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Custom Long Range Tank


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#1 aussie240z

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Posted 24 June 2016 - 06:37 PM

As some of you know, I "play in the dirt" with my zed and, in line with that need for some of the charity rallies I compete in, I have been prepping for the next one in August. This is www.trek4kidz.com and will cover about 3500kms over the week, with about 85% on dirt, tracks etc. Some details of my entry here www.car240.com.au 

While past event day to day distances have been adequately covered with 2 x 10ltr jerry cans on the roof racks along with the  spare tyres, this next event has a first day run of nearly 460km with no fuel stops at all, so what I can carry on board is it.

Looking at possible options, I was contemplating fuel cells, adapting a long range fuel tank from something like a statesman or similar or seeing what could be done with a zed tank.

So, me being a little bit more on the DIY approach, i went down the path of an adapted zed tank. While doing this, I also wanted to alleviate the breather pipe issue that was causing air locks and the resultant inability to get a full tank of fuel.

The idea was to source a second fuel tank, make some mods, remove the wheel well and remount the tank. Benefits of using the zed tank was that the fuel filler neck remained as is, fuel sender remained as is and, with any luck, the tank mountings would remain pretty close to "as is".

Like most good plans, there were a few "oh dear" re think moments but ultimately, it all worked out.

Step 1 was source the tank and, thanks to another great forum member, i was able to get a (260) tank which formed the basis of the new plan.IMG_2195.JPG IMG_2196.JPG

Step 2, got the tank cleaned and modified by expanding the main part of the tank that normally sits under the wheel well. In doing this, I had the fellow who did the mods look at extra baffles and a few mods to inlet and breather pipes.  The new shape of the tank has been built over the original skin with extra holes in the old top of the original tank to also add some baffling. The breather pipe was remade to be a short sleeve and a (nearly right angle) joiner pipe to connect directly from within the boot through the same area where the rubber breather hose would normally go. The tank was checked with fuel for leaks, rotated and left on various sides to check if any issues. None found at all.  IMG_2197.JPG IMG_2197.JPG IMG_2207.JPG IMG_2208.JPG

Step 3 removed the wheel well, going around the spot welds with a spot weld drill bit and taking out the wheel well in one piece. it is in good nick so will keep this for later/possible re insertion.IMG_2242.JPG IMG_2243.JPG IMG_2244.JPG floor.JPG

Step 4 With the wheel well out, make a new plate to cover the opening and, using M6 captive nuts make ready for securing.IMG_2253.JPG IMG_2309.JPG

Step 5 With the wheel well gone, the support for one of the tank straps is also removed, so I needed to fabricate something that would address  that as well. So, some angle, a bit of work with drill, file, grinder to create a key hole mounting of the inboard strap mounting was created. A flat strap on the floor of the boot provided the support bar to mount this key hole strap to. (not the most elegant but sufficient for now, removable at a later stage while strong enough to withstand the extra load of the larger tank.IMG_2304.JPG

Step 6. Recognizing that the tank straps were potentially too short (the tank is a 260 tank and, compared to the 240 unit - it is deeper below the side joining sill) I had to decide to either make new straps altogether or come up with a way to mount the existing straps. The passenger side strap was also definitely too short now with the different mounting point due to the modifications needed sans wheel well. So, after a bit of head scratching (as well as head bumping on various suspension areas - with little hair in the way to cushion the noggin) I made an extension of 20mm square tube with metric nuts welded in each end to suit the existing hanger bolts and a new high tensile bolt up from the fuel strap.IMG_2305.JPG

Step 7. After wrestling with the tank under the car and positioning the new breather neck, I ended up making a flap opening in the boot floor close to where the old breather pipe came through, connecting my new right angle breather pipe connector with a short piece of fuel line and hose clamps and leading the new pipe to a direct connection to the fuel filler neck. No kinks, right angles etc. A rubber flap was made to isolate the breather neck pipe, seal off the floor and then secured with again the 6mm captive nuts.IMG_2260.JPG

Final Assembly. After gluing new rubber pad strips to the top of the tank, positioning all in place and securing the tank, it all fits, and works.IMG_2269.JPG IMG_2298.JPG

I had about 20lt of fuel in in plastic fuel cans to put back in and then went to the local garage to fill up. Drove up to the premium unleaded and started pumping. When i got to $100 i stopped and through there goes the weekends drinking money.

My estimate of the tank capacity, based on the old tank standard capacity and what would be added in the volume of the new tank area, was approximately 90 to 100 litres. Based on the fuel i used from the cans and the  from the bowser, I suspect it is closer to the 100 litre mark.     

A few observations:

Working single handed to get a tank in, positioned, located, tested, out again, then back and so on, is not the most friendly thing to do

Likewise, using mounting bolts through floors where bolt head needs securing while doing up nut underneath requires a "creative" approach to tightening them up. Another set of hands is ideal (my wife did assist with a few) but a large magnet and ring spanner strategically placed can also work wonders

A heat gun on the fuel filler neck joiner makes the fitting of the tank neck way easier than wrestling with a stubborn, hard, 40 year old connection.

Wearing some sort/any sort of hat, beanie, anything, makes the difference between a nice smooth, nearly bald, head and one that looks like a hack golfer has taken divots out every 3cms across the scalp.       

The zed has been in the garage and with the tank pretty full and sitting now for nearly a week and no visibility of leaks or issues.

I am looking at adding a further high quality fuel filter in the engine bay and likely replacing the fuel sender unit ( i had checked the guauge by earthing the circuit and showed that it worked fine however I should have checked the sender unit as well.) 

I will also likely add an extra "emergency strap" as a secondary load support, working on the "just in case" basis.

I will be doing some trial distance runs before we go in August but I think the distance on day one should now be a little easier to accomplish, even if running hard.

In regard to the event, we are supporting the Starlight Foundation as the primary charity and, with the way the event is run, 100% of all donations/sponsorship goes to them, which we found to a great incentive to get involved (The last couple of rallies we did with Camp Quality, lost a bit with paid staff etc, while Trek is all volunteers)

I will be adding a tracking page to www.car240.com.au and will use GPS tracking from the car to provide the route following during the progress of the rally.   

Cheers

Ian

 

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#2 dat2kman

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Posted 24 June 2016 - 07:29 PM

Stew Wilkins does a long range capacity tank for a Z, as used by many in long range endurance ralles.

I ran a 1966 Chevrolet Belair in many Variety bash evens, i had it fitted with an additional 100 litre tank, in the boot, behind back seat on the bit of floor above the diff.
It retained the stock 80 litre tank under floor at rear, but, i fitted a alloy sheet folded tank bashplate, with 1/2" thick closed cell foam between tank and bash plate, to stop stones getting in there and puncturing tank.

A two way switch on the dash controlled a simple two way solnoud valve, mounted inside boot, we'd fill both, use up all the under ank, car would go "cough cough" then switch to auxilliary tank in boot.
Reason for using under tank first, was, n case we punctured the bottom tank in the rough stuff.
Saw a few others put neat holes nto tanks in Gibb River Road!

In the Z, maybe consider keeping stock tank, fit a bash plate, and then, in spare wheel well a circular tank made to be flush with flor, so a piece f plate can be sealed/fitted to floorpan and have it all flsh.

Spare tyres mount,, a couple of bolted in bits of steel rhs with a bloody decent bolt poking up, to maybe enable two tyres one on top f ther, with top one on uside down so the bolt it not too long, to make it easy to get out.

The Peking Paris cars run tyres on a roof rack, gets a bit cumbersome and looks a bit ugly, i reckon.
Oh and use steel rims, if they get bent, you can bash the lips back out with a hammer.

Your pics are on the money!

I really should write a book!

Edited by dat2kman, 24 June 2016 - 07:31 PM.


#3 aussie240z

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Posted 24 June 2016 - 07:40 PM

thanks for the comments.

Have left under and removed the wheel well so to keep at least a bit of boot space (Ia m travelling with my wife so must have room for some changes of clothes over the week at least). Looked at spare wheel well option but the volume/cost option for a custom tank verses the $220 and nearly 40ltrs in the mods I did, worked well.

I have fitted the spares on the rack (works fine and,a s per the tank, means I can still have some clothes etc. in the car.) and makes throwing a spare on pretty quick/easy too.

zed.png

  Always options for sure

Cheers

 



#4 dat2kman

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Posted 24 June 2016 - 08:14 PM

On the Variety events,,,, we all wore matching pink overalls,,
Socks jocks and tee shirts just got chucked in the bin after a couple days,
We each had our own 2man tent, a blow up Li-Lo, and a sleeping bag, the lot, including clothes, a rain jacket, etc went into a duffle type bag.
Swags are way to cumbersome, when there is four in the car!




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