reverendzed Posted October 9, 2008 Share Posted October 9, 2008 Thought I'd post up some of the lessons learned during my hatch 'refirb' that i've done over the last two days. Firstly I'm glad I decided to get to the little bit of rust that I could see protruding from the screen rubber as when I took out the hatch glass there was more cancer than first expected. I decided to take the whole thing back to bare metal which proved to be a bit of work as I came across at least 6 thick layers of paint. It was interesting to find that there ws even some 'factory' abrasions on the metal under the paint. I cut the rust and carefully welded so as not to get any warp, I do this by tacking and having the air gun to cool the weld immediately, it works well. I then resurfaced the abrasions, etch primed, primer, 3 coats of spray putty, sand, prime and 3 coats of color and 3 coats of clear. left it overnight, wet sanded and then cut and hand polish. Refitting the rear glass: This proved interesting I had bought a rear hatch glass rubber from some 'nice' person on Ebay who advertised it as a 2+2 rear screen rubber, only to find today that it was for a 2 seater! After numerous phone calls I finally found one at Rare Spares in Bayswater, The price was great $150 bucks and the rubber was a perfect fit with the channel in it to reinstall the chrome surrounds. I first ran some blue masking tape that doesn't have too much tack around the entire hatch to protect from any scratching (my first time fitting a rear screen) I fit the rubber first around the glass and then sat one corner into the hatch , I then brushed on a small amount of detergent around the hatch and began working the seal around, I actually did this with the rounded end of a pen! it was a perfect size to gently lever the rubber. Once in I then carefully refit the chrome surrounds. fit the whole thing back up, restriped the hatch and it looks better than it ever did. Hope this may help others have a go at doing their own work! Windscreen O'Brian quoted me $190 just to fit the glass!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reverendzed Posted October 9, 2008 Author Share Posted October 9, 2008 more pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reverendzed Posted October 9, 2008 Author Share Posted October 9, 2008 last ones.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reverendzed Posted October 9, 2008 Author Share Posted October 9, 2008 O.K nearly there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zeddophile Posted October 9, 2008 Share Posted October 9, 2008 I fit the rubber first around the glass and then sat one corner into the hatch , I then brushed on a small amount of detergent around the hatch and began working the seal around, I actually did this with the rounded end of a pen! it was a perfect size to gently lever the rubber Its a bit late to help you now, but one of the easiest ways to get any window with that style seal in: Fit the seal onto the window, then run a length of thin rope (like the cheap nylon crap you can buy anywhere) all the way around the channel in the seal (the part that goes either side of the body), and leave two ends hanging out next to each other. Then sit in place, starting at a point next to your rope ends, and start to pull one end of the rope out (at near right angles to the seal) while holding pressure on the window. In this way, the rope pulls the lip of the seal over where it has to go. And petrol is an excellent lubricant for fitting rubber anything - it makes the rubber slide over very easily, then evaporates and doesn't leave the rubber slippery, reducing the chance of the seal/grommet/hose popping off. As always, check that its not going to hurt the paint (won't hurt 2 pack, but acrylic may be a different matter) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators gav240z Posted October 9, 2008 Administrators Share Posted October 9, 2008 Excellent work Rev, when can I book you in for body work on my Z LOL . That will honestly be one of the cleanest 2+2's around when you are finished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vinny Posted October 9, 2008 Share Posted October 9, 2008 Very good job there rev. One question what type of welder do you use when your welding car panels, as i've got some to co soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris240 Posted October 9, 2008 Share Posted October 9, 2008 I did the same exercise about 6 months ago, except we used a couple of plastic picnic spoons and lubricated the seal with morning fresh dishwashing liquid... only prob was the morning fresh doesnt evaporate and after I washed the car, some surface rust appeared on the chrome snap-trim !! We new about the string method, but opted for the back of the plastic spoon method instead....arrrr you learn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reverendzed Posted October 9, 2008 Author Share Posted October 9, 2008 Hey Vinny...I use a mig welder when I am working with thin metal such as the Zed, even then you have to be very careful on some of the panels not to warp or shrink the metal through getting it too hot, let me know if you need any more tips and I will do the best i can. Rev. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C.A.R. Posted October 10, 2008 Share Posted October 10, 2008 Looks good Dave. I really think it's about time your started your own build thread... Then we can merge all of your posts together in it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vinny Posted October 10, 2008 Share Posted October 10, 2008 Hi rev thank you very much i appreciate it won't be until early next year till i can start to work on my zed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBZ 260 Posted October 10, 2008 Share Posted October 10, 2008 good work Rev.looking sweet. like zedophile said using a rope makes things so much easier and very quick. i had i guy supply and fit a new windscreen and fit rear for $200.150 for front screen and 50 for installation. i couldnt be bothered or wanted to risk breaking the glass or damaging paint for sake of $50. obriens a massive rip offs. also installed it in 20min both. you car looking very good. now im thinking or returnin the arse end how it was without the rear bar like yours and doing other mods to it. ie possibly fitting 2 seater rear 1/4 windows. ahhh neverending story isnt it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brabham Posted October 16, 2008 Share Posted October 16, 2008 Hi Rev nice work on the hatch. Just wondering did you use any black windscreen sealant anywhere on the rubber seal? Do you think this would be necessary to prevent water seeping between the seal and the paint and rusting around the screen as this seems to be a common rust area e.g. around glass and seals, most old zed hatches have this problem. Was wondering if I had to put a large amount of this sealant around seal to try and keep the water out Final question what brand was the seal you got from rare spares. Thanks for your info have to fit windscreen at some stage soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reverendzed Posted October 18, 2008 Author Share Posted October 18, 2008 After always looking at my front fenders and wincing due to the bad paint blemishes and a few small 'bubbles' in the paint work I decided to pull them off this week, take them back to bare metal, cut rust, straighten, paint and refit, here's the progress Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reverendzed Posted October 18, 2008 Author Share Posted October 18, 2008 Check out the shine! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Posted October 18, 2008 Share Posted October 18, 2008 Wow Rev, Looks like a great paint finish!, Just wondering on a few things (since im a few months into a spraypainting apprentership) What kind of paint did ya use/mixture? Also what spraygun and also, whereabout did you spray it, since at work were in a spraybooth and still find bits of dust and stuff in the paint! anyway any advice/knowhow would be much appreciated since it looks like ill be spraying some Paint on a 240 soon =D Thanks mate Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators gav240z Posted October 18, 2008 Administrators Share Posted October 18, 2008 Awesome Rev, your getting quite good at this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reverendzed Posted October 18, 2008 Author Share Posted October 18, 2008 Michael because I'm painting in my workshop at home I use Acrylic lacquer because it flashes off so quick and doesn't allow dust to embed so easily, unlike 2 pac which you're not supposed to spray outside of a booth or enamel which take longer to flash (dry between coats) The beauty of lacquer is that I can lay down 3 coats of color and 3 coats of clear, allow it to dry (overnight) wet sand it and polish and it comes up like glass! it's also very forgiving if you make a mistake as you can rub it back easily ad touch it up. I'm self taught and been playing with body work and paint for years and I'm still learning by sourcing info on the web etc. Good luck with your project. Rev. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hunter Posted October 18, 2008 Share Posted October 18, 2008 I wish I lived closer Rev I would get you to help me with my paint job. I took my tailshaft and half shafts into a mate of mine who is the director of a engineering company here in Tas, He has a sandblasting booth and painting facilities. His shift foreman is also a ex panel beater. I have organised with him to work on my car at his factory, I will be working with his mechanic and shift foreman. I hope to learn heaps out of this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reverendzed Posted October 18, 2008 Author Share Posted October 18, 2008 It's amazing what you can pick up from others if you're willing to learn and it saves heaps of bucks too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brabham Posted October 19, 2008 Share Posted October 19, 2008 Hi Rev nice work on the hatch. Just wondering did you use any black windscreen sealant anywhere on the rubber seal? Do you think this would be necessary to prevent water seeping between the seal and the paint and rusting around the screen as this seems to be a common rust area e.g. around glass and seals, most old zed hatches have this problem. Was wondering if I had to put a large amount of this sealant around seal to try and keep the water out Final question what brand was the seal you got from rare spares. Thanks for your info have to fit windscreen at some stage soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reverendzed Posted October 19, 2008 Author Share Posted October 19, 2008 Hey Brabham, I sent you a PM the other day about the hatch, let me know if you didn't get it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Posted October 19, 2008 Share Posted October 19, 2008 Michael because I'm painting in my workshop at home I use Acrylic lacquer because it flashes off so quick and doesn't allow dust to embed so easily, unlike 2 pac which you're not supposed to spray outside of a booth or enamel which take longer to flash (dry between coats) The beauty of lacquer is that I can lay down 3 coats of color and 3 coats of clear, allow it to dry (overnight) wet sand it and polish and it comes up like glass! it's also very forgiving if you make a mistake as you can rub it back easily ad touch it up. I'm self taught and been playing with body work and paint for years and I'm still learning by sourcing info on the web etc. Good luck with your project. Rev. Ah i see rev! Now i know whats going on, And yep your completely correct! xD The acrylic lacquers we use at work always tend to be a Nicer neater finish although (just from work perspective) Our ppg Paints (acrylic) Basecoat colors Tend to dry out perfectly and spray on even better, But normally for most jobs we use a Autothane 2k paint which always gets crap in it such such, but is cheaper As for Enamel paints ive been told NEVER to use an Enamel paint as once its on its on, Only acrylic Paints can be Resprayed (unless its gone back to bare metal i suppose, ) But yeah, Incredible job Mate, Especially with silver which can be a pain to paint =.= - Michael, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brabham Posted October 22, 2008 Share Posted October 22, 2008 Hey, Just wondering what the original paint on Zeds was, I am assuming it was enamel although mine has been resprayed at some point. Is there a paint color code anywhere on the plates? Have been using a bit of acrylic for small areas and panel beaters these days only seem to want to do 2 pak. Are acrylic/ enamel/ 2-pak compatible with overspraying as I had a small reaction when I sprayed some enamel on a section. Thoughts rev and Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reverendzed Posted October 22, 2008 Author Share Posted October 22, 2008 Hey, Just wondering what the original paint on Zeds was, I am assuming it was enamel although mine has been resprayed at some point. Is there a paint color code anywhere on the plates? Have been using a bit of acrylic for small areas and panel beaters these days only seem to want to do 2 pak. Are acrylic/ enamel/ 2-pak compatible with overspraying as I had a small reaction when I sprayed some enamel on a section. Thoughts rev and Michael As far as I am aware the original finish would have been either a lacquer of baked enamel finish. The great thing about lacquer is that it will go over just about anything without reacting whereas 2 pac will not go over lacquer without often 'frying' up the same with some enamels which will react to any silicone or grease (even hand marks). If you are doing your own paint you can't go past lacquer as not only is it an easy home setup but it is also very durable. Example is someone put a large scratch down on of my doors, I was able to sand it out of the clear with 1200 and then polish it, you'd never know. The code for the paint is on one of I.D plates under the bonnet normally a 3 digit number I think. Rev. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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