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#221 nizm0zed

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Posted 20 September 2016 - 09:37 PM

Cheers mate!

Im sure I could help knock something up, so long as you dont need any aluminum welded. I dont have the equipment for that.

I was planning on making a rear strut brace that is welded to the mounts that bolt on top of the struts, where the seat belt retractors bolt on.
That'll do until I put a half cage in it



#222 dat240z

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Posted 21 September 2016 - 07:21 PM

Im sure you're metal skills would be much more professional than mine! Well, judging by the work you've already done on your Z anyway! Plus its a good excuse to come check out your Z.

 

You're going a half cage huh?



#223 nizm0zed

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Posted 21 September 2016 - 08:50 PM

im thinking a half cage will do wonders to stiffen up the chassis, look cool and not get in the way of the seating area.
Im getting too old to be crawling over roll cage bars to go for a sunday drive



#224 nizm0zed

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Posted 08 December 2016 - 12:30 PM

just a little update this time.
Im still plugging away at the interior, but part of that has meant buying a sewing machine and learning how to sew haha
Ive finished the center console, glove box and lh lower side of the dash and covered them in a suede type material.
31497009705_5d1e600454_b.jpg


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#225 dat240z

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Posted 08 December 2016 - 03:10 PM

Coming along nicely mate

#226 chris240

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Posted 08 December 2016 - 05:15 PM

Alan, I need the hem on my trousers adjusted and my daughter needs new curtains... :)
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#227 chartoo

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Posted 08 December 2016 - 10:41 PM

What dash is it? And how much did you have to modify it? Went back a few pages but couldnt find the answer



#228 nizm0zed

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Posted 09 December 2016 - 08:57 AM

Its a R34 Skyline dash, its all on the page before, 2nd last post.
I havent tackled the drivers side of the dash yet, have to get rid of a POS on my driveway so i can turn the zed around.
Ill give my trimming skills a chance at the top half of the dash, but that may end up getting done by a pro. We'll see how it comes out.



#229 nizm0zed

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Posted 05 April 2017 - 11:03 PM

So I was inspired by the 'what have you done to your car today' thread.
I haven't actually done anything to my car worthy of posting, but I have been busy with another toy I've wanted for a very long time.

I picked up a 2 post Tecalemit hoist from a friend, it had been sitting in his paddock for a while.
I made a slow drive home with a very overloaded trailer, but we made it all in one piece.
(yes, I used an engine crane to lift it all on and off the trailer, lol)

33854221385_b2bb53229b_b.jpg

It looks pretty rough, but its not too bad. I needed to strip a lot of it down to clean it up, but mainly to make it a manageable weight for me to move around on my own.

33724532211_c9c981bab2_b.jpg

 

I worked out where it was going to sit, then made some base extensions to make it a bit more stable as I wasn't 100% sure about the concrete it was going to be bolted down to. the last thing i want is the hoist tipping over while something is on it (not that I ever plan on lifting up any big 4wd's)

33697930112_77522eae25_b.jpg

 

Once that was sorted I moved the arms off to the side to start getting painted and I lifted one of the posts up into position.
I had worked out that it would be easier to do it this way, manually winding the lift carriage up and down between power washing and re-greasing and re-painting.
It also gave me a chance to check the clearance on the screw and make sure its still within spec.
Turns out it has almost no wear on it at all, so its either been refurbished at some point in its life, or its not that old to start with.
Either way, win for me.
33469502500_42805c1056_b.jpg

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From here it was a lot of cleaning, painting, greasing and heavy lifting as I assembled both posts, attached the arms and drive chain.
It was originally a 3 phase motor and contactor switch, so im in the process of sourcing 240v gear for it.
But its assembled and looks good!!
33697799282_26335364e4_b.jpg

So, after thoughts...
I have wanted a hoist for many years. You can buy them new for around $1500 or second hand for anywhere from $500 upwards.
Screw type hoists are a lot safer than hydraulic because the screw also acts as a safety system, whereas hydraulic use a locking pin arrangement, however screw type hoists need a high torque motor to make them move. This one has a 4kw motor on it.
3 Phase hydraulic hoists are a lot cheaper and easier to convert to 240v and keep the circuit load under 15A
Its arguable that hydraulic type hoists are less suitable for outside environments due to UV damage to hydraulic lines, oil reservoir ect ect, but any equipment outside is going to require a lot more maintenance anyway.
My options were to either keep it 3 phase and set up a phase changer ($6k), get 3 phase connected to the house, or convert to 240v.
I got a phone quote of $20,000 to connect to the 3 phase service on the pole behind my garage and was told that I would then be charged a commercial rate for my home power where I would be charged for 3 phase power even if it wasn't being used. This could also risk the council asking why a residential premises is being charged a commercial rate and come investigating, no thanks, lol.
Converting to 240v means a new motor $400 approx + new switch contactor $200 and new 32A circuit to the garage $1500
My slab is 100mm thick but I don't know if its rebar reinforced. To get a slab poured is around $2-3k
Ideally id have a hydraulic type hoist on 240v inside my garage, but my roof height is too low.
Hoists are a lot more expensive than you would have initially thought, but I can tell you now I'll be smiling every time because im getting too old to be crawling around on the ground.

Next post, car stuff, I promise...


Edited by nizm0zed, 05 April 2017 - 11:14 PM.

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#230 Cozza

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Posted 06 April 2017 - 08:34 AM

Awesome, very jealous.
Just a thought with your 100mm slab, if rock is close to the surface (like my place) you could anchor directly into rock using galvanised bars and grout.
Shoot me a pm if it sounds like something you're interested in.
Cheers
Mick

#231 nizm0zed

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Posted 06 April 2017 - 10:46 AM

nothing but dirt under my slab. my house is built on what used to be a flat plain used for farmland.
I am using concrete screws instead of dynabolts, Apparently they are better suited to old concrete (Especially near edges) because they dont have a tendency to split the concrete apart.



#232 Cozza

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Posted 06 April 2017 - 11:07 PM

Yep Ankascrews and chemical anchors are generally a better option than expansion (mechanical) anchors for edge distance limitations as well as mass/unreinforced concrete
😉

#233 Neuby

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Posted 08 April 2017 - 07:47 AM

PM sent RE slab.  I typically design 100mm slabs for dealership services areas unless ground conditions are poor or they have a specific jack generating a point load.



#234 nizm0zed

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Posted 08 April 2017 - 02:12 PM

Cheers Neuby,

Ive added your PM here because its real good information that im sure someone will find handy later.
 

Hey mate,

 

I thought I'd add my 2 cents about your slab.  After all I'm RPEQ structural engineer, might as well help out if I can!

 

If your using it regularly ie. something on the hoist more than 6 hours a day.  It would pay to check the edge.  If the slab is 100mm thick throughout it would pay to move the hoist away from the edge of the concrete if possible.  500mm to centre of the post is ideal for a 100mm slab.  One way to check is to dig down the side or drill through to check if an edge thickening has been installed.

 

Chemical anchors are preferred for durability.  Being out in the weather subject to greater variances in temperature, the differential volume changes will be greater between metal and concrete.  Mechanical anchors relying on friction can loose capacity.

 

Another option we add up in this situation is cutting squared of concrete out and installing bored piers under the posts.  This is heaps cheaper than a slab and can be done by anyone.  

 

Hope that helps.

 

Without going and measuring it for accuracy, the edge of the hoist is around 300mm away from the edge of the slab, From what I remember in the installation manual thats about the minimum distance they reccomend from the edge, using dyna bolts.
Concrete screws should be fine with that.
I'll probably only realistically use the hoist 20 times a year max, more likely to be less than 6 times a year, so I should be right, but it'll be something i'll be keeping an eye on for many years to come.


Edited by nizm0zed, 08 April 2017 - 02:17 PM.


#235 PB260Z

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Posted 12 April 2017 - 07:42 PM

Hi

There is some good advice given already.
The only thing I would add is, if you were to cut / dig and put piers in, I would set some HT theaded rod into the piers rather than installing anchors after the the fact.

Cheers

PB

#236 Hokin

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Posted 09 August 2017 - 08:27 PM

Hi Nizm0zed,

 

Been reading your build thread recently and you do some incredible work. Couldn't help but notice that this looks like the original air intake manifold you made for your L28 Turbo engine (not sure if its the same one or not):

https://www.gumtree....ric-/1155551123

 

Keep it up!

 

Cheers,
Adam


Edited by Hokin, 09 August 2017 - 08:28 PM.

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#237 nizm0zed

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Posted 12 August 2017 - 05:34 PM

hahaha, yea thats my manifold.
I dont think its worth $700 but someone else might.






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