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Help! - Seized L26?

Rebuild Engine L26 Triple carb Twin su 260z 1976 Forged Internals Piston

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#1 Ahoysandy

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Posted 16 May 2016 - 11:13 PM

Hellpp!! My engine seized on me today whilst running. Found out it chewed through all my oil and started a light knock knock, topped her back up and she was good till it locked up halfway down the motorway this afternoon... What do I do? I've tried manually turning it over as well as rolling and dumping the clutch and can confirm, seized. Who do I take it to? Does anyone know of a Datsun engine specialist in Sydney?
L26 1976 260z 2seater manual.

#2 andyk_79

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Posted 17 May 2016 - 07:12 AM

MIA at Dee Why or Stewart Wilkins racing are the 2 best L engine builders in Sydney

#3 Brabham

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Posted 17 May 2016 - 08:15 AM

+1 for those two



#4 gav240z

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Posted 17 May 2016 - 04:10 PM

Right now there is nothing you can do, if it's seized it needs a rebuild. There is no 'cheap fix'.
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#5 Ahoysandy

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Posted 17 May 2016 - 04:52 PM

Yeah these are the two shops that have been suggested to me across social media. My current solution is to source an L series to swap in to it for the mean time (as it does have a full year of rego) just to keep it going for weekends. And have the seized engine rebuilt and upgraded on the side to put back in later on. Currently trying to source an engine from someone on the forums hopefully.
Thanks for your responses guys, much appreciated <3

#6 d3c0y

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Posted 19 May 2016 - 08:46 AM

Don't forget to put oil in this one...


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#7 Ahoysandy

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Posted 19 May 2016 - 09:44 PM

Don't forget to put oil in this one...

 

 

YES!! haha it will surely be checked more than often



#8 PB260Z

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Posted 20 May 2016 - 09:07 PM

MIA at Dee Why or Stewart Wilkins racing are the 2 best L engine builders in Sydney

Have never heard a bad word about either James & Stew.

Are you looking a standard rebuild or something more ?

 

Cheers

 

PB



#9 Ahoysandy

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Posted 22 May 2016 - 02:10 AM

Have never heard a bad word about either James & Stew.

Are you looking a standard rebuild or something more ?

 

Cheers

 

PB

 

at the moment, I have sourced an L24 to drop in to it for the rest of the year (as i only just put full registration on one week ago). whilst this is getting me along i will be in contact with SW motorsport to build a proper street engine for the Z. Nothing over the top, but some nice triples and a few internal goodies would be awesome.



#10 Ahoysandy

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Posted 25 May 2016 - 02:53 PM

UPDATE:
upon draining oil and pulling the engine, i've found small metal particles almost like shavings in the drained oil. thoughts?



#11 dattocam

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Posted 25 May 2016 - 03:02 PM

Bearing pick up.



#12 1600dave

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Posted 25 May 2016 - 03:32 PM

Yeah, that's what is left of your bearings :-\

 

Pull the sump, remove the conrod and main bearing caps and check out the rest of the carnage to see if the crank is salvageable.



#13 Ahoysandy

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Posted 29 May 2016 - 08:55 PM

the struggle continues!
I think i've narrowed it down to rings or bearings that went in the engine.

Anyway.

I dropped in another L24 to my Z in an attempt to get it back moving on the road but i can't get it to start now. 
i'm using all of my existing accessories from the L26 including carbs & headers. i've run over nearly every possibility and can't understand why its not?!
Here's the run down;
parts that were previously running on my L26 and have been transferred to the L24:
-fuel pump
-coil
-distributor
-thermostat
-oil pressure sender
-alternator
-flywheel/clutch assembly
-starter
-extractors
-manifold
-twin SU carbs + linkage
-fuel rail

Fuel is flowing to the carbs when cranked and bowls are full, no water visible in these upon inspection.
Spark is present at both the points in the distributor and each spark plug when grounded on the head.
Compression of each cylinder is good and valves/ports are sealing correctly.
Have removed the Dizzy and spindle is correct position when cylinder 1 is on TDC.
Checked the firing order 1,000 times - 1 5 3 6 2 4.
Have charged the Battery to 100%.
Removed the kill switch to prevent issues.
Oil level on the dipstick is still high, and still clear with no sign of coolant or water.

Situation-
The engine cranks and turns but does not fire on its own accord. When I begin to squirt fuel in to the carbs, it then wants to fire and will fire for a few turns but as soon as i let go of the ignition, it wont run on its own. If i check the sparks after trying to start it, they appear dry. Which makes me think is a fuel issue, but i'm not familiar as to where as there's fuel in the bowls and the carb set up was working completely fine on my L26. when i add fuel directly to the cylinder through the spark plugs, nothing at all in the way of detonation. 

 

Possible issues i thought of were a vacuum leak, cause it to not pull the fuel through in to the cylinder. This could be due to the use of an older manifold gasket.
option two is the lack of back pressure from the exhaust that is not creating circulating pressure. This due to the open headers i have at the moment.

Any other advice would be much appreciated!!
thanks :)



#14 Lurch ™

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Posted 29 May 2016 - 09:52 PM

Check your timing is not 180deg out.


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#15 Retro Z

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Posted 29 May 2016 - 09:54 PM

Have you set the timing?

#16 Ahoysandy

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Posted 29 May 2016 - 10:02 PM

Check your timing is not 180deg out.

 

I have tried positioning the leads 180 degrees around the dizzy. nothing, if anything it feels as though there's less chance of it firing.

Have you set the timing?

timing on the dizzy? no, but the adjustment allowance on the dizzy shouldn't be enough to prevent it from firing. it theoretically should run, just like an absolute dog without timing.



#17 oldmates260z

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Posted 29 May 2016 - 10:11 PM

Sounds like a fuel problem if squirting fuel gets it to fire....

 

Are you sure the L24 was running Ok before removed?



#18 PB260Z

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Posted 30 May 2016 - 12:35 PM

Just a crazy thought, and an easy mistake.

Have you got the leads the right way around, ie Anti Clockwise ?

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#19 Cozza

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Posted 30 May 2016 - 04:37 PM

Are you speaking from experience PB ;)

#20 Retro Z

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Posted 30 May 2016 - 05:50 PM

Get a timing light on it. Dizzy might be installed a tooth out. Mine was way out and i had to crank and crank, but once correctly set to around 15 degrees advance fires right up even when cold. Worth a shot and has to be done eventually anyway.





Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: Rebuild, Engine, L26, Triple carb, Twin su, 260z, 1976, Forged, Internals, Piston

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