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Suspension Painting Suggestions

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Hey guys, 

 

Very soon I'll be up to the reassembly stage and I'm keen to know what's the best way to prepare all the suspension, mustache bar, lateral arms, diff, etc.

 

I have a paint gun for the main coats, but I don't really want to have to grind it all back in one go, so is rattle can automotive primer up to the job?

I hear some great things about POR15, but don't know anything about it. Does it go over your regular coat of paint? 

Oh and is black all over regarded as the right way to go, or for components like the diff, is silver the accepted convention?

 

Thanks guys!

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About 4 or 5 years ago I used VHT roll bar and chassis rattle cans in satin black.

I baked most parts in an oven, they came up great and have stood the test of time. Well 4 or 5 years anyway ????

I’m quite happy with the results and I found the rattle cans to be convenient too.

 

http://www.vhtpaint.com/high-heat/vht-roll-bar-chassis-paint

 

There’s some pics in my build thread somewhere.

http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/7390-micks-240/#msg94155

 

 

Cheers

Mick

Edited by Cozza

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Sand blast, thin coat of epoxy primer then 2 pack color within 24 hrs so no need to sand. Bake in a big closed box with a heater but watch it doesn't catch fire. I have also sand blasted then sprayed 2 pack color directly on after blasting with no primer and it also worked perfectly. Both looked new 10 years later daily driving. The trick is to not go too thick so stones don't create big chips and the sand blasting creates an awesome surface for the paint to grip to.

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Ok Cool, lots of different options and opinions. Unfortunately I don't have access to a sand blaster or an oven (that I'd be allowed to use for car parts!)

but by the sounds of things even rattle cans do the trick!

 

Thanks for that link Lando! I did a decent search but somehow didn't come across that information!

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I cleaned up mine with the wire wheel on the bench grinder then used epoxy enamel from bunnings as aircobra said.brushed on and it comes up brilliant.

Takes a while with the wheel and sand by hand where it doesnt reach.low cost and keeps things simple.one small tin goes a long way.

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I used killrust on mine and worked a treat. I wire wheeled anything rusty and gave anything else a scuff with some sand paper. Makesure everything is wiped down with wax and grease remover then prime it and topcoat.

post-103875-0-47927500-1510637137_thumb.jpg

post-103875-0-14110900-1510637232_thumb.jpg

Edited by blu260z

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Ok Cool, lots of different options and opinions. Unfortunately I don't have access to a sand blaster or an oven (that I'd be allowed to use for car parts!)

but by the sounds of things even rattle cans do the trick!

 

Thanks for that link Lando! I did a decent search but somehow didn't come across that information!

Me neither so I use a big cardboard box and an old electric bar heater. You can shove bars through the sides to hang stuff off and stick a thermometer through to keep track of the temp. Works great.

 

I use a $20 sand blaster set up against a plastic tarp hung from the clothes line (or at my old house - against the garage door - outside). Then sweep up the sand, sieve it and use it again but you got to wear a good respirator, overalls, hat and eye protection. I add a small tube from the air line and pump it into my respirator to give positive pressure. The job sucks and you need a good compressor but it is handy to have at home when restoring a Z. Honestly if you go to the trouble to strip the parts make sure you don't use cheap $5 cans of enamel because it just wears off and dissolves when oil or fuel gets on it. As Brabham mentioned above, you can get it all done at a sandblaster - most have the facilities to epoxy straight after they blast to stop rusting. I can't see it costing more than 2 to 3 hundred bucks.

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I used the Kill Rust, sand paper, paint stripper and wire wheel method. 

 

post-100549-0-88100900-1510574232.jpg

post-100549-0-88100900-1510574232_thumb.jpg

Edited by d3c0y

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