test. Z club members have given me some guidance. I have purchased a 3/4 for the front, and a 5/8 for the rear, and a wilwood balance bar for under the pedal, and raised the peadl ratio to 6:1.
This will be an un-assisted brake setup using two master cylinders and a balance bar to adjust the setup depending on raod or track use.

Attached is the spreadsheet calcs. I have worked backwards in some areas to acheive what looks like a solution, using some numbers which are very hard to accuratly determine.
I.e. co-efficient of friction for the pads-discs, and tires (which will change greatly from slicks to street tires etc).
The rest is straightforward-ish.

Wilwood superlight 4 pot fronts, er34 2 pot rears (same as almost all R series turbo rears, Z32's and 200sx's).
Discs as measured (taken as 2/3rd's the way up the pad contact face, not total outside radius)
COG height guessed
Wheelbase as standard
Max deceleration = race best effort

Otherwise, if it doesnt work, Ill swap masters (at $45 each, thats OK)
Balance bar = $90

Car into brake shop for new hard brake lines as we speak.

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#30 RBZ 260

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Posted 21 October 2008 - 11:14 AM

Nice work  :o. like the rear cradle mod.  ;D

have you got any close ups of the rear cradle mounting to the body. also front xmember with the power steer mod.

cant wait for the update.

#31 NZeder

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Posted 21 October 2008 - 01:17 PM

I see you found your way here to Martin - well done :)

#32 Zeddophile

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Posted 21 October 2008 - 06:38 PM

Calling around, most people just said install and test. Z club members have given me some guidance. I have purchased a 3/4 for the front, and a 5/8 for the rear, and a wilwood balance bar for under the pedal, and raised the peadl ratio to 6:1.
This will be an un-assisted brake setup using two master cylinders and a balance bar to adjust the setup depending on raod or track use.


Sounds about in the right region in terms of master sizings.  Agreed on the fudging of calculations, my GTV ends up with a 5/8 for both front and rear, despite the difference in piston size.  Would be interested on how the 3/4 goes with the wilwood 4 pots, as I'm looking at trying to jam some 4 pot brembos under my 15' wheels.....

#33 NZeder

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Posted 21 October 2008 - 09:50 PM

MC sizing is very typical for 1.75" 4 pots with the Nissan 2 pots on the rear and 6:1 pedal ratio so I think you are on the money with that one. I have different MC sizing for my dual MC setup but I am running a front caliper with smaller pistons sizing, the rears will be the same size as the Nissan 2 pots - so it would be good to compare when (if) we both make to the track in Jan at Taupo  ;)

#34 gav240z

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Posted 21 October 2008 - 11:22 PM

This is awesome, I envy you.

We should definitely do a front page feature on this beast. Starting to look the goods.

#35 Gaijin

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Posted 29 October 2008 - 05:36 PM

To continue from the brake spreadsheet guesstimation;

- brake pedal ratio changed to 6:1, see the old small hole, and the new large cylinder welded in higher up, which will house the brake balance bar.
- twin masters (these are wilwoods, not the trusty trojans as first purchased). New plate brazed to the front of the exisitng firewall plate and an additional plate welded to the inside of the firewall for more rigidity. If this is insufficient, a brace can be added to the front of the masters later.
- wilwood superlight 4 pot front callipers. 18" wheels make the discs look small. From the spreadsheet (mostly car mass as dominant factor), they are overkill. The track will tell.

Have braided front hoses and rears ready.
Hard piping of brake lines as we speak, 'P' clipped to chassis.

Transmission tunnel Braided lines are for the fuel back and forth

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#36 ZD44TT

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Posted 30 October 2008 - 03:35 PM

holly fark there did this come from............hahahha

I want to see the flares on with those hectic wheels please.....

*drooooooooooooools*

nice work mate.

#37 Gaijin

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Posted 05 November 2008 - 06:13 PM

Right, more detail shots.

- Petrol tank. Standard unit modified.  Pic has details. Welds have sealed tank. Will add POR15 type tank sealant internally. Carter lift pump pushes fuel through low pressure filter into surge tank. Not shown.
Then EFI bosch pump draws from surge tank, through high pressure filter to fuel rail up the braided lines. When the tank is in the car, it looks completely standard. Access through the existing spare tire wheel bay, with a flat cover over the top. No spare tire then.
So the surge tank is not connected to the main tank, and the extra vol is. Just testing...

- PS rack/cross member mods, in case your interested. Pic shows the mods, new mount for the bottom seat of the rack, a braced top mount, and a cut out for one of the PS lines. Rack is a Toyota MR2 job, so not exactly a limo turner. Similar car weights, so shouldnt be too over assisted, can change the PS pump revs through new pulley, will adjust this a little way.

- Rear tire/brakes completed. Rebuilt, new discs, calliper seals, hoses, project mu drift pads and plenty of BBQ black to hide the crud.
not exciting unless its making smoke...eh

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#38 Gaijin

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Posted 23 November 2008 - 06:52 PM

Some progress of late.

stock er34 injectors replaced with Bosch 550cc x 6, which will cover me for some way over 400hp's at the wheels, turbo/engine strength permitting.

Gaijin back from the brake hose crew, and it looks neat. Wilwood master cylinders have replaced the Trojans, only due to difficulty in finding the resevoirs for them. Groan.

Just for luxury sake, a rear proportioning valve position is included in the rear pipe line inside the cabin. Ignore the interior sound deadening, efforts from the past require restarting.

The engine bay completion continues...

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#39 Gaijin

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Posted 28 November 2008 - 10:50 AM

rb26 water pump.
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Should have gone and bought a Davies electric pump instead. Focus....


Anyways,
checking out the exisiting front brake options, it started with the stock er34 (same as s14/15 r32/33/34 sumitomo 4 piston)

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But Herberts had a neat looking disc and hat available cheap, which would mount to 4 stud s30 stock hub, using stock sumitomo's. Solid mounted hat to rotor.

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But Id wanted a bigger disc, with an ally 5 stud hub, which was not gonna work as a combo, without breaking out the mill again
The disc was light for sure though. Club member may be keen?

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But the Arizona Z car stuff, was the ticket. Bolts together, US/NZ rate at $0.87US, it would be very hard to beat it for the $ outlay. Probably too easy now.
Hat-rotor still solid mount, not floating. I Overspeced the rotor to HD, increasing the rotor thickness and number of internal cooling vanes. Increase heat soak potential.

#40 Gaijin

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Posted 02 December 2008 - 05:21 PM

Right then,

This is a boring post.

Firstly, with the plans for a daily driver, think about things I like in a car.
- Clean windscreen!
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The squirters are from unknown jap donor car. 4 sprays.

Looking at gauge options, they are suprisingly few.
Autometer, usual fare, but are rather typical?
Autogauge, but unsure of longevity of them
Looked at plenty of American units, but they are oldschool, check out the Cyberdynes, WTF!
Would love some DEFI, but yikes, rather not sell the real daily driver to get 'em.

Need 2 5/8" for centre console, and 5" for dash.

Dash installed and cut outs made for the roll cage around the pillars.

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Will look around some more before purchasing.

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Hmmm whats going on here.
Decided to ditch a mechanical driven water pump and go electric. ECU will run this. Will gain hp's,  more so when its not running at full effort.
Davies Craig 110lt/min arriving soon.
So will have 2 water pumps for sale, one being underdriven (new 'N1 type' one), using a larger pulley. Takers?




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