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Widest Tyre/Rim Combo on 260z


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#21 Hunter

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Posted 30 September 2008 - 06:25 PM

Big mac it all depends on what look you are going for, but the wheels that look like superlites actually look like the era correct WATANBE wheels. That were used on racing zeds of the time in Japan.

#22 bigmac123_99

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Posted 30 September 2008 - 07:05 PM

stevo, i have been quoted that price for froffesionally done and engineered minitubs which include a pair of new coild over shocks which are re located obviously so that sorta money for some shocks is a bit steep i think.
i dont een think it would cost that much to replace your shocks with ohlins shocks and some tein springs.
but hey, some ppl quote whatever they feel there work is worth i sauppose.

and as far as wheels go, im almost certain that im gonna get some ROH modulars made up for me.

i almost got some for the torana and regretted not doin i ever since and ive vowed to myself that this car im doin it all properly and not gonna skimp on the funding even if it means waiting couple of extra weeks just to pay for a component.

#23 stevo_gj

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Posted 01 October 2008 - 01:28 AM

I think someone was trying to rip you off with that quote Steve. Parts are around $300- to $400- for the rear then it's labour to do the job. You might want to have a chat to some fellow members who had done the same.

stevo, i have been quoted that price for froffesionally done and engineered minitubs which include a pair of new coild over shocks which are re located obviously so that sorta money for some shocks is a bit steep i think.
i dont een think it would cost that much to replace your shocks with ohlins shocks and some tein springs.


Wow! So I'm paying currently $477x2 (front and rear koni reds) and $204 for King Springs. Total: $1158 just these parts

If I went the coilover route then I would still need to Koni reds but I would be paying ~$400+labor to make the coilovers. Total would end up being $1100+$400+labor = $1500+labor for these parts?

This seems like a good option, as it will significantly increase my wheel choices and allow me to go for a deeper dish. If I have misunderstood anything let me know now, because I'm going to take this to Fulcrum Suspension and get them to update the quote. I originally figured I wouldn't go the coilover route because of the significant increase in cost but looking at these numbers I don't see how I got that impression.

Thanks guys  ;D


#24 Hunter

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Posted 01 October 2008 - 03:58 AM

For Tein coil overs you will be looking at around $3000. This was just a rough off the top of the head figure given by Jimmy of Fulcrum.

I think Fulcrum can do Bilstien coil overs for cheaper.

Take a look at this thread Bigmac.
http://www.viczcar.c...pic,2672.0.html

#25 620Z

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Posted 02 October 2008 - 08:56 AM

Just make sure when you get the front shockers that they are the shortened type. As with the coil overs you can easily lower the car a few inch's. If you do this, standard length shockers will bottom out and eventually break.

#26 bigmac123_99

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Posted 02 October 2008 - 12:36 PM

yeah this is a pretty important point when lowering all cars.
fortunately i have a tendency when building cars that if i have to remove something to mod something, it doesnt go back on the car, if i take it off i figure i might as well replace it with new stuff so i wont have to worry about it for a while so all my setup is going to be matched to everything.

#27 Shan

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Posted 11 January 2010 - 06:48 PM

pulling up an old post here...

The picture of the 260z 2+2 in the post is exactly the look I want to achieve. Has inspired me to do something very similar.

From my research, this car is "apparently" running 17x10 rear (with 255/40x17 tyre) and 17x9.5 front (with 235/40x17).  Now - I have been reading thru posts...but still getting my head around things.  If I understand - to fit this sort of rubber - it would seem that coil over suspension is the only way?  I see various prices quoted for this, but nothing firm.  Also there's a mention of Fulcrum Suspension who do good work, but they are in QLD.

So..what I need to clarify is the following...

1. To fit 17x9.5 (or 17x10) with bigger 255/40x17 (as per 260z in the post), I must fit coil over suspension (along with the various strut modifications required)?  Am I right?  Or after adding some decent koni classic struts and king springs can you fit that sort of Rim and rubber with std setup?

2. Seems like coil over gives flexibility for more wheel options anyway - can someone point me in the right direction for a contact in MELBOURNE who does this work on Z's?

Appreciate any advice you can offer.

Shan


#28 Sirpent

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Posted 11 January 2010 - 07:19 PM

Theres an eastern European bloke out in Melbournes outer east who does this kind of work.

Lurcher Automotive P/L

Cheers

John

#29 Toecutter

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Posted 11 January 2010 - 09:12 PM

pulling up an old post here...

The picture of the 260z 2+2 in the post is exactly the look I want to achieve. Has inspired me to do something very similar.

From my research, this car is "apparently" running 17x10 rear (with 255/40x17 tyre) and 17x9.5 front (with 235/40x17).  Now - I have been reading thru posts...but still getting my head around things.  If I understand - to fit this sort of rubber - it would seem that coil over suspension is the only way?  I see various prices quoted for this, but nothing firm.  Also there's a mention of Fulcrum Suspension who do good work, but they are in QLD.

So..what I need to clarify is the following...

1. To fit 17x9.5 (or 17x10) with bigger 255/40x17 (as per 260z in the post), I must fit coil over suspension (along with the various strut modifications required)?  Am I right?  Or after adding some decent koni classic struts and king springs can you fit that sort of Rim and rubber with std setup?

2. Seems like coil over gives flexibility for more wheel options anyway - can someone point me in the right direction for a contact in MELBOURNE who does this work on Z's?

Appreciate any advice you can offer.

Shan


You don't really need coil over. You can fit 17x9 with approx -13 offset on the front and 17x9.5 with -19 offset rear. Tyres for front that you need are 225x45 and 245 x 40 for the rear. I ran 255x40 but 245x40 would look and clear more nicley. This is with ZG flares as per the pic you were looking at on thje2+2 a page back or so!?

Sulio

#30 Shan

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Posted 12 January 2010 - 08:23 AM

Cheers Sulio. 

Yep - the pic a page or so back is exactly what I was looking to achieve.

Will look into the price of coil over suspension also, but given my budget, may just stick to basic quality suspension upgrades - particularly if the rim and rubber I want can squeeze onto the car as is. 

Appreciate the advice re. tyre size selection also mate.

Ta

#31 620Z

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Posted 12 January 2010 - 02:12 PM

Shan coil overs are around 2" narrower than the standard Zed suspension. This obviously allows your mags & tyre to go in under the guards around another 1" (inwards) obviously allowing for a wider wheel combination.

#32 Shan

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Posted 12 January 2010 - 05:46 PM

Figured coilovers allowed for rubber and rim.  Suspect I will upgrade, but stick to the original type of setup.  Wheels shown in previous pick are aggressive enough for me.  In addition, I plan to fit ZG flares anyway, so coilover suspension will not be necessary.
Cheers.

#33 Shan

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Posted 17 June 2010 - 05:29 PM

Ok.  I'm am confused.  Easily done.  So need some help.

This photo has rattled me a little.

These are RB's: 17x9.5 -19 rear and 17x9 -13 on the front apparently.
Car looks great, but I thought that 17's, with that particular offset combination, are supposed to "fill out" ZG flares.

Jpav (the owner) indicates that he has rolled the guards in the rear - that's it.  These do not look like they will fill out ZG's at all.  Even with a spacer.

I am missing something quite obvious here aren't I?  I did not think RB 17x9.5 -13 offset were supposed to fit under the rears guards without chopping them.

I also understand that Jays grey zed (that UK 2+2) with the Arrow style wheels (previously mentioned in this post), had very similar wheel size (.5" wider) and same offset as the RB's, yet his fill out ZG's really well.  Look totally different.

What am I missing here?

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#34 620Z

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Posted 18 June 2010 - 08:26 AM

The only thing you are missing is the offset. I have 17x9's all round and fit under the guards easy. If you want flares then go for it. Then pich a rim/tyre combo with the offset to push the wheel out and fill the guard.

#35 Shan

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Posted 18 June 2010 - 08:59 AM

Ok - figured it was something like that.

So what is the right offset to fill out the ZG's on a 2+2 then? 

With everything I have been reading I thought it was 17x9.5 -19 rear and 17x9 -13 on the front.
Pretty sure that is what everyone on the forum has indicated as well. 

If the above picture is a reflection of these offsets (-19/-13) on a 2+2, then everything I have been thinking/told is not right.  No way they will fill out ZG's with that offset.

Anyone point me in the right direction with 17" wheels offsets for 2+2 for filling out ZG's?

Shan


#36 benny

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Posted 18 June 2010 - 09:43 AM

hi shan,

the 2+2 has slightly different offset (i think). The RB's in the offset you quoted will work great for 2 seaters.

The only rims you will find to fill out zgs are wats, roh, arrows, steelies, any cusatom wheels really or some old school jap ones, and maybe performance alloys (http://www.performan...els_classic.asp)


Ben :)

#37 Zedman240®

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Posted 18 June 2010 - 05:18 PM

Keep in mind that +2's have a heap more wheel room in the rear than 2 seaters so you will need wheels with a more positive offset to fill out ZG flares if you are fitting them.

#38 Shan

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Posted 18 June 2010 - 06:04 PM

Sorry about all the questions, but since I am close to ordering wheels - really want to make sure I am on the right track...

Also know this has been done to death on the 2 seaters...so apologies.  Figured this may help some others with 2+2 tho.

Been thinking about this some more.....

Jay's 2+2 in previous posts definitely has the following:
"Suspension is Eibach lowering springs and standard shocks and no spacers.
Offset is 17 x 10 -19mm offset and front 17 x 9.5 -13."

EXACTLY same offset as RB Rotas above.

Only diff is half an inch in Width - which is a bit over a 1cm.

Similar dimensions, but they look WAY different to RB's.  Better I think (on a 2+2 anyways).

If you can imagine popping flares on the 2+2 with RB's posted above - I could easily see the RB's getting a bit lost under the extra guard width.

I just can't believe Jays 2+2 and the Blue 2+2 below, have EXACTLY the same offset as the RB's above.  Blue Z has same dimension wheels as Jays Grey 2+2 as well (10" rear and 9.5" front).

Crazy how different they all look....
Same offsets!

Dimitri - not sure going positive will help fill out the ZG's though?  Thought it would be more important (visually at least) to go negative offset?





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#39 Zedman240®

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Posted 18 June 2010 - 06:48 PM

A more positive offset means more of a dish on the outside of the wheel whereas a more negative offset means no dish on the wheel; like you see on alot of late model front wheel drive cars. My Toyota for example uses -38mm offset wheels. The hub face is past halfway and more towards the outside of the wheel.

http://www.carbibles..._bible_pg4.html

That will explain it better than me...

#40 PZG302

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Posted 19 June 2010 - 01:18 PM

A more positive offset means more of a dish on the outside of the wheel whereas a more negative offset means no dish on the wheel; like you see on alot of late model front wheel drive cars. My Toyota for example uses -38mm offset wheels. The hub face is past halfway and more towards the outside of the wheel.

http://www.carbibles..._bible_pg4.html

That will explain it better than me...


Other way round..... Positive offset wheels are what modern cars use and negative offset for old school cars. The negative offset wheels have the deep dish look and that's what you need to fill the guards and flares with a zed.




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