Wanted Spindle Pin Puller
Posted 05 August 2008 - 08:04 PM
If any one knows a safe way to remove pins without a puller can you let me know please.
Many thanks Paul MR240Z
Posted 08 August 2008 - 03:59 PM
Posted 08 August 2008 - 06:28 PM
I had a devil of a job with my car; I bought it car at 10 yrs old & 2 yrs later noticed that there appeared to be limited movement in the rear - it looked like it was bound up - so pulled it all apart to rebuild it. Not having spare money, fancy tools or knowing anyone in the trade I had to resort to basic home mechanics 101. I carefully & surgically cut away each spindle at each end to free each suspension arm, then used heat to gradually burn the rubber & break the steel corrosion bond & a fine cold chisel to chisel it all away enough to finally break free the bonded-together steel & molten rubber messes enough so they could be driven out. Then had to carefully file & cut away / drive out the remaining outer steel bush sleeves, remedy the damaged paintwork, press in new bushes (local garage helped me here) & installed new spindles & spindle lock pins with lots of anti-seizure copper-based grease. 22 yrs on & all is still well as far as I know. Took ages & a lot of patience & persistance but it worked for me. Good luck.
Posted 08 August 2008 - 08:24 PM
Hay thanks again for your help
Posted 09 August 2008 - 12:14 AM
Gilltech is absolutely right, you need to remove the centre pin that holds them in place. I managed to get mine out by putting a nut on one end so that it was flush with the thread on the spindle pin and with a soft carboard (piece of box) to cushion it, I hammered it out.
I damanged 1 spindle pin with the hammer though and had to go to a wrecker to get another. When I got there, Zworx it was in Melbourne - Warren told me he had never changed over those bushes on a Zcar in all the years he was there.
Good luck with it and if you can get the tool, I'd recommend it - will save you destorying them getting them out, if you do damage them though you can get another set on ebay cheaply.
Posted 09 August 2008 - 11:12 AM
I am sure we have some members on here that could use their machining skills to make a spindle pin puller & that the Club or member could pay for the materials then donate the pin puller to the Club.
The pin could then be hired out to any member needing it for a small cost plus postage & the Club could raise some revenue.
There is a write up of materials & how to make the puller on Zhome.com .
Go to Index of Tech Articles, then Tech Posts & Articles, then Special Tools for First Generation Z,s then how to make a spindle pin removal tool. Just a thought...
Posted 10 August 2008 - 01:08 PM
I'll let you know how i go.Thanks for all the input guys .
Posted 10 August 2008 - 04:32 PM
Took me a trip to bunnings and 4-5hrs to get both pins out, still have the puller I made up sitting in the shed.
I must say tho there is a huge amount of stress put on the puller and found that after pulling my two pin out it's almost a throwaway job, it quickly destroys the nuts and thread
Posted 12 August 2008 - 03:26 PM
Subsequently I've heard of another Zed owner having hassles removing spindles but he had access to a machine shop & a big press & drove the spindles out after making purpose-made drifts sized precisely, after some trial & error, but the spindles were beyond saving after a huge amount of force was applied to their ends.
I think the puller idea has merit, but as has been pointed out may be a tool to be used a few times then thrown away as the threads will really suffer. What type of thread would be strongest for this - Whitworth?
Posted 13 August 2008 - 07:39 AM
and make the puller with heavier tube to ensure youre right for many pulls to come.
only diff by a metric etween whiworth and UNF is 1 degree on the thread angle.
as above with the lube, id highly recommend the never seize option.
Posted 05 February 2009 - 10:44 PM
Posted 05 February 2009 - 11:10 PM
Still destroyed the thread, I dare say If I didn't heat it at all it would have striped the threads completely.
Mind you, the extra cheap Bunnings thread and nut's I used might have been the direct problem, it worked twice and that's all I needed.
Posted 18 February 2009 - 03:10 PM
aseeing as I had the saeme problem recently.
Mine was solved with a dead blow mallet with a fibre head and my bicep.
I was thinking if you made up a nut with a loop on thre end of it you could get away with using a slide hammer.
As far as putting it back in I STRONGLY suggest putting it back together on the bench as a full piece (strut tower and control arm) due to how hard it is to realign the holes when it is in the car, (truxst me i know I found this out last night first hand
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