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actually, its feb 76.

thats when ADR27a was introduced.

everything before that can vent to atmo.

remember though, you still need to comply to noise rules, so if its too loud, it can still fail.

 

you are right though pre 73, just about anything goes.

up till 02/76 there are some rules, but not many.

after that, you cant vent to atmo (turbo, crankcase ect), you need a charcoal canister, PCV ect ect.

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okies, been working on my new manifold.

 

firstly, i found a brilliant free program on the net, for working out how to cut pipes so they fit together.

its a massive timesaver.

http://metalgeek.com/static/cope.pcgi

 

from there, i started with a runner, cut to roughly the right length.

20643934836_38e069364f_b.jpg11012009215 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

 

then i got my template.

20660976102_2a742092ac_b.jpg11012009217 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

 

put it on my pipe,

20676914801_fb4a291bf6_b.jpg11012009216 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

 

marked it with spraypaint,

20660974612_d422f6a8b3_b.jpg11012009218 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

 

and cut out the painted bit.

20482199430_3d5b0a9f0d_b.jpg11012009219 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

 

from there, i took my new peice of pipe, and marked it against the plenum, again with spraypaint.

just hold it against it, and spray around it.

i cut that out, and trimmed the hole.

after that hole was perfect, i made a template of it, to do the other holes.

20643915366_413d270b83_b.jpg10012009206 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

20049241213_829fde9c4c_b.jpg10012009207 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

20670195235_4649c4ace8_b.jpg10012009205 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

20047659484_bdd0383d22_b.jpg10012009210 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

 

the other holes were marked, and cut, needing LOTS of careful drilling, and then grinding out with a die grinder.

20482214808_8727705b30_b.jpg10012009211 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

20047656564_7af19beb35_b.jpg10012009212 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

20049266943_b40818435f_b.jpg10012009213 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

20482210160_13afceb175_b.jpg10012009214 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

20660970242_082620e70b_b.jpg11012009220 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

 

once i had done all the runners, it was all carefully placed together, to see the fit.

20670201435_41296e4b13_b.jpg11012009223 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

20676903231_070fec9afc_b.jpg11012009224 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

 

you can see that each runner is numbered, thats because each runner is ground specifically for each hole, as they arent a 100% even match. this ensures that it'll all be as close as possible when i weld it together.

 

now i have to make a jig, to keep all the runners even, and in the right spot, so i can weld them to the plenum, then trim the ends to the right length and weld on the peice of manifold that i trimmed earlier.

once thats done, i'll smooth out everything inside, and weld on an end plate and throttle body mount.

then i can keep doing the intercooler piping, and mount that stupidly oversized BOV. ;D

 

yes, lots of pics i know, but this is the first one i have done, and i figure others would like to see how easy it is to actually do in your own garage.

this is all done with simple tools, a hacksaw, 4" grinder, hand files, die grinder, cardboard and markers.

If you dont have the facilities to weld it together, you can allways take it to a shop to be done for you.

 

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looks good to me, how did u work out what large diameter tube to use? does it have the same cross sectional area of the 6 smaller tubes or ?

 

actually, its feb 76.

thats when ADR27a was introduced.

everything before that can vent to atmo

 

my car was made in january 76! so that makes me very happy, the vin plate only has adr 27 listed, seems like i narrowly dodged a bullet there...

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I picked the diameter of the tube for the plenum out of thin air ;D

 

no really, i did.

 

im sure there is a fair bit of math, and theory to it, but i went with the rule that the capacity should at least be the same as the engine capacity, that and the 4 inch tube matched well with the throttle body that'll go on there.

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actually, its feb 76.

thats when ADR27a was introduced.

everything before that can vent to atmo.

remember though, you still need to comply to noise rules, so if its too loud, it can still fail.

 

you are right though pre 73, just about anything goes.

up till 02/76 there are some rules, but not many.

after that, you cant vent to atmo (turbo, crankcase ect), you need a charcoal canister, PCV ect ect.

 

 

Sorry if i'm asking obious questions, or if askin them in the wrong place but, ok here is my delema, in nsw 1976 260 though have a 74 in the shed so I could say its a 74, its fitted with a rb20 of the 1990's do i need to comply with these ADR or not, including blowoff valves, pod filter and width of tires? or where can i find the rules

 

any help would be GREATLY appretiated 

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  • 2 weeks later...

well, still around, finished a 16 day week (in retail :o) and had the weekend off, back to work on monday for 7 days straight.

I have a full week off after that, so hoping to get a bit done.

 

i have mounted my willwood rear bias adjuster, and have been working on the wiring under the dash.

I have incorporated the Alarm, Central locking, power mirrors, windows and stereo into the factory loom, Inc proper plug connections.

worst bit is i have to anticipate how i may change the car later down the track, and put the wires in now for it.

Im thinking with the big ass space that was left under the dash after removing the heater box, i'll mount the amplifier, and build a carputer for it, replacing the heater controls with a 10" touch screen.

yea bling i know, but isnt it obvious im not interested in concours?

short term though, it'll just be a regular stereo for the sake of some tunes.

 

more progress pics in a week, i promise :)

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i was thinking when making my intake to slice the pipe in harf so i can get a better seal then have it bolted together with a flang around that.

so it can have a gasket and yet not restrict the airflow.

u are one very tiddy worker.

i wish my cars where that clean

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  • 4 weeks later...

well, been working hard over the last few weeks, so i haven't had much time to work on the car.

but, i have managed to do a few small jobs in my limited spare time.

 

most of it is very unexciting, so not really picture worthy.

just been doing all the under dash wiring.

and finishing off the brakes.

 

as i mentioned in one of my posts before, i mounted the bias valve, and finished the lines, just need to polish it all up now.

20483775369_251aee309d_b.jpg03022009229 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

20483773089_3baa3073d5_b.jpg03022009230 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

20670516435_b41689bb0d_b.jpg03022009228 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

 

I have removed the heater box, and have ran the main power wiring inside to the battery thats mounted in the foot well,

a distribution block came in handy for all the new power wires.

I had to make up a new bracket for my custom fuel line brackets to bolt onto, as they previously went onto the heater box mounting points.

I also rerouted the coolant pipe on the side of the motor.

20482571780_6e3fd4988a_b.jpg04022009231 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

20644266616_edb57919c4_b.jpg01012009201 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

20482538598_b7a06c34e4_b.jpg07022009233 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

 

because i removed parts of the engine bay wiring, eg, the shunt and fusible links, and had to move the coil wiring and temp sender wiring to the passenger side of the firewall, i have gone to the effort of making it all stock like.

So, along with the alarm wiring, stereo etc, its all neatly routed in place, and wrapped in black electrical tape.

the EFI wiring was needed too, so thats all mostly in place now.

I cant build the manifold loom till i finish the basic manifold, but i needed to build a relay and fuse box for all the extras going into the car.

 

So, one engine bay fuse box salvaged from a VR commo + some creative wiring and a custom mount bracket =

20482565698_fa89ea5f62_b.jpg21022009237 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

 

the white plug you can see under it, and the loom that comes off it, is the ECU loom. its all integrated into the relay and fuse box, its pretty much all standalone to the rest of the car, there is only a big fat power wire, ground wire, Ignition switched wire, and the aforementioned coil and coolant temp wires connected to it.

it'll make it very easy to adapt to a microtech later on down the track.

for now, two of the fuses are left out, one is for the thermo fan power and relay, the other is for the heater system i still have to build.

 

and, how its mounted in the car.

20482570538_dd7e267143_b.jpg21022009240 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

 

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  • 1 month later...

well, been working hard again.

 

got some wire for my mig, and connected up my gas bottle, so i thought i may as well tack the manifold together so i could do the engine wiring loom.

 

I got carried away, and welded up most of the manifold.

20482754790_26922ef726_b.jpg21032009251 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

 

yea, messy i know, but i havent mig welded in a LONG time, and this is the first time i have ever done alloy.

anyways, i ground back my welds, and cleaned everything up.

20644481986_dc4412c8ab_b.jpg22032009254 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

 

once that was done, i started working on the loom.

I had a rough idea of how i wanted to do it, and to be honest, im real damn impressed with the end result.

the top pipe will house the throttle cable, and i will weld the throttle body on an angle.

Just need to make up a plate for it, and buy a throttle body.

those 100mm billet alloy ones are looking mighty tempting ;D

20661517962_06266fd853_b.jpg22032009258 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

20644479916_0187f50ed1_b.jpg22032009255 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

 

I will start on the fuel rail soon, and get that in place.

I have a peice of extruded rail, ready for the job.

I need to find a workshop capable of drilling out the injector bosses, and making sure the finish is diamond smooth.

Otherwise they have a tendency to leak.

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I love these kind of work logs!  Shows off people's various talents and ingenuity.

 

It'll be interesting to see how this manifold turns out on many levels.

 

Are you re-drilling the bosses at the existing injector location or are you moving the injectors?

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I'll be using the origional injector holes, i have a plan for how to attach the rail, and hold the injectors in place, in one neat little package, and not have unused holes left over looking messy, but you'll have to wait ;)

 

this is definately a learning experience for me too, in many parts of the car.

the manifold is a damn good example of that, i have never built one before.

there are little things, like making my own pipe clamps, and in the case of the ones on the plenum, i had to make the mounts for them, by tapping a thread into some pipe, then weld the pipe to the plenum, then cut to length, because the drill and tap wouldnt fit between the runners.

 

another area of the manifold, is that i would rather build one using more advanced principles and design for better results, its just out of my league at the moment.

maybe the next one?

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  • 2 weeks later...

well, got the rail drilled by M&A engineering.

 

I dropped my injectors off for servicing, and flowbenching.

I welded on the throttle body, and the back of the plenum.

that was jigsawed out of a peice of 10mm thick plate.

I needed it thick enough that i could tap directly into it.

20484149469_90a4078016_b.jpg07042009261 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

20677592851_f54dac2546_b.jpg07042009262 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

20049940763_935a4f7b57_b.jpg07042009267 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

20644609776_13e3b86b9a_b.jpg07042009268 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

 

aaaaaaand, just for the hell of it,

Things that fit in my throttle body ;D

20048334074_2c662fb323_b.jpg07042009265 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

my BOV.

20484143279_0037c19fbe_b.jpg07042009263 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

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because i removed parts of the engine bay wiring, eg, the shunt and fusible links, and had to move the coil wiring and temp sender wiring to the passenger side of the firewall, i have gone to the effort of making it all stock like.

 

 

How did you tackle removing the fusible links?

 

I moved my battery also and put a jumper post in the engine bay. I connected the red/white power circuits from the fusible links directly to the jumper post as the cable to the battery has a circuit breaker on it.

 

I am still in two minds whether some individual fusible links should be applied to these circuits though...

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