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Zedman240®

Separate "Race car style" Ignition and Start button plug in loom

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For anyone wishing to install a "missile" type ignition switch and start button, this is just a quick "how to" wire it up and make it plug in without butchering any of your original loom. If your ignition switch has stuffed up like mine, and you couldn't be bothered finding a replacement, or just like to have something different, just read on.

The plug is a Narva 6 way spade terminal plug that is available from Repco or Bursons etc, Start button should be a decent, heavy duty item (Hella) and two of the 5 wires (Red + Black see pic below)in the loom are twice the thickness of the rest. Ignition switch can be bought from either Repco or even Jaycar Electronics together with the "missle "switch flip cover. It should be a 20-30 amp toggle switch to handle the amps. All up parts should be around $30 ish dollars.

You will notice that when you have it wired, you will have to make sure any accessory while the engine is cranking should be off. This arrangement lets you have anything "on" (wipers, radio etc) when it should be "off", for any spare power to go to the starter motor for cranking! Or else the engine may not start. I have never tried it so I could be wrong.....

When you have everything, wiring shouldn't take you more than 20 minutes. Just make sure you measure the amount of wire you need to take the switch where you want it and the start button and to hide the wiring. Just have a good set of crimpers and a can of your favorite beverage on hand. I've included a wiring diagram and a pic of my plug for your reference. The plug that goes into the original ignition switch, should plug directly into the Narva plug.

If I have forgotten any details, please ask!

 

Also, when I did this mod to my 240Z, I removed the ignition lock and assembly so no key is needed to start. I don't drive it every day and I do have a battery isolator so I can make the zed hard to steal. But if you wish to retain the steering lock, always insert the key and turn it to run!! before anything!

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Just remember people, keep the key in the Ignition so you don't have the steering lock come on...

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Thanks for the detail Dimitri. I might do the same since my key barrell seems to be playing up. Are there different types of ignition switch's around? You didn't supply a photo of yours. where did you locate it. I am thinking on the console, right hand side above the air vent.

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Its just a large capacity 2 pole two throw toggle switch. Should be able to handle around 20-30 amps. You can also get the missile cover for it for an emergency shut off if needed (not for that ricer look; it actually HAS a function instead of switching on the underbody lights). When I can, Ill post a pic to show more details. The push button must also be a heavy duty switch as well, Hella sell them for that function. I can find part numbers if that will help.

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Just to add to that, Under ADR requirements your car needs to retain the steering locking mechanism as per factory.

It also needs to function as a steering lock that works when the car is off, so you cant just leave it in there and defeat it.

just keep that in mind if you are going to need to go through engineering.

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Someone did a similar modification to my 240K, except you still have to put the key in and turn it to 'on' to get the power to the ignition circuit, then press the button to activate the starter.

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OR, if one is sorta not too keen on this mod, ( I am 'cos I have done it to both my cars), I have two brand new Nissan ignition switches for sale, this is the electrical bit at the back of the barrell that carries all start and ignition loads.

The contacts, after some 30 plus years sorts wear out!

$40 each in a Nissan cardboard box and all!

 

With the above, get the GOOD (expensive) start button, the cheap ones do not have a good flat square surface contact area, and carbon arc up pretty quickly which causes resistance and hard starting.

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Cheers boys. I will have a look at what Jaycar down the road have. If not convinced I will take one of those barrell's off you Dat2kman.

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Hey 620Z, it is not the barrell that the ignition key fits into, it is the actual contacts switch assy that attaches to the key barrell. You keep your old key, but you replace the switch with a new one, rather than try to start the motor with something that could be up to 40 years old and with gobs of carbon causing resistance on the contacts!

No worries, pm me

I have two of these avail

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I may need one Jason, when I do restore everything back to stock, I think my switch has perished..it cuts out the starter if you turn they key too far. When I did this mod, I made sure that all the stock wiring stayed intact. To reverse it, it is a simple job of just unplugging the starter loom and connecting it back to the factory switch.

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note, if you dont want to run a heavy duty switch, for whatever reason, run the wiring as per the diagram, but replace the switch with a relay, and then run the triggern wires tot he switch, cuts the load ont he switch down tremendously.

 

I did this to cut the fuel pump power as an added "kill switch" and it works perfectly and no need for thick wires/ chunky switches

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Just wanted to thank Dimitri for giving me a hand last Saturday to instal the new "Start" button on my car. Worked first time perfectly after only a few hours and is fantastic. Luckily I have an alarm and immobiliser on the car. So now I just hop in, disarm the alarm, switch on the accessories and press the Start button.  Vroooooom.  ;D

No more key barrell issues and steering lock. Cool. $30- from China delivered for a good quality switch complete with relay. Happy days.

Thanks again Dimitri.

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