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How To Get The Radiator Frame Back On? Has Anyone Done This?

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my radiator frame and rails were so far gone from rust that the frame .. just fell out

now life is looking up, the rails are fixed, the frame repaired, but i just don't know how it goes on

from what i can tell, the opening in the back of the frame is narrower then the width of the rail

http://www.vord.net/cars/240z/front-chassis/bent-chassis-rail-large.jpg

so it doesn't fit

second question is: how is the frame attached to the rail ? 4 welds at the top, 4 at bottom and two verticals on the front to secure the tab?

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Hopefully this picture may help. You can see where the spot welds were completely drilled out. I have some more pics at home that show the other side, can post tonight if you need/want. Cheers Jeff

 

post-100512-0-05815100-1468887745_thumb.jpg

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awesome. so that matches my theory of the where to weld it up.

4 welds at the top, 4 at bottom and two verticals on the front to secure the tab

the trick question is HOW DID YOU GET IT ONTO RAILS

so need a photo from the back

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so i feel ok i am not the only bunny with a rusted out z

what a crap job from the factory. NONE of the joints around this panel were seam sealed with rust whereever there was  a joint

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240 & 260s have different width rail ends.

260s are 5mm thinner at the ends than the 240s, so basically a 10mm wider radiator can fit in between the rails of a 260z.

The diff is in the taper/narrowing of the end rails.

But if you are referring to the wider wedge on the end of the rails as shown in vord link pic, yes this is typical of all oem rails.

Also on rad support panel flanges are folded rearwards where the rad panel meets the tie bar, but forwards nearly everywhere else except near where the top is boxed.

I hope that makes sense.

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Oh, use a quick clamp or Sash clamp, use it to spread the rails, only takes about 40kgs if force if the crossmember is off or loose, straighten the tabs but not so they are straight forwards but about 20-30 degrees toe-in.

Slip lower over, release clamps slowly whilst using rubber mallet to push it on (at same time).

Once the tabs are touching the inside of the front of the lower section, strategicly hit inboard, to aid in refolding the straightened tabs, then a square hit to fold then flat/parallel ready for plug welding. Don't hit to far as the tab starts to run away from you, but can recover it or use tek screw to pull it up and trial fit.

Is a lil tricky to make it all work!

I hope this helps.

Nat0

Edited by nat0_240_chevZ

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geez, that's scary.

maybe its easier to cutout a small 4 cm opening and reweld? i'm still convinced that's how they must have done at the factory. unless they welded the rad frame to the rails first and THEN wleded the rails to the shell. ?

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I haven't got a pic from the back of the rad support, however I have attached some more pics from when I fitted my new rust free rad support. I fitted it just like Nat0 explained. I hope these pics help. at the rear there is just 2 small seam welds, one where the panel meets the top of the frame rail and one where the panel meets the side of the rail. In the first pic you can see the remnants of the factory weld on the side of the chassis rail.

 

Cheers Jeff

 

post-100512-0-88195400-1469100279_thumb.jpg

 

post-100512-0-38728500-1469100384_thumb.jpg

 

post-100512-0-41577500-1469100452_thumb.jpg

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what type/size is the clamp? something from bunings? how do you place it and what's the point of bending the tabs back? why can't you leave them at 90 degrees?

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Means the width and amount of stretching is less and it allows the opening/hole to actually engage into the lower rad suit or else you can't put the smaller opening over with the rail end.

A 600mm quick clamp is Min size, I think it's 620 or 640mm between the front rails from memory.

Maybe get the next size up.

You can use the quick clamps to push also.

Peel back the inner skirt from rail slightly, couple of spot welder only to give room.

Nat0

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