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RB25DE into 240Z Conversion.


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#41 NZeder

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Posted 20 May 2008 - 06:47 PM

I managed today to cut up the original plenum/inlet manifold of the RB25 with a sabre saw, was also surprised how quickly it got through it with minimal cursing! Its amazing how close the spacing is to my Redline triple DCOE manifold..Going to pickup the DCOE plates from EFI Hardware tomorrow to test fit and hopefully weld on then assemble the throttle bodies and linkages (which should be heaps of fun!!)

Well done

Nzeder, I thought you were going to use the same manifold but looks like we are going different directions to finish in the same place!

nope the RB26 has different intake mounting setup so I have to use this little manifold first which does make it easier to make a bolt on adaptor. But your weld on setup will do the same thing :)

Yesterday I farewelled a nice motor; Monaroz picked up the L28 to fit in another Z engine bay...anyways, time to evolve the Zed!

I still have 3 x L28 and my original L26 + my RB30E and other RB26 head so I have lots of engines I just can't get rid of the old L6's in case I want to race the car in a different class that does not like the idea of the RB as a S20 replica or as close as I can get these days I don't have the 30+K for a real S20 engine.

#42 modular9

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Posted 20 May 2008 - 06:52 PM

Hot work zedman240.

you guys having some sort of race ?  ;D

#43 NZeder

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Posted 20 May 2008 - 07:03 PM

Hot work zedman240.

you guys having some sort of race ?  ;D

if you knew my project you would not say that - it has been off the road for 10 years so far but there is light at the end of the tunnel now that I have the $$ to complete the project after selling my other zed.

#44 modular9

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Posted 21 May 2008 - 09:00 AM

Well I'll be the enthusiastic supporter on the side lines with all the official tshirt + cap + scarf on !

#45 Zedman240®

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Posted 22 May 2008 - 10:08 PM

Good news everyone, (just watched Futurama) I'm a happy little camper this afternoon, well anyone would be when you find out your RB20 sump and pickup arrived from Texas! A big thanks goes to Butch at Courtesy Nissan in Texas for getting it to me in about a week! The project is snowballing now!!!!

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#46 NZeder

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Posted 22 May 2008 - 10:19 PM

Nice - I installed my sump the other week when I did the test install. I must say the rear sump looks a little small when on the block and sitting in place - if you look at the pic above you can make the sump larger from the first hump/raise to the rear there is that much room. See my earlier pics to see this. I am thinking that when the engine is removed so the engine bay can get painted I will have my nice new sump modified to extend the bowl and add a wing and trap door setup thing. Or I might just modify the standard front sump and sell this one on. Not sure yet.

:EDIT: oops did not post the pic I thought I had so here it is.

#47 zedevan

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Posted 22 May 2008 - 11:21 PM

how much did the sump cost you zedman?

#48 Zedman240®

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Posted 23 May 2008 - 08:08 AM

Hey Nzeder, I was going to ask you about modifications to the sump but you just answered it! It does look small but I was going to try it anyways and just as a precaution, overfill the oil by about 1/2 litre or so when I do a circuit event. My old L28 never had a modified sump and I also overfilled slightly and never had an issue.

Zedevan, all up cost including shipping was $US400 (sump/oil strainer)

You will also spot the GQ Patrol sump I put on ebay!

#49 NZeder

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Posted 23 May 2008 - 08:36 AM

That sounds about right for the sump. Locally Nissan NZ wanted around $600 for sump and pickup. I got mine from the US too. But I got mine via a friend in the US as the guy I got mine from (http://www.nissanpart.cc) would not sell to an international purchaser but his price was the best $149 USD. So I collected when I was in the US on business from my friend so I was lucky it cost me under $200 USD for the sump, pickup and o-ring as shipping was via my suit case.

#50 Zedman240®

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Posted 26 May 2008 - 09:56 PM

More progress to report on... Tonight oil strainer and sump went on, dipstick moved to the rear and manifold was machined (after my hacking away with a saw by hand!) and dropped off to be welded together. I was concerned a little when they welder told me "hope you are not expecting it this week!" How long do you expect to be? I'm sure I'll let the forum know...I think while the engine is on the stand, it would be wise to do a cam belt/idler pulleys. Knowing my luck, you install the engine and then you are greeted by a whining sound from the front of the engine you just cant work out where it's from.....

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#51 NZeder

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Posted 27 May 2008 - 05:47 AM

Cool - it is excellent that Nissan put the extra hole for the dip stick at the rear too - just remove the metal plug and swap these over - simple (well not so simple with the alternator, intake still on the engine but I got there in the end too.

Like you I am now playing the waiting game on the intake. I dropped my headers off to get some mods done - more on this when I get the back.

Keep up the good work.

Cheers
Mike

#52 Zedman240®

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Posted 05 June 2008 - 10:15 PM

Yet again another little update. Got the manifold back from another engineering place that can weld aluminum, that first one I took it to was going to take their time so they lost the job. This other place, dropped it off on Thursday, picked it up Friday lunch time. Small issue though; what happens to metal when it's heated unevenly? Yep, it warps! Manifold now has slight banana shape (2mm gap each side) Discovered this when I machined the Weber plates flat...I'm hoping when it's bolted to the head, it will flatten out. Tested it and it does. Tonight I drilled and tapped threads in the manifold and performed a quick mock up on what it should look like when its mounted for the last time. Still thinking if I should stick with the cast exhaust manifold for the moment or scrape up funds for some custom headers. It's all about saving costs! Still need new ECU loom, exhaust system (2 1/4"), throttle linkage....should I keep going on??

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#53 NZeder

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Posted 06 June 2008 - 06:29 AM

It looks so pretty :) I will have to chase up my guy to see if they have completed my adaptors. I am picking up my headers today after a little mod to clear the chassis rail.

#54 620Z

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Posted 06 June 2008 - 08:42 AM

Dinitri I would get your manifold face machined flat. Pretty simple if you know a machinest. Wouldn't cost much but the last thing you need is a leak after putting it all together. You will be better off in the long run. Rob Creighton or Chris Wood could easily do this for you I reckon.

#55 modular9

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Posted 06 June 2008 - 09:41 AM

Nzeder says pretty... that is like saying Angelina Jolie is only ok. This build up is hot. Seriously hot.

We also dont mind if you post about the tuning section as well such as afm stuff, Ignition mods you had to do etc. Basically everything. All good information for people who are doing this conversion and also us less ambitious modders.

Mike


#56 nat0_240_chevZ

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Posted 06 June 2008 - 12:47 PM

Yet again another little update. Got the manifold back from another engineering place that can weld aluminum, that first one I took it to was going to take their time so they lost the job. This other place, dropped it off on Thursday, picked it up Friday lunch time. Small issue though; what happens to metal when it's heated unevenly? Yep, it warps! Manifold now has slight banana shape (2mm gap each side) Discovered this when I machined the Weber plates flat...I'm hoping when it's bolted to the head, it will flatten out. Tested it and it does.



not really so dimitri, its the cooling of the weld that shrink, and in your case all weld along a plane shrinking will cause the bannana, so yes a zzzz8 has mentioned get them faced by even a head shop, 30-45$ should be, then you should be right, sometimes doesnt matter how much weld distortion you try to minimise it will always be there, this is golden especially when dealing with welding fabrication everyday @ work..... just make sure you get it faced or it will crak in due time, not IF but when is the case!!!

just thought we had better make it clear, for your own sakes anyways!!!
cheers nat0

#57 Zedman240®

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Posted 15 June 2008 - 09:38 PM

Another hurdle jumped tonight.. Engine is pretty much installed! Just have to make/modify my gearbox mount. If you can pick it, the motor is slightly off its axis in the bay. Thanks to my coathanger and piece of timber rear gearbox mount. Spoke to a gentleman at Berryman Engines who thinks the intake manifold is fine. He recommended me to place it in a oven at 200C then bolt it on the head. Even as it is now he told me it shouldn't crack at all. Its flexible to a point. If I do shave it, towards the center of the manifold there is a water port that might not seal at all if 4mm of material is removed. I'd rather leave it as it is. We shall see in time! All I'm waiting for now is for my ebay auctions to end so I can buy my wiring loom for the Wolf puter and start some wiring! Also while the engine was out, I fitted a re-drilled crossmember to help solve that bump steer issue. By the end of the week, I should have some more to report on...

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#58 zr240

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Posted 15 June 2008 - 09:46 PM

looks great!

Your catching up to me :)

Ash

#59 NZeder

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Posted 16 June 2008 - 06:13 AM

wow that engine sits low. We have the same mounts by the look (Castle Main Rod Shop) however I did mod mine to take the different isolator (I am using an Energy Suspension isolator with a safety interlock/captive design so my setup mounts the engine about 5 mm higher) but I have a RB25 Block with a RB26 I see if I have a pic that shows this difference.

Anyway looking good :)


#60 620Z

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Posted 16 June 2008 - 08:36 AM

Looks great Damitri. Do you have a rough completion time? I presume this means you won't be making Sandown this weekend.




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