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Cylinder Head Not Coming Off!


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#1 theremm

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Posted 23 April 2017 - 08:04 AM

Trying to remove the cylinder head from a spare motor I picked up and I can't seem to get the thing off. The motor hasn't run for about 7 years but I didn't think it would be this hard!

 

I have loosened off and removed the 14 head studs with no problem as well as the two small bolts at the front of the head which bolt to the timing cover. I have also removed all ancillaries attaching to the head including timing chain and cam sprocket.

 

I'm trying not to apply too much force to the head but it is not budging at all. I've even tried tapping it VERY lightly with a rubber mallet but this hasn't made any difference. 

 

Do I need to remove any of the bolts from the cam towers or anything else? Is there something I am missing? Help!!



#2 dat2kman

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Posted 23 April 2017 - 08:33 AM

Bit of hardwood, and a regular hammer, bit more effort
Head to block will have round locator dowels, so dont go for a big sideways movement, more a dislodge from the top edge of head
If the 14 headbolts came out nicely rust wont be a issue!

#3 theremm

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Posted 23 April 2017 - 09:25 AM

Ok, I will give that a go today and hope that does the trick  8)



#4 gav240z

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Posted 23 April 2017 - 11:24 AM

When I pulled the head off the block in #150 it hadn't run in 20 years and everything was just sort of stuck together. You could try wedging a wooden 2x4 or similar against a cam tower and hit in an upward direction (with a rubber mallet) to help lift it off the head and loosen it up.

 

Just move up and down the length of the head trying different cam towers as you go. Wear some gloves also (since cam towers and cylinder head can be sharp) and try rocking the head back and forth with your hands.

 

Also double-check you've got all fasteners :).


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#5 theremm

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Posted 23 April 2017 - 11:49 AM

Thanks Gav,

 

Also double-check you've got all fasteners :).

 

So have I got everything?

 

I grabbed this pic off the net however this is exactly as my head looks currently and my markup shows what I have removed. Not quite sure what the 4 hex bolts in the centre of the head are?

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  • head markup.jpg


#6 600Z

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Posted 23 April 2017 - 12:00 PM

The four down the centre you have marked are just to block of galleries during the manufacturing.

#7 Merlin240z

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Posted 23 April 2017 - 12:27 PM

May be you could try turning the crank so some of the pistons are @ bdc and both valves are closed. Take out the spark plug, fill the cylinder with a liquid eg water and then installing the spark plug, turn the crank again and use the hydraulic force to push the head up. If water does not work you could try filling the cylinder with rope.

#8 TOO60Z

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Posted 23 April 2017 - 12:55 PM

May be you could try turning the crank so some of the pistons are @ bdc and both valves are closed. Take out the spark plug, fill the cylinder with a liquid eg water and then installing the spark plug, turn the crank again and use the hydraulic force to push the head up. If water does not work you could try filling the cylinder with rope.

Do not listen to any of this kiwi voodoo magic. You will do more damage than good turning the crank with the timing chain removed and if you wedged the timing chain before removing cam sprocket you can't turn over engine. If you didn't wedge the chain you'll be pulling the sump and timing cover as well. Forget the gloves they are for pillow biters.

#9 road rider

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Posted 23 April 2017 - 01:35 PM

Have you got an engine crane/lifter handy? 

 

If yes, attach a couple of lifting hooks to the head and lift  engine of the ground ever so slightly(a couple of mm will do it) This in itself might separate the head from block.

If not use a decent size block of wood and hammer, tap block till it separates from head(while it's off the ground)


Edited by road rider, 23 April 2017 - 01:36 PM.


#10 road rider

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Posted 23 April 2017 - 01:37 PM

Bit of hardwood, and a regular hammer, bit more effort
Head to block will have round locator dowels, so dont go for a big sideways movement, more a dislodge from the top edge of head
If the 14 headbolts came out nicely rust wont be a issue!

 

Otherwise this is your next best option! 



#11 dat2kman

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Posted 23 April 2017 - 03:18 PM

Alexander,
DO NOT hit the cam towers, they are loops of alloy, you do not want any deformation.
Just place timber along top side edge of head and hit with a lump hammer, to "shock" it loose.
Rubber mallet probably to absorbent.
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#12 theremm

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Posted 23 April 2017 - 06:36 PM

Thanks everyone for all the help! A little more persistence with the rubber mallet at various points did the trick :)

 

A special surprise underneath... E88 EFI head, woooot :D Wiped down chamber number 3 to show the shape nicely!

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#13 mossy

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Posted 23 April 2017 - 07:08 PM

Wanna sell, wanna sell  ;D



#14 gav240z

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Posted 23 April 2017 - 07:34 PM

Lucky you, I would like 1 of these also for my 72 240z (to retain the original E88 code) but very hard to find now.



#15 theremm

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Posted 23 April 2017 - 08:21 PM

Wanna sell, wanna sell  ;D

 

hehehehe, nah :D 

 

Lucky you, I would like 1 of these also for my 72 240z (to retain the original E88 code) but very hard to find now.

 

I called almost 50 wrecking yards within a 400km radius of Brisbane - finally found one just before I was ready to call it quits. Although I had to take the whole engine unfortunately..

 

My plan is to use with the L24 as well. Not sure however if I will use the head with my matching numbers block or store this for safe keeping and find another L24 block for the bottom end. I like to drive the car very frequently and I was concerned that my original block might get tired or damaged down the track (thinking long term).






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