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260z 2+2

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#1 AK

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Posted 12 September 2016 - 11:08 PM

Hi Fellow Zeders
 
Here is my Build story.
 
I have been very slack and not done this sooner now even more under the pump as I moving to  QLD in December so I only got a couple of months to get back together - MY GOD I am doing 2-3 hours every night after work and full days on my weekends - yes the body is cracking up and the cash is evaporating quicker than a Snow Man in the Simpson Desert.
 
Anyway here is the story - I had always wanted a z car since I was about 16years old, now in mid 40s  .. didn’t take me to long??…
Had a slogan actually when I was youngster ( god I am sounding old)
Z power - Z domination – Z supremacy –  all TRUE of course!
 
Now I am 45, (still a kid maybe) anyway about a year ago I got the devilish little 260z 2 + 2, as luck would have it after 24years of lusting after those long/low curvaceous lines that make 99.5% of all other sports cars look well what can I say insufficient,  my little Blue GEM turned up on the internet with  an address no less than 5 km form my house. The unfortunate current owner was having to make a return to life back in NZ. For a new job offer. (very nice guy actually)
So seeing that she was pretty straight and had limited rust that I could see and no-bog that would show up with the basic magnetic test I put in offer that wayward KIWI could not resist, being a short trip home I fired her up drove her home much to the previous owner’s dismay. ( yarrrr really going to drive it???) YEP!
She was a bit thrown together but running and she looked like she had a couple of false starts in the rebuild and renew stakes, BUT she made the short trip home. I gave her a good clean for a couple of days fish oiled the whole car and then started to take rust out from around the battery tray and surrounding areas.
She had just had the following done
·         Some re-wiring
·         New extractors
·         Urethane suspension bumper kit
·         New Battery
·         New Coil
·         New dash cover
·         New mechanical fuel pump
 
Closer inspection when I started the tare down – some of it done a little half assed.
 
Even know I had in my mind to postpone the rebuild, I still polished and resprayed the kidney bean five slotter classic mags to a mirror shine. On the outward facing surface and painted the inner surface  and the inside walls of the kidney bean slots metallic gloss black, the rears are about 1cm wider – tough period style mags that are Aussie made no-less.
The idea was to keep her in a stable condition and limit any further rusting until I was really ready to embark on a full rebuild – part of the schedule was to finish a substantial Man Cave so I would have plenty room for a full resto.
Once the 150 square meter man cave with 4.5 meter ceiling was finished I started to pull her down and remove the god-dam sunroof structure get her ready to put on the rotisserie and get all the parts wet blast/ dustless blasted
Getting the sound deadening out was with a heat gun and hand scrapers was nasty hand blistering experience that took many many many hours. Still got the calluses 6months later. Much later I discovered (via the awesome Vic Z Car Forum) that dry ice to make the sound deadener snap freeze and make it brittle then use a vibrating multi scrapper tool would been so much easier – (valuable lesson No.1)
 
The sunroof was a slide back job that dropped down in to roof cavity so it looked good actually but it limited the internal head room a bit and I was sure it would just be a home to hold moisture and cause rust moving forward so I cut it out and YES it would have been a massive source of rust in the future no doubt! As I discovered in the removal process. All the seals where toast and the trim on it was also history and rust was in and around most of the structure of it.
 
I will have to weld some reinforcing bars in and around the hole now as it feels a bit flimsy – dam should of held out for a non- sunroof car, but it will be solid hard top again!
What’s next pull off every panel I can strip out what’s left including all the electrical and the engine, suspension, gearbox, ect – try not lose anything and remember where everything goes – I must be friggen certifiably crazy .!!!!
 
Need to learn how to panel beat, and weld as well – no small task – over ambitious completely!, but want to do it all myself – my baby, my car no one is going to touch her now but me.  To much to learn even with You-Tube assistance and the help of the VIC Z CAR site  but we will see how it goes no rush. But its hard to hold back just want to get all finished and start to drive her again.
I have contemplated every engine combo under the sun – keep on going back  original L- Series options just like the genuine raw feel and look of the original atmo engine has – seeing some u-tube of stroked versions out on the track demolishing everything in its class gut wrenching spine-tingling stuff – wish it was done now and I was out frying some tyres now threading some turns in a raw tuned 70s motorcar, sure the modern cars can be faster (that’s what the facts say) and more comfortable but character and rawness an the intensity of the driving experience is watered down and unless you are going super sonic speeds there is nowhere near the same level of satisfaction – We all know this!. Classic cars are all appreciating at staggering rate with good reason.
 
Interior was worse the outer body showing her age massively beyond saving – the spare wheel well she is also a goner! Rear lift back struts still work -what the Hell? The suspension shocks are original on the outside at least (we will see what lurks within) they are still working but would not look out of place as some relic poking out of the sand in the 1st five minutes of a Planet of the Apes Movie
 
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A picture tells a thaousnd dollars
 
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the doors where pretty good 
 
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Damm Rust
 
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Sun Roof looked good but a massive cultivator of RUST
 
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Wish I had Dome tops
 
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Classic 5 Slot Kidney Beans MADE IN AUST.
 
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more rust
 
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I dreaded doing this but it had to be done  - Pulling out the heater was one the harder parts there was a lot of rust in the little radiator and pipes but still working, but I had it re-cored anyway, as the idea of complicated fix later on down the track after getting everything back to new would be heart breaking.
 
I removed the engine gearbox as one unit using a Super Cheap  Engine crane , word of advice pay for adjustable angle stabilizer as You would not be able to control how the engine hangs on the crane and I would not have got it out.without it and it and it L-Brackets and the smaller chains to connect the engine to the crane in 4 locations
I attached the hoist to brackets with the head bolts to 4 x  head bolts after removing the rocket cover
Next I bought a Rotisserie off EBay for about $1200.00 delivered  it does make working on the car so much easier an if you do plan sand/wet blasting and getting access to every surface of the car it’s the only way.
Got her on to the rotisserie this actually did go to plan (for once) the front was pretty straight forward the 2 horizontal struts that go off the main pivoting horizontal bar drilled 2 side holes into these matching the front bumper mounts spacing that threaded into the inside of chassis rails.
For the rear mounts on the rotisserie I got 2 u-style brackets that you would secure pine posts to a cement slab super beefy heavy duty ones . Drilled holes in the base to match the rear bumper mount holes and the uprights that would go either side of the pine post I bolted to the sliding horizontal struts of the rotisserie, I had to do a little spacing with some washers – but overall it went to plan and was pretty straight forward but it did take me 2 evening’s after work to complete it.
Once on the rotisserie I removed the  drive line and suspension
The famed rear wishbone set up with removable pivot axel was reliably a nightmare to remove  I got one moving by stacking a couple of washers at a time  on one side and  torqueing up the end nut to slowly pull the axel through, it worked but it was very taxing one end thread and eventually it pretty much stretched the thread into oblivion but was enough to get 80% of it out and gave a lot more opportunity to get a range of penetrating oils into the axel pivot, then I could at least punch out the remainder of it with sock-set extender bar
The second rear swing arm I soaked the lower pivoting ling in a big bucket of apple vinegar for 3 weeks with the central cotter pin removed to allow for more penetration in to the pivot axel, the idea is all the rust and corrosion gets eaten away which should loosen the  fit of the axel. Sadly this did not help and I had to cut the axel to get the suspension pivot apart and I will have to press out the remaining axel . NITEMARE!! 
 
The Fuel Tank Resto
 
The Fuel tank sas in terrible condition 10mm at least of rusty sludge on the bottom and rust everywhere you looked –I thought it was a throw away actually but I researched possible reco methods online and come with the following  
With tank fully removed I tried the scoria pebbles and cement mixer combination to internally sand-away the rust and it worked really well.
 
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Next step was to put in the 16 litres of apple cider vinegar which I will leave in for about 2weeks and flip it regularly,  this should take out all the rust – concentrating on the seams by letting the tank sit on the seam sides for days.
 
I almost considered not doing vinegar treatment as the tank looked so good after the pebble process but I am glad I did because a huge amount of rusty crap still came out of it after this process  ;lots more rinsing
Note you have to  tape up all the holes in the tank I did this by using the good ole duc-tape and some zip ties to ensure the  taped caps stayed in place, I used a typical spray can cap to seal the fuel filler neck with some duc-tape and zipties
 
Pictures of the of blocking the holes in the tank below
 
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With Fuel sender hole I found a big washer and then I made two gaskets out of bicycle tube then screwed the lock ring down – perfect seal
 
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After washing out the tank several times and blowing out the pipes eventually the rusty crap stopped coming out Then I used Por 15 Metal clean to clean out the tank once more and neutralize the effects of the Vinegar Drying out the tank I did straight away by putting a heat gun in the tank filler hole in the lower setting and letting it run – I also put electric strip radiator heater on faced it on the tank – the tank was heated inside and outside it got pretty hot to touch and effectively dried out in about 30 min.
 
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Tank inside after the cement mixer treatment and vinegar and Metal Clean 
 
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I put paint striper on the outside of the tank and  removed the paint with a hand held wire brush, then used a wire wheel on 240volt drill to clean her up fully and get rid of any of the stubborn rust spots, tank is looking really new
 
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Then then I  Used the 1st step of the KBS Gold Standard Fuel Tank Sealer  Kit (Got this from  Autobarn) 
1st Step KBS kit is pour in 50-50 mix of Aquaklean tank cleaner solution this is mixed with 50% hot water  Ieft this in 24hours and repeatedly turned the tank in this period and gave it a really good shake. Note you have to  tape up all the holes in the tank I did this by using the good ole duc-tape and some zip ties to ensure the  taped caps stayed in place, this solution should help get rid of the vinegar and neutralize  the effects of the vinegar
 
The next step is to proceed with step-2 of the KBS kit putting in the  rust buster solution which I put in as per the recommendations an I made sure that the centre seam got extra time immersed in solution
The 3rd step of the KBS kit is the silver tank lining solution which I again followed the instructions looks like really good stuff the tank is thickly lined in silver paint now and looks brand new. This stuff is super strong pretty impressive.
 
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Tank Finished and Painted on the Inside
 
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List of steps
 
1.       Remove tank from car
2.       Hire Large concrete mixer
3.       Fill tank with 10mm scoria pebbles about 15-20% full
4.       Strap tank to the front of the mixer ratcheting straps
5.       Run for 1.5 hours on one side
6.       Run for 1.5 hours on the other side
7.       Add water to the tank and run mixer on highest speed until most of the water has come out
8.       Get all the stones out and flush tank with water
9.       Add the vinegar for 2 weeks and flip regularly
10.   Take out vinegar and flush with water and detergent
11.   Use POR-15 Metal Clean solution and dry the tank 100%
12.   Sand blast or paint stripper on the outside of the tank
13.   Add the 1st step of KBS Tank reliner kit witch is a cleaner, Give a good swish around
14.   Dry out the tank fully used a Heat gun in the inside through the filler neck and also used a radiator style electric heater to heat up the quiet hot to get all the water evaporated
15.   Put in the rust buster solution step 2 of the tank reliner kit
16.   Dry out the tank fully used a Heat gun in the inside through the filler neck and also used a radiator electric heater to heat up the quiet hot to get all the water evaporated
17.   Pun in the special tank relining solution swish evenly around the tank, tip out excess and let it dry
18.   Remember to blow out the pipes before the reliner paint dry’s
19.   Paint the outside with POR 15 BLACK GLOSS after making sure the surface is properly prepped
Please note I also removed the fuel sensor system let that soak for 2 weeks in vinegar – cleaned that with POR Aquaklean and then used the rusbutster , then used the tank liner solution on all the outside surfaces except for float and the electronics. It was still some how working even know it was caked with rust
 
Good lesson for all is to keep fuel stabilizer in your cars if you are only using cars occasionally. The modern fuels goes off quickly - off fuel and half empty tanks accelerate the rusting process – also keeping the fuel tank fully topped up will help slow rusting because nothing is left exposed to rust.
$200-$300 on parts to fix the original tank may also be better than the original - a reco’ed tank from USA was about $600  without shipping so it was cheaper and no doubt done better than most reco’s  but it was a lot of work. But thought of sending rusty crappy fuel down to a beautiful straight six engine is not something I wanted.
 
 
The Reco Continues
 
After finishing the petrol tank I then I proceeded to remove every part removed and I mean every part make sure you do this as behind bolts and brackets can be rust especially the door hinges so remove absolutely everything!
 I have 2300psi Karchner Jet Washer with a Sand blaster attachment (for wet blasting) I started to use this with the sand blaster attachment and it did work but it used a lot of sand and to do a small area and a lot of water it could be possible to do a whole car but the time and money for all the sand and the mess of wet sand in panels and building up in areas that you don’t want it to would not be worth it especially on the car body,  on individual panels but it could be worth the pain and trouble.
 
 
So I got a dustless bluster guy to come out and they use a much higher pressure water system the water keeps the dust down also keeps the panel cool and helps prevent panel warpage compare to standard sand blasting. It’s a new method and some people will say this method is not as good because of the use of water, but it is quickly becoming the preferred method of some professional spray painters  The water used in the dustless blasting also gets treated with a rust inhibitor (called “stay tight”) to stop or greatly reduce rusting of the naked panels.
I guess many of you are wanting to know how did work – It’s awesome to watch very effective at removing everything in its path except rubber, seam sealer, sound deadner and silicon, so urethane rubbers are not damaged, rubber protective bellows if in good condition also not damaged , the factory metal cable ties that spot welded to the panels to guide the wire harness ect, have the rubber coating also not damaged – pretty cool stuff. There is not a lot of excess water and not a lot of sand used either really.
Its still pretty physical for the guy doing the blasting but you don’t even really need a dust mask – much better than sand blasting.
This is what was blasted

  • Suspension components – all parts
  • Diff
  • Tail shaft
  • Grill
  • Drum covers
  • Removed panels

This actually took about 8 hours and the body we left to another day which was another 14 hours.
The body is extra labour intensive as the tar sound deadener and rust proofing on the under body actually needs to physically removed before the blasting as the granules of sand whether standard dry sand blasting or wet blasting will bounce off the tar rather than take if off – so out comes the vibrating scraper tool again – awesome for this hard task but it will still take you  12-15hours to remove the tar from the under body –kill me now. Also note the seam-sealer will also not blast off so if you want new seam sealer remove that also before blasting. Did I remove the seam sealer yes I did 90% of the time there was no rust under the seam sealer so not really worth it in my case but I guess it goes brittle at some point  so it might be the best to get out now.
 
I followed the dustless wet blasting with the POR-15 Marine Clean and then the POR -15  rust converter and which neutralizes rust and seals the panel with galvanized type of finish –both these process  (Marine Clean and  Metal Ready) use water so the whole process should work well the water based dustless blasting. The POR-15 systems will get very good penetration in to all the surfaces of the panels getting into the overlaps and creases  . I also invested in some of the Rust Bullet paint this kills of neutralizes rust as well – comes with a 10year guarantee in fact, and is the industry’s best rust treatment solution by all the supporting evidence I could find. I am going to use this stuff for all the area where you cant see or get into , chassis rails, seams, inside panels , structural pressings around bonnet and inside the frame of the rear lift back frame , rear lift back hinge cavity – basically anywhere rust could or could resurface. This stuff you can see visually removing rust with each application and it also seeps deep into the rust, fully neutralizing  - the POR-15 is similar but not a as aggressive what I mean by that great for areas that you get to remove most of the offending loose rust – but for areas where you can’t the Rust Bullet is more effective and is also backed with warranty!! On all the body work inside and out all the suspension parts, driveline I used the KBS rust sealer and the the engine bay rear boot space and the underbody the KBS body seal – I can only go application not on time being the true test - but for the money the KBS is great stuff works well and easy source and half the price .
 
The sunroof delete has been a considerable source of contemplation I read everything on the forum and studied anything else I could find on the net. At one point I decided I was going heat form some 8mm thick arylic/Perspex to the shape of the roof and make insert to plug the hole. End result would have been moon roof .I was thinking of going this way because I am 6ft 2 and having the feel of more space with a sunroof and a fixed moon roof does not reduce the height of the roof line, this appealed to me, the hole is also larger than normal being a slide back is larger with nice curved corners so it will look good with tinted roof flush fitted acrylic insert. But I did a crazy amount of research on this and I found out that Perspex would expand maybe 5mm to 8mm possibly with the size I had to fill - which means you have to sit shaped pane of Perspex on a reassessed shelf with 5mm bed of silicon with 10mm silicon track around the whole Perspex’s roof to absorb the expansion from the heating on a hot day. So the idea of all this movement on a fragile roof skin made me abandon the idea. Now I am going to weld in the original sunroof blank and put this to rest.
 
P-A-I-N-T  originally I was going to keep the original Light blue its classic yes! but I wanted something a bit more muscle car and vibrant. I started to look at all the wild green options in the end after much contemplation and looking at and imagining the z in this colour for some time – 12months of seeing it that way - I settled on the
MOPAR colour PFB SUBLIME GREEN METALLIC #5163154AA 
 
 
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The sunroof delete
Plan to weld in the original drop down and slide back sunroof blank.
To do this by welding in inner lip around the inside of the sunroof hole, this would make it much easier to get the sunroof blank to fit at the correct level to existing roof line and also put metal around the edge to absorb the heat from welding and this would reinforce the hole in the roof line .
So for these lip parts I was able to use the strengthening bracket which where folded into the edge of the existing sun roof blank this. These brackets are already shaped to the curve of the roof line and are quite strong.
I got these welded in top place no problem front and back was fne and the sides to took a lot more fiddeling around because the side need more spacing to match the roof line
 
 
 
In regards to Tyre/  Wheel Sizes - From what I can ascertain these are probably the biggest tyres that I can fit under standard rolled guards with MCA coil overs installed – I am giving you the tyre/wheel size just in case you think is worth changing the diff ratio?
 
I plan to run in these in the future:
·         16 x 7 (4mm offset) with 225/50 on the front – with Toyo R1R Tyres – Mags Made by Rota, RB model
·         16 x 8 (4mm offset) with 245/45 on the rear – with Toyo R1R Tyres  – Mags Made by Rota, RB model
 
Will run the stock Alloy Mag Wheels (supplied with the car) five slotter kidney Bean until I have the budget to get the bigger wheels mentioned above. Stock wheel measurement are as follows
 
·         14 x 6 (10mm offset) with 215/65  on the Front – with Bridgestone RE92 tyre - Mags 5 slot Kidney made in Aust. Samson Brand
·         14 x 6  on the Rear (10mm offset with 225/65 on the Rear – with Bridgestone RE92 tyre - Mags 5 slot Kidney made in Aust. Samson Brand
 
With the help of wheel calculator it says that there is minimal difference in the diameter is I go with this set up 67mm less circumference with the new wheel set up if the calculator is right.
 
Front EXISTING
front NEW
Diameter
635.1mm
631.4mm
Circumference
1995.2mm
1983.6mm
Poke
66.2mm
84.9mm
Inset
86.2mm
92.9mm
Speedo error
0%
0.59%
Reading at 30mph
30mph
30.18mph
Reading at 60mph
60mph
60.35mph
Ride height gain
0mm
-1.85mm
Arch gap loss
0mm
-1.85mm
Compared to your existing wheel, this new wheel will have an inner rim which is 6.7mm closer to the suspension strut. The outer rim will poke out 18.7mm more than before.
 
 
EXISTING
NEW
Diameter
648.1mm
626.9mm
Circumference
2036.1mm
1969.5mm
Poke
66.2mm
97.6mm
Inset
86.2mm
105.6mm
Speedo error
0%
3.38%
Reading at 30mph
30mph
31.01mph
Reading at 60mph
60mph
62.03mph
Ride height gain
0mm
-10.6mm
Arch gap loss
0mm
-10.6mm
   
Compared to your existing wheel, this new wheel will have an inner rim which is                                                            19.4mm closer to the suspension strut. The outer rim will poke out 31.4mm more than before.


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#2 HKSZ

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Posted 13 September 2016 - 12:32 AM

Love the cement mixer trick, had many a DNF in the last rally car because of rust in tank. Might even give it a go on my vintage motorcyle tanks.



#3 KatoKid

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Posted 13 September 2016 - 08:09 AM

Epic post!

 

Well done, I like your attention to detail!



#4 260DET

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Posted 13 September 2016 - 08:16 AM

Great read containing some interesting procedures and fixes, nice work. On the subject of removing bitumen sheet, dry ice is much quicker and does a better job than the Makita vibrating tool. It's amazing, some how or other the frozen sheet just comes off cleanly in large pieces.



#5 AK

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Posted 13 September 2016 - 09:02 AM

Hi Guys

I have lot more pictures and some more progress

I will find the time to put them on soon I hope.

Thanks for engorgement

Cheers AK



#6 PeterAllen

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Posted 13 September 2016 - 10:17 AM

Great write-up - keep it coming.


Edited by PeterAllen, 13 September 2016 - 02:08 PM.


#7 Cozza

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Posted 13 September 2016 - 02:19 PM

I think you may have misplaced a decimal point somewhere!


I think 5-8 would be pretty close. I think the recommended allowance for thermal expansion is about 0.5% for Perspex (given a 50' temp change). Assuming 1m width would give 5mm.
Another concern for Perspex is the long term moisture absorption, recommended allowance for expansion is about 0.3%.

Worked on a project just recently with Perspex ;)

Impressive write up AK. Look forward to following your progress.

Mick

#8 PeterAllen

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Posted 13 September 2016 - 02:35 PM

Never too old to learn. I was editing my post to avoid embarrassment at the same time Mick was highlighting my ignorance. Quite clearly one needs to factor in a temperature range greater than the 20 degrees I did.

 

 

PS. At my age I'm more preoccupied with shrinkage!


Edited by PeterAllen, 14 September 2016 - 03:50 AM.

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#9 CroS13

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Posted 13 September 2016 - 10:15 PM

what a monster first post, how many hours did it take you to write that all up lol!

Great start mate, How are you finding the KBS coatings? I started off with Por15 and wasn't happy after getting 1 tin of paint that had gone off, I then switched to the KBS coatings and i have mixed opinions about it. 

 

I find its extremely annoying and time consuming to do all the steps with the marine clean, rust blast and paint, making sure everything is 100000% clean, new paint brushes used every time, only to have grit and silt settle in the paint before it cures (probably dusty/dirty garage) and i have never got a flat smooth finish. also it has reacted and formed air bubbles in some sections, which is then easy to peel off. In saying that, im using it on bright clean metal, and i know it works best on old pitted rusted metal as it has something to "grab into" Ive since been trying eastwood frame rail coater and so far im happy with the results.

Rudi


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#10 AK

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Posted 14 September 2016 - 12:37 AM

what a monster first post, how many hours did it take you to write that all up lol!

Great start mate, How are you finding the KBS coatings? I started off with Por15 and wasn't happy after getting 1 tin of paint that had gone off, I then switched to the KBS coatings and i have mixed opinions about it. 

 

I find its extremely annoying and time consuming to do all the steps with the marine clean, rust blast and paint, making sure everything is 100000% clean, new paint brushes used every time, only to have grit and silt settle in the paint before it cures (probably dusty/dirty garage) and i have never got a flat smooth finish. also it has reacted and formed air bubbles in some sections, which is then easy to peel off. In saying that, im using it on bright clean metal, and i know it works best on old pitted rusted metal as it has something to "grab into" Ive since been trying eastwood frame rail coater and so far im happy with the results.

Rudi

Hi Rudy 

 

For the money KBS paints are great, I find if you put on to thick it bubbles otherwise goes on as well as the users skill level. I am  not saying I am particularly skilled.

 

I used some Rust Bullet in the hard to get places first which I think is the best product as seems to penetrate more before drying - but its hell expensive hard and difficult to source as well I found, so I used that in the nasty places first, then tried some POR 15 which was also very good but its pretty much a one time use open the can use and chuck it - it is never as good the second time around and still pretty expensive but not as hard to source.

 

I have a BEER fridge in the Man cave and I put these paints in the fridge and helps keep them stable and stops them going off so quick once open. I dont think any of these paints give a show room finish unless you spray them and the paint sprays fine if thined with the right thinners but its pretty toxic use a good mask.

 

I sealed the whole car with these paints inside out - expensive exercise but the stuff is really strong and should hopefully put a end to rusting - standard paints would not do much I think in the long term.

 

But only the inside and the bottom of the car with have the KBS style paints as the finished surface - the view-able surfaces will sanded the block sanded with filler and the epoxy primed then sprayed in Acrylic is the plan.



#11 mspecr

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Posted 15 September 2016 - 10:47 PM

Top Job with details to boot. ! def Sticky worthy haha.

Keep up the great work. 



#12 AK

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Posted 18 September 2016 - 01:59 AM

Hi Guys

 

Time to add some more photos not sure if I am doing this right but here we go.

 

The next batch of photos are of the Wet Blasting or Dustless Blasting process which over all worked really well,  but on the inside of the car standard sand blasting (dry) may be better? both ways I imagine are equally problematic as the blow back from going into a sealed space would be or is really bad.

 

The wet sand also tends to build up inside the tight spaces which means you have to stop scrape it out and start again - repeat and smile:)

 

In any case compared to normaly dry sand blasting less mess with dustless wet blasting and the water keeps the panel cool so less warping and it keeps the dust down and it can be done at your house very handy.

 

The process of washing out the car afterwords and getting the sand out once dry is quiet time consuming and requires patients and a strong shop-vac with a lot of different attachments to get into the tight spaces air strong compressor to blow it out as well was also useful here - scraping and brushing with a stiff bursh is also required to remove the sand - this was a painful process!!!

 

The wet blasting doesn't hurt rubber so that's very handy, you see in the pics,  but it also means the tar style sound deadners have to be removed before wet blasting and seam sealer also tends to make the sand bounce off as well so lots of vibrating tool action here which very hard work.

 

The water that is sprayed also has additive called hang tight I think which stops the panels rusting bust in any case as said earlier I used the POR 15 process on the whole car pretty much after this wet blasting so the marine clean, the Rust Blaster and then Rust Seal Paint so reasonably bullet proof process hopeful.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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#13 blu260z

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Posted 18 September 2016 - 06:58 AM

No messing around here!! Straight into it, nice work AK

#14 CBR Jeff

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Posted 18 September 2016 - 07:40 AM

AK that's an impressive trailer load of sandblasting kit. Very impressive work and posts.
It doesn't seem you need any encouragement as you are progressing very quickly, but keep at it.
Did you hire the sandblasting kit?
Jeff

#15 AK

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Posted 18 September 2016 - 10:06 AM

Hi Jeff

I hired a guy who had all the gear to do it - for him it was a part time job.

The cost of hiring was pretty expensive by the time you hire a big-ass compressor with the mumbo to push out the required pressure, a Kennards in the back of Dandenong was the only place that had one for hire.

I researched it a lot before pulling the trigger - I think the only thing that would be better is putting the whole car in bath of Molasses.

In regards to motivation - I have a tight time line December to get her all back together thats the motivation if the body can hold up.

I have a small wet blasting kit that fits on to my 2500psi Karchner which is OK for small item but not would be to slow and messy (use a lot of sand) compared to the pro set up.

Off to the shed 

Cheers AK


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#16 AK

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Posted 05 October 2016 - 12:49 AM

The sunroof delete
 

Sun Roof Delete is always a topic of much discussion of how best to approach??  

 

I mentioned my sunroof delete plan earlier in the build / reco  - I will go into some more detail now.

 

I can not say if this is the best way but is one way to do it - end result was pretty good and very strong - stronger than a standard roof easily.

 

It took some serious hours to do this may even 100 hours - crazy amount of dicking around the principles of what I done where sound I think the execution was good for a first timer - but some one with more experience would nailed it and done in a 3rd of the time. This sunroof delete is more for the drop-down and slide back solid metal variety - but the principles could be used for any sunroof.

 

1. use the blank from original drop down and slide back sunroof - (removed all of the existing slide back sunroof without damaging the slide back blank is important as you will need this piece in good condition.)

 

2. pull out the internal frame edging around the sunroof blank - this was held in with a folded into a lip around the outer edge of the sunroof, to put is simply use these parts to make shelf for the sunroof blank to sit on at the correct level while welding into place - I saw this with my newbie welding skills as one of the hardest things to do besides trying to control heat warping from welding. Also framing the edge of the hole would make it much stronger and give more metal to weld too for more strength and better thermal control.

 

3. The existing frame work in slide back sunroof blank was relatively easy to pull out and it had the matching arcs to match the roof line so far the plan was working - I you had to make these right angle shaped arcs it would be hard to do it correctly -  but you could also use flat pieces of steel with some light bending to match the roof line.

 

4. Drill holes through these frame work pieces and the edge of the the existing roof hole and bolt the metal frame pieces in place to create a shelf at the right height for the sunroof blank to sit in - once bolted in place start to spot weld this edging frame in place - note I used magnetic cooper plates and air compressor to blast the weld area after each spot weld to control heat saturation very lengthy and painful process

 

5. Pull out the bolts and nuts holding the frame in place and the weld in the bolt holes from the bolts using cooper plates and compressor for cooling again

 

6. Drop in the sunroof blank see if sits right matching the existing roof line, it pretty much did, I did need to space up the blank a little with some washers to get the right height, and use lead weights I use for scuba diving to hold it down in place firmly.

 

7. Start the many hundreds of spot welds crossing back and forward across the sunroof until you have solid weld all the way around - How did this work? Pretty good but a painful process with moving cooper plates and the use of the compressor to cool - even know I took my time I still should of taken a little more as I still got a little warping . So do not rush this and do not start welding again in that area until it is  cool enough to touch with hand minimum at least is my advise.

 

8. The cooper plates I used are a Eastwood product and they are available through the Aussie distributor one plate was about 15cm long and 8cm wide the other was about a 10 cent coin size with adjust angle with magnetic backing for a novice welder like my self they where money well spent as they  helped with heat absorption and reduced blow through hugely.

 

9. I still got some warping because of heat saturation build up from moving just a little to quick - so I had to hand beat and push out carefully and gradually without pulling the whole roof line out of shape - I used some expanding vertical bars here which where designed for making removable cargo barrier in a station wagons - I got these originally from Aldi ages ago and have used them for all sorts of things, I actually shaped a dive weight to shape of the roof and used this as pushing surface when pushing up from the inside of the car. This helped about 50% but it still need a lot hammer and dolly work to get it reasonable.

 

10. Fill the edging of the sunroof hole after grinding back the welds carefully I used a fiberglass reinforced filler here for greater strength.

 

11. Then a covered the whole roof in filler and blocked back this was repeated about 5 times - such a big curved flat surface it really was hard taxing job to get it right - lots dust, lots swearing and cursing but end result was pretty great I think - we will see what it sprays up like.

 

12. When you do your block sanding use a block that is long and retentively wide that you can 2 hands on and use a criss cross motion keep even steady strokes over the whole surface - do this twice with 40grit the whole roof covered evenly with filler, block back once and then recover the whole roof with filler and block back a second time with 40-git again and then go to the finer grits. Do not skimp on using the the 40grit as this really cuts and shapes the filler which is what you want to set up the correct base to work with to get a good result. Also use the black guide coat between changing to different grits to see the highs and lows in your work. No short cuts here just long physical hours here.

 

See pictures attached

 

Note a final spray filler will be need to marry up the surface completely and fill in all of the smaller imperfections

 

 

 

 

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#17 Linton

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Posted 05 October 2016 - 07:24 AM

looks great well done, its a good feeling to complete a major task like that, it has come up great, what are you going to do in regards to the inner hood lining ? it is normally glued on to the roof and you still have the bracket thingo's attached, thicker foam?

Linton



#18 AK

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Posted 05 October 2016 - 06:32 PM

Hi Linton

I had not thought about too much - I was going to give that job to a professional interior  guy.

 

I was going to glue a bracket in place with with some chassis body work glue make this pretty beefy as this would also be a central point to hold up the roof lining from, I have a 16 LED  square interior light  but it looks a little big so I may have to get a smaller unit and I starting think round or oval would be nicer match the car - that as much as I had thought about it, but i was also considering a roof counsel similar to modern cars integrated into the roof lining that has lights and sunglasser holder but that may be just a pipe dream and may look to out of place in the car - I have lots of ideas for the interior in general I want something upper class plush and expensive looking with highlights in carbon ect something Zonda like would be the ultimate but very expensive and time consuming - but time and money and motivation may have me just keep it stock as well. Did I say I had not though about it too much - God help me.

AK 


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#19 AK

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Posted 19 December 2016 - 03:23 PM

OK it been a while since my last post and  to say the least - I have been busy – productive that's another discussion where you dont want to get the women involved if you know what I mean.

 

Anyway what I have done since the last post :

 

  • Finished the body work (say good bye to 100s of hours of painstaking work)
  • ·         Got the bumpers back from being reconditioned
  • ·         Picked up the incredible engine Re Build from Les Collins Racing
  • ·         Picked up Re Built Gear Box from Les Collins Racing
  • ·         Got the dif back from Les Collins Racing
  • ·         Did the roof lining dark grey swede leather ( I did that my self)
  • ·         Had the rear hatch and a new front Window refitted with new rubbers
  • ·         Put in Dashboard
  • ·         Put all the Suspension back in
  • ·         Put the steering back in
  • ·         Put the tail lights in
  • ·         Bonnet back on
  • ·         Fender mount mirrors in place
  • ·         Some of the brakelines
  • ·         Put the engine in
  • ·         Put the Exhaust back on

Combined this activity withthe selling the house and preperations for moving to the Sunshine Coast in Queensland – What can I say I am certifiably crazy

 

Well it was very satisfying to finish the body work to a level that even the panel shop was ok with, in his professional opinion better than a lot of other panel shops would do. I have to say doing the body work was hard physically and it took about 5 times longer than expected and the 150 Square meter shed looked like a cocaine bunker by the time I finished white powder every where. No wonder it cost serious coin to get done properly

 

I used a product called All U Need as spray filler for the final push to finish the body work off and it was really good, it  got out the pinholes transition problems with different fill heights and to say it drys super hard with virtually no shrinkage would be absolutely correct.

 

See some pictures below of the final push to finish all the body work - the every part of the car filled and block sanded to hopefully a near perfect finish.

 

The front indicator corners and the stone tray where in poor shape thin and beaten up by the passage of time, these where massaged back into shape and Ii applied some fiber reinforced filler on the back, this gave the strength to hold shape better - I did the same with the grill under the windscreen.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Sublime Lime turned out awesome

Finished the body work this was a massive undertaking for a newbie got say it physical taxing and the time it took was probably about 5 times longer than I thought it would take but if there was a  

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#20 AK

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Posted 19 December 2016 - 03:44 PM

Back again

Check out the All U Need Can

Some more pics of the All U Need applied and then block sanded back to a 320 grit paper then Black Primer to seal it in a few places where the All U Need was thinned out from the blocking process of taking out the high and lows.

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