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Vacuum Advance on new dizzy

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Hey all

 

Just fitted a electronic dizzy from a an r30 skyline and want to know where the vacuum advance connects to. My previous dizzy was a scorcher points one but it didnt have a vacuum advance. i have a connection on my manifold which goes to my brake booster. Where else can i connect it?

 

Sach...Thanks in advance :D

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Hey Sach,

Someone was telling me last week that an electronic dizzy doesn't require the vacuum advance, mine is running without vac advance!  Hopefully someone else can either back this up or give clearer advise.

Rev.

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Most seem not to run them. The Auto brake Booster connection on the manifold has another smaller line running off it. If you get one of these you can run it off that but beware from my research you have to run the right amount of vaccum to the dizzy which may require restriction. I just fitted a 280ZX Dizzy to mine and WOW what a difference. No more carby ( triple Dellortos ) issues and an extra 100 klms per tank city cycle. Best thing i ever did.

 

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ah k thanks Rev. i will look into it

 

They are my dreams to Scooter, to get my car started easily in the mornings, better mileage, but i cant seem to get the bloody thing running. I have checked for a spark, its there, im just worried about if my cylinder 1 lead is in the right position. Before i took out the old dizzy i cranked it to the tdc as haynes said, or i think i did coz both cam lobes were clear of the valves.

Would the position of cylinder 1 be the same or will it have changed because when i installed the new dizzy the rotor was pointing towards the driver.

 

Can anyone shed light on my problem

Thanks

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Would the position of cylinder 1 be the same or will it have changed because when i installed the new dizzy the rotor was pointing towards the driver.

Here is your problem.

 

Have a good read of the Haynes Manual, Sach about the Dizzy install.

Getting the half moons of the cam drive in the correct spot is critical, because it sounds like you're 180deg out.

No 1. plug lead on the dizzy cap 'should' be facing the radiator, as should the rotor botton at TDC.

 

 

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Ok update, im trying to find the exact TDC. Haynes says to aline the notch on the pulley and the referance on the engine front. I think i found the notcj but not to sure on the engine markings. The only markings i have found are these (pics). The first pic im guessing is the notch on the crank puley and the second are some markings i found on the front cover

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Clean that plate with the markings 0   10   20 marked on it. Thats you timing marks and 0 is TDC. The plate is in your first photo bottom center.

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Yikes!!! The rotor is supposed to be like the one in this pic i just took.

 

That means that the distributor drive is not set properly. I had the same problem when i bought a new points distributor. This requires you to take off the oil pump and set it up right. On page 22 of the Haynes manual you can find the info that you need.

 

If you are still having problems PM me and i'll call you and try to walk you through it.

post-762-144023497116_thumb.jpg

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So when i remove the oil pump, will it let the tongue on the distributor gear be loose so i can adjust it or do i have to go underneath the car to adjust it through the oil pump mount.

Thanks for your help mate

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When you take the four bolts off the pump make sure you have a container to catch the oil. The distributor drive is driven by a worm gear which as it drops out will twist so when you reinstall it you will have to set it back so when it twists you set it as the drawing on page 22 of the Haynes manual Fig 1.26. Correct distributor drive alingment.

 

It may take a couple of goes to get it right but i tend to push the drive into place and then grab it from the top with a set of small pliers so i can get it correct and then push a flat blade screwdriver down beside the drive to make sure it stays there.

 

If you install the oil pump back on and its not going in adjust the drive slot in the pump so it lines up with the male slot of the drive.

 

Most times you can take the pump off without destroying the gasket too.

 

:)

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wow seems like alot of work. Haynes doesnt seem to mention anything about a worm gear dropping out, thats what im worried about, if im not able to put it back in properly

 

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Heres one out of the car. You can see the slash cut gear drive down the bottom. As you install it, it will turn to match up with the gear internal drive. This is a one piece unit and apart from the oily mess it's a really easy operation especially if there is no splash tray under the car.

post-762-14402349725_thumb.jpg

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Thanks mate i'll have a go need to get a hold of my jack first. I see what you mean but when it rotates will the punch mark and oil hole misalign as it twists.

Thanks again for all your help

 

Regards

Sach :D

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Once you get it out you'll see what i mean. It will take a couple of goes to get it set right as you have to set it two notchs (from memory) back and as it pushes into place it will twist. It's hard to explain but once you do get it out i'm sure you'll nut it out.

 

Good Luck.

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I see what you mean. If you install the drive in the right way these will naturally line up. Those marks are there to make sure you get the drive in the right way and not 180 degrees out.

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The other alternative is to simply to loosen the adjusting locknut on the distributor, and rotate the body of it anticlockwise until the tip of the rotor lines up with the lead for number 1 in the distributor cap.  Assuming you don't have the distributor 180 degrees out, it should start then, and you just need to get the timing light on it and set the timing at idle to spec.  Going by the photos, you are currently set to somewhere around 40-50 degrees advance, which is why it won't start - the spark plug is going off while the piston is still on its way up on the compression stroke, and is halting the engines momentum, meaning it can't actually spin fast enough to start.

 

Yes, I know it won't be set up exactly as factory (in terms of where everything lines up to), BUT you know how its set, and it will work fine, as the only thing that really matters is that the tip of the rotor button is hitting number 1 on the dizzy cap at just before TDC when number 1 cylinder is on its compression stroke.  Also, its a lot quicker and easier than resetting your drive gear!

 

As a side note, if you've been cranking it over a lot to try and start it, its probably worth pulling the plugs out and cleaning them before attempting to start it after making your adjustments - they may well be fouled with fuel.

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I dont think i had the tdc it night have been the bottom center. This is going by the pictures and what haynes says at TDC the exhaust and intake valves are closed (the cam lobe are clear of the springs)

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d884265fe78183439524615842335c135g.jpg

 

The thing is my rotor is pointing the opposite way could my alignment be that off?

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Crude way out of this is to re-position the ignition leads on the cap 180' so number 1 is at the back. Or else its the oil pump removal and re set.

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Just for a laugh grab both distributors and compare them. I had a points version of a skyline dizzy on mine and when a changed it to an original i had to reset the drive because the distributors were different.

If you get both dizzies and line up the rotors the same, check the drive underneath and see if they line up too. Failing asolution i'm happy to come for a spin and see if i can help you suss it out.

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Hey scooter thanks for the offer might have to be a final resort. I dont want waste your time driving down here. I'll have to get under the car sometime this week, and see what is happening. Its frustrating coz this swap should have taken 2 hours max :(.

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Just an update.

Well i finally got her started... ::). Re-adjusting the drive gear wasnt as much of a chore than i had initially  thought.

Still running a bit rough though (spitting and dies at idle) im guessing some tinkering with the timing should fix it. That'll have to wait till after uni exams though. Cant wait to drive her again its been a long 4 weeks :(

 

Cheers

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