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#1 Justyy

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Posted 21 June 2016 - 12:54 PM

Hey All,

 

Obviously new here been looking around for a while for a decent 240/260z that i could rebuild from the ground up...

 

Was a bit of a journey looking at a few that had large amounts of rust and semi complete but ended up buying one that someone had already started tearing down and fixing a lot of the rust from an old fella out in Seven Hills.

 

The plan is to get it back to original as best i can with maybe a couple of upgrades a long the way, sadly as it sits now it will probably stay till early next year due to building a new house, but was lucky enough to be able to buy it now rather than when the wife and I move out.

 

I'll be doing my best to document the build as i go so to start things off a small list of what has already been done:

 

- New front rear shocks/springs

- New bushings all the way around

- Dash re-skinned, gauges refreshed and fixed

- Front and rear bumpers re-chromed, Grill re-chromed

- Auto Trans rebuilt

- Starter motor, Alternator, Compressor, Condenser, Heater Core/Box, Radiator and oil cooler all rebuilt

That's about all i can think of right now.

 

The down side is he started to paint the car in acrylic red...  :-\

The positives is it has the original engine and gearbox, the original colour was red but I don't think i can bring myself to paint it red again... still undecided on a colour though so we shall see, its a while off yet.

 

So my first step will be to take everything out of the car and tear out the sound deadening on the floor, than off to get blasted again to take off all the acrylic than 2 pack primed so it can sit till i move out into my new place with a bigger garage  ^-^

 

Just a couple of photos of how it sits now, I've tried to shrink them as much as possible so hope they turn out alright.

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#2 Sirpent

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Posted 21 June 2016 - 03:56 PM

Guido

 

Congratulations.

 

On the acrylic paint issue..........

 

Painting acrylic over 2K is not always the best idea as the acylic thinners tends to bite into the 2K surface and can cause lifting

 

HOWEVER

 

The same is not applicable to 2K over acrylic !

 

It would be safe to say that IF the acrylic has been laid down well, then it will act as an adequate base for 2K products over the top rather than stripping everything back

 

The best test is to sand an area so as to create a feather edge of the substrates, this will tell you 2 things

 

#1 How many layers of material lay beneath

#2 What the adhesion is like as any faults in the material will show up as peel away rather than feathered

 

If the 2 points I mentioned pass, you can knock back the top layer and apply 2K over the top.

 

Cheers

 

John


Edited by Sirpent, 21 June 2016 - 03:58 PM.

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#3 Justyy

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Posted 21 June 2016 - 04:21 PM

Hey John, 

 

Guido is what the wifes calling the car haha... Names Justin

 

Sadly the acrylic is well less than worthy to paint over... it actually chips off and has chipped off in a rather large amount of places and considering some places have started to rust AFTER he repaired them well it goes to show that maybe best to blast it (even though id rather not) and start again eliminating any of the new surface rust areas...

 

I see what you're saying but yeah sadly i can flick the paint surface and it will chip off...

 

I did speak to a friend that used to be a panel beater/painter and he said best course of action would be to paint strip or blast it and said if it was him he'd blast it, so i'll likely take out all the floor sound deadening then get it blasted so that i know its 100% sealed till its ready to get painted.

 

Thanks for the thoughts though John

 

Justin


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#4 mspecr

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Posted 21 June 2016 - 08:22 PM

A Fair bit of work has been put into her by the sounds of it, just needs to have them finishing touch's and you will be up and running in no time.

Good luck with the build ! :D



#5 Justyy

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Posted 22 June 2016 - 10:15 AM

Thanks mate, Still a lot more work I'm sure.

 

Picked up a few more parts yesterday from the seller he found lying around, also ordered an original 260z service manual i found on ebay. The car did come with a couple of books but not an original manual.

 

Been trying to decide a colour to paint the car although its a long way off, tossing up between Pearl white and Pacific Blue (being an original 260 colour)

so far have 2 people saying white and 2 saying Blue, whats everyone else's thoughts?

 

Took a better look at the interior and doesn't look like its in the best shape, will likely get it re-done so if the cars white it will get changed to black, but still keeping to original material hopefully.

 

Interested to know peoples thoughts on colours  :)



#6 Brabham

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Posted 22 June 2016 - 02:38 PM

Given its matching numbers, I'd probably stick with the red, find a section under the dash or something like that to see what it was originally. Failing that I'd go the original datsun white, white being the racing colours of Japan :)

#7 Justyy

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Posted 22 June 2016 - 03:01 PM

Hey Brabham,

 

If i liked the red i'd paint it red again, however i really dislike it... so reds out and at that point its not original so thus came about liking pearl white, had a pearl white S15 a few years back and loved the colour... but i do feel the pacific blue would be better given its an original colour...

 

The original white seems a bit flat, never been a fan of a fridge white colour, maybe photos on google don't do them justice. I'll have to check one out in person. good thought though.

 

Justin



#8 Justyy

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Posted 01 July 2016 - 11:33 AM

Anyone have any suggestions as to were i should take the car to get blasted? Got one quote back so far but thinking i should get a couple before i make the decision. Needs to be in NSW, Im located Penrith but id be willing to go probably towards Seven Hills, Wetherill Park area much further its a bit of a pain.

 

Also just considering paint stripping it but i donno yet, interested to hear others thoughts on both ideas given this is my first resto project. Keep in mind its only acrylic pain on the car thus far and very poorly applied (e.g. when you move it red stuff comes off)



#9 PeterAllen

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Posted 01 July 2016 - 12:30 PM

Justin. Sometime the 'search' function can be helpful. This topic was raised only recently.

 

http://www.viczcar.c...lasting-sydney/



#10 Justyy

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Posted 01 July 2016 - 12:38 PM

Ahh good point Peter, i do recall reading that page when it was first posted, will go back through it now cheers bud



#11 Justyy

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Posted 26 September 2016 - 09:08 AM

Just after a bit of guidance from the more experienced restorers, i have been working on the car lately going through boxes getting things sorted out and was going to start working on the car, grinding down welds to get the body panels smooth again. Now i assumed thats what i should do but after speaking with a friend whom is by no means a body panel person believes that i shouldnt touch the welds at all and that by grinding them down im only heating the car up for no reason.

 

He then assured me that all body panel shops will just grab a hammer and hit the high spots down than fill it with bog to get it smooth...

 

Just want to know peoples thoughts? Should i just be leaving the welds alone and not grinding them smooth? im by no means a professional when it comes to this stuff but by just leaving it and handing it to someone else to fix doesnt teach me much either... sort of defeats the purpose of buying the car.

 

On the other side of things i made some great head way on polishing up all the chrome bumpers and front grill, also now have a list of parts that i need and those that are broken.



#12 gav240z

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Posted 26 September 2016 - 02:36 PM

A good panel beater / welder would weld the panels in such a way that there would be very little distortion or excess weld to grind off.

It all depends on the type of welder used. Mig usually leaves a build up of material that will need to be ground down. On the other hand oxy doesn't.

You will want to grind the weld down as smooth as possible, but be careful you don't grind the metal too thin also. You really don't want to make it thinner than the surround material.

Whacking and bogging is not exactly a great technique in my opinion. The good old boys may file finish to get a uniform finish, but a lick of filler is acceptable also.

You won't cause distortion grinding down the welds unless you're super heavy handed. It's the heat from welding that distorts panels usually.

#13 Justyy

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Posted 26 September 2016 - 03:24 PM

A good panel beater / welder would weld the panels in such a way that there would be very little distortion or excess weld to grind off.

It all depends on the type of welder used. Mig usually leaves a build up of material that will need to be ground down. On the other hand oxy doesn't.

You will want to grind the weld down as smooth as possible, but be careful you don't grind the metal too thin also. You really don't want to make it thinner than the surround material.

Whacking and bogging is not exactly a great technique in my opinion. The good old boys may file finish to get a uniform finish, but a lick of filler is acceptable also.

You won't cause distortion grinding down the welds unless you're super heavy handed. It's the heat from welding that distorts panels usually.

 

 

All the welds were done by the previous owner, at a guess id assumed he used a Gas Mig since i've been researching and trying to learn how to do it myself also.

 

I was aiming to just get them smoother and remove any excess but try avoid hitting the surrounding metal which i believed i did alright thus far.

 

I had a similar opinion towards the whack and bog method too especially when i have a patch or 2 i believe in and around the rear quarter windows, i just couldnt understand how you could build it up when a window has to fit back in there...

 

Thanks for the clarifications Gav, gives me a lot more confidence in continuing to grind down welds.



#14 CBR Jeff

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Posted 26 September 2016 - 06:54 PM

Justin
My 2 cents worth. Depending on location of repair (based on repairs I have undertaken) the best option (in my opinion) is once it's welded in is to grind it back with a grinding wheel on an angle grinder. I prefer to use the grinder at 90 deg to the job using just a very small part of the wheel on a small area taking my time. Just grinding off the weld. Don't grind the metal either side of the weld and don't use linishing (flap) wheels or you will just end up in a very big mess, as Gav has said you will end up with thin metal. Also dont try to be perfect or you will be at it forever and it's amazing what a bit of POR-15 and or filler primer will make look very flat. I have encountered a few spots on my car where the bash and bog technique has been used by "professionals" and they are a bugger to fix, in two cases I decided just to cut the lot out and start again from scratch. So don't go the bash and bog way it's rough. As for panel warp from heat, it takes quite an amount to actually cause this to happen. I have had a play with some flat sheet practicing before I carried out my repairs and it took an great deal of effort to get it to distort.
Jeff

Edited by CBR Jeff, 26 September 2016 - 06:56 PM.


#15 Brabham

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Posted 26 September 2016 - 07:24 PM

Another good tool for grinding down welds is a right angle die grinder with a small 36 grit roloc disc. You will need a good compressor to run that though, however it will get the welds almost perfect.
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#16 gav240z

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Posted 26 September 2016 - 09:05 PM

I ground down the welds on my rear hatch (mig welder). We used a mig because we couldn't get access to the rear of the panel so oxy wouldn't work well in this scenario. The weld sunk in a little. But I grounded down the weld with a linisher (finger sander).

 

http://www.viczcar.c...guide/?p=179500

 

Just be really careful and use the trigger to go slowly as it will file down the metal quickly. You can also use hand files as a way to remove material slowly if required.

 

In this case I used lead fill over the top (just personal preference over plastic filler / bog).


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#17 CBR Jeff

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Posted 26 September 2016 - 09:28 PM

There is a common theme here with the use of three different tool options. Each option if a choice based on avalability or preference but the process remains the same. Take your time and only grind down the weld!!
Like many parts of a build there is not one answer that fits all and some times you need to decide what best works for you.

Jeff

#18 Justyy

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Posted 27 September 2016 - 09:00 AM

I ground down the welds on my rear hatch (mig welder). We used a mig because we couldn't get access to the rear of the panel so oxy wouldn't work well in this scenario. The weld sunk in a little. But I grounded down the weld with a linisher (finger sander).

 

http://www.viczcar.c...guide/?p=179500

 

Just be really careful and use the trigger to go slowly as it will file down the metal quickly. You can also use hand files as a way to remove material slowly if required.

 

In this case I used lead fill over the top (just personal preference over plastic filler / bog).

I saw that thread yesterday Gav, Very impressive with the lead wiping technique but probably not something i could take on yet :P to much a newbie to be trying it, i cant imagine its anything like soldering wires etc.

 

Thanks guys, very helpful, i was using a flappy disk but i was VERY careful with how close i got to metal and worked with a very light hand making sure to only hit welds.

 

I did unfortunately find that a piece of metal was basically ground down to a slither and welded over the top of a panel and got thicker towards a hole, it basically fell apart when i touched the welds... not sure what the aim was here but looks like ill be learning to fix it myself... 

 

I really don't want to go down the bash and bog route i get its not going to be a concourse car but it just sounds nasty and considering i want to keep the car for some time its not really the method i had in mind...

 

Ill try a few different thnigs based on suggestions and see what works best

 

thanks fellas! i will be telling the friend to shove it  ^-^






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